Pre 82 front calipers

[coops]

Looking for some sort of upgrade on my pre 82 gs750 race bike. currently has gpz 1100 b1 front end with 17" Suzuki bandit wheels.
Twin disc. but the gpz calipers are single pot. Useless.
Would be better with twin opposing pots or lockheeds or brembos or something.
Can use a lathe and mill so attaching shouldn't be a problem provided there is room between the wheel and discs. (for inner pot)
Havnt had a lot of time to research this but basically all jap bikes of this era had crap, absolutetly crap brakes...other options expensive?
I haven't actually found any options. Must be manufactured pre 82 or look the same.
Any help would be appreciated.
Steve.

[Kickaha]

Looking for some sort of upgrade on my pre 82 gs750 race bike. currently has gpz 1100 b1 front end with 17" Suzuki bandit wheels.
Twin disc. but the gpz calipers are single pot. Useless.
Would be better with twin opposing pots or lockheeds or brembos or something.
Can use a lathe and mill so attaching shouldn't be a problem provided there is room between the wheel and discs. (for inner pot)
Havnt had a lot of time to research this but basically all jap bikes of this era had crap, absolutetly crap brakes...other options expensive?
I haven't actually found any options. Must be manufactured pre 82 or look the same.
Any help would be appreciated.
Steve.

You can buy new Brembo new for $272US + freight https://store.bevelheaven.com/Brake-Related-Parts/Brake-Caliper-Brembo-F08-Caliper-Pair/, Galger green pads off the same site work really well and I'd go for a 14mm master cylinder with them although some people like the 15mm for a firmer lever

Second hand most of the Brembo I've seen have $100NZ a caliper and you'd want to rebuild them, I bought some new Lockheed/AP but they were about $270NZ each

[sidecar bob]

My pre '82 gsx1100 had brembos on xs1100 discs & at the rate it was being ridden (winning the pre 82 pre 89 all in at cemetery circiut for example) the brakes were fading & seriously over worked & not up to the job at all.
We replaced the discs with 310mm floaters , which are now legal in pre 82 & fitted a brand new pair of Lockheed cp2696 calipers with a 16mm Brembo master cylnder & sintered pads.
The brakes are now the best part of the bike & well worth the investment.
If you want to only go there once, that is the recipie.
Contact these chums for calipers. http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/contact-us.html

[Grumph]

All of the above is correct and good info. As I made the disc carriers, I do have some memory of the space available...not a lot....

A possible - and legal - alternative caliper is the single sided twin pot fitted to some Hondas just in period. Appeared on the CB1100R and on the first of the V4 750's at the same time. They're still in wreckers, not that common but still there, VF750S shaft drivers are probably the most common.
For anyone with a CB750/900 they're a bolt on upgrade.
Pad choice will have a big effect also. On period semi stainless discs I recommend organic pads. Quicker warmup, lower running temps, less fade problems.

[malcy25]

My pre '82 gsx1100 had brembos on xs1100 discs & at the rate it was being ridden (winning the pre 82 pre 89 all in at cemetery circiut for example) the brakes were fading & seriously over worked & not up to the job at all.
We replaced the discs with 310mm floaters , which are now legal in pre 82 & fitted a brand new pair of Lockheed cp2696 calipers with a 16mm Brembo master cylnder & sintered pads.
The brakes are now the best part of the bike & well worth the investment.
If you want to only go there once, that is the recipie.
Contact these chums for calipers. http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/contact-us.html

yehar! I'm doing that calipers with EBC HH on EBC discs and using 15mm as I wanted a bit more mechanical leverage. Common was 5/8" which is 15.88mm. Mine bled up well with 15mm with a nice lever.

Also, drop me a PM with your contact details so I can get you on the Phillip island mailing list as I'm starting to dial that whole project up.

[sidecar bob]

yehar! I'm doing that calipers with EBC HH on EBC discs and using 15mm as I wanted a bit more mechanical leverage. Common was 5/8" which is 15.88mm. Mine bled up well with 15mm with a nice lever.

Also, drop me a PM with your contact details so I can get you on the Phillip island mailing list as I'm starting to dial that whole project up.

Umm yeah. . . my rider is very broken at the moment (not my bike) & has a long road ahead, a victory for him at the moment would be feeding himself. Might just play things by ear for a while

[coops]

All of the above is correct and good info. As I made the disc carriers, I do have some memory of the space available...not a lot....

A possible - and legal - alternative caliper is the single sided twin pot fitted to some Hondas just in period. Appeared on the CB1100R and on the first of the V4 750's at the same time. They're still in wreckers, not that common but still there, VF750S shaft drivers are probably the most common.
For anyone with a CB750/900 they're a bolt on upgrade.
Pad choice will have a big effect also. On period semi stainless discs I recommend organic pads. Quicker warmup, lower running temps, less fade problems.

Thanks for all the replys everyone. and thanks Grumph for the work you did before I got hold of the bike.
I have done a heap of work on it and only ridden it once since I got it. (round the back blocks) Very happy with it. just bad brakes and needs a quick action throttle.
Although I have since stripped brakes and pads and everything had oil all round the place which I think was half the problem. But will still look at upgrading with something. Might do the lockheeds.
See you at the track Grumph, come say hello.
Grumph was that you that introduced yourself too me a few weeks ago at Ruapuna? Me on my Kenny Roberts replica painted FZR1000.(I was preoccupied)
Had a big off after we talked that day. Too much gas out of the pot hole, lost rear, and slid down the middle of the track for 120m. First lap with 15 moderns right up my date. lucky I didn't get run over. All good
Burnt my ass but otherwise all good.

[sidecar bob]

Here's a pic of my setup. Swarfie off here cnc'd the brackets.

[Grumph]

Yeah, the elderly bearded guy who said hello was me...

Just bear in mind that you can spend a fortune on pre 82 legal brakes and it still won't stop like the FZR....Just one of the fun things about racing old bikes.
It's a case of balancing $$ vs the amount of fun....

[Yow Ling]

My pre '82 gsx1100 had brembos on xs1100 discs & at the rate it was being ridden (winning the pre 82 pre 89 all in at cemetery circiut for example) the brakes were fading & seriously over worked & not up to the job at all.
We replaced the discs with 310mm floaters , which are now legal in pre 82 & fitted a brand new pair of Lockheed cp2696 calipers with a 16mm Brembo master cylnder & sintered pads.
The brakes are now the best part of the bike & well worth the investment.
If you want to only go there once, that is the recipie.
Contact these chums for calipers. http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/contact-us.html

The current rules as posted on MNZ website only allow 300mm disk rotors, so unless that has changed your set up isn't quite legal
25.3.1 Suspension & Brakes
Air assisted front forks, mono shock rear suspension, and rear disk brakes, unless fitted as original equipment are prohibited. Front disks must be period, and are limited to 300mm maximum diameter with a maximum of 2-pistons per calliper unless fitted as original equipment to the bike in question.

[sidecar bob]

The current rules as posted on MNZ website only allow 300mm disk rotors, so unless that has changed your set up isn't quite legal
25.3.1 Suspension & Brakes
Air assisted front forks, mono shock rear suspension, and rear disk brakes, unless fitted as original equipment are prohibited. Front disks must be period, and are limited to 300mm maximum diameter with a maximum of 2-pistons per calliper unless fitted as original equipment to the bike in question.

Best we whip 5mm off them then. I bet its still far more legal & cheaper than anything that finishes within five places of it though.
I love the state of the art electronics & exotic materials on one bike that finishes behind us though!!

[malcy25]

The current rules as posted on MNZ website only allow 300mm disk rotors, so unless that has changed your set up isn't quite legal
25.3.1 Suspension & Brakes
Air assisted front forks, mono shock rear suspension, and rear disk brakes, unless fitted as original equipment are prohibited. Front disks must be period, and are limited to 300mm maximum diameter with a maximum of 2-pistons per calliper unless fitted as original equipment to the bike in question.

25.3.1 are pre 72 rules

25.4.6 are the pre 82 rules which say >320mm

[malcy25]

Yeah, the elderly bearded guy who said hello was me...

Just bear in mind that you can spend a fortune on pre 82 legal brakes and it still won't stop like the FZR....Just one of the fun things about racing old bikes.
It's a case of balancing $$ vs the amount of fun....

Oh so true...

[Yow Ling]

25.3.1 are pre 72 rules

25.4.6 are the pre 82 rules which say >320mm

OK thanks, must have stopped reading when I found the part that matched my faulty recolection

[husaberg]

Early Yamahas were opposed piston callipers they changed them later, the TZs for the most part used the same calliper. Including the first models TZ750
http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/img250/08-6008.jpg

These are not to be confused with the Later slider calliper set up as seen on the RD400s etc. (Yamaha changed to the inferior design sliding caliper to avoid paying the royalties to Girling I think)

The Early yam design ones can still be brought her rather cheaply.
The bolt pattern on the Yamaha disks for these are the same up until the FZR1000 likely even later.
I also note that sme Hondas share the same rotor disk and offset pattern early Cb's at least.
Might be more applicable to the other classes though.
They are a steal at each $100US new
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-67.html#products

[malcy25]

Early Yamahas were opposed piston callipers they changed them later, the TZs for the most part used the same calliper. Including the first models TZ750
http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/img250/08-6008.jpg

These are not to be confused with the Later slider calliper set up as seen on the RD400s etc. (Yamaha changed to the inferior design sliding caliper to avoid paying the royalties to Girling I think)

The Early yam design ones can still be brought her rather cheaply.
The bolt pattern on the Yamaha disks for these are the same up until the FZR1000 likely even later.
I also note that sme Hondas share the same rotor disk and offset pattern early Cb's at least.
Might be more applicable to the other classes though.
They are a steal at each $100US new
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-67.html#products

Weighed one lately - christ they are heavy!! Interesting you can buy them new still.

[husaberg]

Weighed one lately - christ they are heavy!! Interesting you can buy them new still.

Yes they were not light granted but they used to still put them on the later alloy calliper equipped models as well as they flexed less.
Have a look at the period pics they were still used on some of the later works bikes too.
I would say they are maybe off the Indian rd's?.

[Grumph]

Weighed one lately - christ they are heavy!! Interesting you can buy them new still.

There's a huge restoration market for them. One weighs about as much as 2 Brembo '08's.
Can't think of anything I'd use them on, Brembo '05's are pretty much the same size and way better.

[husaberg]

There's a huge restoration market for them. One weighs about as much as 2 Brembo '08's.
Can't think of anything I'd use them on, Brembo '05's are pretty much the same size and way better.

Give us the actual weights, granted I know they are heavy, but twice the weight Greg?

[Grumph]

Give us the actual weights, granted I know they are heavy, but twice the weight Greg?

Hey, I'm old and weak...don't have one here at present but yes, they are heavy and Brembos are light....and the 05's which are pretty similar dimensionally are very light, particularly with plastic pistons fitted.
The genuine factory Yams i believe had magnesium versions fitted rather than the normal TZ calipers.

[husaberg]

Hey, I'm old and weak...don't have one here at present but yes, they are heavy and Brembos are light....and the 05's which are pretty similar dimensionally are very light, particularly with plastic pistons fitted.
The genuine factory Yams i believe had magnesium versions fitted rather than the normal TZ calipers.
Some were as recognised by the webbing and finning but they used to put the heavies back on as they worked better.
Pretty sure even a lot of the GP bikes right up until the early to mid 80's still used heavy iron. Up until MMC came in in the early 90s it was a trade off.
I think there is a Yam calliper at the olds I will steal and weigh it.

[malcy25]

Yes they were not light granted but they used to still put them on the later alloy calliper equipped models as well as they flexed less.
Have a look at the period pics they were still used on some of the later works bikes too.
I would say they are maybe off the Indian rd's?.

Yeah the TZ350F/G and TZ750D-E/F alloy ribbed calipers were shockers. Can feel the flex in your hand if you grab the caliper and give the lever a squeeze!

As you say, the give away on performance was pictures of Roberts' 500 with the cast iron calipers through to about 1980....long after you think they out of date.

Problem with them these days is getting really good pads. SBS used to do RQ3 dual carbon pads which were awesome, but stopped a few years ago. Now days they are more the base line product only you can buy.

I swapped mine for twin brembo 05's on the 350. After I had a loss of lever incident at HD....

I'd heard a rumour of alloy versions of the cast iron black caliper, but no one of the etxtensive yam network I have has ever confirmed and the guy who said it, was known for spouting stuff that stretched the truth. A visit I'm making in the UK to a guy who is well versed in works Yamaha stuff and knows the subtle differences (and owns a lot of it too, like factory produced alternative gear ratios and shafts out of YZR750's!) will probably know if they existsed. I should ask him.

After about 1980, the 500's both works and production (plus the 250's from about 83/84 for a year or so) went to a more oblong alloy 2 piston caliper.
http://motosvit.com/Yamaha%20TZ250/1/tz250L-1984.jpg

....before going to the original Brembo 4 piston in 83.

[coops]

I cleaned the pads and the brakes are a lot better, but theyre still crap.
Done some more thinkin and will probably go with brembo F08 cos there reasonably cheap. Motokiwi has new for $520 a pair and second hand ones are half that. Also theres a pair of them in my garage on my lemans 1000 which seem to work very well on such a heavy bike and ive measured them up and can make them fit.
Which brings me to my next question. Are discs open or do they have to be a copy of pre 82 discs. Do they need to be floating? why do they float discs?
because I will need to make new disc carriers which would be easy unless they need to be floating, that would make it more difficult.
Probably only have room for 300mm discs. currently got 270mm non floating. Suzukibandit wheels. I doubt any of the shelf discs/carriers will have the correct offset.
Thanks.

[Kickaha]

Done some more thinkin and will probably go with brembo F08 cos there reasonably cheap. Motokiwi has new for $520

Nothing really wrong with them so long as you fit good pad compounds and a decent master cylinder

[husaberg]

I cleaned the pads and the brakes are a lot better, but theyre still crap.
Done some more thinkin and will probably go with brembo F08 cos there reasonably cheap. Motokiwi has new for $520 a pair and second hand ones are half that. Also theres a pair of them in my garage on my lemans 1000 which seem to work very well on such a heavy bike and ive measured them up and can make them fit.
Which brings me to my next question. Are discs open or do they have to be a copy of pre 82 discs. Do they need to be floating? why do they float discs?
because I will need to make new disc carriers which would be easy unless they need to be floating, that would make it more difficult.
Probably only have room for 300mm discs. currently got 270mm non floating. Suzukibandit wheels. I doubt any of the shelf discs/carriers will have the correct offset.
Thanks.

Read this re the questions about floating etc. click on them a few times to supersize them.
313418313419313420
Funny it has all the stuff said in it I must have retained some stuff over the years.

The rules for Pre 82 are these.

these are old rules (removed)they were on the post classic website? fixed they were not updated on the post classic site

Edit these are the current rules.
25.4.6 Brakes Front and rear brakes must be manufactured in the period or be faithful replicas of the style and materials of those manufactured in the period. Maximum disk diameter is 320mm, the maximum number of pistons per caliper is two, unless fitted as original equipment to the specific model of bike concerned. (Note: onus of proof is on rider or entrant of the machine).

Floating disks are permitted; however the disk carrier or “centre” must be of a style faithful to those manufactured in the period. (e.g. RG 500 “Star” pattern) Rear disk is open, but not exceed 300mm diameter.
Master cylinders (front and rear) are open.
Wave disks, their carriers and “direct pull” or “radial” master cylinders are specifically banned.
Re looking for oversized disks or doing a conversion look here for the measurements.
http://metalgear.com.au/search_by_disc_measurements.php
http://products.moto-master.com/advanced-search

[Grumph]

I cleaned the pads and the brakes are a lot better, but theyre still crap.
Done some more thinkin and will probably go with brembo F08 cos there reasonably cheap. Motokiwi has new for $520 a pair and second hand ones are half that. Also theres a pair of them in my garage on my lemans 1000 which seem to work very well on such a heavy bike and ive measured them up and can make them fit.
Which brings me to my next question. Are discs open or do they have to be a copy of pre 82 discs. Do they need to be floating? why do they float discs?
because I will need to make new disc carriers which would be easy unless they need to be floating, that would make it more difficult.
Probably only have room for 300mm discs. currently got 270mm non floating. Suzukibandit wheels. I doubt any of the shelf discs/carriers will have the correct offset.
Thanks.

Yes, you can now go to floaters as you'll have seen. Whether you need to is debatable....Kev's GS1000 is still on 296mm solids and it's not getting outbraked.
Even if you go to town on the 750 8V donk, you're not going to go as fast as that 1000...The 08's inside a 17inch rim are effectively limited to 300mm discs due to their being a fairly high profile caliper. The Lockheeds are quite a lot lower profile so Bob's been able to go to bigger discs.
Again, fun Vs $$$ equation - and that bike has taken forever to get built so, I'd suggest just run it and see what problems you strike.

[malcy25]

I cleaned the pads and the brakes are a lot better, but theyre still crap.
Done some more thinkin and will probably go with brembo F08 cos there reasonably cheap. Motokiwi has new for $520 a pair and second hand ones are half that. Also theres a pair of them in my garage on my lemans 1000 which seem to work very well on such a heavy bike and ive measured them up and can make them fit.
Which brings me to my next question. Are discs open or do they have to be a copy of pre 82 discs. Do they need to be floating? why do they float discs?
because I will need to make new disc carriers which would be easy unless they need to be floating, that would make it more difficult.
Probably only have room for 300mm discs. currently got 270mm non floating. Suzukibandit wheels. I doubt any of the shelf discs/carriers will have the correct offset.
Thanks.
If in doubt, first of all read chapter 25 on what you can do. Discs are not "open" - there are still rules surrounding what you can do - essentially looking for period looking discs not wave discs or latice style carriers.
Many guys here for years used XS1100 discs redrilled for Suzuki wheels as they were 298mm or something on their big Suzukis.

[sidecar bob]

If in doubt, first of all read chapter 25 on what you can do. Discs are not "open" - there are still rules surrounding what you can do - essentially looking for period looking discs not wave discs or latice style carriers.
Many guys here for years used XS1100 discs redrilled for Suzuki wheels as they were 298mm or something on their big Suzukis.

Whats a lattice carrier? Is that what I have?
The only reason I have that system is because the wheel & discs complete with bearings & axle cost me $200. If it's illegal I'll just park it up, as the fun dollar ratio would be skewed too far to the dollar side.

[Grumph]

Whats a lattice carrier? Is that what I have?
The only reason I have that system is because the wheel & discs complete with bearings & axle cost me $200. If it's illegal I'll just park it up, as the fun dollar ratio would be skewed too far to the dollar side.

Given the large PCD of your hub, I'm not buying into any arguments.....On the smaller PCD hubs like the majority of Suzuki models, I'd define a lattice carrier as one which has an outer ring bridging the disc pickup points. The period RG ones had stand alone "spokes" carrying the discs.
i note you're still using the (perfectly legal) leading axle forks too - which some would say are a penalty in themselves....
malky?......

[coops]

What about these ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321684013882?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I could make these fit

[sidecar bob]

Given the large PCD of your hub, I'm not buying into any arguments.....On the smaller PCD hubs like the majority of Suzuki models, I'd define a lattice carrier as one which has an outer ring bridging the disc pickup points. The period RG ones had stand alone "spokes" carrying the discs.
i note you're still using the (perfectly legal) leading axle forks too - which some would say are a penalty in themselves....
malky?......

Thee whole bike is a penalty. It will be adjusted to be legal or only entered as pre 89 until sorted, which won't affect Wanganui as they only run pre 89 anyway.
I'd hate to be protested for not spending enough.

[Grumph]

Thee whole bike is a penalty. It will be adjusted to be legal or only entered as pre 89 until sorted, which won't affect Wanganui as they only run pre 89 anyway.
I'd hate to be protested for not spending enough.

fair enough. A southlander who shall remain nameless proudly showed me his RG replica floating front discs which he assured me had cost around $400 a side.
He'll never be protested for not spending enough...

[Triplenut]

like these ones ?

[husaberg]

Honda period legal Floaters looked like this.
313529313530313531313532

Then again you could pretty easily float the early two piece Honda disk. Replace the stainless rotor at the same time:scratch:
From memory the center is aluminium alloy
313533313536

[coops]

Follow up post.
Went with brembo f08 calipers. found some second hand ones on trade me. 300mm non floating discs from Meatalgear Brisbane. Actually went and picked them up myself as I was in brizy on holiday. S/S braided lines from US (bout half the price I pay here) Ebay EBC HH pads (bout half the price id pay here)
Honda 14mm repop Master cylinder from Econohonda after I ditched the Chinese ebay one I bought. The econohonda one is great quality and price.
Made the caliper adapter brackets and the disc carriers. Although theyre non floating discs Ive floated them on the carriers .3mm in both axis rather than just buying floating discs to keep it within the race rules.
Effing awesome brakes now.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g382/coops5/brakes%20001_zpsrz4fwwja.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/coops5/media/brakes%20001_zpsrz4fwwja.jpg.html)

[Grumph]

Looks very nice, well done. Did you tell metalgear you were a Kiwi ? They have an agreement with the NZ agents that they won't sell into NZ, bastards...
There's a guy on the GSresources forum who lives about 5k away from the factory and has agreed to collect if i need any more.

[sidecar bob]

Just drill a couple of small holes in the top edge of the calipers next to the pins & lockwire them in.
Pull the wire tight around the thin part of the pin & then through the hole.

[Grumph]

Just drill a couple of small holes in the top edge of the calipers next to the pins & lockwire them in.
Pull the wire tight around the thin part of the pin & then through the hole.

I'm assuming you've had them come out ? I've never seen that...
Fairly hard to get them out, the split ring on the pin plus the arch spring in the center of the caliper don't make it easy.
If you're serious, just drill the end of the pin and use an R clip.

[nodrog]

I'm assuming you've had them come out ? I've never seen that...
Fairly hard to get them out, the split ring on the pin plus the arch spring in the center of the caliper don't make it easy.
If you're serious, just drill the end of the pin and use an R clip.

I just wire them to each other, its all or nothing for this white boy.

[Shaun Harris]

I just wire them to each other, its all or nothing for this white boy.


chewing gum also works- WOOPS

[sidecar bob]

I'm assuming you've had them come out ? I've never seen that...
Fairly hard to get them out, the split ring on the pin plus the arch spring in the center of the caliper don't make it easy.
If you're serious, just drill the end of the pin and use an R clip.

No, but I had to give a bloke my spare pins & pads at Hampton one day because his had.
The plastic cover is the last line of defence against them falling out & most racers run without them, hence the plan B.

[coops]

Looks very nice, well done. Did you tell metalgear you were a Kiwi ? They have an agreement with the NZ agents that they won't sell into NZ, bastards...
There's a guy on the GSresources forum who lives about 5k away from the factory and has agreed to collect if i need any more.
Ive had similar problems before (especially with suspension products :rolleyes: im sure some of you know who im talking about)
But no problem here. I asked for shipping price to NZ (through Ebay USA) and they quoted 70 bucks to NZ. Then I booked holiday to Marrochydore and saved some cash.
Asked after you Grumph at last cams meet....Hope all is well with you.
Since you know the bike well, I was scraping alternator cover on track first meeting out on it so had to cut the crank and make a cover. See pick.
And got some 1.1kg front springs on way via Sonic springs. Only other thing left to do is maybe emulators. Bike seems to handle good.
Cheers
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g382/coops5/cut%20001_zps8ozhcjxu.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/coops5/media/cut%20001_zps8ozhcjxu.jpg.html)
And a 1K engine :yes:

[sidecar bob]

Can you post up pics of the whole bike please?

[Drew]

Ive had similar problems before (especially with suspension products :rolleyes: im sure some of you know who im talking about)
But no problem here. I asked for shipping price to NZ (through Ebay USA) and they quoted 70 bucks to NZ. Then I booked holiday to Marrochydore and saved some cash.
Asked after you Grumph at last cams meet....Hope all is well with you.
Since you know the bike well, I was scraping alternator cover on track first meeting out on it so had to cut the crank and make a cover. See pick.
And got some 1.1kg front springs on way via Sonic springs. Only other thing left to do is maybe emulators. Bike seems to handle good.
Cheers

And a 1K engine :yes: Emulators are a decent upgrade over damper rods. If ya know someone with a set, save yourself some coin and make them. They're dead fucken simple.

If you're real handy on a lathe, you can just make your own big piston fork Emulators. But it's quite tricky and takes hours and hours to tune by trial and error.

[husaberg]

Emulators are a decent upgrade over damper rods. If ya know someone with a set, save yourself some coin and make them. They're dead fucken simple.

If you're real handy on a lathe, you can just make your own big piston fork Emulators. But it's quite tricky and takes hours and hours to tune by trial and error.

Or you could buy any of the many other substitutes.

http://old1.suspensionshop.org/products_yss_pdforkvalve.php
http://old1.suspensionshop.org/promax-pd-valves.php
http://www.mpcustomvalve.co.za/products.asp?cat=51

[Drew]

Or you could buy the other substitutes.

Ever seen a set of Emulators? For your 400 odd dollars, ya don't get much, materials/labour wise like.

[husaberg]

Ever seen a set of Emulators? For your 400 odd dollars, ya don't get much, materials/labour wise like.

Yes did you look at the links?
The alternatives are not $400
They need to be anodised as well.

[nodrog]

....
They need to be anodised as well.

there goes $8.59

[husaberg]

there goes $8.59

For you city slicker types.

[Drew]

Nope, I didn't follow the links.

Make them out of brass if ya don't wanna annodise them for whatever reason.

[husaberg]

Nope, I didn't follow the links.

Make them out of brass if ya don't wanna annodise them for whatever reason.
They should be hard anodised
its because the springs ride on them if you had followed the link you would see that there is other ones available at half the price of the Race tech ones.
if you were to copy them you would still need a pair to copy to ball park the orifice and the spring tension and the shim sizes.
Someone like Sketchy could then knock them out on the CNC.

[Drew]

They should be hard anodised
its because the springs ride on them if you had followed the link you would see that there is other ones available at half the price of the Race tech ones.
if you were to copy them you would still need a pair to copy to ball park the orifice and the spring tension and the shim sizes.
Someone like Sketchy could then knock them out on the CNC.
I did mention that if he knew someone with a set, he could copy them.

The brass racetech ones don't seem to wear away with the springs resting on them, not that I suggested anything wrong with annodising.

It doesn't need Sketchy to make them on a CNC. They can be spun on a lathe, and the ports filed by hand.

[husaberg]

I did mention that if he knew someone with a set, he could copy them.

The brass racetech ones don't seem to wear away with the springs resting on them, not that I suggested anything wrong with annodising.

It doesn't need Sketchy to make them on a CNC. They can be spun on a lathe, and the ports filed by hand.

it doesn't need to be done on a cnc but it makes more sense to do a run of them.
You also need the set up specs for the damper rod holes

[Grumph]

it doesn't need to be done on a cnc but it makes more sense to do a run of them.
You also need the set up specs for the damper rod holes

Economically it might make sense but I've never built two pre 82's the same - or used the same forks on two. You're dealing with one offs - and the specs you finish up with won't necessarily transfer to anything else. It's a very limited market here too.

[husaberg]

Economically it might make sense but I've never built two pre 82's the same - or used the same forks on two. You're dealing with one offs - and the specs you finish up with won't necessarily transfer to anything else. It's a very limited market here too.

I am not sure the emulators are that different between the models just the set up and the size of the emulator.

[coops]

Jeez, you lot bang on.
What about bushing these up? If your a tight prick like me. Apparently quality is good. Think I might.
https://www.mikesxs.net/products-19.html#products

[husaberg]

Jeez, you lot bang on.
What about bushing these up? If your a tight prick like me. Apparently quality is good. Think I might.
https://www.mikesxs.net/products-19.html#products
Great find
But You posted a link rookie mistake Drew can't click on these, he is too busy.
They are very inexpensive but remember Drew doesn't want to pay $400 for emulators:msn-wink:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/230-881

[Drew]

Great find
But You posted a link rookie mistake Drew can't click on these, he is too busy.
They are very inexpensive but remember Drew doesn't want to pay $400 for emulators:msn-wink:

I followed his link. Good price if they're the right size.

My experience of buying them was prior to them being available from many sources, so I guess I'm out of touch.

[husaberg]

I followed his link. Good price if they're the right size.

My experience of buying them was prior to them being available from many sources, so I guess I'm out of touch.

My one has some even cheaper.......... but I have no idea what they are like.
I do know a guy who has won a few national titles (no names)has used both the YSS ones and the Racetech Gold valve emulators and noticed no difference.

[sidecar bob]

Jeez, you lot bang on.
What about bushing these up? If your a tight prick like me. Apparently quality is good. Think I might.
https://www.mikesxs.net/products-19.html#products

I fuckin know, talk about keyboard daihorrea.
Could you put up pics of your bike?
Show me yours & I'll show you mine.

[coops]

I fuckin know, talk about keyboard daihorrea.
Could you put up pics of your bike?
Show me yours & I'll show you mine.
Yep....... but I gotta take pick first. Busy. il get round to it sometime.
Tell me.... Where is buttfuck nowhere?

[sidecar bob]

Yep....... but I gotta take pick first. Busy. il get round to it sometime.
Tell me.... Where is buttfuck nowhere?

Part way between Sanson & Kerikeri.:msn-wink:

[J.A.W.]

Looking for some sort of upgrade on my pre 82 gs750 race bike. currently has gpz 1100 b1 front end with 17" Suzuki bandit wheels.
Twin disc. but the gpz calipers are single pot. Useless.
Would be better with twin opposing pots or lockheeds or brembos or something.
Can use a lathe and mill so attaching shouldn't be a problem provided there is room between the wheel and discs. (for inner pot)
Havnt had a lot of time to research this but basically all jap bikes of this era had crap, absolutetly crap brakes...other options expensive?
I haven't actually found any options. Must be manufactured pre 82 or look the same.
Any help would be appreciated.
Steve.

Oddly enough, I recently checked out a mate's newly bought late `70s KZ 1000 LTD US 'custom' chopper-style Kawasaki..
& it features a large rear disc gripped by a big twin opposed piston caliper, that very much resembles the type Kawasaki
put on their race bikes of that era..

Of course the the front brakes were the crappy single piston sliding caliper type, funny that the Nippon makers did that kind of thing,
Yamaha was doing it too, right up to the mid `80s..

[FROSTY]

I dunno if this helps but in its day The Yamaha XJ900 had about the best brakes out there. Ventilated disks and big twin opposed piston calipers.
I know in NZ they came out in 83 but I wonder if the brakes were used on something else before the 900

[RDjase]

https://www.mikesxs.net/parts/img250/27-1086.jpg


Jeez, you lot bang on.
What about bushing these up? If your a tight prick like me. Apparently quality is good. Think I might.
https://www.mikesxs.net/products-19.html#products



I have those in my RD350LC race bike, with 32mm forks, the XS650 has 35mm forks with thick walled fork tubes. I did have the dimensions written on the shed wall from when I fitted them, moved house since then and didn't take the piece of wall with me.
If I get time I will slip then out and have a measure and post some pics