Stiff turning key

[haydes55]

My new bike K8 GSF1250s ABS Bandit (All the numbers and letters) has a frustrating issue...

The key works perfectly in the fuel cap, works fine to undo the seat, but it takes a good minute of wriggling around to get the key to the ON position.

I have 2 keys, both keys work fine everywhere except the ignition.

I gave the ignition barrel a liberal dousing of CRC. Very slight change, still takes a bit of fiddling and pressure before it finally clicks over.

Should I look at replacing ignition barrel? Get the ignition barrel to a lock smith for a service? Try get a new key cut for it? Keep bathing it in CRC til it works?

[mossy1200]

My new bike K8 GSF1250s ABS Bandit (All the numbers and letters) has a frustrating issue...

The key works perfectly in the fuel cap, works fine to undo the seat, but it takes a good minute of wriggling around to get the key to the ON position.

I have 2 keys, both keys work fine everywhere except the ignition.

I gave the ignition barrel a liberal dousing of CRC. Very slight change, still takes a bit of fiddling and pressure before it finally clicks over.

Should I look at replacing ignition barrel? Get the ignition barrel to a lock smith for a service? Try get a new key cut for it? Keep bathing it in CRC til it works?

Same. Lift and turn works for me.

[FJRider]

Is the key an original or factory made ... ???

My guess it will be one that is cut as a replica of an original.

My advice is to put the cut edges against an electric wire brush ... and take the rough edges off the key "teeth".

[Ocean1]

I gave the ignition barrel a liberal dousing of CRC.

Often a bad move, attracts dust and shit and clogs up the pins. I've seen graphite used, but most locksmiths don't recommend any sort of liquid lubricant.

A pro once tickled up the ignition lock on my car so it worked better, but he reckoned a lot of them are shite.

[jellywrestler]

Try get a new key cut for it? Keep bathing it in CRC til it works?

absolutely not, nearly the worse thing you can do...........

[nzspokes]

absolutely not, nearly the worse thing you can do...........

Agreed.

Graphite powder is what you need but the CRC will cause a problem with this now.

[haydes55]

Brake cleaner to clear out junk, that stuff dries it out good, then graphite powder?

The keys are both identicle, they have Suzuki written on the black top, so presume they're from new. I wouldn't blame the keys if they work fine in the other slots?

I've done some googling, I might look at getting another ignition barrel cheap (with keys) or this one looked at by a lock smith. There's lots of small moving parts in there to be broken.

[jellywrestler]

Brake cleaner to clear out junk, that stuff dries it out good, then graphite powder?

The keys are both identicle, they have Suzuki written on the black top, so presume they're from new. I wouldn't blame the keys if they work fine in the other slots?

I've done some googling, I might look at getting another ignition barrel cheap (with keys) or this one looked at by a lock smith. There's lots of small moving parts in there to be broken.

if it was me i'd be reomving it and inverting and spending quite a bit of time cleaning, but first, consult a locksmith as it's their trade, see what they recommend.
i used graphite in domestic applications, and have used a bit on bikes but remember your key can get grubby, like all keys and is vertical, not like domestic locks so what goes in is most likely to stay in.

[caspernz]

My take on this has been to use an occasional little squirt of WD40 to keep things moving freely. Seems to have worked well for me. Brake cleaner might be counter productive in such an item, IMHO.

[Ocean1]

Brake cleaner to clear out junk, that stuff dries it out good, then graphite powder?

The keys are both identicle, they have Suzuki written on the black top, so presume they're from new. I wouldn't blame the keys if they work fine in the other slots?

I've done some googling, I might look at getting another ignition barrel cheap (with keys) or this one looked at by a lock smith. There's lots of small moving parts in there to be broken.

Worth a shot Nigel.

Although a chat with a locksmith first might provide better advice.

Most likely issue is that it's simply slightly dodgy build, and the pins don't quite line up. A smithy should be able to identify the culprit and if the barrel is removable at all he can fix it.

Might cost more than a new ignition though...

[buggerit]

Is the tightness in the on to off position, or only when you engage the steering lock?

[The Baron]

The lock needs to go to a locksmith.

Like all trades they charge by time so if you remove the lock from the bike and take it to them it will be at a much more reasonable price.

It does not sound like a key issue.

Also- never force a key to turn. Rattle the key but do not force. Rattle may make things fall into place. To force will only do damage.

Ride safe.

[haydes55]

Is the tightness in the on to off position, or only when you engage the steering lock?
On to off works fine, it's off to on and off to lock that's an issue.

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[awayatc]

Key...?

Screwdriver works just fine after initial bit of controled violence.....

any key wil work after that....;)

[jellywrestler]

CRC worked fine for me on my fuel tank cap. CRC do make electrical contact cleaner spray which may be more suited to the ignition switch.

and also all the shit sticks to crc so you will end up with a porridge like substance in there, read earlier in the thread

[haydes55]

Key...?

Screwdriver works just fine after initial bit of controled violence.....

any key wil work after that....;)

I did consider just bypassing the ignition and having a hidden switch or something... Probably look too dodgy haha.

[buggerit]

On to off works fine, it's off to on and off to lock that's an issue.

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Steering lock pin slightly bent?

[Mike.Gayner]

Often a bad move, attracts dust and shit and clogs up the pins. I've seen graphite used, but most locksmiths don't recommend any sort of liquid lubricant.

A pro once tickled up the ignition lock on my car so it worked better, but he reckoned a lot of them are shite.

I kept hearing this over and over again and it never passed the sniff test to me, so decided to do my own research. After some Googling and time on locksmith discussion groups I found it to be absolute bollocks. This was a while ago so I don't have any references, but I found an industry survey that showed almost every locksmith preferred WD40 (or other similar product) over graphite or any other non-liquid product.

My personal experience has been that WD40/CRC is extremely effective in locks, and I've yet to see a lock "gummed up" by the use of these products.

edit: I should also mention that most locksmiths don't seem to recommend graphite on locks that get wet (e.g. motorcycles) because that WILL clog up.

[baffa]

I have this on a 2010 predator, simply because there is an angle it likes locking and unlocking. Take the bars about an inch back from full left and you should find it works fine.


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