Clutch replacement on DRZ?

[biketimus_prime]

Hi all,

Never done a clutch replacement on a motorbike before but it doesn't look too hard. Can anyone give me any protips before I start?

What catches newbies out when they do the job? I understand that the first and last plate are particular and you can't mix and match?

Also what kind of clutch should I go for on my DRZ400. I mainly commute and it gets ridden hard on weekends but I don't do clutch up wheelies or anything, just hard shifting and power wheelies which I assume is hard on the clutch pack but not as bad as clutch wheelies.

Do I just get an OEM replacement with cork the cork friction plates or should I upgrade? General consensus online appears to be that OEM is far better than kevlar and carbon that seems to wear out quick.
Any recommendations of where to buy the clutch kit?

Thanks in advance

[haydes55]

Just go for OEM.

It's not like you're wrangling 150hp.

No experience with drz clutches. But make sure you put the plates in, in the same order they come out. Fibre, spacer, fibre, spacer, fibre.

Make sure the springs are wound in evenly.

Bit of common sense and its hard to fuck up.

Why are you replacing the clutch?

[FJRider]

Why are you replacing the clutch?

Maybe the car oil he is using has caused the clutch to slip .... :blank:

[biketimus_prime]

Just go for OEM.

It's not like you're wrangling 150hp.

No experience with drz clutches. But make sure you put the plates in, in the same order they come out. Fibre, spacer, fibre, spacer, fibre.

Make sure the springs are wound in evenly.

Bit of common sense and its hard to fuck up.

Why are you replacing the clutch?

No particular reason. The bike has done almost 20,000km and there is a rattling noise that dulls when I pull in the clutch. A mate who rode the bike said the clutch feels soft and it definitely does feel different to the DRZ400E I rode which even grabs much more forcefully and suddenly compared to mine which feels very soft, delayed. Not slipping or anything though and the characteristic is great in traffic but I figured the clutch kit is cheap enough to consider a replacement if is around $200 tops.


Maybe the car oil he is using has caused the clutch to slip .... :blank:

I have never used car oil! Who did that :/

[FJRider]

No particular reason. The bike has done almost 20,000km and there is a rattling noise that dulls when I pull in the clutch. A mate who rode the bike said the clutch feels soft and it definitely does feel different to the DRZ400E I rode which even grabs much more forcefully and suddenly compared to mine which feels very soft, delayed. Not slipping or anything though and the characteristic is great in traffic but I figured the clutch kit is cheap enough to consider a replacement if is around $200 tops.

"Different" is not bad. A mates bad advise IS ... Get EXPERT advise from one who CAN give expert advise.


But ... it's YOUR money ... :doh:


I have never used car oil! Who did that :/

Your mate said you did ... :blank:

[awayatc]

Is your clutch cable in good condition ?
no hard bends,
moving freely
Properly adjusted...

Enough suitable and clean oil in engine...?

[SVboy]

SM clutches dont seem to wear badly at all. Whats a "soft" clutch? Is it slipping under load? Is take up right at the extreme of the lever being let out, despite adjusting the cable? If it is not broke-dont fix! If it is-OEM plates seem best. Soak plates in motor oil over night before fitting. With old plates out, check the basket for fretting in the tangs. If so, remove basket, file smooth, or replace basket. Lube cable if clutch fees sticky.[or even if it does not]

[SVboy]

Oh-rattling noise-check front sprocket is tight on countershaft. If loose, swear loudly, this can be a gearbox death sentence on a DRZ. Refer to THUMPERTALK for Locktite fix, if it is not to late.......ask me how I know.......

[Fern]

I used an EBC clutch plate kit in my DRZ, it was a right pain in the arse, as i'd read it doesn't work with the shudder rings, you have to leave them out. Had epic issues, dunno if it was the EBC plates or the heavy duty springs, but I had to pull it apart and reassemble about 5 times, to get it right, and the new motion pro cable didn't seem to be the right length...

[biketimus_prime]

"Different" is not bad. A mates bad advise IS ... Get EXPERT advise from one who CAN give expert advise.

But ... it's YOUR money ... :doh:

Your mate said you did ... :blank:

I have never EVER put the wrong oil in my engines of any of my bikes!
I have been to Colemans Suzuki twice now and 2 different people have had a brief listen and said there is nothing wrong. But they never even really paid attention, just treated me like I was crazy and was giving me a bit of attention so I'd go away.
But the engine is way noisier than any other DRZ I've checked 4 now and they're all quiet unlike mine so I can't take Coleman's advice 100% because they won't take it seriously. The rattle is more defined when I have earplugs in. Definitely coming from the lower end when I listened with a screwdriver. Top top end rumble is something else to deal with eventually, maybe when I do valve clearances. Already changed the cam chain tensioner to a manual one and that took away some of the noise and I am 100% sure it is set correctly.


Is your clutch cable in good condition ?
no hard bends,
moving freely
Properly adjusted...

Enough suitable and clean oil in engine...?

Yes the cable is in good condition and lubricated etc. Oil is always changed around 3000km at most.


SM clutches dont seem to wear badly at all. Whats a "soft" clutch? Is it slipping under load? Is take up right at the extreme of the lever being let out, despite adjusting the cable? If it is not broke-dont fix! If it is-OEM plates seem best. Soak plates in motor oil over night before fitting. With old plates out, check the basket for fretting in the tangs. If so, remove basket, file smooth, or replace basket. Lube cable if clutch fees sticky.[or even if it does not]


Oh-rattling noise-check front sprocket is tight on countershaft. If loose, swear loudly, this can be a gearbox death sentence on a DRZ. Refer to THUMPERTALK for Locktite fix, if it is not to late.......ask me how I know.......

Soft clutch as in it doesn't have that sudden bite the other DRZs have. I can drop the clutch and it'll just engage more smoothly than the others. It's not slipping or anything at high loads and I can do clutch ups in first gear just fine. I'm just worried about the rattle.
I've done the loctite fixes on the stator and starter gear area etc. Countershaft is tight and doesn't need it, locking washer tab is bent over it and fine.


I used an EBC clutch plate kit in my DRZ, it was a right pain in the arse, as i'd read it doesn't work with the shudder rings, you have to leave them out. Had epic issues, dunno if it was the EBC plates or the heavy duty springs, but I had to pull it apart and reassemble about 5 times, to get it right, and the new motion pro cable didn't seem to be the right length...


Will probably stick to factory plates thanks :)

[FJRider]

I have never EVER put the wrong oil in my engines of any of my bikes!

Maybe a previous owner did ... damage done and ... YOU get the problems ...:msn-wink:


I have been to Colemans Suzuki twice now and 2 different people have had a brief listen and said there is nothing wrong. But they never even really paid attention, just treated me like I was crazy and was giving me a bit of attention so I'd go away.

So ... you trust your mates advise over the staff at Colemans Suzuki ... ???????

Good mates are hard to find. Get HIM to fix it ... :devil2:


But the engine is way noisier than any other DRZ I've checked 4 now and they're all quiet unlike mine so I can't take Coleman's advice 100% because they won't take it seriously.

Are you saying the engine is noisy ... as opposed to the clutch being noisy ... ???? :scratch:


The rattle is more defined when I have earplugs in. Definitely coming from the lower end when I listened with a screwdriver. Top top end rumble is something else to deal with eventually, maybe when I do valve clearances. Already changed the cam chain tensioner to a manual one and that took away some of the noise and I am 100% sure it is set correctly.

You are 100% sure ... yet you ask our advise ... ????????????????? :blank:


Take it to any motorcycle shop ... ask them to strip problem area (you obviously know what that area is) down and FIX it ...

Done ...


Yes the cable is in good condition and lubricated etc. Oil is always changed around 3000km at most.

In your expert opinion ... of course ...:bleh:


Soft clutch as in it doesn't have that sudden bite the other DRZs have. I can drop the clutch and it'll just engage more smoothly than the others. It's not slipping or anything at high loads and I can do clutch ups in first gear just fine. I'm just worried about the rattle.

Perhaps ... "other" DRZ's have an issue ... ???? Most mass produced vehicles can and do have different characteristics and sounds. As I have already stated ... "different" is not always BAD.


I've done the loctite fixes on the stator and starter gear area etc. Countershaft is tight and doesn't need it, locking washer tab is bent over it and fine.

If you're not in the mototcycle repair industry ... perhaps you should be ... :devil2:


But ... I'll avoid taking mine to you ... :msn-wink:



Will probably stick to factory plates thanks :)

You want to spend mony on work that doesn't need done ... but wont waste it on actual improvements to the bike performance ...

[biketimus_prime]

I honestly think you're talking about someone else regarding the car oil put into a bike... The guy who owned this DRZ before me owns his own motorcycle shop and I'm pretty sure he wouldn't have done that.

Also none of my mates have said anything about issues regarding my bike. This is all me. This is me thinking there is something not 100% right. My mates haven't said anything only I have because of what I've experienced compared to other DRZs.

Now that we have it cleared up...

I have a rattle from the clutch side of the engine that dulls when I pull the clutch lever in.
On top of that the top end of my engine is very noisy when I rev it. These two are separate issues.
I wanted to know about changing the clutch as I want to open up the cover and inspect what is going on in there and may as well replace the plates while I'm there.

As for your comments about my abilities. I've now owned 9 bikes. I think I know the difference between a well lubed clutch cable and one that isn't. I've also been doing my own mechanical work for years on my cars and bikes. When I think something is not quite right, I'm usually correct. I was just hoping colemans could help pinpoint exactly what it could be seeing as they deal with a lot of DRZs and so I can order parts and prepare before I get started because I commute everyday and don't want to risk any down time.

Anyway that's why I plan to open it up and check, even if it is just for a sanity check. I think perhaps the springs are loose in the clutch basket possibly but I can't be sure.

[FJRider]

... I have a rattle from the clutch side of the engine that dulls when I pull the clutch lever in.


10 year old bike clutches are usually a little worn .. bearings have a little (a little more than new) play ... the original tolerances on mass produced bikes may vary considerably.


not always a bad thing.


Chasing rattles can be compared to chasing shadows ... is/will the gains (if any)be worth the effort/money.

It's your money ... YOU choose.

[SVboy]

Top end rattle-perhaps the cam chain is too stretched by the acct, despite you fitting a mcct? Also the decompressor mechanism cam slog out and rattle. Remove before it falls apart into engine! Don't know about a bottom end rattle sorry.