Loctite gasket product

[Premature Accelerato]

Last year while at Manfeild, I had need to remove my clutch cover to check out a couple of things inside. When I put it all back together I buggered the gasket when putting in one of the clutch cover screws/bolts. It was just enough to let it leak oil everywhere. After a bit of cursing, the guy in the next stall lent me his Loctite gastket stuff. I cleaned all the oil off the casing, gave it a thin smear of the Loctite product, put it together, left it for 30 min and away I went, good as new. I am about to open up the clutch again and want to get some of the loctite product. Does anyone have any idea which one it could have been. I see Loctite have products, 518, 515 and 510 but none of them jump out at me. Does anyone have a preference for one of these or use it on a regular basis? Thanks in advance.

[sidecar bob]

515 is purple, 518 is red, they both seem to do the same thing. It's probably on or the other. They are both great products.

[Grumph]

I used to use the purple a lot cos it was the only stuff I ever found to be Methanol resistant...

Not so important nowadays.

[Kickaha]

I use the Red Master Gasket 518, it keeps oil inside the BSA so it must work ok

I used to use three bond which works awesome but I just find it horrible sticky shit to use and clean off

[husaberg]

Anyone here ever used this stuff?
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm

[nodrog]

Just use selleys all clear.

[nodrog]

Anyone here ever used this stuff?
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm

yeah, I think its purposely designed to go on your fingers so you know just what tools, and door handles you used last night.

[husaberg]

yeah, I think its purposely designed to go on your fingers so you know just what tools, and door handles you used last night.

Anyone not called Gordon used
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm

[skippa1]

Just use selleys all clear.
Fixes anything that shit, coughs colds and scabby holes

[nodrog]

Anyone not called Gordon used
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm

its like loctite, but blue.

[Grumph]

Anyone not called Gordon used
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm

Can't be arsed following the link but if it's blue Hylomar, all the guys working on brit bombs used to swear by it.
personally, I don't like it as it dissolves way too easy. from memory it doesn't like synthetic oil.
Threebond is much better, Selleys all clear is fine for leaky old pom shitters and domestic plumbing.

[sidecar bob]

Can't be arsed following the link but if it's blue Hylomar, all the guys working on brit bombs used to swear by it.
personally, I don't like it as it dissolves way too easy. from memory it doesn't like synthetic oil.
Threebond is much better, Selleys all clear is fine for leaky old pom shitters and domestic plumbing.

I put my katana engine together with it in about '87, the thing leaked like a sieve.
I may have just worked out why.

[husaberg]

its like loctite, but blue.

The reason why I asked is that I can remember a non setting one we used to use from Honda.
the Honda one was of course ubber expensive. that one seemed to be non setting (other than sticking to nodrog)
Also the stuff I posted seemed to be a bit higher temp than Loctite.

ie glowing red hot headers


Hylomar Universal Blue is the world standard for a non-setting sealant. It is used by many of the worlds automotive manufacturers, major airlines, compressor manufacturers, heavy equipment manufacturers, various OEMs and racing teams. It is a polyester urethane based viscous putty blended with a solvent to make it easy to apply, whether pumped, applied in a tube, or sprayed in an aerosol. It was a revolutionary sealant when it was introduced over 40 years ago, a development product out of Rolls Royce that was used to seal the flanges in gas turbine engines and withstand the high temperatures and intense vibration of a jet engine. A non-setting sealant, it doesn't harden, even at 250oC. It has a unique curtaining action. As flanges sealed with Hylomar Universal Blue are pulled apart, the material stretches, and then breaks cohesively, leaving sealant on both sides. When the flanges return together, the putty reseals, a self-healing mechanism. This makes Universal Blue a particularly effective sealant on close fitting large flanges which are subject to extreme vibration, distortion, or joint movement, because while the seal may break for a microsecond, it reseals and the fluids remain contained.
If you would like to experiment, try spraying the back of a poster with Hylomar XP Aerosol. It will then adhere to a wall or another surface, yet can be pulled apart like a Post-It Note.

Hylomar Universal Blue has higher adhesion, and will support more weight than a Post-It Note, but it works on a similar principle. Some customers have used AF to position metal pieces in place during assembly when they need to be re-positioned or adjusted later in the process. The temporary bond would hold the piece in place temporarily.

As Universal Blue is non-curing, it allows for easy disassembly and repair. Old Universal Blue can be just wiped off with a rag, paper towel (it works better with a solvent such as our Hylomar Gasket Remover) or Hylomar Grand Prix Wipes.

The application of Universal Blue is straightforward, which makes for simple manufacturing processes. There are no set times to observe, nor cure times to slow up testing or assembly. AF will not clog up nozzles or cure over a shut-down period. In fact, the shelf life of Universal Blue is extremely long. While Hylomar only warrants its product for two years, under proper storage conditions Universal Blue is known to last for very long times and remain effective.We have seen tubes from the 1960s that are still ok (although we do not recommend using or guarantee product this old).

AF has been noted to work at temperatures up to 350°C on certain applications. We hypothesize that the silica/Hylomar polymer mixture fills the tiny surface imperfections of these joints, and at high temperatures even after the polymer degrades (which starts to occur at temperatures above 250C) the silica and residue remain as a film on the surface, which for close fitting flanges closes off the leak paths.

For example Hylomar Advanced Formulation has been used to seal exhaust manifolds.

[Akzle]

pops .

[Ocean1]

The red Loctite works well for most stuff.

I used to use Caterpillar 5H2471. Unbeatable stuff. But they stopped making it years ago and I finally ran out.

One of the great things about it other than the fact that it worked was the smell...

[Madness]

Henkel recommend 518 for alloy/aluminium applications, 515 for steel. 518 also comes in a syringe.

[Premature Accelerato]

Thanks for you responses guys, have just purchased some 518. I started a thread last year about a gearbox problem I was having, not being able to change down from 4th gear and am now about to follow up on an idea that may be causing the problem. Why so long to do this you may ask. Well my brother binned my bike big time on the track just before xmas last year and I have spent all this last year rebuilding it. Am now able to look at the gearbox problem. Will put up some info on what I find on the original thread, as there may be some people out there who have had similar problems and could benefit from what I find out.

[tri boy]

Timely reminder to people, that although most gaskit goo(TM) is awesome, please remember that the paper gaskets, (and steel ones) also have a second function, to act as shimming in some situations. ie Honda RFVC rocker covers. Leave it out at your own peril.
As you were.:sunny:

[pete376403]

Shit that brings back a few memories ( I did my apprenticeship at GGH on Cat tractors) That rubbery orange gasket poo in the tin with the brush in the lid? You could get high as a kite sniffing that, and it was really good sealant as well. Then I was introduced to RTV silicone with the salt'n'vinegar smell (odd way to rate sealant, by the smell, but...)

[husaberg]

Shit that brings back a few memories ( I did my apprenticeship at GGH on Cat tractors) That rubbery orange gasket poo in the tin with the brush in the lid? You could get high as a kite sniffing that, and it was really good sealant as well. Then I was introduced to RTV silicone with the salt'n'vinegar smell (odd way to rate sealant, by the smell, but...)

The salt in vinegar smell is acetic acid (vinegar)

[Flip]

Blue Haylomar has been around for ages. Its a solvent based gasket goo. Works very well with oil but not fuel resistant. It always stays soft and sticky.

Locktight 518 is a hard anerobic gasket eliminator for ridgid joints. Sets like hard plastic. Really needs clean joints to work best.

Locktight 5970 is a soft low bond strength silicon for flexable joints. Sets like rubber. Will work even if the surfaces are oily.

There is no right jointing product and no wrong one. Some are slightly better in some applications than others but all work well enough.

[Woodman]

518/515 has been my go to for years. The barrell and head on my Benelli are sealed with 518 and works great. Easy to clean up too and the excess that may get squeezed inside doesn't go all stringy, rather just melts away.

[Premature Accelerato]

Thanks for all the info. "Flip", if 518 sets like hard plastic, given that I havnt taken the clutch housing cover off since I used what I presume was 518 last year, am I likely to have difficulty seperating the 2 surfaces. Both are reasonably thin section aluminium so I guess there is a chance that I may end up breaking the cover, or worse, the engine:facepalm: side of the casing. Would applying some heat soften the sealant?

[nodrog]

Thanks for all the info. "Flip", if 518 sets like hard plastic, given that I havnt taken the clutch housing cover off since I used what I presume was 518 last year, am I likely to have difficulty seperating the 2 surfaces. Both are reasonably thin section aluminium so I guess there is a chance that I may end up breaking the cover, or worse, the engine:facepalm: side of the casing. Would applying some heat soften the sealant?

it comes apart piece of piss, my sidecar is full of it, and that comes apart at most race meets.

[sidecar bob]

it comes apart piece of piss, my sidecar is full of it, and that comes apart at most race meets.

Just not at the gasket joints.