GSX-R1000 fuel gauge installation?

[Kittyhawk]

Bought a new fuel gauge, got lost in a wiring diagram in the Haynes Manual for my bike.....got no clue how to put two n two together to make it work.

My bike is an 04 Gsxr 1000

I assume the tank has a built in gauge because of the reserve light comes on when fuel is low, would Iconnect the fuel gauge wire to the 'Fuel pump and level sensor' wire which runs to the instrument cluster?

:brick:

[nodrog]

I thought the gsxr just had a "low fuel" light which comes on when a couple of litres are left.

[Kittyhawk]

I thought the gsxr just had a "low fuel" light which comes on when a couple of litres are left.

Yes but I got up to 50kms with the light on, and I dont know how far it can go, plus with variations in speeds, I dont like not having a fuel gauge. It's a project Ive wanted to do.

[awayatc]

Your sender in the tank will be the limiting factor....
Fuel light coming on just means float in tank goes down u ntill it closes a circuit to make low fuel light come on....

[FJRider]

Yes but I got up to 50kms with the light on, and I dont know how far it can go, plus with variations in speeds, I dont like not having a fuel gauge. It's a project Ive wanted to do.

If it had no fuel gauge to start with ... there will be no fuel float in the tank to operate the gauge.

The warning light sender in the tank to indicate (make the low fuel light work) will be not sufficient to make a fuel gauge work.

Best is fill a fuel container ... and see how far you get with the fuel light (steady) on ...


To be honest ... not all fuel gauges are created equal ... most give dubious readings at best.

[Big Dog]

In a car they are usually a separate circuit so that the gauge failing will not prevent the fuel light coming on. I don't see why a bike would be different.
Most after market fuel gauges are more of a sight glass.

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[spanner spinner]

had quick look at a couple of wiring diagrams for you bike and the gauge is not going to work as is. The low fuel light is triggered by a resister set up in your fuel tank. These have a small current flowing through them which heats them up, when there is fuel covering them they are cooled by the fuel and are low resistance when the fuel drops low enough and uncovers them they heat up and there resistance rises and current flow drops. This change in current flow is what the instruments on your bike look for to turn the fuel light on. This won't drive a fuel gauge as it is a on off signal. If you added the fuel gauge into this circuit the extra draw from the fuel gauge may cause problems with the fuel light circuit, either it won't work or worst case damage either the instruments or the sensor in the tank.

[Rhys]

Your best bet would be to put a T on the fuel line with a clear tube running up to the top of the tank to create a sight glass. If you put a coloured bead in there it makes it easier to see the fuel level

[skippa1]

Use a stick or a piece of driftwood and dip the tank to get a level. Very reliable and a bit of grit in the tank rubs any rust off

[F5 Dave]

I measured my rf carrying some spare gas until it ran out. 84km. Silly. Took the sensor out and resoldered it lower down. Light comes on. Get gas in next 30 is or push. Read the odo.

[Kittyhawk]

Ive been advised to change the complete unit that bolts onto the tank. This seems easier, then I can run a separate line for fuel gauge.

A little project to help pass time and learn something new.

[Kittyhawk]

If it had no fuel gauge to start with ... there will be no fuel float in the tank to operate the gauge.

The warning light sender in the tank to indicate (make the low fuel light work) will be not sufficient to make a fuel gauge work.

Best is fill a fuel container ... and see how far you get with the fuel light (steady) on ...


To be honest ... not all fuel gauges are created equal ... most give dubious readings at best.

Love you FJ! xox:love:


In a car they are usually a separate circuit so that the gauge failing will not prevent the fuel light coming on. I don't see why a bike would be different.
Most after market fuel gauges are more of a sight glass.

Sent via tapatalk.

Didn't know you were still on here! :facepalm:

[FJRider]

I measured my rf carrying some spare gas until it ran out. 84km. Silly. Took the sensor out and resoldered it lower down. Light comes on. Get gas in next 30 is or push. Read the odo.

The tripmeter on the FJ is pretty accurate.

I can bank on 280 km's (average riding) before I need gas.

[eldog]

To be honest ... not all fuel gauges are created equal ... most give dubious readings at best.
fuel low light maybe just a switch connected to a float in the tank
maybe check out some one like - robinson instruments they maybe able to help, or at least give you some advice

My bikes fuel gauge reflects the tank shape, which is wider at the top than the bottom, takes a long time to drop down after being filled but speeds up if rate of descent as it nears the MT mark. I guess this is because the sender unit is basically a linear resistor with a float attached to a pivot (I haven't seen it so I don't know for sure) Some bikes have 2 levels of fuel warning light.....

My question is what happens when it runs out of fuel
- does the fuel pump stop?
- will it burn out if run dry?
- does it need priming again once more fuel is added

does it depend on the bike (Fuel injected) do I need to check?

just in case I screw up and run out.

[FJRider]

My bikes fuel gauge reflects the tank shape, which is wider at the top than the bottom, takes a long time to drop down after being filled but speeds up if rate of descent as it nears the MT mark. I guess this is because the sender unit is basically a linear resistor with a float attached to a pivot (I haven't seen it so I don't know for sure) Some bikes have 2 levels of fuel warning light.....

If ALL roads were level ... and you traveled at exactly the same speed ALL the time everywhere .. you will have no issues predicting / knowing how much fuel remains in your tank. in the twisties ... some gauges can have a little "Lag" and need a bit of straight steady and level to get a half decent reading. The slosh in the tank as you slow or increase your speed does the same.

You do get an idea just how much you will have in the tank with regular use ... and can often confirm with your tripmeter reading.


My question is what happens when it runs out of fuel
- does the fuel pump stop?
- will it burn out if run dry?
- does it need priming again once more fuel is added

No it keeps running ... well at least mine does.

If you leave the key on ... probably yes .. but with no fuel ,the engine will not be running and you WILL hear the fuel pump clicking.

No ... gravity feeds fuel to the pump .... and the fuel line is (well should be) sealed ... and will suck the fuel easily anyway. Mine only takes a few seconds (if that) of pumping before the pump stops pumping prior to starting. Most modern cars have fuel pumps at/on the engine ... with the tank at the rear. Just turn the key on and it primes itself.



does it depend on the bike (Fuel injected) do I need to check?

just in case I screw up and run out.

No ...

[Big Dog]

Love you FJ! xox:love:



Didn't know you were still on here! :facepalm:
Sometimes I am here but not always on. Someone's I am on but not always here.

:)

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[Dave-]

The 04 gsxr's were fuel injected amirite? This is easy then.

You need to measure a few characteristics of your injectors, primarily their flow rate, but also their dead time.

You can splice into the injector signal wires and measure the duty cycle of the injectors at a given time, you'll also need to know fuel temperature, ideally at the injector but somewhere in line will suffice. You can take this knowledge and convert it into a fuel mass, subtracting the known consumed fuel mass from the known amount in the tank gives you the remaining fuel.

There's a few other methods you can use, Redbull F1 have a few ideas, some of the suggestions here seem far too logical and simple to me. You're dealing with a highly non linear system, I suggest you make your solution more complex to compensate.

[F5 Dave]

No no, you just need to know the weight of the bike full vs empty. Then write a phone app combining the GPS data with respect to acceleration performance and accounting for the krolisis effect should be quite accurate to the nearest zwindit.

[AllanB]

Fucks sake. Fill tank. Ride bike until low fuel light comes on. note kms and riding you have done. Remember for next time.

[Kittyhawk]

Fucks sake. Fill tank. Ride bike until low fuel light comes on. note kms and riding you have done. Remember for next time.

Dont work like that with one brain cell sorry. :devil2:

[EJK]

Here is an outside of the box thinking...

Buy a bike with a fuel gauge. Problem solved, I'm a fucking genius!






You're welcome.

[Kittyhawk]

Here is an outside of the box thinking...

Buy a bike with a fuel gauge. Problem solved, I'm a fucking genius!






You're welcome.

Nope! No cock = complicated methods to solve simple problems! :love:

[Big Dog]

You could always make a custom tank that was either see through or had a transparent panel.

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[Big Dog]

Nope! No cock = complicated methods to solve simple problems! :love:
Yep, that is your problem a lack of float Cock. Google brings lots of inages but won't let me save or link them.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSA4-2FPym19RprA4T0M4ScrSLQoiwZmi8NCuRagd5qKo0-Uwyu
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[imdying]

The 04 gsxr's were fuel injected amirite? This is easy then.

You need to measure a few characteristics of your injectors, primarily their flow rate, but also their dead time.

You can splice into the injector signal wires and measure the duty cycle of the injectors at a given time, you'll also need to know fuel temperature, ideally at the injector but somewhere in line will suffice. You can take this knowledge and convert it into a fuel mass, subtracting the known consumed fuel mass from the known amount in the tank gives you the remaining fuel.

There's a few other methods you can use, Redbull F1 have a few ideas, some of the suggestions here seem far too logical and simple to me. You're dealing with a highly non linear system, I suggest you make your solution more complex to compensate.This is the easiest way, IMO.

TeeRiver on the svrider.com forum produces these for Suzukis (he intercepts the serial comms between the ECU and dash IIRC), and his customers report they're errily accurate.

[Dave-]

This is the easiest way, IMO.

TeeRiver on the svrider.com forum produces these for Suzukis (he intercepts the serial comms between the ECU and dash IIRC), and his customers report they're errily accurate.

I thought about mounting the fuel tank via load cells or perhaps strain gauges then take a rolling average of the deflection created by the fuel mass.

The temperature compensation on strain gauges can be tricky though, especially above an engine, which is why I think my first idea is better.