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Calvert86
18th September 2015, 22:08
Hi,

Have stripped back to minimum wiring I think for a bucket build and am getting ready to put back together for a test and just trying to get some clarification to a few things regarding what I've done to the wiring harness...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/479d96f790156834ab712d1b5759fac5.jpg

Above and highlighted is what I'm down to and just got some questions on it...

I've removed ignition and will just run an aftermarket start/stop switch

Going by this diagram can I delete the orange wire and just run the red from the regulator straight to the start/stop switch on position?

Orange/white wire should be connected to the start/stop off position running to the CDI?

The black and white wire from battery runs straight to the regulator and also from CDI to ignition coil...on the ignition coil it's basically just an earth wire to the frame is that right?? Can't remember how it was attached originally when I took it off!!

Not running starter button and the starter motor has been removed...any help appreciated!


Calvert86

spanner spinner
19th September 2015, 22:23
Hi,

Have stripped back to minimum wiring I think for a bucket build and am getting ready to put back together for a test and just trying to get some clarification to a few things regarding what I've done to the wiring harness...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/479d96f790156834ab712d1b5759fac5.jpg

Above and highlighted is what I'm down to and just got some questions on it...

I've removed ignition and will just run an aftermarket start/stop switch

Going by this diagram can I delete the orange wire and just run the red from the regulator straight to the start/stop switch on position?

Orange/white wire should be connected to the start/stop off position running to the CDI?

The black and white wire from battery runs straight to the regulator and also from CDI to ignition coil...on the ignition coil it's basically just an earth wire to the frame is that right?? Can't remember how it was attached originally when I took it off!!

Not running starter button and the starter motor has been removed...any help appreciated!


Calvert86

This is not a CDI it is a electronic ignition, it needs a 12 power supply to work so you will need a battery. the orange white wire is the 12v + supply to the ignition. Yep you can run straight from the red wire to the orange but will still need a battery some where in the circuit, connect it to the red wire side of the switch. the black white is earth on Suzuki both the coil body and the ignition unit will need to be earthed and connected to the frame as well to completed the high tension side of the ignition coil and connected to the negative side of the battery, and don't forget to earth the reg as well if you are going to run the charging circuit.

Calvert86
19th September 2015, 23:32
Thanks for this info! So I will remove the orange wire completely and take the red wire straight to the kill switch off position? Then connect the Orange and White wire to the on position which then leads back to the electronic ignition.

I'll join the battery to the red wire running between the kill switch and the regulator.
I still have the original battery so will test that and find somewhere to stow it...how small a battery could you actually go on this type of system?

Thanks again


Calvert86

spanner spinner
20th September 2015, 14:27
Thanks for this info! So I will remove the orange wire completely and take the red wire straight to the kill switch off position? Then connect the Orange and White wire to the on position which then leads back to the electronic ignition.

I'll join the battery to the red wire running between the kill switch and the regulator.
I still have the original battery so will test that and find somewhere to stow it...how small a battery could you actually go on this type of system?

Thanks again


Calvert86

If you keep the charging system all you need is enough current to for start up a YTX4L-bs will do. I take it you are going to use the original kill switch if so red wire to the input of the kill switch (orange black wire) output to ignition unit orange white to orange white wire. The other option is to remove the charging circuit and just run a battery, have done this in the past for race bikes you will need a slightly larger battery extra batteries and a way of charging them on race day. you will need to test to find out how long they will last but will have less drag on the engine, might get 1/10 HP gain.

Calvert86
20th September 2015, 15:54
If you keep the charging system all you need is enough current to for start up a YTX4L-bs will do. I take it you are going to use the original kill switch if so red wire to the input of the kill switch (orange black wire) output to ignition unit orange white to orange white wire. The other option is to remove the charging circuit and just run a battery, have done this in the past for race bikes you will need a slightly larger battery extra batteries and a way of charging them on race day. you will need to test to find out how long they will last but will have less drag on the engine, might get 1/10 HP gain.

Thanks for this! Much clearer now!! Using a cheap aftermarket kill switch to clean up the bars but same principle! Will keep the charging circuit in for now just for ease but may look to remove this later!


Calvert86