Kibblewhite valves?

[Voltaire]

Anyone used these?

Looking at replacing the stock ones on my R100 Race Bike with lighter valves and titanium retainer for some peace of mind when running to 7500 8000 rpm

http://valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com/viewitems/-components-bmw-5-6-7-r80-r90-r100-br-1970-to-1995/black-diamond-valves-for-bmw-5-motorcycle?

(Tosser comments will be sent to PD where they belong and red rep given)

[tri boy]

They have earned a good reputation in thumpers. FWIW

[Kickaha]

The GSXR1000 we run in the sidecar has got them in and it's been given a hammering for the last few years with zero problems

[nodrog]

beemers don't blow up.

[Kickaha]

beemers don't blow up.

They fucking do with you riding them :thud:

[nodrog]

They fucking do with you riding them :thud:

that's cos I cant ride.

[Grumph]

They're very good - use them.

I've been caught trying to do odd size stainless valves and using blanks. Most aftermarket stainless stuff comes in 3 grades - and for an aircooled race motor you want the very top grade. Unfortunately some brands I won't name here are very poor at labelling the grades and you don't always get what it's supposed to be....Kibblewhite are exactly as described in my experience.

[Voltaire]

I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?

[sidecar bob]

I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?

Go hard, I'm still going to beat you on a stock one.:yes:
I fixed my concerns about over revving stock parts, I smashed my tachometer to pieces in a massive crash & now I wouldn't have a clue what it revs to.

[nodrog]

I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?

Na given up in that idea, apparently you aren't allowed to run a reliable 46 year old stock engine.

You can just get some pushrods made, I have aluminium ones which have just been made with ali tube and had some generic ends press fitted. Ive only managed to bend one so far.

P.S. I weighed one against a standard old style pre 75 pushrod, and the difference wasn't even worth writing down, so I didn't, hence I cant remember what it was.

[Grumph]

I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?

I've been lightening rockers and making lightweight pushrods for years...it's not hard.
Why beehive springs ? Every time i've gone away from normal good quality parallel wind ones, I've had trouble.....
Edit - long time since i've had a BM bike engine on the bench, what dia are the pushrod ball ends ? I've got a couple of form tools here for doing alloy tips....

[swarfie]

I've been lightening rockers and making lightweight pushrods for years...it's not hard.
Why beehive springs ?.

These "modern" racers seem to think they're all the rage.....apparently.:laugh:

[nodrog]

....
Edit - long time since i've had a BM bike engine on the bench, what dia are the pushrod ball ends ? I've got a couple of form tools here for doing alloy tips....

8.65mm, and I didn't even have to google that.

[nodrog]

.....

P.S. I weighed one against a standard old style pre 75 pushrod, and the difference wasn't even worth writing down, so I didn't, hence I cant remember what it was.

as it turns out I have far too much old shitter parts lying around, just found 2 push rods while looking for some sandpaper, 1 aluminium one and 1 pre 75 one.

[Grumph]

Well I don't have a form tool for that orphan size...It looks as though the OD of both rods is 10mm ?
Personally I've never used less than 12mm OD alloy tube for pushrods. If you're going light gauge, you've got to go up in OD to keep them stiff in my experience.

Best example was the Goggomobile TQ engine - very BM like and with pushrods about 15 inches long...
With springs and cam good enough - and supercharged - the std pushrods flexed enough that the timing figures when measured on the bench were all over the place. Went to 1/2in OD 16g alloy tube and it flew...Till it blew a cylinder off.

Nev - ever see valve springs with oval wire ? The kit for the first watercooled GSXR 750 used them. Absolute POS. A very short lived fashion.

[Kickaha]

long time since i've had a BM bike engine on the bench

I can fix that for you

[Grumph]

I can fix that for you

Pretty strong talk from a man who's got a full season of chair racing planned.....

Last 3 Bm's were a R100S kevin McCleary had pulled apart for the owner - and never put back, a late cammer for Adrian walker - and an Isetta motor...
Actually the Isetta is a big bored 250, whoopdedo...

[Voltaire]

Go hard, I'm still going to beat you on a stock one.:yes:
I fixed my concerns about over revving stock parts, I smashed my tachometer to pieces in a massive crash & now I wouldn't have a clue what it revs to.

Most likely, I'd better watch those warm up laps at Taupo as the tacho is the newest part on mine.

You could have hammered it back together and won the championship last year, there was no plastic cup only a certificate.


These "modern" racers seem to think they're all the rage.....apparently.:laugh:

I might send the ECU off to VW for flashing ( that's "modern" talk for staking, and smacking with a mallet.:innocent:

[sidecar bob]

You could have hammered it back together and won the championship last year, there was no plastic cup only a certificate.
:

I still got one that said third, & I wrote my bike off three meetings before the end of the season.

[TLDV8]

I have Kibblewhite valves etc in a few bikes including a Norton 750 head that Jim Comstock reworked.
Maybe the question is are you going to simply replace the valves or use the Kibblewhite guides also that normally come in two material options to suit the valves and the stem coating.
The longer wearing of the two (guides) need some specialised tooling as far as setting the clearance, there might be something relating to that on the Access Norton site.
You would be hard pressed to find a better valve given their reasonable cost.

[Voltaire]

I have Kibblewhite valves etc in a few bikes including a Norton 750 head that Jim Comstock reworked.
Maybe the question is are you going to simply replace the valves or use the Kibblewhite guides also that normally come in two material options to suit the valves and the stem coating.
The longer wearing of the two (guides) need some specialised tooling as far as setting the clearance, there might be something relating to that on the Access Norton site.
You would be hard pressed to find a better valve given their reasonable cost.

Was hoping to just get the K liner replaced so as not to disturb the original guide. I didn't realise the valves/guides were a set as such. Access Norton sure is a good source of engineering information.:2thumbsup