R1: new bike break in?

[d3v3agl3]

Hey guys, new to the site. I have a question which has probably been gone over too many times... I've just bought a new R1 and am wanting to know what fellow riders have done with their new bikes during the engine break in, follow owners manual or otherwise, do's and donts? 1600km seems like a fair bit of a break in period.. Thanks in advance

[AllanB]

Ah the old how to break-in my new engine question.

1600 - my new Ducati has a break-in regime in the owners manual for 2500 kms! See 1600 is not too bad. :-)


Main advise I'll give is don't lug it around in a tall gear, you'll be better off letting it rev a bit than slugging the engine along trying to keep it under XX rpm. Also a variation in revs is desirable as opposed to a constant droning along the highway in top gear.


You are getting used to the bike as well so a joint break-in is a good way to go.

Nice ride - enjoy.

[carburator]

Hey guys, new to the site. I have a question which has probably been gone over too many times... I've just bought a new R1 and am wanting to know what fellow riders have done with their new bikes during the engine break in, follow owners manual or otherwise, do's and donts? 1600km seems like a fair bit of a break in period.. Thanks in advance

read the manual, the r1 has a set break in period its helpful for the engine to bed in.
however on another note on the race engines we used to build and throw on the dyno
got no mercy once the fuel air ratio was setup..

[nodrog]

don't let it idle for too long , ride it nicely until its up to temp, then thrash it.

[jonbuoy]

Some people will tell you camshafts, followers and gears need a few thousand miles on them to polish and match wear faces.

Others will say you only have the first few hundred miles to load up the motor (not lugging) to get the rings to seat properly.

I'm with the seat the rings properly camp. I wouldn't baby or lug a new engine. Being a litre bike I would be more concerned with getting enough load on the engine - not sure how much time you will ever spend at full throttle before you run out of road. Avoid heavy traffic and give it plenty of heat cycles. My 10c.

[mulletman]

After you've done which ever above posts id dump the oil n filter at about 500kms or less and get fresh stuff in.

[Mike.Gayner]

Your bike came with an owners manual. This was put together with the help of the engineers who designed it. Any reason for not just following that?

[Crasherfromwayback]

don't let it idle for too long , ride it nicely until its up to temp, then thrash it.

100% what this perv says.

[Pornolio]

Normally the only time someone asks this question, is when they stumbled across the motoman break-in method.

Its your money and your bike, ultimately you can do whatever you want with it... The people that designed and built your engine, wrote the documentation and break-in procedure for a good reason. Its most definitely in their best interest supplying you with a product that wont blow up in a months time because you followed their recommendations.

Things I did when breaking in my past motorcycles :

- Let it warm up properly in the morning when its cold, before riding off
- Stick to the : "keep it below x - rpm for the first 600 / 800 km's before pushing it slightly harder"
- Avoid keeping it on long straight roads on a constant RPM for prolonged periods of time... go read up on glazing of cylinder walls, you dont want that.
- Short bursts of power often is highly recommended... like someone mentioned earlier, ensure there is load on the engine as much as possible.
- When they say dont thrash it, it doesn't mean keeping it below 3000 rpm and treating it like a fragile newborn... Giving it some throttle to accelerate hard for short periods of time, below the recommended RPM limit is what you should aim for

At the end of the day, decide if you would trust the advice of a engineer that studied many years to work in a motorcycle manufacturer building plant, vs a guy that has a website that looks like it was designed by a 3 year old child, and looks like a backyard mechanic from some ghetto.

On the other hand... you are taking advice from the kiwibiker forums, that alone is a risk on its own :devil2:

[BMWST?]

Normally the only time someone asks this question, is when they stumbled across the motoman break-in method.

Its your money and your bike, ultimately you can do whatever you want with it... The people that designed and built your engine, wrote the documentation and break-in procedure for a good reason. Its most definitely in their best interest supplying you with a product that wont blow up in a months time because you followed their recommendations.

Things I did when breaking in my past motorcycles :

- Let it warm up properly in the morning when its cold, before riding off
- Stick to the : "keep it below x - rpm for the first 600 / 800 km's before pushing it slightly harder"
- Avoid keeping it on long straight roads on a constant RPM for prolonged periods of time... go read up on glazing of cylinder walls, you dont want that.
- Short bursts of power often is highly recommended... like someone mentioned earlier, ensure there is load on the engine as much as possible.
- When they say dont thrash it, it doesn't mean keeping it below 3000 rpm and treating it like a fragile newborn... Giving it some throttle to accelerate hard for short periods of time, below the recommended RPM limit is what you should aim for

At the end of the day, decide if you would trust the advice of a engineer that studied many years to work in a motorcycle manufacturer building plant, vs a guy that has a website that looks like it was designed by a 3 year old child, and looks like a backyard mechanic from some ghetto.

On the other hand... you are taking advice from the kiwibiker forums, that alone is a risk on its own :devil2:
this....except for the warm up Just ride of gently.Give it some throttle and revs as soon as 500 ks..You need to give it lots of throttle soon ish too,just in short bursts...be careful the first few times you try this :)

[nodrog]

- Let it warm up properly in the morning when its cold, before riding off

... go read up on glazing of cylinder walls, you dont want that.

- ensure there is load on the engine as much as possible.



make up your mind.

[d3v3agl3]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciate it. In response to a few yes I do have an owners manual that I have read and intend on following, just looking for added tips from experience. I.e I've been asked on a trip from chch to Greymouth over labour weekend - too soon or will it be fine given I vary rpm? OM states avoid prolonged operation above 6900rpm, I take this as don't ride it above this range but ok to accelerate past within reason obviously staying well away from red line, like 9-10k on occasion and letting off and dropping below 6900k, or should I literally stay below the stated rpm? And yes have seen the motorman thread and would in no way follow it to a T.

[Grumph]

Your bike came with an owners manual. This was put together with the help of the engineers who designed it. Any reason for not just following that?

1/ It's primarily designed to avoid insurance liability.
2/ It's dumbed down for the worst consumers they'll find (probably Americans...)
3/ It's only their opinion of how their product should be used
4/ This is KB, no one follows manufacturers instructions....

Right, back to building a Laverda gearbox which will change gears reliably - unlike the original designers intentions....

[EJK]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciate it. In response to a few yes I do have an owners manual that I have read and intend on following, just looking for added tips from experience. I.e I've been asked on a trip from chch to Greymouth over labour weekend - too soon or will it be fine given I vary rpm? OM states avoid prolonged operation above 6900rpm, I take this as don't ride it above this range but ok to accelerate past within reason obviously staying well away from red line, like 9-10k on occasion and letting off and dropping below 6900k, or should I literally stay below the stated rpm? And yes have seen the motorman thread and would in no way follow it to a T.

Have you ridden a bike before?

R1 is a great learners bike you'll have fun.

[d3v3agl3]

Have you ridden a bike before?

R1 is a great learners bike you'll have fun.

Lol cheers... Yes had my fair share over the years including an r1. First new bike though, so probably being a bit paranoid after being hit with the whole brake her in before riding as you would thing :)

[EJK]

Lol cheers... Yes had my fair share over the years including an r1. First new bike though, so probably being a bit paranoid after being hit with the whole brake her in before riding as you would thing :)

Just taking the piss yo. Looks like you are in Christchurch, eh? If ya see a fatty on a bleck S1000RR giz a wave.

See you on the road.

[d3v3agl3]

Just taking the piss yo. Looks like you are in Christchurch, eh? If ya see a fatty on a bleck S1000RR giz a wave.

See you on the road.

Nice bike ;) cheers man will do..

[F5 Dave]

So the important questions really are whilst running in, do you stand it off the throttle or clutch it up? Hmm, Drew will be along shortly.

[tigertim20]

5 consecutive trackdays.
then switch in new fluids and tyres.

Done

[Shaun Harris]

don't let it idle for too long , ride it nicely until its up to temp, then thrash it.


I always used a low quality ( As such) oil also, to allow rings to bed better.

[nodrog]

I always used a low quality ( As such) oil also, to allow rings to bed better.

what the fuck has happened to your name?

[AllanB]

I always used a low quality ( As such) oil also, to allow rings to bed better.

It's got what the factory put it in in Japan...........

[Grumph]

It's got what the factory put it in in Japan...........

Really ? Are they shipping them wet nowadays ?

[TheDemonLord]

Ride it in first at all times, including lots of open road and motorway riding (to let all the other gears have time to bed in)

[F5 Dave]

Yeah but the first 100k has to be done in neutral.

[Ender EnZed]

I've been asked on a trip from chch to Greymouth over labour weekend - too soon or will it be fine given I vary rpm? OM states avoid prolonged operation above 6900rpm

Don't see any reason not to give it a go. Even if you keep below 6900 rpm you're only limited to 160km/h ish in top gear.

[Shaun Harris]

what the fuck has happened to your name?



lol, since I do not operate MD any more, thought I would pop back to my own name

[Shaun Harris]

It's got what the factory put it in in Japan...........

Personally, I always dumped that asap, and used a known running in oil as such. My Opinion is the factory oil is GOOD, but does not allow the motor to bed in as good as it poss can for peak performance.

[pritch]

What's with all this fucking breaking in? It's running in FFS. And fuck auto correct too. :brick:

[Drew]

So the important questions really are whilst running in, do you stand it off the throttle or clutch it up? Hmm, Drew will be along shortly.Not an easy decision on a cross plane R1. I wasn't a fan of the power delivery when I rode one, was difficult to properly modulate the throttle for a smooth wheelie. Frenchy is the man to ask, he's got one and has always been a better wheelie merchant than I.


Personally, I always dumped that asap, and used a known running in oil as such. My Opinion is the factory oil is GOOD, but does not allow the motor to bed in as good as it poss can for peak performance.
I trust modern machining to be really fucking close, and would do whatever possible to keep the coating on my aluminium bores as thick as possible.

[Pornolio]

Not an easy decision on a cross plane R1. I wasn't a fan of the power delivery when I rode one, was difficult to properly modulate the throttle for a smooth wheelie. Frenchy is the man to ask, he's got one and has always been a better wheelie merchant than I.

I have always wondered how those bikes are for wheelies... considering the power delivery of that cross-plane engine (and additional weight penalty)... Love the sound they make though, especially if they have some open pipes like a set of Akro's. From reading up, these yamahas really come alive once you start slapping a full system on, and flash the ECU.

I still rate the GSXR as the mother of all badboy bikes when it comes to backwheel antics :Police:

[Erelyes]

- Let it warm up properly in the morning when its cold, before riding off

Bugger that. The bike shouldn't need any more than a few seconds after start-up before you ride away. I find the idea 'let it sit there running needlessly to extend engine life' to be rather counterproductive.

Be it for a bike with 5kms or 50,000.

Other than that, find a hilly, windy road a short distance from you. A loop course would be ideal. Ride 'normally' there while the bike warms up. Ride up the hill, giving the bike some decent load in a variety of RPMS, then ride down, making sure to use as much engine braking as you can, at a variety of RPMs. Rinse and repeat.

Or take it to the track.

[Pornolio]

Bugger that. The bike shouldn't need any more than a few seconds after start-up before you ride away. I find the idea 'let it sit there running needlessly to extend engine life' to be rather counterproductive.

No-one is saying let it idle for hours before riding off... Not sure where you gained that idea from.
Its well documented on many sites + books + owners manuals that its highly recommended to warm up your engine to operating temperature levels first, to also allow your oil to reach all moving parts of the engine before riding off. On a new tight motorcycle engine, I would even emphasize the importance more. Most motorcycles will only take a min or two to get out of the "cold" operating zone...

I agree with you on the engine braking comment...

Like I mentioned, this discussion will always have two camps...

[F5 Dave]

Personally I've always been in favour of off the throttle which favours two strokes, haven't tried to seriously wheelie a thou, . . . Well not a four. Triples and twins still throttle up.

[carburator]

Bugger that. The bike shouldn't need any more than a few seconds after start-up before you ride away. I find the idea 'let it sit there running needlessly to extend engine life' to be rather counterproductive.

Be it for a bike with 5kms or 50,000.

Other than that, find a hilly, windy road a short distance from you. A loop course would be ideal. Ride 'normally' there while the bike warms up. Ride up the hill, giving the bike some decent load in a variety of RPMS, then ride down, making sure to use as much engine braking as you can, at a variety of RPMs. Rinse and repeat.

Or take it to the track.

from the owner of a r1, its got a cold engine map till it warms up and then once it it hits about 50degrees it changes maps
and certainly a change of tone and idle..

soap tests prove better engine life if warmed up and also warmed down ( ie turbo timers on the big motors )

[AllanB]

on a new motor I don't let it idle on warm-up for long. How long does it take to get your jacket, helmet and gloves on - couple mins? Then just ride gently until it is up to temp (most importantly get some heat in the tyres too). Best way to get a even warm-up heat throughout the engine not the more isolated heat build-up of long static idle.

[Drew]

I still rate the GSXR as the mother of all badboy bikes when it comes to backwheel antics :Police:

I learned to wheelie on a Gixxer thou. But the new Superduke makes them seem flacid I'm told.

[WNJ]

I learned to wheelie on a Gixxer thou. But the new Superduke makes them seem flacid I'm told.

I learnt on a TLS great for wheelies:Punk:

[TheDemonLord]

I once accidentally lifted the front of my 'Busa - it was probably only a couple of inches off the ground - but I still felt cool (after I finished shatting myself as the steering went light...)

[d3v3agl3]

I have always wondered how those bikes are for wheelies... considering the power delivery of that cross-plane engine (and additional weight penalty)... Love the sound they make though, especially if they have some open pipes like a set of Akro's. From reading up, these yamahas really come alive once you start slapping a full system on, and flash the ECU.

I still rate the GSXR as the mother of all badboy bikes when it comes to backwheel antics :Police:

Have been on a few cross plane r1's and enjoyed every second, hence buying one. Great for wheelies, no clutch no throttle chopping just roll on and keep her there through the gears, they're rather smooth after exhaust and flash and a hell of a lot of fun :)

[Drew]

Have been on a few cross plane r1's and enjoyed every second, hence buying one. Great for wheelies, no clutch no throttle chopping just roll on and keep her there through the gears, they're rather smooth after exhaust and flash and a hell of a lot of fun :)

We might be talking about different kinds of wheelies. Hoist, balance, trundle along in the one cog at a constant speed. That's what you wanna aim for. 190ks on the back wheel feels cool, but it's not advised.

[d3v3agl3]

We might be talking about different kinds of wheelies. Hoist, balance, trundle along in the one cog at a constant speed. That's what you wanna aim for. 190ks on the back wheel feels cool, but it's not advised.

They're a bit choppy for that stock from my experience, or it could be what I was used to at the time that made the difference (gsxr1000), but after the exhaust and flash yes they're good for holding up in the same gear at a constant too. Couldn't agree more on the cool but not advised part though, one of those do not try this at home kind of things.

[Crasherfromwayback]

I trust modern machining to be really fucking close, and would do whatever possible to keep the coating on my aluminium bores as thick as possible.

The coatings they use are incredibly thin and tough as shit. Poor oil won't fuck em.

[Shaun Harris]

The coatings they use are incredibly thin and tough as shit. Poor oil won't fuck em.


Bang on. The high quality oil they come with, does not let the Ring itself bed in as well as it could, hence I always used running in oil, 3 lots at 500 km max per change. All I ever did with new motors was 3 Full heat cycles NEVER letting the bike idle, always open and closing throttle till fan kicks in, then shut her down for a couple of hours to 100% cool down, then repeat till done 3 times. After that it was to just shy of red line in every gear for the 3 running in oil changes, I just did them on the side of the road, having a back pack on with 2 tubs of oil and 2 x oil filters and tools. Taranaki to Taupo to Ratahi to wanganui and back to New Plymouth, best roads in the country for running a bike in and riding in general for run