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mynemesis
13th October 2015, 11:35
If I was to buy a Bandit from Mt. Maunganui. Where would be a good place to have it pre purchasae inspected? and how much is one of those anyway?

Or being a bandit with less than 50k on the clock, do you think the basic buyer check on arrival would be enough? Just do the usual check for engine rattles, clutch check, headstock bearings, fork seals, swing arm bearings, wheel bearings, smoke, etc.

Thanks for help, advise.....or incoming smart arse remarks.

(I think I'm starting to get used to this place):weird:

Banditbandit
13th October 2015, 12:15
Ask some nice person (there are a few here) in Tauranga/The Mount if they will go check it out for you ...

nodrog
13th October 2015, 12:20
Is it on tard me?

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 13:10
Ask some nice person (there are a few here) in Tauranga/The Mount if they will go check it out for you ...

Thanks for the advise Bandit. Just short of someone "nice" and experienced mechanically. My thoughts also were that a pre purchase would include a compression test. Or is that not likely to be necessary?

Yes on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=963523892

Would likely replace rear shock and front springs, so suspension isn't a biggie. Thinking I might take a punt on this if the other one I'm looking at doesn't eventuate.

Maha
13th October 2015, 13:36
Starting price of $4K what would you be looking to pay to call it yours?

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 13:41
Starting price of $4K what would you be looking to pay to call it yours?

final price $4k. He will end now if I commit I want it. But I just gonna give the other one I'm looking at a day to come back to me before I commit. The other one is minta and only has 3,000km. so I'm willing to risk forgoing a proper inspection on that one if I can get it for the price I want.

I think the low km one is waiting a while for a better offer unfortunately so I risk losing both if I don't act soon.

this one though seem like a good cheap example (at least by trademe standards that is) and leaves me some change to buy toys like exhaust, springs, lines, etc. the other is a rare example of a super low k well cared for stock K5. I'll have no money left if I buy it, but being almost new, I would be willing to grow that one slowly, so to speak.

nodrog
13th October 2015, 14:03
Yes on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=963523892.

thanks for that, I've been looking for a good bandit.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 14:06
thanks for that, I've been looking for a good bandit.

enjoy! Hope you make the most of it. Glad I could help you get past the listings search feature on trademe:doh:

Banditbandit
13th October 2015, 14:48
Thanks for the advise Bandit. Just short of someone "nice" and experienced mechanically. My thoughts also were that a pre purchase would include a compression test. Or is that not likely to be necessary?

Yes on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=963523892

Would likely replace rear shock and front springs, so suspension isn't a biggie. Thinking I might take a punt on this if the other one I'm looking at doesn't eventuate.

A compression test is a bit of a hassle - you'd have to take the tank off so you could pull each plug and test each pot ..not sure it is necessary - I haven't run a compression test on a bike I've biought since I stopped owning british ...

The front suspension is not as necessary to change as the rear - I have a 1250 and would change the rear shock but I've just tightened up the front a click or two and that is fine ..

I put braided lines on both my Bandits - that improved the braking - as did putting wave discs on my 650 ... if you put on braided lines make sure you have two lines coming off the master cylinder. Suzuki usually drop one line to the right hand slave and then a loop over the guard to the left hand slave. On my 1250 you could feel the difference on the disc where the disc met the mounts - there was more brake pressure on trhe right hand disc before I put on the braided lines ... tho' it looks like on the grey bandit the lines split at the bottom of the triple tree .. a better set up ...

The pipe on that bandit does not look standard (I don't remember the standard ones coming with the wrap-around clamp - they usually have lugs on the can that bolt to the rear footpeg holders.)

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 14:56
Thanks bandit. I'll no doubt be going over all this again soon. Just need to actually get one now. Getting very impatient at this point.

pritch
13th October 2015, 15:26
Best to be patient. Impatient can cost money.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 15:28
Best to be patient. Impatient can cost money.

Yeah I know you're right..... just itching to get back out there is all. That and having cash burning a hole in my pocket too.

Banditbandit
13th October 2015, 16:25
Yeah - I know the feeling - luckily I've always had more than one running bike - so waiting for a new one has never left me rideless ..

nzspokes
13th October 2015, 17:53
A compression test is a bit of a hassle - you'd have to take the tank off so you could pull each plug and test each pot ..not sure it is necessary - I haven't run a compression test on a bike I've biought since I stopped owning british ...

The front suspension is not as necessary to change as the rear - I have a 1250 and would change the rear shock but I've just tightened up the front a click or two and that is fine ..

I put braided lines on both my Bandits - that improved the braking - as did putting wave discs on my 650 ... if you put on braided lines make sure you have two lines coming off the master cylinder. Suzuki usually drop one line to the right hand slave and then a loop over the guard to the left hand slave. On my 1250 you could feel the difference on the disc where the disc met the mounts - there was more brake pressure on trhe right hand disc before I put on the braided lines ... tho' it looks like on the grey bandit the lines split at the bottom of the triple tree .. a better set up ...

The pipe on that bandit does not look standard (I don't remember the standard ones coming with the wrap-around clamp - they usually have lugs on the can that bolt to the rear footpeg holders.)

Stock fork on them is not well set up. Few shims moved about and some springs will be a revelation.

AllanB
13th October 2015, 17:57
It's not far from Aucky - you have transport? Go have a perve yourself.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 18:00
Stock fork on them is not well set up. Few shims moved about and some springs will be a revelation.

yeah thats what I read recently too.

Still wondering if it's better to get the almost new, fully stock bike and ride it with the stock suspension, heavy pipe and squishy brakes for a year. OR get the cheaper 50,000km example that I can chuck most things on to straight away?

Fuck it, I'll buy the cheap hayabusa in Palmerston North :facepalm:

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 18:05
It's not far from Aucky - you have transport? Go have a perve yourself.

Shut up you.......with your simple logic and shit!!!

sidecar bob
13th October 2015, 18:36
It's not far from Aucky - you have transport? Go have a perve yourself.

Poor cunt would have to go south of Wiri, you know they don't like doing that, there's dragons & trolls & other scary stuff down past there.

AllanB
13th October 2015, 18:42
Poor cunt would have to go south of Wiri, you know they don't like doing that, there's dragons & trolls & other scary stuff down past there.

Arrrr but there be bargains to be had.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 18:46
Poor cunt would have to go south of Wiri, you know they don't like doing that, there's dragons & trolls & other scary stuff down past there.

admittedly I do have a fear of going south of the bombays. But thats only because of all the orks between here and Wellington.

Didn't realise this country had flyover states too when I moved here:bleh:

AllanB
13th October 2015, 18:49
Maybe the Government should charge a tax (toll) for all Aucklanders leaving Auckland.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 18:56
there is a toll. A massive one.......we're not in Auckland anymore!

AllanB
13th October 2015, 18:59
there is a toll. A massive one.......we're not in Auckland anymore!

Quick - change your KB location. Suddenly heaps of KB readers will want to help you. Bawahahhhhh

PS - get a Hornet, the Bandit is it's fat sister ......

sidecar bob
13th October 2015, 19:16
Arrrr but there be bargains to be had.

I've found quite the opposite. Eveyone in Auckland wants to be seen driving later stuff than further south & it loses its value accordingly.
Stuff can be hauled further south & a buck can be made.

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 19:18
Quick - change your KB location. Suddenly heaps of KB readers will want to help you. Bawahahhhhh

PS - get a Hornet, the Bandit is it's fat sister ......

Come on guys.....!? I'm just kidding, I love outer New Zealand. I go to my batch in the Coromandel every summer for gods sake! :confused:



I can't help it, sorry. It's like a form of pomme / jaffa tosser tourettes :sick:

AllanB
13th October 2015, 21:48
How much cheaper is the 50,000 km one? You'll end up throwing some thousands on it if you are suspending with something decent (no point if it is not).

If looking for a slip on can - google Fuel exhausts - English made and (exchange rate dependent) well priced.

Meh - did it for you. http://www.fuelexhausts.com/exhausts/bike-and-range/suzuki/gsx1250fa-2010

mynemesis
13th October 2015, 21:54
How much cheaper is the 50,000 km one? You'll end up throwing some thousands on it if you are suspending with something decent (no point if it is not).

If looking for a slip on can - google Fuel exhausts - English made and (exchange rate dependent) well priced.

Meh - did it for you. http://www.fuelexhausts.com/exhausts/bike-and-range/suzuki/gsx1250fa-2010

Thanks AllanB. I'll check those out next week.........After I pick up my mint condition K5 Bandit with just 3100 km on the clocks:woohoo:


Figure this is my first "BIG" bike so nothing wrong with getting used to it first before starting the upgrade procedure. Although that standard, ugly, heavy and ridiculously quiet exhaust has to go:facepalm: It's flipping enormous!

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 05:37
https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18_20_58&products_id=110

You will need to rejet. Easy to do and will find power.

Mike.Gayner
14th October 2015, 06:43
I have a Dan Moto. Very cheap, surprisingly decent quality, very loud.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PCfZWPZWyk

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 07:25
Thanks. Yeah I think I was looking at these too the other day.

Who do I see (and what sort of money will it cost) to have the carbs re-tuned properly once it has a new exhaust?

I read about some people having theirs dyno tuned, but suspect that is a little pricey!?

Banditbandit
14th October 2015, 09:05
yeah thats what I read recently too.

Still wondering if it's better to get the almost new, fully stock bike and ride it with the stock suspension, heavy pipe and squishy brakes for a year. OR get the cheaper 50,000km example that I can chuck most things on to straight away?

Fuck it, I'll buy the cheap hayabusa in Palmerston North :facepalm:


The bandits are not that bad ... if you want a spot-on handling sports bike buy one of those ... Bandits are not that ..

I bought a stock 1250 a rode it for a while before I started to change things - mostly braided lines (the brakes are Ok and saved me from hitting a couple of idiot cagers before I added the braided lines) and I tighten up the front forks. I replaced the can with a carbon-fibre one from Pomlandia ... the standard one is six and a half kilos !!! hung off one side of the bike ...

I did the same on the 650 -with the addition of Wave front discs, 'cause I chuck that one around more than the big bandit

Apart from that - I've cloked up 67,000 klicks in six years on the 1250 and 62,000klicks in 8 years on the little one ... I love them and would replace them with similar TNABs ... they do everything I want - and frequently leave sprotsbike riders in my dust ... good for very long trips ... I'ver seen 217 klicks on the clock on the little one and at 245 on the clock the big one was still accelerating wen I shut it down for a corner ...


The most fun bikes I have ever owned ... Yeah - I know - all bandit oweners say that .. maybe because it's true ..

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 09:11
Thanks. Yeah I think I was looking at these too the other day.

Who do I see (and what sort of money will it cost) to have the carbs re-tuned properly once it has a new exhaust?

I read about some people having theirs dyno tuned, but suspect that is a little pricey!?
About $40 worth of jets and a couple of hours.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 09:19
40bux and couple hours you say!? Sounds good!

No don't want a spot -on sports bike. Well yeah I do, but if I got one, it would have to be a well used one and I don't want THAT!

Should be heading down to New Plymouth tomorrow to collect my new K5. Did I already mention it's only done 3000km!? Owned by a retired gentleman that fitted a massive giving front touring screen.

So hyped to go get it. I bet it pisses down tomorrow though!

Banditbandit
14th October 2015, 13:03
40bux and couple hours you say!? Sounds good!

No don't want a spot -on sports bike. Well yeah I do, but if I got one, it would have to be a well used one and I don't want THAT!

Should be heading down to New Plymouth tomorrow to collect my new K5. Did I already mention it's only done 3000km!? Owned by a retired gentleman that fitted a massive giving front touring screen.

So hyped to go get it. I bet it pisses down tomorrow though!

have fun on it ..

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 13:10
That's what it's for mate. Hope to see you on the road on it sometime. Now that I have something I can properly get around on now. And the roads round your way are good from driving memory.

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 20:03
40bux and couple hours you say!? Sounds good!

!

Right. Contact Alec from this site, http://www.smebike.info/ He has the jets. He is in Whitford.

You need 110 mains and 17.5 idles. Take out the slides from the top and set the needles 1 clip down. Cut the diaphram springs 25mm shorter. Refit. Drop the float bowls and fit the new jets. Set the float valves to 13mm. Turn the idle mixture screws to 3.75 turns out. Then remove the airbox cover and dril a 1.5" hole in it. Leave the stock airfilter in. K&N is much harder to tune. All this will find you about 15hp and a much fatter mid range.

AllanB
14th October 2015, 21:10
Right. Contact Alec from this site, http://www.smebike.info/ He has the jets. He is in Whitford.

You need 110 mains and 17.5 idles. Take out the slides from the top and set the needles 1 clip down. Cut the diaphram springs 25mm shorter. Refit. Drop the float bowls and fit the new jets. Set the float valves to 13mm. Turn the idle mixture screws to 3.75 turns out. Then remove the airbox cover and dril a 1.5" hole in it. Leave the stock airfilter in. K&N is much harder to tune. All this will find you about 15hp and a much fatter mid range.

Presumably after dumping the stock anchor of a muffler?

Neptune in NZ make very nice cans too.

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 21:15
Presumably after dumping the stock anchor of a muffler?

Neptune in NZ make very nice cans too.

Yeah with the stock pipe on it will improve but not as much and run a smidge rich. But they are stupidly lean from the factory. If I was going to keep the stock pipe I would just go up a size in idles and lift the needle 1 clip.

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 21:25
Right. Contact Alec from this site, http://www.smebike.info/ He has the jets. He is in Whitford.

You need 110 mains and 17.5 idles. Take out the slides from the top and set the needles 1 clip down. Cut the diaphram springs 25mm shorter. Refit. Drop the float bowls and fit the new jets. Set the float valves to 13mm. Turn the idle mixture screws to 3.75 turns out. Then remove the airbox cover and dril a 1.5" hole in it. Leave the stock airfilter in. K&N is much harder to tune. All this will find you about 15hp and a much fatter mid range.

Thank you for the tutorial Spokes. I'll reference that in the not too distant future. I haven't played with carbs in bloody years but a few youtube tutorials and plenty of HD pics along the way and it should be a fun project.

Had a look at those danmoto cans too. Not a bad sound and plenty cheap, so that might be on the credit card soon.

Shorter dog bones, Busa rear shock, longer low bars, tail tidy and on and on it begins. :sweatdrop

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 21:36
Busa rear shock is a must if 2 up. Its not perfect but much better than stock. And you will be able to sell the low ks stock for more than a Busa one.

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 21:58
Busa rear shock is a must if 2 up. Its not perfect but much better than stock. And you will be able to sell the low ks stock for more than a Busa one.

Yeah I heard similar. Being a fat ass I qualify as 2 up riding all the time.

Whats a better swap in? I can't afford a brand new after market one so been looking for straight swap in units from other bikes.

nzspokes
14th October 2015, 22:01
Yeah I heard similar. Being a fat ass I qualify as 2 up riding all the time.

Whats a better swap in? I can't afford a brand new after market one so been looking for straight swap in units from other bikes.

Busa one is the most common and best suited to well feed riders.

mynemesis
14th October 2015, 22:06
Busa one is the most common and best suited to well feed riders.

haha "well fed" I like that. I didn't know you were so tactful?

Banditbandit
15th October 2015, 13:41
Yeah I heard similar. Being a fat ass I qualify as 2 up riding all the time.

Whats a better swap in? I can't afford a brand new after market one so been looking for straight swap in units from other bikes.

Wreckers like these guys can be good for the parts ...

http://www.gpmotorcyclewreckers.co.nz/suzuki.shtml

mynemesis
15th October 2015, 19:15
thanks again Bandit. I'll see if they can help me?

Heres my new baby in mint condition, fresh before my ride back from NP. It was so new and un-abused that it still had some of the rubber flaps left on the tyres from the molding process,

http://rippedtees.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/417821395.jpg

http://rippedtees.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/417820493.jpg

AllanB
15th October 2015, 21:19
Looks absolutely mint. Not even a yellowed header. Better give it a good thrashing to bed it in properly ;)

I suspect you may be on original tyres? The manufacturing date is on the side of the tyre - if original and with such low kms they may be aged and not offer their best in the grip department. If you find it moving about a bit this may be the cause not the bike.

mynemesis
15th October 2015, 21:50
Oh yeah, old tyres! I hadn't even thought of that! Doh!

Cheers for pointing that out. Wish I'd thought of that before thrashing it back from the naki on those crappy surfaced roads in the hills.

Least I made it back without any issues.

nzspokes
16th October 2015, 05:21
Same colour as mine. Yeah I would swap the tyres out. Nice bike.

mynemesis
16th October 2015, 16:45
Same colour as mine. Yeah I would swap the tyres out. Nice bike.

Cheers.

And damn it! feels so wrong ditching a pair of good looking tyres with all that juicy thread :brick:

Gremlin
16th October 2015, 17:10
Cheers.

And damn it! feels so wrong ditching a pair of good looking tyres with all that juicy thread :brick:
You'll feel better when you're picking yourself and the bike up off the road? :sunny:

mynemesis
16th October 2015, 17:19
You'll feel better when you're picking yourself and the bike up off the road? :sunny:

Yeah I know. Doesn't stop it hurting though. Also doesn't stop me picking myself and my bike up either come to think about it