Brake rotor fasteners?

[benhall]

Ive been overhauling the brakes on my FZR1000 and some of the rotor bolts were a pain and fucked themselves and some were already replaced with unmatched types.

317682

Anyone recommend a nice place to get fasteners, would love something that doesn't go all pox like steel ones do, little dubious about using stainless :blink:

Is titanium the only other option?

they are button head M8X25 socket type

[malcy25]

Go past any good fastener shop with a couple and chat to the guys there. High tensile, plated steel. Stainless will be okay (see www.probolt.com).

Or just go see your Yamaha shop. Those ones will have lasted 20 years okay.....

[The End]

I came across this site the other day looking for something similar - http://www.tooltimeonline.co.nz/product-category/fasteners/

[Tazz]

Blacks Fasteners.

[Gremlin]

I use Anzor a lot: http://www.anzor.co.nz/napier-branch

[benhall]

id like a full 18 of them and after spending over 300 dollars on brake rotor seals from Yamaha I'm a little reluctant on getting OEM stuff.

Fastener guys in Napier are less the helpful... guy from steel masters flat out refused to say they do socket screws when they have them on the website

I could get these
http://www.steelmasters.co.nz/socket-product/button-head-capscrews/m8-x-25-button-hd-capscrew/afa.asp?idWebPage=41063&CATID=140&ID=101709&SID=932800749

and more to the point what are your thoughts on stainless cause the anzor guys here are awesome

[Akzle]

maaaaaaaaate. Steel masters up here are good. A damn shame yours arent.

Define whst you want
"socket screws" arent a thing.

Stainless is ok. I'd go the softer 304 which will be more tensile than the 316. I doubt either will shear, but that would be my pick.

[bogan]

Bit hard to tell in that picture, but are they fully threaded? Many disc bolts will have a flat along the bolt for the disc holes. SS is also weaker than high tensile steel. Wouldn't worry too much about that though, probolt sells 316 SS bolts for discs so it can't be too shit.

[husaberg]

Ive been overhauling the brakes on my FZR1000 and some of the rotor bolts were a pain and fucked themselves and some were already replaced with unmatched types.



Anyone recommend a nice place to get fasteners, would love something that doesn't go all pox like steel ones do, little dubious about using stainless :blink:

Is titanium the only other option?

they are button head M8X25 socket type

From memory Stainless and Aluminium are not as great a combination that you might suspect.
Ti also galls in its threads

[bogan]

From memory Stainless and Aluminium are not as great a combination that you might suspect.
Ti also galls in its threads

I used to be wary of that too. But it's risk of galvanic corrosion is reduced when the aluminium part is large (ie, not the fastener) when there is no corrosive electrolyte present (ie saltwater) and when there is a film of thread lube/locker between the two (loctite); all such factors should apply on a motorcycle.

ZP is another option of course, they're not as common in high tensile though.

[husaberg]

I used to be wary of that too. But it's risk of galvanic corrosion is reduced when the aluminium part is large (ie, not the fastener) when there is no corrosive electrolyte present (ie saltwater) and when there is a film of thread lube/locker between the two (loctite); all such factors should apply on a motorcycle.

ZP is another option of course, they're not as common in high tensile though.
Agreed. But they still corrode where the two meet.
Not sure what the standard coating are on the rotor bolts but I suspect its cadmium.
The point I was trying to make is Stainless is not a wonder metal in regards to its corrosion protection.
Looking at the bolts and the bikes vintage I wonder why not to use stock fasteners AS LONG AS THEY MATCH THE STD TENSILE SPECS and design.

[benhall]

maaaaaaaaate. Steel masters up here are good. A damn shame yours arent.

Define whst you want
"socket screws" arent a thing.

Stainless is ok. I'd go the softer 304 which will be more tensile than the 316. I doubt either will shear, but that would be my pick.


socket screws, cap screws, everyones got a fucking different name :facepalm:

ill drop by anzor again, he was very reluctant because braking components, same feeling for me..

[benhall]

Bit hard to tell in that picture, but are they fully threaded? Many disc bolts will have a flat along the bolt for the disc holes. SS is also weaker than high tensile steel. Wouldn't worry too much about that though, probolt sells 316 SS bolts for discs so it can't be too shit.

There is a small shoulder on them its about 4mm (so around the disk width)

I have acquired lovely brembo serie oro discs so not wanting to put rubbish old bolts on them

[benhall]

Agreed. But they still corrode where the two meet.
Not sure what the standard coating are on the rotor bolts but I suspect its cadmium.
The point I was trying to make is Stainless is not a wonder metal in regards to its corrosion protection.
Looking at the bolts and the bikes vintage I wonder why not to use stock fasteners AS LONG AS THEY MATCH THE STD TENSILE SPECS and design.

Not sure if you read my original post at all? 2 are missing, 2 fucked themselves so i had to easy out them and the rest look like shit and are ready to die and not come out... theyre not going back in. The chances of getting stock fasteners in NZ for an 89 bike is literately zero and if they are available are probably like 10 dollars a piece hence my post here

[Akzle]

10$/go for your life...
Easy money id say.


Grade 8, 304 ss i tells ya.

[Akzle]

socket screws, cap screws, everyones got a fucking different name :facepalm:

ill drop by anzor again, he was very reluctant because braking components, same feeling for me..

cap screws have an inhex (allen) head on them...

[husaberg]

Not sure if you read my original post at all? 2 are missing, 2 fucked themselves so i had to easy out them and the rest look like shit and are ready to die and not come out... theyre not going back in. The chances of getting stock fasteners in NZ for an 89 bike is literately zero and if they are available are probably like 10 dollars a piece hence my post here

I certainly did, did you read all of my reply? There was some stuff in caps :)
When i was refering to stock it was in reference to materials rather than OE equipment.

[bogan]

There is a small shoulder on them its about 4mm (so around the disk width)

I have acquired lovely brembo serie oro discs so not wanting to put rubbish old bolts on them

That shoulder might be reasonably important to keep an even pressure on the disc hole face. On the one hand it'll almost certainly be fine with just a normal bolt, but on the other hand it is a pretty important braking component.

[husaberg]

http://www.bikerbargains.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_233_185&products_id=679
likely the yam is 6 bolts lol (murphy)
unfortunately the off roaders generally have thinner disks.
http://www.torpedo7.co.nz/shop/moto/nuts---bolts

[malcy25]

Not sure if you read my original post at all? 2 are missing, 2 fucked themselves so i had to easy out them and the rest look like shit and are ready to die and not come out... theyre not going back in. The chances of getting stock fasteners in NZ for an 89 bike is literately zero and if they are available are probably like 10 dollars a piece hence my post here

ordered some OEM ones for an old Yamaha not that long ago on they arrived no issue. can't remember what I paid but try places like www.boats.net

Edit: $1.38 each US, plus postage.

[malcy25]

That shoulder might be reasonably important to keep an even pressure on the disc hole face. On the one hand it'll almost certainly be fine with just a normal bolt, but on the other hand it is a pretty important braking component.

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.

[J.A.W.]

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.

Yeah, oddly enough,
I had the same task to do recently, & the Yamaha discs are fastened by those fancy allen-head mushroom types with blue thread compound.
Inevitably a couple of 'em were a bit chewed & wanted replacement.. but I had serviceable spares from previous doings - which did the job.

But, as noted, they are a basic ISO metric thread size, so any equivalent bolt shop replacement will likely do, unless originality is an issue..

[neels]

Can buy the the OEM ones from partzilla.com for the price quoted above of $1.38US each, or give a Yamaha dealer a call and check the price for p/n 90109-08718-00, I've found for most of the yammy parts I've bought the price has been pretty similar when they're available ex Australia.

It's probably nice if the brake rotor bolts are the right thing, in the interests of stopping when you want to and all.......

[bogan]

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.
That's a very good point. That'll be 13 with thread lube?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

[Moise]

I just bought 12 for the R1 from Partzilla in the US. Less than NZ $50 including freight.

[TLDV8]

There is a small shoulder on them its about 4mm (so around the disk width)

I have acquired lovely brembo serie oro discs so not wanting to put rubbish old bolts on them

It might depend on the method used to centre the rotor on the wheel hub.

Some are centred by the raised spigot on the hub that corresponds to the ID of the carrier centre.

Some use a shouldered fastener that often has a M8 thread combined with a 10mm OD shoulder, that shoulder can in some cases fit into a 10 mm counter bore in the wheel hub.

If the Yamaha 'bolt has a shoulder than only engages the carrier there is the possibility that using a non shouldered fastener of say 8 mm would leave a 2mm clearance in the carrier holes (If there was a hole in the rotor to suit that OEM shoulder)

If that was the case the fastener could end up off centre (radially) to the holes and mark the new carrier if a standard industrial cap screw was used, it might even have slightly less clamping force due to reduced surface area (carrier to fastener area under the head)
Less clamping force could then reduce the clamping friction of the carrier to the wheel hub flange.

Or not but just saying.,.