Fix for conservatory leak when windy

[F5 Dave]

OK here's a pic of the join between the house and the glass. Looking up through the glass above me you can almost see the join but it is obscured by the copper guttering.

In a wind rain runs up the shallow glass roof and is driven into the ceiling somehow.

Ahh crap silly tablet loaded pic upsidedown.

[F5 Dave]

OK so just making a dam should stop this problem, a piece of angle ally siliconed to the glass one might think.

But the glass is like 3 or 4 sections with a raised rubber seal between each piece so it couldn't lie flat.

Ideas?

To get to it I'll have to lie on the roof with a harness and reach over the guttering.

[BMWST?]

maybe a flashing with a soft edge which can be formed over your ridges.However the shallow pitch of the glass mean that water will be blown up and held against the flashing,so any movement at all will result in water being pumped or capillary action up behind the flashing.Doesnt really look like there is much up there to prevent any water getting in

[jasonu]

OK so just making a dam should stop this problem, a piece of angle ally siliconed to the glass one might think.

But the glass is like 3 or 4 sections with a raised rubber seal between each piece so it couldn't lie flat.

Ideas?

To get to it I'll have to lie on the roof with a harness and reach over the guttering.

Sounds like you already know what to do.

[Grumph]

I thought you bought your Devcon in the economy size 1 liter tins ?

If ever i saw a spot to use up the old tins, this is it.....

[flyingcrocodile46]

OK here's a pic of the join between the house and the glass. Looking up through the glass above me you can almost see the join but it is obscured by the copper guttering.

In a wind rain runs up the shallow glass roof and is driven into the ceiling somehow.

Ahh crap silly tablet loaded pic upsidedown.

The water is likely entering through the gap because of two or three mechanisms.

1. Straight forward wind pressure (which you appear to be aware of) and
2. Air pressure changes (when the air pressure inside is less than that outside, it causes air to be sucked through invisible gaps like a little pump). In cases of changes in wall/roof planes, localised wind action (not the only air pressure driver) will (depending on wind direction and the shapes of the planes and junctions) cause a pressure imbalance that will draw standing water through any unsealed junction that it is in contact with. The wind pushes it up to the junction and the air pressure differential (and gravity in many cases where the gap is big enough and capillary action where the surfaces are close together and poorly sealed) sucks it through the gap.
3. Water may be overflowing the lower back edge of the spouting (if the DP is too small or blocked) and may then be entering as described above as it discharges directly onto the junction via gravity.

I suggest you remove the spouting, seal any visible gaps and along the junction between the fascia and glass, then install a square (preferably 10mm bigger that the depth between the glass and top of the mullions) bituminous impregnated foam closure strip (mostly used for roof flashings) cut into sections about 30mm longer than the distance between the roof window mullions/bars and positioned between them at least 120mm out from the fascia). Then install a standard .5 gauge colorsteel (transverse) apron flashing with a down turned edge on the horizontal leg (that is approx 3mm less that the depth from the top of the window mullion to the glass). The horizontal leg (to the start of the down turned edge) should be 200mm and the vertical leg should be roughly equal to the height from the top of the mullions to the underside of the roof cladding above the gutter.

Lay the flashing on top in the position desired (up against the fascia), mark out then cut the down turned edge at each mullion (so that the down turn is notched snugly to the mullions). As the flashing can only be fixed to the fascia and the mullions it needs to be bent less than the angle of the junction so that it is 'spring loaded' when it is fixed in pace. Push it hard to the fascia then push it down onto the glass. Fix it to the fascia no more than 50mm above the bend and with a single fixing to each mullion at the very outside edge of the flashing.

Now you just need to put the spouting back and seal the junction (inside) between the glass and the fascia on the underside of the junction (closing the air gap through which the pressure differential equalizes.

Better yet, employ a roofer to do it for you.

HTH

[F5 Dave]

Golly I'm going to have to Google some of those words and draw a picture.

I first suspected the guttering and spent a bit of time propping it up so it fell properly, but it was a red herring as it can rain enough to make Noah nervous but doesn't leak. Then it will if the wind is blowing and presumably in the right direction.

Right off to Google minions and mullions. Thanks.

[gsxr]

The water is likely entering through the gap because of two or three mechanisms.

1. Straight forward wind pressure (which you appear to be aware of) and
2. Air pressure changes (when the air pressure inside is less than that outside, it causes air to be sucked through invisible gaps like a little pump). In cases of changes in wall/roof planes, localised wind action (not the only air pressure driver) will (depending on wind direction and the shapes of the planes and junctions) cause a pressure imbalance that will draw standing water through any unsealed junction that it is in contact with. The wind pushes it up to the junction and the air pressure differential (and gravity in many cases where the gap is big enough and capillary action where the surfaces are close together and poorly sealed) sucks it through the gap.
3. Water may be overflowing the lower back edge of the spouting (if the DP is too small or blocked) and may then be entering as described above as it discharges directly onto the junction via gravity.

I suggest you remove the spouting, seal any visible gaps and along the junction between the fascia and glass, then install a square (preferably 10mm bigger that the depth between the glass and top of the mullions) bituminous impregnated foam closure strip (mostly used for roof flashings) cut into sections about 30mm longer than the distance between the roof window mullions/bars and positioned between them at least 120mm out from the fascia). Then install a standard .5 gauge colorsteel (transverse) apron flashing with a down turned edge on the horizontal leg (that is approx 3mm less that the depth from the top of the window mullion to the glass). The horizontal leg (to the start of the down turned edge) should be 200mm and the vertical leg should be roughly equal to the height from the top of the mullions to the underside of the roof cladding above the gutter.

Lay the flashing on top in the position desired (up against the fascia), mark out then cut the down turned edge at each mullion (so that the down turn is notched snugly to the mullions). As the flashing can only be fixed to the fascia and the mullions it needs to be bent less than the angle of the junction so that it is 'spring loaded' when it is fixed in pace. Push it hard to the fascia then push it down onto the glass. Fix it to the fascia no more than 50mm above the bend and with a single fixing to each mullion at the very outside edge of the flashing.

Now you just need to put the spouting back and seal the junction (inside) between the glass and the fascia on the underside of the junction (closing the air gap through which the pressure differential equalizes.

Better yet, employ a roofer to do it for you.

HTH
That sounds simple .
Did you mean throw some no more gaps at it ???

[gsxr]

Posted twice Sowwy

[flyingcrocodile46]

That sounds simple .
Did you mean throw some no more gaps at it ???

Mastic man

[rustys]

The water is likely entering through the gap because of two or three mechanisms.

1. Straight forward wind pressure (which you appear to be aware of) and
2. Air pressure changes (when the air pressure inside is less than that outside, it causes air to be sucked through invisible gaps like a little pump). In cases of changes in wall/roof planes, localised wind action (not the only air pressure driver) will (depending on wind direction and the shapes of the planes and junctions) cause a pressure imbalance that will draw standing water through any unsealed junction that it is in contact with. The wind pushes it up to the junction and the air pressure differential (and gravity in many cases where the gap is big enough and capillary action where the surfaces are close together and poorly sealed) sucks it through the gap.
3. Water may be overflowing the lower back edge of the spouting (if the DP is too small or blocked) and may then be entering as described above as it discharges directly onto the junction via gravity.

I suggest you remove the spouting, seal any visible gaps and along the junction between the fascia and glass, then install a square (preferably 10mm bigger that the depth between the glass and top of the mullions) bituminous impregnated foam closure strip (mostly used for roof flashings) cut into sections about 30mm longer than the distance between the roof window mullions/bars and positioned between them at least 120mm out from the fascia). Then install a standard .5 gauge colorsteel (transverse) apron flashing with a down turned edge on the horizontal leg (that is approx 3mm less that the depth from the top of the window mullion to the glass). The horizontal leg (to the start of the down turned edge) should be 200mm and the vertical leg should be roughly equal to the height from the top of the mullions to the underside of the roof cladding above the gutter.

Lay the flashing on top in the position desired (up against the fascia), mark out then cut the down turned edge at each mullion (so that the down turn is notched snugly to the mullions). As the flashing can only be fixed to the fascia and the mullions it needs to be bent less than the angle of the junction so that it is 'spring loaded' when it is fixed in pace. Push it hard to the fascia then push it down onto the glass. Fix it to the fascia no more than 50mm above the bend and with a single fixing to each mullion at the very outside edge of the flashing.

Now you just need to put the spouting back and seal the junction (inside) between the glass and the fascia on the underside of the junction (closing the air gap through which the pressure differential equalizes.

Better yet, employ a roofer to do it for you.

HTH

Top marks that man. That is the only and proper way for the fix. If the glass roof is only butting to the fascia board, there is no way you are getting a leak into the ceiling or soffit cavity from that, that leak is coming from somewhere else, if the seal between the glass and the fascia has broken the leak would be at that point.

[Banditbandit]

Selley's All Clear - just get a tube, attach the nozzle and run a length of the silicone along the top of the glass ...

Everything else seems really complicated ...

[Erelyes]

pressure imbalance... capillary action... bituminous impregnated... mullions.... apron flashing... mullion...

317862

10fuckinchar

[F5 Dave]

bituminous impregnated foam closure strip

Available from merchants sez the foamseal site. Thanks, useful.

By chance I'm sitting staring straight up at where I took the picture having a beer. What if I used Two tubes of all clear. . . :msn-wink:

[gsxr]

bituminous impregnated foam closure strip

Available from merchants sez the foamseal site. Thanks, useful.

By chance I'm sitting staring straight up at where I took the picture having a beer. What if I used Two tubes of all clear. . . :msn-wink:
That might work

But according to flyingcroc you need........

Millions for a minion to repair your mullion.

[F5 Dave]

I don't doubt that is the best solid repair. But after a beer or so I'm feeling lazy esp as I have to GiB the ceiling inside. Obviously if it got wet I'd throw a tanty. I'd probably come on here and rave.

[flyingcrocodile46]

317862

10fuckinchar

? You want an apprenticeship?

Here's your very own beginners spell book

https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/432405415.jpg

[Daffyd]

Ahh crap silly tablet loaded pic upsidedown.

There's your problem right there... Don'tcha know water flows downhill? :crazy:

[husaberg]

OK here's a pic of the join between the house and the glass. Looking up through the glass above me you can almost see the join but it is obscured by the copper guttering.

In a wind rain runs up the shallow glass roof and is driven into the ceiling somehow.

Ahh crap silly tablet loaded pic upsidedown.

Have you tried devcon yet Dave? ...........:2thumbsup

[BMWST?]

I don't doubt that is the best solid repair. But after a beer or so I'm feeling lazy esp as I have to GiB the ceiling inside. Obviously if it got wet I'd throw a tanty. I'd probably come on here and rave.
if you take the gib off BEFORE you try a repair you might see where the water is coming in

[F5 Dave]

From the outside into the inside.

[Erelyes]

if you take the gib off BEFORE you try a repair you might see where the water is coming in

"Up your arse and round the corner, all the way to California"

[Swoop]

There's your problem right there... Don'tcha know water flows downhill? :crazy:

Except when affected by capillary action, when it goes uphill.

[Daffyd]

Except when affected by capillary action, when it goes uphill.

Of course, but I would hardly say it flows. I take your point though.

[awa355]

Very simple; if it is raining, you can't fix it. If it is not raining, there's no need to fix it. :weird:

[F5 Dave]

Well it rained and I was getting drips and it wasn't windy. Quite specific place between the outside board and conservatory. There is damage in other places indicating that it has leaked in another place or two.

Ended up pulling off a decromastic tile. It was a bit rotten where the edge was sitting in gutter water/detris. When reroofed from iron they didn't extend the building paper full length to the edge. So we did that, there's evidence of water from above. Directly in line with the side stay of a TV aerial. Love those guys. Sealed that stay.

Flashing actually looked great. But there was a 0.5 to 4mm gap to the ally of the conservatory, just in the 1.5 metres in the affected area. Sealed that. And top of flaashing while we were there. Replaced tile with a new spare (thanks whoever left those in the ceiling I found a while back). Sealed any nails as they went down.

Glad to have my mate Matt helping and doing most of it (has a harness, doesn't want to fall off a roof again). Hopefully we've done enough to stop the leak/s. Next step is gibing the ceiling so clearly that needs to stay dry. Rain for Friday so should find out before I start.

[jasonu]

Ended up pulling off a decromastic tile. .

I thought that was summat to do with Ducati valves...:cool:

[Swoop]

I thought that was summat to do with Ducati valves...:cool:
Quite similar construction techniques and materials, in fact.