Cleaning and conditioning leather gear - Do you and how?

[Big Dog]

I was asked how I clean my leather gear, the following has served me well but I was also interested to see what other do / use?

For road used leathers getting rid of the accumulated oil and bugs in concern number two. Not shrinking our gear is concern number 1.
Not washing dyes etc off is concern number 3, some people may not care about this preferring a bit of a patina.


First I get rid of the bugs.
I only do the side facing into traffic for this part.
Lay the gear in question flat, and put a warm wet towel on top. Not hot. About body temp.
Go and do something else for 30 minutes.
With a damp cloth wipe away any bugs, rinsing the cloth regularly (no point depositing the same bugs elsewhere).
Then wipe along the seams.
Repeat until you can wring out the cloth without getting a grey colour in your water.


The rest I do all over.
Some people will advise giving a good scrub with saddle soap.
I don't scrub as it ages the leather and can lead to cracking if you take too much out, whatever leather appropriate soap you can lay your hands on (including saddle soap) lather it up with warm water onto a towel or cloth (you can use the one you soaked under if you are not doing any other pieces) and leave it laying on your garment for 10 - 15 minutes or as long as it takes to go from body temp to room temp. If you can, hanging it up with a cloth draped over both sides saves a bit of time.

Then give it a wipe and repeat until you have water that is mostly clear when you ring it out, pay particular attention to seams. The soap residue will make it slightly brown but you don't want it to look like frothy tea when you wring it out.
The back is rarely dirty but you want the colours to look the same and I am told that after a few washes you will see a difference in the sunlight.

Lastly I give it a quick wipe with warm dish water. This speeds up the drying time and can be skipped if you are not in a hurry.

IF you want to wash your linings, sponge diluted sport wash through liberally then sponge through clean water until it comes clear.

Lay flat or hang on a heavy coat hanger in the shade till dry. You can hang in a heated room or over a dehumidifier if in a hurry but don't put it directly in front of a heat source or your dye may change colour and your leather may dry out.


From here it gets a bit personal but I like beeswax based product others insist mink oil, I don't think that matters as much as the leather must be warmer than it will ever get while you are wearing it when you put it on if you don't want it on your clothes first sunny day.

In the past I have used a hair dryer on high and heat gun on low, but keep it moving so as to not take anything out of the leather you want the leather warm enough to be uncomfortable but not scalding. Others swear by the leave it sitting in the sun for 10-20 minutes on a hot day.
IF the weather is cold you may want to warm your product first.
Daub it along the seems until there is some sitting on top as the leather cools it should suck it up.
Once you have hit all the seams evenly across the remainder of the leather... you will need a lot less and are mostly looking to colour match to your seams.

I am sure others will have other processes, some will disagree with my system, but this is my system for how I can clean my jacket, pants, gloves and boots in about 2 hours on a Friday night and have them dry enough to condition in about 2 hours on a Saturday with a single pot of snow seal or similar beeswax based product.

For bonus points with your leathers but debit points with your mrs leave them in the hot water cupboard for a day or two. This will allow any excess product to soak into the leather but may make other laundry smell a bit.
If you can't do that give them another blast with the heat source the day after.


I have found the liquid beeswax and liquid saddle soap are easier to use but less effective and with way more residue for way less product.

Links to the products I have used to do the above.
http://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/afawcs0126509/CATID=9/SUBID=245/ID=54993/SID=13802933/productdetails.html (This is a similar product not the one I used to use, probably what I will buy when I need some more though)
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1211-sno_seal_gear_cleaning_and_wat/5220-sno_seal_beeswax_waterproofing.aspx
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1211-sno_seal_gear_cleaning_and_wat/5222-sno_seal_sport_wash.aspx

[Big Dog]

PS. IF your gear is not fitting to the ideal. Put it on when it is no longer dripping but before it is completely dry after the wash stage, wear it until dry or at least comfortable.
Your body heat will help it to stretch a little where tight and shrink a little where loose.

[RGVforme]

I was asked how I clean my leather gear, the following has served me well but I was also interested to see what other do / use?

For road used leathers getting rid of the accumulated oil and bugs in concern number two. Not shrinking our gear is concern number 1.
Not washing dyes etc off is concern number 3, some people may not care about this preferring a bit of a patina.


First I get rid of the bugs.
I only do the side facing into traffic for this part.
Lay the gear in question flat, and put a warm wet towel on top. Not hot. About body temp.
Go and do something else for 30 minutes.
With a damp cloth wipe away any bugs, rinsing the cloth regularly (no point depositing the same bugs elsewhere).
Then wipe along the seams.
Repeat until you can wring out the cloth without getting a grey colour in your water.


The rest I do all over.
Some people will advise giving a good scrub with saddle soap.
I don't scrub as it ages the leather and can lead to cracking if you take too much out, whatever leather appropriate soap you can lay your hands on (including saddle soap) lather it up with warm water onto a towel or cloth (you can use the one you soaked under if you are not doing any other pieces) and leave it laying on your garment for 10 - 15 minutes or as long as it takes to go from body temp to room temp. If you can, hanging it up with a cloth draped over both sides saves a bit of time.

Then give it a wipe and repeat until you have water that is mostly clear when you ring it out, pay particular attention to seams. The soap residue will make it slightly brown but you don't want it to look like frothy tea when you wring it out.
The back is rarely dirty but you want the colours to look the same and I am told that after a few washes you will see a difference in the sunlight.

Lastly I give it a quick wipe with warm dish water. This speeds up the drying time and can be skipped if you are not in a hurry.

IF you want to wash your linings, sponge diluted sport wash through liberally then sponge through clean water until it comes clear.

Lay flat or hang on a heavy coat hanger in the shade till dry. You can hang in a heated room or over a dehumidifier if in a hurry but don't put it directly in front of a heat source or your dye may change colour and your leather may dry out.


From here it gets a bit personal but I like beeswax based product others insist mink oil, I don't think that matters as much as the leather must be warmer than it will ever get while you are wearing it when you put it on if you don't want it on your clothes first sunny day.

In the past I have used a hair dryer on high and heat gun on low, but keep it moving so as to not take anything out of the leather you want the leather warm enough to be uncomfortable but not scalding. Others swear by the leave it sitting in the sun for 10-20 minutes on a hot day.
IF the weather is cold you may want to warm your product first.
Daub it along the seems until there is some sitting on top as the leather cools it should suck it up.
Once you have hit all the seams evenly across the remainder of the leather... you will need a lot less and are mostly looking to colour match to your seams.

I am sure others will have other processes, some will disagree with my system, but this is my system for how I can clean my jacket, pants, gloves and boots in about 2 hours on a Friday night and have them dry enough to condition in about 2 hours on a Saturday with a single pot of snow seal or similar beeswax based product.

For bonus points with your leathers but debit points with your mrs leave them in the hot water cupboard for a day or two. This will allow any excess product to soak into the leather but may make other laundry smell a bit.
If you can't do that give them another blast with the heat source the day after.


I have found the liquid beeswax and liquid saddle soap are easier to use but less effective and with way more residue for way less product.

Links to the products I have used to do the above.
http://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/afawcs0126509/CATID=9/SUBID=245/ID=54993/SID=13802933/productdetails.html (This is a similar product not the one I used to use, probably what I will buy when I need some more though)
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1211-sno_seal_gear_cleaning_and_wat/5220-sno_seal_beeswax_waterproofing.aspx
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1211-sno_seal_gear_cleaning_and_wat/5222-sno_seal_sport_wash.aspx

Bugger all that.....:crazy:

Wipe it down with a warm water only damp cloth.

Let it dry.

Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.Comes out as soft as a babys arse.

F**king ride on.:2thumbsup

Leather is a living thing you have to feed it.Dont and it shrivels up like a dead cow in the desert.

[swbarnett]

A good going over about once a year with "Bone Dry" is all mine gets. Even though it gets daily use.

Bugs aren't a problem. They're all on the fairing.

[Big Dog]

Bugger all that.....:crazy:

Wipe it down with a warm water only damp cloth.

Let it dry.

Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.Comes out as soft as a babys arse.

F**king ride on.:2thumbsup

Leather is a living thing you have to feed it.Dont and it shrivels up like a dead cow in the desert.
I hear you. I don't do the whole lot more than every 3 years. Just whatever is necessary. If I clean the bugs off without detergent in don't seem to need the other products.

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[Hawkeye]

Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.

[Moi]

Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.

Where do you live? - The Swamp?

[MarkH]

I just wipe off anything nasty and then once in a while I re-do the waterproofing/protectant using: http://www.obenaufs.com/Heavy-Duty-LP-8-oz-p/heavy-duty-lp-8.htm
I had that product recommended on another forum so I bought some, seems to work really well. My leather jacket keeps me dry in any rain, my textile jacket doesn't work nearly as well.

[Banditbandit]

I wash my leathers with warm water, then rub in black kiwi boot polish. Every so often I also rub in bees wax (I have a tin of this http://www.beeseal.co.nz/BeeSeal-Facts) for waterproofing and to keep the leather supple ..

[Banditbandit]

Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.

My leathers are the MOST expensive article of clothing I own (just my leather jacket alone is worth around eight times the cost of the clothes I wear to work) .. I took a short contract job over and above what I earn in my day job just to buy my leather riding pants ...

So I treat them accordingly ...

[Jin]

I use leatherique. Wrap in a plastic bag on a hot day for the oil to penetrate for a day. Then clean with the pristine clean.

[nzspokes]

A good going over about once a year with "Bone Dry" is all mine gets. Even though it gets daily use.

Bugs aren't a problem. They're all on the fairing.

Have you washed the inside of your helmet yet?

[swbarnett]

Have you washed the inside of your helmet yet?
No. Totally unnecessary.

[nzspokes]

No. Totally unnecessary.
Thats disgusting.

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[pritch]

Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.



I'm just a bit startled that in the 21st century people still recommend Dubbin. It's awful shit and can rot the stitching in anything it comes in contact with.
Once upon a time it was probably all you could get in this country, but that was a bloody long time ago.

[swbarnett]

Thats disgusting.

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That's your opinion. I think mine holds one hell of a lot more weight when we're talking about my helmet.

Each to their own....

[nzspokes]

That's your opinion. I think mine holds one hell of a lot more weight when we're talking about my helmet.

Each to their own....

Do you bother washing your socks?

[Big Dog]

Not a fair comparison. Socks smell bad after a day let alone a week. Helmets don't if worn regularly.

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[Big Dog]

I suppose in that analogy though the sock would be hair. Mine gets washed regularly.

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[RGVforme]

I'm just a bit startled that in the 21st century people still recommend Dubbin. It's awful shit and can rot the stitching in anything it comes in contact with.
Once upon a time it was probably all you could get in this country, but that was a bloody long time ago.

Startle away there chap.

Been using this for years.Horse riding gear/Army issue boots/ leather riding gear/Belts

Only time I had stitching rot away was when I neglected to use dubbin and stored the item away for a period of time like 6 months.

Perhaps a laziness issue than a product one for some people.:scratch:

[Big Dog]

I think the rotting stitching thing has to do with preperation. Seen this claim made about many products including beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

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[RGVforme]

I think the rotting stitching thing has to do with preperation. Seen this claim made about many products including beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

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Now there is a good point I never thought of BD I check my gear is always well dry before treatment.:rolleyes:

Me guesses that any product would lock any water in.:yes:

[nzspokes]

Not a fair comparison. Socks smell bad after a day let alone a week. Helmets don't if worn regularly.

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:facepalm::blink::sick:

[RGVforme]

:facepalm::blink::sick:

This part of the tread will spring to mind the next time I go to say or hear the words "Mate have you got a helmet I can borrow" lol.:crazy:

[Big Dog]

You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?

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[eldog]

beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

I would agree with that, I always dry out my gear if I am going to waterproof it - Snowseal/beeswax- for me boots.

Revit socks last a few days before they get itchy - then you know to wash/change them. Much better than other brands.


I sometimes condition when I clean my hair with Shampoo.:mellow:

Wear a balaclava(they recognise me when I walk into a bank) - clean that often, doesn't take much to dry:niceone: , to keep my helmet clean-its almost like new.

[Big Dog]

I sometimes condition when I clean my hair with Shampoo.:mellow:


Same logic around not using detergent unless it is needed and conditioning if I do.
Or only washing because I need to condition.

Washing detergent works by stripping oils. Conditioner works by providing a replacement for the oils...

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[RGVforme]

You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?

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:clap:

Seems to be a plentiful supply of self helmet polishers on KB if I did.:tugger: lol.

[HEsch]

For saddlery (leather - good quality - I have strapping that cost more than twice the retile price of my bike jacket, saddles that are worth the same as a second hand bike, etc).
Warm damp cloth to wipe off any grime. Effax Leder Kombi (Effax are German) if particularly dirty. Stubben saddle soap to help condition (glycerine is a humectant, so attracts moisture). Also a German product. Effax Leder Balsalm to condition, this has beexwax etc. On bike leathers I'd possibly skip the saddle soap, and use a heavier beexwax product instead of the Leder Balsalm.

Most people use some kind of oil on saddlery: it rots stitching, and kills the leather when you use too much (oil saturates the fibres and then they stretch). I steer well clear of it for leather.

[caspernz]

Taking care of leather can be a chapter all to itself. My approach has been refined over the years. Damp cloth to get rid of bug remains, maybe a soft toothbrush for any stubborn stuff stuck in difficult areas, such as stitching etc. Hang to dry for a day. Beeswax based product to apply once dry, use the wifes' hairdryer to gently warm the leather so I can rub the conditioner in. Let hang for an hour or two, repeat the heating cycle. Gently rub off the excess, maybe buff gently...some of you on here will be familiar with this buffing process :rolleyes::innocent:

For gloves I use a Harley Davidson leather conditioner, yeah ok it's the only HD branded product I use, and this is just a lighter version of the Dubbin/Snoseal/Beezwax type products. Clean, dry, condition, heat, wipe off excess, repeat heat cycle, wipe off, buff if necessary. Repeat every 3-6 months.

Now that's for the leather stuff I use outdoors, the indoor leather gear has a different care regime...:drool:

[HenryDorsetCase]

I like latex for indoor because it wipes clean. But that's another thread...

I endorse what most people have said, my SO was a horsewoman and had a lot of really good products for cleaning horse tack, which I used. In particular there is a Joseph Lyddy beeswax leather conditioner which is brilliant.

[Maha]

You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?

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I once polished DMNTD's helmet, it was disgusting but the end result was gratifying... we were much closer in 2009 :eek:


He called in last night, looking a little 'deflated' :whistle:
So we did the only proper thing and offered him food and water, well when I say water I mean....not water.
After a couple of hours of 'chit-chat' food and not water, he thought it best to make a move. That was my chance, without him knowing it and by total surprise, I polished his helmet, not once, but twice. My only thought was, come clean next time will ya Chris.....:(

[GazzaH]

Make it gleam boys, make it gleam.