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jellywrestler
2nd February 2016, 19:59
tried it many a time and have a new faring blank to cut and fit this time. common old hss drills have a sttep angle on them, I beleive there are other drill bits more suitable for this job, time to discuss folks, and who stocks them.
sidecar bob
2nd February 2016, 20:04
Not sure about special drills, but the key to drilling Perspex is patience.
If you push, it will crack, don't even use the weight of the drill, that will be too much.
I usually tape the area to be drilled & drill through the tape to prevent any scratching around the hole.
Madness
2nd February 2016, 20:05
Drop into PG2000 in Lorne Street, Te Aro and talk to Gunther.
Ocean1
2nd February 2016, 20:11
https://www.drillstapsdies.co.nz/

I never bother with low rake drills though. With a bit of care you can grind a standard drill like the one half way down the page: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm

Slow. Use CRC 556 or similar. Champher the edges.
bogan
2nd February 2016, 20:13
A fine step drill (non-spiral) should be, well, fine for that sort of job :bleh:
Big Dog
2nd February 2016, 20:42
The method I have used before is to just use a standard general purpose drill bit on low speed through masking tape and have someone else spray water on the tip as I went. But then I only had 2 holes to make.
If I had more to make I might have blown the cobwebs off the wallet and got a specific bit as above.

Sent via tapatalk.
nodrog
2nd February 2016, 21:07
tried it many a time and have a new faring blank to cut and fit this time. common old hss drills have a sttep angle on them, I beleive there are other drill bits more suitable for this job, time to discuss folks, and who stocks them.

Believe or not but old dull drill bits are better than brand new sharp drill bits on acrylics.
ellipsis
2nd February 2016, 21:16
Believe or not but old dull drill bits are better than brand new sharp drill bits on acrylics.


...oi've driv a fucking shitload of holes in acrylics in the course of my daily slog and have never had a problem 'cos all my bits have been fucked forever so I will have to go with nodrog on this...bad hearing can also lead to teeth problems, did you know?...
Virago
2nd February 2016, 21:18
I just use standard drill bits. The key to success is using a drill press - that way you can accurately control the slow feed, and most importantly prevent the bit from biting. Never had a problem yet.
HenryDorsetCase
2nd February 2016, 21:28
Thanks for the tips, chaps. EVERY time I have tried it I have split or cracked it. Brittle as fuck or something. Plus I am a munter.
nodrog
2nd February 2016, 21:29
I just use standard drill bits. The key to success is using a drill press - that way you can accurately control the slow feed, and most importantly prevent the bit from biting. Never had a problem yet.

The key to not getting fired from your job at a plastics company, is not to fuck around all day drilling a hole the slowest way possible.
jellywrestler
2nd February 2016, 21:36
I just use standard drill bits. The key to success is using a drill press - that way you can accurately control the slow feed, and most importantly prevent the bit from biting. Never had a problem yet.

it's a fairing blade, no fit in drill press, battery drill have several settings and often can be taped at a very slow speed, done plenty of this before but the internaughty is my friend when i want to learn a little other advice...
ellipsis
2nd February 2016, 21:58
...I worked on a job where the only tools on the job site were a big hammer, a blunt rusty saw and a 4 gallon bucket of sperm oil...everything always seemed to fuck up but we never had to use them tools we had...thank fuck...
jonbuoy
2nd February 2016, 23:29
Sharp bits burrow in easily and take too much meat off and ends up in tears. Blunt countersink after pilot hole helps.
sidecar bob
3rd February 2016, 06:15
The key to not getting fired from your job at a plastics company, is not to fuck With the boss, who has already figured out the slowest way possible.

Fixed it . . . .
HenryDorsetCase
3rd February 2016, 07:28
...I worked on a job where the only tools on the job site were a big hammer, a blunt rusty saw and a 4 gallon bucket of sperm oil...everything always seemed to fuck up but we never had to use them tools we had...thank fuck...

Well at least if the power went out you had some good quality, low smoke oil for your lamps
nodrog
3rd February 2016, 08:53
Fixed it . . . .

Never argue engineering with a qualified concert pianist.
swarfie
3rd February 2016, 09:01
Never argue engineering with a qualified concert penis.

Fixed that for ya, you're welcome
Askor
3rd February 2016, 09:55
Similar to drilling brass, you need to 'brass off' the drill bit so it doesn't self-feed and fuck shit up. Google it

I also find that having a piece of scrap perspex underneath the piece you're drilling helps - as the drill breaks through it wont grip and crack the plastic. Make sure the work piece is clamped down too.
HenryDorsetCase
3rd February 2016, 10:42
Similar to drilling brass, you need to 'brass off' the drill bit so it doesn't self-feed and fuck shit up. Google it

.

my mother used to say she was "brassed off" when she was minorly annoyed. I have never thought about its provenance before that.
jellywrestler
3rd February 2016, 11:32
my mother used to say she was "brassed off" when she was minorly annoyed. I have never thought about its provenance before that.

sure it wasn't Bras off, maybe a little bit of annoyance got her girl gravy going and she wanted to swing those puppies in the breeze a little and moisten her own stench trench?
the secrets of a closet S & M queen maybe?
djsubjective
12th March 2016, 12:43
I used to be a glazier, and did a lot of perspex/polycarb work. We used wood drill bits, as they arew like a hole saw and dont put pressure on the material being drilled.

Slow speed is the way to go. Also with cutting, we used wood blades for the jigsaw, and just go slow, if you go too fast it can crack, and it can also be too hot and the cut re-welds itself behind the blade.
husaberg
16th July 2016, 16:34
http://www.instructables.com/id/Foolproof-Easy-Drill-Bit-Sharpening-for-Acrylic/?ALLSTEPS

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malcy25
18th July 2016, 12:46
Believe or not but old dull drill bits are better than brand new sharp drill bits on acrylics.

yep, my best experience - I usually given them a bit extra on the concrete floor....and slow speed.
MENTAL490
31st March 2017, 20:52
tried it many a time and have a new faring blank to cut and fit this time. common old hss drills have a sttep angle on them, I beleive there are other drill bits more suitable for this job, time to discuss folks, and who stocks them.

to drill perspex use a sheet metal ground drill. they have like a center bit then its ground out so the outer diameter of the drill hits first, it works a treat oh and 0 rake like brass drills

http://www.physics.wisc.edu/ishop/images/defimages/drillsheetmetalsideview.gif