House building questions

[sheddy]

Hey team.
I dont really want to build a new house, due to the bureaucracy that will engage. But here in Morrinsville its very hard to buy a house that fits my needs. The Auckland expanse seems to have arrived here as well.Hence considering building. Has anyone recently built a house that sits on top of a concrete garage with back wall as retaining.
Im looking for tips and info help for this "possible " project. My plan is to build a full length block /tilt slab garage say 18m long and around 8-9m deep. Back wall needs to be against a 3m bank. so moisture barrier etc would be needed on back and side walls. Then I'm thinking of putting a transportable home or similar on top of this basement garage. What would be the best way to roof the garage [say 2.4m stud] to support a single story home with a good deck area.
Okay so this is a big garage at least 6 cars and with luck a man cave with good workshop space. 130 M2 transportable homes are in the 250k area. Block basement might cost 100k ???
Can anyone point me in the right direction. Id appreciate it . I need to move my XB12XT on as well as I need to consolidate the toy box.
Thanks

[Akzle]

pretty basic from a building standpoint.
Ribraft lower slab with sprung blockwall/retaining mulseal and polystyrene is standard+ drainage behind.
Upper floor will either be standard wood floor joists if you can have vertical support across the garage space, engineered clearspan beams, or ribraft again.

[Tazz]

What he said. ^

Go over kill on the drainage and sealer. It's a bitch digging that shit up again.

[flyingcrocodile46]

Way too many unknown potential constraints to facilitate economical and relevant advice. i.e, firmly nailing down the "transportable home" parameters (size & shape), percentage of the 18m long front wall of the garage that would be be open (garage doors verses solid wall), the slope of the site (angle of the dangle) etc.

Does the back wall really need to be the retaining wall or could a timber pole retained subfloor space (below a rear wall strip deck) meet your needs? Cheap cladding to close in the base of a pole house with a non load bearing wall framing & concrete floor for non habitable use in conjunction with a timber pole retaining wall would likely be a much more economical way of meeting your needs. As would confining the basement area to the foot print of the upper floor transportable home to avoid complications around the need for waterproof decks etc (though I suspect that size restraints of the transportable home and your desired size and shape of the garaging would likely complicate/compromise the economy and simplicity of that solution).

[eldog]

What he said. ^

Go over kill on the drainage and sealer. It's a bitch digging that shit up again.

I have seen it everytime someone builds a retaining wall, drainage, drainage, drainage - assume 1000 year floods every 5 years.

The one house I admired for years came onto the market, when I went through it, found I couldn't stand the damp in the lower basement even for a minute.
Every other point of the house was mint, bugger.

If you can put polystyrene under concrete and as a vertical barrier around the outside, it will keep the floor a bit more warmer.

Sounds like a lot of the homes built in the early 70's, house on top of garage.

Make sure you can ventilate it and the stairs are easy going.... for later


Looking for something else for work and came across this below don't know if this suits - they have other flooring suggestions on that site too.

https://atlasconcrete.co.nz/raft-flooring/

[Erelyes]

If you can put polystyrene under concrete and as a vertical barrier around the outside, it will keep the floor a bit more warmer.

Ribraft should pretty much be considered a minimum imo. You can go with Maxraft etc which is a full poly (not just pods) but the cost/benefit wasn't there for us.

Std ribraft is 90mm over the top of the poly blocks. It is relatively inexpensive to increase thickness a bit to say 110mm, which is a good idea especially if you will be having a concrete/tiled floor anywhere.

Perimeter insulation can help. BUT. Before you think about that, think about the design of the house. You should aim to minimise the perimeter/area ratio as much as possible. Ideally you don't have any side of the house which is doubling back on itself. Of course building on top of a garage will also help as the garage is a thermal break.

You can also improve your floor slab insulation by..... increasing your wall thickness. If you go with 140mm framing instead of 90mm, you boost both wall and floor R-value.

Again, cost/benefit wise we didn't find that perimeter insul was worth it. 140 walls were. We were doing a fairly standard flat single story build though.

[eldog]

Ribraft should pretty much be considered a minimum imo. You can go with Maxraft etc which is a full poly (not just pods) but the cost/benefit wasn't there for us.

Std ribraft is 90mm over the top of the poly blocks. It is relatively inexpensive to increase thickness a bit to say 110mm, which is a good idea especially if you will be having a concrete/tiled floor anywhere.

Perimeter insulation can help. BUT. Before you think about that, think about the design of the house. You should aim to minimise the perimeter/area ratio as much as possible. Ideally you don't have any side of the house which is doubling back on itself. Of course building on top of a garage will also help as the garage is a thermal break.

You can also improve your floor slab insulation by..... increasing your wall thickness. If you go with 140mm framing instead of 90mm, you boost both wall and floor R-value.

Again, cost/benefit wise we didn't find that perimeter insul was worth it. 140 walls were. We were doing a fairly standard flat single story build though.

nice update, I don't know about the latest trends, just what I saw about 20 years ago on a house I put the underfloor electric heating in concrete slab and what I have seen here and there.

I would suggest as much passive insulation and stuff like you suggested as you can afford, rather than just heating/cooling it after.

Been thinking about putting inverter air con in my current house. Only a thought at present.

[Akzle]

Std ribraft is 90mm over the top of the poly blocks. It is relatively inexpensive to increase thickness a bit to say 110mm, which is a good idea especially if you will be having a concrete/tiled floor anywhere.


which jews are doing your floor????

Standard is 4" ribs, 4" raft (slab). I'd be hitting up your council if they're signing off 90mm...

[Akzle]

I would suggest as much passive insulation and stuff like you suggested as you can afford, rather than just heating/cooling it after.


solid advice.
But "passive insulation" isnt really a thing.
You have passive heating/cooling. And thermal mass.

(and insulation. Which isnt actually required if you get the first two right)

which, given he's plonking a relocatable on, isnt really an option.

[eldog]

solid advice.
But "passive insulation" isnt really a thing.
You have passive heating/cooling. And thermal mass.

(and insulation. Which isnt actually required if you get the first two right)

which, given he's plonking a relocatable on, isnt really an option.

i may have the terminology wrong, but you got my idea.

he suggested using garage as man cave, having spent some time lying on a concrete floor myself, getting the heat losses to a minimum and good ventilation to get rid of damp air is the way to go. Can you insulate a relocatable?

it comes down to cost and what the OP wants, if it's long term better off doing all he can to save later. Most of these temporary ideas turn into long term.....

[Daffyd]

Sounds like a lot of the homes built in the early 70's, house on top of garage.

I had a brother in law in Auckland that did very well out of raising a standard house, building a garage/foundation under it and then lowering said house on to the new garage/foundation. Lives in Seattle now.

[eldog]

I had a brother in law in Auckland that did very well out of raising a standard house, building a garage/foundation under it and then lowering said house on to the new garage/foundation. Lives in Seattle now.
Cool
my cusses lived in a house, exactly like these.
i always remember the damp smell in the garage, could have done with a completely sealed block wall, some of the earth wasn't removed and one part only the top half of the wall was sealed. It was a slightly sloping section. Could have done with better ventilation. Always remember climbing and falling down the steep stairs to the house above, slippery as shit in the wet. an internal staircase would have been nice.

good on the OP for thinking outside the square.

[Erelyes]

which jews are doing your floor????

Standard is 4" ribs, 4" raft (slab). I'd be hitting up your council if they're signing off 90mm...

Source?

Mine says (http://www.firth.co.nz/media/33144/fir_21434b_ribraft_flooring_brochure_v5_lores.pdf) 'concrete thickness above the pods is 85mm'

[Akzle]

Source?

Mine says (http://www.firth.co.nz/media/33144/fir_21434b_ribraft_flooring_brochure_v5_lores.pdf) 'concrete thickness above the pods is 85mm'

i spent half a decade building the cunts.

[haydes55]

i spent half a decade building the cunts.
5 years, you spent 5 years building the cunts.

[Big Dog]

Perspective is an amazing thing...
You spent 5 years building one set of those a week would be far more impressive than you spent 5 years building one set of those...

Sent via tapatalk.

[Erelyes]

i spent half a decade building the cunts.

So anecdotal then, rather than based on anything published/technical.

And the good Christian folk doing our floors did 110mm in any case (4 1/3 inches in imperial parlance), even though we're not going with heated floors. :niceone:

[Akzle]

5 years, you spent 5 years building the cunts.

have they changed the definition of decade recently? Or half?
You seemed to get the point correctly, either way...

[Akzle]

Perspective is an amazing thing...
You spent 5 years building one set of those a week would be far more impressive than you spent 5 years building one set of those...

Sent via tapatalk.

3 in a good week with an prentice under me. Four if we had the other cunt who knew what he was doing.

[Akzle]

So anecdotal then, rather than based on anything published/technical.


largely, yes. But a fucking stack of floors that arent fucked says i'm right.

But also if you look at it from a nengineering standpoint, the design is such that, had you a fork hoist large enough, you could pick the slab up by one corner with fuckall deflection. A neighty mil raft is insufficient to hold the slab under tension.

Concrete specifications typically require 50mm cover to any internal steel/formwork, ergo, with 7mm mesh (or 5, if you're cheap aucklander cuntface), minimum top requirement is 107mm.

But hey. Fucked if i care.

[flyingcrocodile46]

Standard ribrafts (80+%) are 85-90mm but it's not uncommon to see 100mm and very occasionally a little thicker. Eco pods or Cupolex (not sure of the spellink) can reduce to as little as 65mm over the middle of the domed pods. The reasons for thicker ribraft slabs are varied (trafficable, public use, Highly expansive soils etc are a few examples).

I'm one of those suspect fellas that "signs off on them" Maybe as many as a thousand of them. They are fine until you start doing un-clever things with the topping (like forming set-downs or drainage planes without reducing the pod depths). They are less likely to crack on expansive soils than a standard slab.

Not sure what all the fuss about insulation is for if it's only a garage (Use a comfy sleeping roll if you want to lie on the cold hard concrete floor under an oil pan). If I was the OP (and didn't want to burn through dollars for little return... for the stated use) I would put the top floor on poles with a free standing pole retaining wall behind/separate to and outside of the garage. Pour (and saw cut) a 100mm thick slab with polythene, SE615 or 62 mesh (with a 150 wide 250mm deep edge thickening) and close it in with non-load bearing 4x2 H3.2 wall framing and 6mm flat hardies (over 20mm cavity battens and wrap) with crappy plastic jointers. Insulate the floor above with some Cosy floor or similar to keep the habitable space warm upstairs. Of course the cladding choice can be modified to taste and budget.

The advantage of this plan is all financial and it can be gradually upgraded to legal habitable use (consented wall insulation and wall and ceiling linings) without any dead money having been wasted along the way (as long as it's properly planned and documented/consented with the DPM, wall wrap, joinery flashings etc and the exterior ground is kept 225mm below FFL).

Even if you pushed ahead and fully insulated and lined it, the saving over ribraft and masonry cost (with internal battens, insulation and wall linings etc to upgrade the masonry wall version to habitable space) would likely be around $25+K. And you don't need to worry about excavating behind retaining walls to fix leaks and/or silted up subsoil drains if it goes pear shaped down the line.

[flyingcrocodile46]

largely, yes. But a fucking stack of floors that arent fucked says i'm right.

But also if you look at it from a nengineering standpoint, the design is such that, had you a fork hoist large enough, you could pick the slab up by one corner with fuckall deflection. A neighty mil raft is insufficient to hold the slab under tension.

Concrete specifications typically require 50mm cover to any internal steel/formwork, ergo, with 7mm mesh (or 5, if you're cheap aucklander cuntface), minimum top requirement is 107mm.

But hey. Fucked if i care.

From NZS3604 section 4 (Durability)
Minimum concrete cover to steel reinforcement shall be:
(a) 75 mm when concrete is placed directly on or against the ground;
(b) 50 mm in all other situations where the concrete is placed in formwork provided the concrete specifications follow the provisions
of 4.5.2;
(c) 30 mm from the top of a wall or floor slab which is in a closed area or 50 mm from the top of any exposed wall or floor slab.

In the case of rib rafts, the pods satisfy the 75mm clearance to ground even if the steel is hard down on the pods so you only need 50mm between the poly and steel under 3604 and another 30mm above the steel (hence the acceptance of 85mm). However, Rib rafts are specific design outside the scope of 3604 and the design recognises the additional clearance provided by the pods, so the bottom clearance becomes more about correct placement for optimum load transfer. Even standard floor slabs only have to be 100mm. The bottom steel cover is able to be reduced where the ground is covered by a membrane (taped polythene) as strictly speaking the concrete is no longer placed "directly" on the ground.

An interesting side note on the performance of polythene DPM. Until very recently NZBC E2/AS1 (weathertightness Acceptable solutions) allowed the use of a single layer of .25mm polythene with taped joints (and 'protection' same as for every other DPM/WPM used as tanking) to waterproof masonry/concrete retaining walls.

[Akzle]

In the case of rib rafts, the pods satisfy the 75mm clearance to ground even if the steel is hard down on the pods so you only need 50mm between the poly and steel under 3604 and another 30mm above the steel (hence the acceptance of 85mm).

yes, but in terms of "whats actually a good fucken idea" and "whats legal" there is, as usual, quite some disparity.

You mean to tell me, you would sign off on a slab with the mesh on the pods? The fuck i waste money on chairs for?

-edits-
do you know how concrete works?

[flyingcrocodile46]

yes, but in terms of "whats actually a good fucken idea" and "whats legal" there is, as usual, quite some disparity.

You mean to tell me, you would sign off on a slab with the mesh on the pods? The fuck i waste money on chairs for?

-edits-
do you know how concrete works?

Yes. That is always a good argument (better safe than sorry) though for most applications 85mm is sufficient. It comes down to ground conditions (that are often mitigated by piling below areas of the raft perimeter). The depth of the ribs do the lions share of the work (with respect to tension in your fork lift scenario) and they can be further strengthened with extra rebar in the more common reverse scenario.

No. I was pretty clear that a minimum of 50mm is desirable. Certainly wouldn't sign off on less than 30mm without convincing peer reviewed calculations.

[Grumph]

No. I was pretty clear that a minimum of 50mm is desirable. Certainly wouldn't sign off on less than 30mm without convincing peer reviewed calculations.

Amusingly enough, I watched the breaking up and removal of a garage floor slab yesterday at my daughter's house.
Onto an existing sealed area, a ring foundation had been dug to about 70mm below GL. Boxed and reinforcing put around the edge. A half sheet of mesh at one end too...Then backfilled with crappy fill and poured. Edges probably 120mm at the deepest point. In the center it was around 20mm thick...

I would not have liked to jack up a car anywhere close to the center of that floor....

[swarfie]

Amazing what some miserable mongrel builders get away with when the 'council inspector' has his back turned. When we bought the house we currently live in we wanted to put in some alarm and phone wiring for my shed out back which required running them through the ceiling, down outside wall and underground to the shed. Couldn't find an access hatch anywhere so had to cut a hole in the back of my daughters upstairs wardrobe. I looked in....no insulation in the ceiling space:cold:. Rockwool in the walls but nothing in the ceiling. Found out later the arsehole builder had charged the first owners for the insulation and just stuck it in his pocket.....frigging bottomfeeder:mad:
The useless Tron City Council wouldn't even get off their arse and do anything about it (even though the wank "builder" had a reputation for this sort of thing as we later found out). It wouldn't surprise me to find out the 'inspector' wasn't slipped a back pocket bribe to look the other way either. Ended up costing us to insulate the place. :angry:

[SPman]

If there was no access hatch, the inspector couldn't look.
Then again - no access hatch, the inspector shouldn't have signed off on it!

[Akzle]

It wouldn't surprise me to find out the 'inspector' wasn't slipped a back pocket bribe to look the other way either. Ended up costing us to insulate the place. :angry:

yes or no. It wasnt that long ago in dorkland that the chineses were getting pre-line inspections signed off.

...then going back and removing every second stud and half the nogs, (to be reused at the next house) before whacking up gib and fucking off.

[Erelyes]

whacking up gib and fucking off.

Better than them fucking up gib and whacking off.

[oldrider]

yes or no. It wasnt that long ago in dorkland that the chineses were getting pre-line inspections signed off.

...then going back and removing every second stud and half the nogs, (to be reused at the next house) before whacking up gib and fucking off.

I know of a NZ "Masterbuilders" member who used to do just that - did it for years on certain government contracts was well known for it - got away with it! :facepalm:

There have always been a % of shysters out there - probably always will be! :shifty:

[Swoop]

yes or no. It wasnt that long ago in dorkland that the chineses were getting pre-line inspections signed off.

...then going back and removing every second stud and half the nogs, (to be reused at the next house) before whacking up gib and fucking off.

Along with the steelwork in foundations...

Get it signed off, remove the steel to re-use in the next slab, wait for concrete truck to arrive to do the pour... Hope it isn't a kiwi driver who will start asking questions and then phone the council about the lack of steel...


There are a few slabs out there without any reinforcing.

[ellipsis]

...they are not dumb those oriental engineers...they seem to know what they are doing...


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rJGSDkmlRNM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Swoop]

...they are not dumb those oriental engineers...they seem to know what they are doing...
It's a "feature".

Certainly makes it easier to change the air conditioning units on the roof, via the "building hinge feature" fitted to all modern chinese high-rise structures...

[Laava]

Along with the steelwork in foundations...

Get it signed off, remove the steel to re-use in the next slab, wait for concrete truck to arrive to do the pour... Hope it isn't a kiwi driver who will start asking questions and then phone the council about the lack of steel...


There are a few slabs out there without any reinforcing.

It is not that many years ago that you were able to pour a house floor without any mesh if it was engineered. I have built a couple.

[flyingcrocodile46]

It is not that many years ago that you were able to pour a house floor without any mesh if it was engineered. I have built a couple.

Yes and no. Specific engineering wasn't required. Up to around mid 2011 (when NZS3604 was last revised) it was perfectly acceptable for single story homes to have concrete floors without reinforcing mesh (only a perimeter D12 edge bar was required). However, that was only supposed to apply if the ground was deemed to be "good ground" (Not expansive clay like 90+% of Auckland is composed of).:rolleyes:

[Laava]

Yes and no. Specific engineering wasn't required. Up to around mid 2011 (when NZS3604 was last revised) it was perfectly acceptable for single story homes to have concrete floors without reinforcing mesh (only a perimeter D12 edge bar was required). However, that was only supposed to apply if the ground was deemed to be "good ground" (Not expansive clay like 90+% of Auckland is composed of).:rolleyes:

Exactly my point. You need an engineers report.

[Swoop]

Exactly my point. You need an engineers report.

But not from Mr Wong or Mr Patel...

[Akzle]

But not from Mr Wong or Mr Patel...

actually, one of the best geotechs iv worked with was (miscellaneous azn decent) probably japanese.
Shook his head a lot at us "kiwi cowboys" and our rules.
Fucken knowledgabl, responsive, quick intelligence. Better than arf the "kiwis" that turn up. "ah you're a good cunt and you look like you know what you're doing, so i dont REALLY need to inspect this, eh"

mixed bag though. I've had two jobs moved <50mm cos of boundary disputes!

Like, fuck you there goes a weeks work.

Injuns can go fuck themselves though. There's only one that i like that i havent had sex with, the rest... Fuck injuns.

[SPman]

yes or no. It wasnt that long ago in dorkland that the chineses were getting pre-line inspections signed off.

...then going back and removing every second stud and half the nogs, (to be reused at the next house) before whacking up gib and fucking off. Nothing new - I new a Swedish chippie on the North Shore in the 70's who used to do that, and a Maori foundation guy who would have the footings inspected, then remove all the steel and take it to the next job! .......eventually, after a landslip that took out some of a house foundation, it came to official attention, but, he was dead by then........all guys called Tom, strangely enough.........

[flyingcrocodile46]

But not from Mr Wong or Mr Patel...

While it's true that there are some naughty engineers out there they are often weeded out. Akld council keeps an 'approved author' register which they very recently cleaned up to remove a dozen or so registered producer statement authors incl several Cpeng Reg Engineers who were flagged as struck off the register. I have occasion to look at it just about every day. I don't recall seeing any Asian engineers struck off or flagged as under investigation.:whistle:

[flyingcrocodile46]

Nothing new - I new a Swedish chippie on the North Shore in the 70's who used to do that, and a Maori foundation guy who would have the footings inspected, then remove all the steel and take it to the next job! .......eventually, after a landslip that took out some of a house foundation, it came to official attention, but, he was dead by then........all guys called Tom, strangely enough.........

The craft has greatly diversified. The following are just a teeny tiny fraction of my personal observations of common cheats (most of which were fully rectified)
Over filled slab fill topped with flat/level concrete floors that reduce to 30mm thick in the middle (mesh removed because it sticks out of the concrete)
50mm long holding down bolts
50mm long stringer bolts
Inappropriately treated exterior deck framing
Undersized piles and/or pile pads
Seriously over-span framing (studs, joists, rafters, lintels & beams)
Stucco plaster sans mesh (often because of the need to reduce thickness to maintain plane)
100% of bottom story wall framing absent even a single continuous stud (because firewood is cheap)

I gotta stop :sick:

[sheddy]

Hey Flying croc.
I really appreciate your thoughts and time taken to engage with this building thing. Thanks to the rest of you guys too.
I think I need to go block basement and want 18m x 10 meters with 2.4m height [maybe 2.7]. Can I afford it who knows ... the bank will set me up . The section lends itself to having the long back wall, block retaining as then a vehicle park could be put in for the mrs as she drives in up and around the back of the house. That way the section will be better utilised. soil/drainage/fill height will be filled to level with entry to rear of house sitting on the basement. plus it will keep the Rav4 away from the chev lol.
My thoughts are mancave with small bathroom in the basement and 2 to 3 double sectional doors on the garage front. basement wont be high enough for a car hoist though I dont think. Unless the house is a bit shorter and I could raise the roof one end. Now were talking.
If the basic house is say about 120m2 that might work. :laugh: shed first house later but dont tell the cook.. nah only kidding look after the cook too.

[Grumph]

My thoughts are mancave with small bathroom in the basement and 2 to 3 double sectional doors on the garage front. basement wont be high enough for a car hoist though I dont think. Unless the house is a bit shorter and I could raise the roof one end. Now were talking.
If the basic house is say about 120m2 that might work. :laugh: shed first house later but dont tell the cook.. nah only kidding look after the cook too.

Couple of houses back we were in a 1 1/2 story built on a poured reinforced concrete garage plus small workshop. Set into the slope on the Port Hills above ChCh. Had a garage feature you don't see much now - a pit. Very handy too. Bit more work doing it but worth it.
FWIW I'm told the house lost the blockwork from the 1st storey in the quakes but has been redone now. The lower bunker survived well, lol.

[swarfie]

Couple of houses back we were in a 1 1/2 story built on a poured reinforced concrete garage plus small workshop. Set into the slope on the Port Hills above ChCh. Had a garage feature you don't see much now - a pit. Very handy too. Bit more work doing it but worth it.
FWIW I'm told the house lost the blockwork from the 1st storey in the quakes but has been redone now. The lower bunker survived well, lol.

Our last house had a garage with a pit. The missus reckons she has to tear two wheels off the cage in order for me to work on it....so it was just a storage hole:killingme

[Akzle]

pits are nesty things to work in. (whoops, work, what AM i thinking, i mean, smoke weed and cash dole cheques in)
and remember CO is denser than air.

Far better with ramps. Coupley 44gal drums and some welded up angle iron.

Or, go off a cliff, with piles.

[Akzle]

I think I need to go block basement and want 18m x 10 meters with 2.4m height [maybe 2.7]. Can I afford it who knows ... the bank will set me up . The section lends itself to having the long back wall, block retaining as then a vehicle park

the bank will fuck you up.

One way i'm seeing, especially if you're parking up top, is to have a second slab at the higher level also tied into the "retaining" as that really is a helluve span to spring off the lower slab.
May also need piles under the top one to act as anchors.
This is if you're not slabbing over your garage

Deffo an engineering job though.

Also, go 2.8 (2.7 doesnt happen with blocks unless you get a gay size or do a half course).

[Swoop]

While it's true that there are some naughty engineers out there...
Nah. These were the "developers/workers" doing the shady. You know the ones, buying a bit of dirt and doing the whole build all by themselves.
I'm watching a real dodgy one on the North Shore that looks palatial from the outside... Wouldn't want to be within 100metres of it in an earthquake or strong wind though.

Did you know that you can fix a 5m long weatherboard in place with Qty:2 nails?
Oh, and some paint on top?

[sidecar bob]

Re car hoists, I just measured a couple of mine that have cars right to the top overnight. You will need 3 metres ceiling height to get a standard sedan to the top of the hoist, vans a lot more. if you cant stand fully upright under the car on the hoist, then you are better off without one.
I know guys with low ceilings that have tripwires to turn the hoist off when the car is just off the ceiling, its a fairly poor option.

[Akzle]

Re car hoists, I just measured a couple of mine that have cars right to the top overnight. You will need 3 metres ceiling height to get a standard sedan to the top of the hoist, vans a lot more. if you cant stand fully upright under the car on the hoist, then you are better off without one.
I know guys with low ceilings that have tripwires to turn the hoist off when the car is just off the ceiling, its a fairly poor option.

3m is only 1 more course of blocks from 2.8.
Working on a wheelie chair is way more better than standing up though.

[sheddy]

Hey chaps. It looks like I may have a section deal going down. Geotech report to happen. Now if the report is good I will need to start talking to a lawyer to sort the contract then Architect, engineer, council or builder. Which one first. Or should I just take my house concept to some of the Waikato outfits building moderately priced homes. OHH and a darn Bank..... All the banks seem much of a muchness many have good people, but its the policy and rules they get constarined by. Ive got accounts with BNZ ANZ and the plastic with Kiwi bank.To borrow money to build the house I guess I need to show a valuer the concept plans. Anyone been through this initial phase recently. I should have just on the 20% deposit. Are new homes in waikato 10 or 20% deposit.
I definitely am hoping to get the basement 18m x10m so there is room for cars workshop and mancave. It needs to be insulated as id like the cars and my Harley to stay warm enough condensation doesn't form after winter runs.
any recommendations. Anyone dealt with latitude homes or competitive homes.
Thanks

[flyingcrocodile46]

Hey chaps. It looks like I may have a section deal going down. Geotech report to happen. Now if the report is good I will need to start talking to a lawyer to sort the contract then Architect, engineer, council or builder. Which one first. Or should I just take my house concept to some of the Waikato outfits building moderately priced homes. OHH and a darn Bank..... All the banks seem much of a muchness many have good people, but its the policy and rules they get constarined by. Ive got accounts with BNZ ANZ and the plastic with Kiwi bank.To borrow money to build the house I guess I need to show a valuer the concept plans. Anyone been through this initial phase recently. I should have just on the 20% deposit. Are new homes in waikato 10 or 20% deposit.
I definitely am hoping to get the basement 18m x10m so there is room for cars workshop and mancave. It needs to be insulated as id like the cars and my Harley to stay warm enough condensation doesn't form after winter runs.
any recommendations. Anyone dealt with latitude homes or competitive homes.
Thanks

Your best bet (if you can find the right builder) is to do the design and consent through the builder. A good builder will use a cheap draughtsperson guided by the builder to avoid expensive design features. Rather than you using an expensive architect who tells you that his design will only cost $x to build, only to find out during the consent and/or tender process that it will really cost you $xxxx and that it is simply un-affordable without major re-design (a very common occurrence).

Finding the right builder is the trick as they are few and far between imo. Unless you want to spend big $, steer clear of good builders who have won lots of awards. As a general rule, group housing companies provide good value for money when you use their design, but the moment you start changing things (often even little things) the price starts to rocket. They are usually very expensive when building something different to their standard designs.

Ask around the local supply merchants, and people who have recently had builds done. Also sub contractors often know who the good (under the radar) builders are (who often don't advertise but just quietly get on with it).

Unless you heat your garage the potential for condensation won't go away simply by installing insulation. An open carport with plenty of roof cover (to prevent driving rain from being a problem) and loads of ventilation prevents condensation and rusting better than a fully enclosed garage (unless you ventilate the garage well, or condition the air to keep it well below saturation point). Heating the air increases the uptake of moisture vapor, but it will dump the moisture vapor over cold surfaces when the temperature drops. Ventilation or dehumidifiers are best for moisture vapor control. However ventilation (and more particularly heating) would benefit from insulation as it would help offset the heat loss caused by the introduction of colder exterior air. Don't ventilate the garage from the roof space as the moisture vapor level within the roof space is a lot higher than within or outside of the house.

[Akzle]

as above^^


builder *or project manager.

Goldenhomes etc have LMU plans, which is why it's cheap.
Extensions/modification/additions require reconsenting. Redrafting etc. And yes, add up very quick. Going with your own design: forget it.

[Akzle]

process is builder/+architect > engineer > architect > council > slabber > (inspections etc) > blocky > builder

a p.m. Will know the, people, order, and make sure every nigga is where they should be when needed.

[sheddy]

Whats an LMU and how do you find a project manager. Would that be your builder.
Now if you want a change to internal walls is that an issue as well. Surely from the hundreds of variation people request to suit their own needs put to people such as Golden homes, they probably have already built something pretty much as you want previously that has been consented?

[BMWST?]

Whats an LMU and how do you find a project manager. Would that be your builder.
Now if you want a change to internal walls is that an issue as well. Surely from the hundreds of variation people request to suit their own needs put to people such as Golden homes, they probably have already built something pretty much as you want previously that has been consented?

each site must have it own consent as no site is the same as next door.Unless you build exactly the same house as next door.A concrete block basement will have very good structural and quite good insulation values.What you need to do is go a couple of group builders,and look at their plans,and pick one which will give you your basement.18x10 is a huge open space and will give you 180 sq metres thats a bloody big house in itself! 18 m is at least 3 cars long 10m is 3 cars wide with plenty of room between.Then you use one of their std plans on top of something that will be very easy to design.The only real unknown is the ground bearing of the site.Once that is known an engineer can easily design your garage/retaining wall.
That big garage wont be cheap

[Akzle]

Whats an LMU and how do you find a project manager. Would that be your builder.
Now if you want a change to internal walls is that an issue as well. Surely from the hundreds of variation people request to suit their own needs put to people such as Golden homes, they probably have already built something pretty much as you want previously that has been consented?

sorry, nmu, or "multiproof" = pre-approved floor/structure plans that, as the name implies, are certed for multiple use, ie they build the same house again and again and again.
Any variation = not nmu, = specific design.

Depending on roof bearing requirements, moving a wall could be a major, or not.

A builder may be p.m. Or not.

[husaberg]

Hey team.
I dont really want to build a new house, due to the bureaucracy that will engage. But here in Morrinsville its very hard to buy a house that fits my needs. The Auckland expanse seems to have arrived here as well.Hence considering building. Has anyone recently built a house that sits on top of a concrete garage with back wall as retaining.
Im looking for tips and info help for this "possible " project. My plan is to build a full length block /tilt slab garage say 18m long and around 8-9m deep. Back wall needs to be against a 3m bank. so moisture barrier etc would be needed on back and side walls. Then I'm thinking of putting a transportable home or similar on top of this basement garage. What would be the best way to roof the garage [say 2.4m stud] to support a single story home with a good deck area.
Okay so this is a big garage at least 6 cars and with luck a man cave with good workshop space. 130 M2 transportable homes are in the 250k area. Block basement might cost 100k ???
Can anyone point me in the right direction. Id appreciate it . I need to move my XB12XT on as well as I need to consolidate the toy box.
Thanks

From what you are writing what you want to build is colloquially known as a Carriage.
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=carriage+house+plans&safe=strict&biw=1536&bih=762&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjE477HpqvLAhXCkJQKHeuiApwQ_AUIBygB
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=carriage+house+plans&safe=strict&biw=1536&bih=762&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjE477HpqvLAhXCkJQKHeuiApwQ_AUIBygB#safe =strict&tbm=isch&q=carriage+house+drawings+blueprints
http://www.behmdesign.com/apartment_garage_plans.aspx
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=apartment+over+garage+plans&safe=strict&biw=1536&bih=762&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwifuLrkqqvLAhUBQ5QKHe88BKMQsAQIGQ#imgrc= altIaX9u69C3jM%3A
Try googling plans for one. Find what you want then get it engineered to suit the NZ regs.
Have you been watching reruns of Happy Days.

[flyingcrocodile46]

Whats an LMU and how do you find a project manager. Would that be your builder.
Now if you want a change to internal walls is that an issue as well. Surely from the hundreds of variation people request to suit their own needs put to people such as Golden homes, they probably have already built something pretty much as you want previously that has been consented?

Stick with a good builder and you won't need or benefit from a PM. While project managers can save you money by avoiding fuckups (or at least the cost of some of them if you are acting as the main contractor) and by managing the client (to ensure timely decisions), as far a simple builds go, the only thing they add is cost and really aren't warranted if you have a full 'turn key' contract with a good builder.

You would think group housing companies could accommodate cost effective variations but that is seldom the case. What you appear to want is completely different from the designs that group housing companies are geared for (irrespective of whether it is simpler or more complex), they (staff and contractors) just aren't geared for it, though there are some exceptions and it is probably worth exploring the option. They know their limitations and price variations so as to avoid them. (hate them like the plague, but would seldom admit that to the clients)

Someone else made a good point about the size of your build. Do you know what you are getting yourself into cost wise? If the area of the house (above the garage) is to equal the size of the garage you are in for a big bill. 180 x $1500m2 (min) + 180 x$ 850m2 (min) = $423,000 just for the build (that's cheap). It could cost anywhere up to double that (depending of design and specification). That's why I threw in the suggestion regarding the cheaper free standing timber pole retaining wall and pole house foundation wrapped up with wall framing). Sloping sites are subject to soil creep (at minimum) and often require down-slope piling of the leading edge foundations (or in-ground barrier retaining walls) for concrete floor slabs as well as the retaining walls. Pole foundations are simply extended down another 2 or 3 metres to achieve the same effect.

Also, you don't want to be paying $2k or $3K for a geotech report for every site you look at. If the owners want to sell the properties you should be putting it back on them to verify the buildability of the properties by working with a geotech engineer to identify the likely building platform and carrying out three or four borehole tests etc. They only pay the one time and can add the cost to their price (for them it is guaranteed cost recovery). Many property owners do this before they market the property so they know what they are selling.

[sheddy]

Whoa, back up the bus a bit...
When I can get my scanner to work after windows 10 has now "possesed" it, Ill show you a sketch. You may well be right and I wont be able to afford it. Now think transportable house on top of basement. transportable house 8m x18m [144m2]for say 270-280k leaving a two meter deck running along the front of the house above the front of the basement. Maybe I can only afford 18 x8 and not 10m garage depth.
transportable either lifted on after wards 2 big cranes??/ weight is probably not an issue. Slinging a load like that could be.. Or jack up transportable and build basement underneath.
The block basement with several garage doors along the front would cost more than 100k???
Keep the info coming guys its really helpful to me and hopefully others too. Oh just in case you wondering how much the section is when my contract is finalised Ill give you an indication but it will be less than 200k. its not Auckland thank the stars.

How do I insert a jpeg image?

[Akzle]

The block basement with several garage doors along the front would cost more than 100k???


easily .

[Akzle]

well. In saying that. Cost of materials and time, no.
Cost of compliance and design, yeah.

[ellipsis]

...find a house...build a shed...put a fence around the whole lot to keep the vermin out...put a Yunca Wegj burner in it hooked up to a 270 ltr cylinder...get some chooks...sussed...

[sheddy]

Ellipsis may be onto it if you live in bush country up north or in central regions. Near city's and main towns the old council fellas generally are bit stricter on the "shed". Hey Im with that up to a point , I think the councils and insurance bodies have damn near screwed family homes for the common man. The restrictions are way to great now and the whole "industry of bureaucracy" has moved to insanity. Im not disrespecting professionals in the building industry at all, people are generally doing a good job be it sparkies or council employees.I just think we should still be allowed to do more ourselves. The cost to income ratio is insane now for homes. We have the banks to blame for a good part of this, they may be starting to squeal a bit now interest rates are dropping. I laugh at people who say "I got big money for my old place". You sure did, but what did you borrow to get into your new place.
Id like to say I'm excited about looking to build a house, I'm not no way. I will have to borrow lots of money and spend the rest of my working life trying to get the monkey of my back.
I do want to have my own place as it means I control my own destiny. If my landlord sells I'm stuffed. Rentals in my town are few and far between, if a house has a roof on it, its sold in a week if its even close to affordable. Thank goodness my landlord is a top bloke and gives me a fair deal. Many others are not so lucky.
They are probably not far off the mark the pundits who reckon house prices will drop in around mid 2020's. Supply may have caught up a bit and unfortunately for some of us boomers we will be heading for the "big ride in the sky".
The government has recklessly allowed immigration to skew the economy into a very awkward place. It could easily have been fixed by having a rule that unless its your family home you have to build new. Simple problem fixed. The building industry would have been able to gear up in a more stable way.
I'm not anti immigration as that would be hypocritical of all of us who arrived after 1800. However, immigration at a rate the country can cater for without undue hardship for many would be fair and reasonable.
So we will build a new home if the section deal comes through and yes I hope I can get my big garage in the budget. Hey I will enjoy it when its done. I commiserate with any of you who are working your asses off trying to get ahead. the banks and the government don't give a rats how hard it is for you. If you are the elite and made good decisions in the past have lots of property investments and are "raking" in the rent , fair enough you have worked hard too, but spare a thought for the younger generation and those who arn't as well educated. When I started work there were jobs for all of us who wanted to work, now you might want to work but machines have replaced thousands of jobs and continue to do so. You used to be able to drive a truck if you enjoyed that line of work, now you need a PHD in transport management to get you truck licence. Long haul drivers may be gone in another 10-15 years trucks will be driving themselves from A to B.
Okay so its a bit of rant. You wonder why crime features so much, if you haven't got a job and you are fairly fit with no money of course your at risk of going to the dark side.
Oh well back to work tomorrow I hope you all have a good day, and my thoughts are with you if your back is to the wall. I hope some how you get a decent break soon. Are you asleep yet...

[Akzle]

Ellipsis may be onto it if you live in bush country up north or in central regions. Near city's and main towns the old council fellas generally are bit stricter on the "shed". Hey Im with that up to a point , I think the councils and insurance bodies have damn near screwed family homes for the common man. The restrictions are way to great now and the whole "industry of bureaucracy" has moved to insanity. Im not disrespecting professionals in the building industry at all, people are generally doing a good job be it sparkies or council employees.I just think we should still be allowed to do more ourselves. The cost to income ratio is insane now for homes. We have the banks to blame for a good part of this, they may be starting to squeal a bit now interest rates are dropping. I laugh at people who say "I got big money for my old place". You sure did, but what did you borrow to get into your new place.
Id like to say I'm excited about looking to build a house, I'm not no way. I will have to borrow lots of money and spend the rest of my working life trying to get the monkey of my back.
I do want to have my own place as it means I control my own destiny. If my landlord sells I'm stuffed. Rentals in my town are few and far between, if a house has a roof on it, its sold in a week if its even close to affordable. Thank goodness my landlord is a top bloke and gives me a fair deal. Many others are not so lucky.
They are probably not far off the mark the pundits who reckon house prices will drop in around mid 2020's. Supply may have caught up a bit and unfortunately for some of us boomers we will be heading for the "big ride in the sky".
The government has recklessly allowed immigration to skew the economy into a very awkward place. It could easily have been fixed by having a rule that unless its your family home you have to build new. Simple problem fixed. The building industry would have been able to gear up in a more stable way.
I'm not anti immigration as that would be hypocritical of all of us who arrived after 1800. However, immigration at a rate the country can cater for without undue hardship for many would be fair and reasonable.
So we will build a new home if the section deal comes through and yes I hope I can get my big garage in the budget. Hey I will enjoy it when its done. I commiserate with any of you who are working your asses off trying to get ahead. the banks and the government don't give a rats how hard it is for you. If you are the elite and made good decisions in the past have lots of property investments and are "raking" in the rent , fair enough you have worked hard too, but spare a thought for the younger generation and those who arn't as well educated. When I started work there were jobs for all of us who wanted to work, now you might want to work but machines have replaced thousands of jobs and continue to do so. You used to be able to drive a truck if you enjoyed that line of work, now you need a PHD in transport management to get you truck licence. Long haul drivers may be gone in another 10-15 years trucks will be driving themselves from A to B.
Okay so its a bit of rant. You wonder why crime features so much, if you haven't got a job and you are fairly fit with no money of course your at risk of going to the dark side.
Oh well back to work tomorrow I hope you all have a good day, and my thoughts are with you if your back is to the wall. I hope some how you get a decent break soon. Are you asleep yet...

vote akzle

[sheddy]

Does anyone know the answer to this question.

If I am renting and can't afford a house that isn't available to buy in my area, can I buy in another area and rent it out until I want to move into it at a later date. By owning only one house am I an investor or a home buyer who can't yet live in the house I have purchased. [Obviously my last plan failed to materialise]
Please dont reply if your just looking for an excuse to get your post numbers up. It won't be helpful.

[russd7]

Does anyone know the answer to this question.

If I am renting and can't afford a house that isn't available to buy in my area, can I buy in another area and rent it out until I want to move into it at a later date. By owning only one house am I an investor or a home buyer who can't yet live in the house I have purchased. [Obviously my last plan failed to materialise]
Please dont reply if your just looking for an excuse to get your post numbers up. It won't be helpful.

best thing you can do is talk to a mortgage broker, and an accountant would be my next guess. ya don't know anythin till ya start asking those that shuld know.

[WNJ]

Does anyone know the answer to this question.

If I am renting and can't afford a house that isn't available to buy in my area, can I buy in another area and rent it out until I want to move into it at a later date. By owning only one house am I an investor or a home buyer who can't yet live in the house I have purchased. [Obviously my last plan failed to materialise]
Please dont reply if your just looking for an excuse to get your post numbers up. It won't be helpful.

Yes you can buy in another area and you will not be considered an investor as it is the only house you own, then you become a landlord and with that can come problems like maintaining a property in another town ( if not in the same area it can be a hassle ), dodgy tenants cooking meth? (Top $$ to decontaminate) worth the risk?? But if you get a solid house, good tenants then it no problems from my experience ,

[sheddy]

I manged to buy a house in the end after much stress and deliberation.
my landlord of 8 years sold his other property and wants to move into my place. He is a top bloke and gave me 5 months warning so that was decent of him. Now the strange bit. Its still really hard to find A a rental close to Morrinsville and B nearly impossible if you own a dog or cat and you need a garage for your bikes. Now I have been looking for the last 5 years for something useful and affordable with stuff all luck to buy:brick:. Now that my back is to the wall so to speak my other half was freaking out as "what are we going to do" and I must admit i was concerned as well in the current market. I put ads in the local paper, went to the local agents and in the current market not much turned up. Nearly every house for sale has 5 people chasing it immediately.
Then I had a thought about a trademe deal i did with a guy a couple of months back and remembered he said they were thinking of selling their place. At the time it wasn't in my search area, but hey now i'm in the crap... I couldn't even remember how good or bad the place was. long story short I approached them again and they said come and have a look and it turned out it really is quite a cool house just further from our workplace. We offered a fair price, they considered it and then counter offered at a very reasonable price. we now have a deal done and somewhere to go.
Moral of the story, Don't give up even when you think your on a hiding to nothing. When one door closes another one opens and phew thank goodness for that as at the current time its not a nice place to be dispossesed in our current market that has alienated many kiwis from housing opportunities. Good on ya national.... the opposition won't be any better probably but by jeez I wouldnt vote for you at the next election whatever you bribe us with now. Slow down the immigration and let the damn country catch up... :bash:

[caseye]

I manged to buy a house in the end after much stress and deliberation.
my landlord of 8 years sold his other property and wants to move into my place. He is a top bloke and gave me 5 months warning so that was decent of him. Now the strange bit. Its still really hard to find A a rental close to Morrinsville and B nearly impossible if you own a dog or cat and you need a garage for your bikes. Now I have been looking for the last 5 years for something useful and affordable with stuff all luck to buy:brick:. Now that my back is to the wall so to speak my other half was freaking out as "what are we going to do" and I must admit i was concerned as well in the current market. I put ads in the local paper, went to the local agents and in the current market not much turned up. Nearly every house for sale has 5 people chasing it immediately.
Then I had a thought about a trademe deal i did with a guy a couple of months back and remembered he said they were thinking of selling their place. At the time it wasn't in my search area, but hey now i'm in the crap... I couldn't even remember how good or bad the place was. long story short I approached them again and they said come and have a look and it turned out it really is quite a cool house just further from our workplace. We offered a fair price, they considered it and then counter offered at a very reasonable price. we now have a deal done and somewhere to go.
Moral of the story, Don't give up even when you think your on a hiding to nothing. When one door closes another one opens and phew thank goodness for that as at the current time its not a nice place to be dispossesed in our current market that has alienated many kiwis from housing opportunities. Good on ya national.... the opposition won't be any better probably but by jeez I wouldnt vote for you at the next election whatever you bribe us with now. Slow down the immigration and let the damn country catch up... :bash:

Glad you managed to pull that one off.
Consider though, before you don't vote National this year.
Who in the fuck you are going to vote for.
Any other party or cobbled together dodgy alliance is only going to plunge us all into oblivion.

[Akzle]

Glad you managed to pull that one off.
Consider though, before you don't vote National this year.
Who in the fuck you are going to vote for.
Any other party or cobbled together dodgy alliance is only going to plunge us all into oblivion.

:whistle: vote akzle

[husaberg]

Glad you managed to pull that one off.
Consider though, before you don't vote National this year.
Who in the fuck you are going to vote for.
Any other party or cobbled together dodgy alliance is only going to plunge us all into oblivion.

Caseye do National party United Future, Act party and Maori party ring any bells.
Or do i need to go back further?
The National-New Zealand First Coalition 1996? Jenny Shipley one year later staged a caucus room coup and overthrew Bolger as prime minister. Later Shipley sacked Peters. Some New Zealand First MPs, led by Tau Henare formed another new party called Mauri Pacific, then along with Alliance MP, Alamein Kopu formed a another new coalition with National.

[BMWST?]

I manged to buy a house in the end after much stress and deliberation.
my landlord of 8 years sold his other property and wants to move into my place. He is a top bloke and gave me 5 months warning so that was decent of him. Now the strange bit. Its still really hard to find A a rental close to Morrinsville and B nearly impossible if you own a dog or cat and you need a garage for your bikes. Now I have been looking for the last 5 years for something useful and affordable with stuff all luck to buy:brick:. Now that my back is to the wall so to speak my other half was freaking out as "what are we going to do" and I must admit i was concerned as well in the current market. I put ads in the local paper, went to the local agents and in the current market not much turned up. Nearly every house for sale has 5 people chasing it immediately.
Then I had a thought about a trademe deal i did with a guy a couple of months back and remembered he said they were thinking of selling their place. At the time it wasn't in my search area, but hey now i'm in the crap... I couldn't even remember how good or bad the place was. long story short I approached them again and they said come and have a look and it turned out it really is quite a cool house just further from our workplace. We offered a fair price, they considered it and then counter offered at a very reasonable price. we now have a deal done and somewhere to go.
Moral of the story, Don't give up even when you think your on a hiding to nothing. When one door closes another one opens and phew thank goodness for that as at the current time its not a nice place to be dispossesed in our current market that has alienated many kiwis from housing opportunities. Good on ya national.... the opposition won't be any better probably but by jeez I wouldnt vote for you at the next election whatever you bribe us with now. Slow down the immigration and let the damn country catch up... :bash:
You left out the most important peice.How big and what is the garage?Well done mate!

[sheddy]

Hey guys, thanks for all the input on my journey back into debt.
Now since the bank is comfortable that all things being equal I can pay back my loan, they might give me a bit more to fund a shed, I have a basic double garage workshop on the place, but like my namesake a bigger shed must be on the menu.
I have quotes from Durabilt sheds Azteck and waiting on a fair dunkum quote. Does any one have a shed preference among this lot, They all look good two are all steel sheds and the Aztek is pole design. Hoping to get a 12-14m x9m by approx 3m knee height gable give or take, Interestingly the pole shed is a bit more expensive. The shed is in a "high " wind zone
Akzle give up no ones going to vote for you lol.

[husaberg]

Hey guys, thanks for all the input on my journey back into debt.
Now since the bank is comfortable that all things being equal I can pay back my loan, they might give me a bit more to fund a shed, I have a basic double garage workshop on the place, but like my namesake a bigger shed must be on the menu.
I have quotes from Durabilt sheds Azteck and waiting on a fair dunkum quote. Does any one have a shed preference among this lot, They all look good two are all steel sheds and the Aztek is pole design. Hoping to get a 12-14m x9m by approx 3m knee height gable give or take, Interestingly the pole shed is a bit more expensive. The shed is in a "high " wind zone
Akzle give up no ones going to vote for you lol.

Try these fellas
http://shedboss.co.nz/free-online-quote/

[Laava]

Try these fellas
http://shedboss.co.nz/free-online-quote/

I can usually build a pole construction shed finished for approximately the same as a steel shed kitset price. To qualify that a bit better, I am talking about a farm style shed with bays of approx 4.5m and 9m wide. The length doesn't matter, but multiples of 4.2-4.5m. That does not include permit costs. I would look at Greenwood farm buildings for kitset for pole construction

[husaberg]

I can usually build a pole construction shed finished for approximately the same as a steel shed kitset price. To qualify that a bit better, I am talking about a farm style shed with bays of approx 4.5m and 9m wide. The length doesn't matter, but multiples of 4.2-4.5m. That does not include permit costs. I would look at Greenwood farm buildings for kitset for pole construction

I would well believe that, we used to throw up barns for buggar all with Hardwood poles and Doug fir for the rest with seconds of long run.
Until the building inspectors got all prissy over the hardwood poles.
But they still take a bit of skill, where as a steel kit is pretty hard to buggar up unless you don't get the base square. ( i seen that once they fought it all the way.:weird:)
Then tried to blame the kitset.:laugh:
Goldpine here in the south used to offer deals on barn kitsets that were incredibly cheap for what you got. Maybe he should wait until feildays.

[Akzle]

. Does any one have a shed preference among this lot, They all look good two are all steel sheds and the Aztek is pole design. Hoping to get a 12-14m x9m by approx 3m knee height gable give or take, Interestingly the pole shed is a bit more expensive. The shed is in a "high " wind zone
Akzle give up no ones going to vote for you lol.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/a3/80/7e/a3807e09afab6d37ff5352a270a467b4.jpg

pole shed slightly easier for you if you want to retrofit shelves and shit.
windzone doesnt matter a fuck and whoevers speccing it will just uprate your rafter ties and cladding fixings and shit.

havent heard of any of those companies, but cruise your hood and look at what other people have up and ask them who, how much, and what they don't like about it.

[sheddy]

Okay guys there are some good shed companies out there.
Durobuilt has anyone got one, know of one in Waikato. How good are the sheds and their people...
Thanks

[pipe]

Okay guys there are some good shed companies out there.
Durobuilt has anyone got one, know of one in Waikato. How good are the sheds and their people...
Thanks

Built a 15m X 12m Durobuilt shed brought it as a kitset and put it up with my builder.
Good company and good product. Better then a total span shed but you do pay a bit more.
As mentioned above get the pad right and everything will go well.
Neighbor up the road did one as well and seems happy

[sheddy]

Thanks for the update Pipe appreciated. Do you know what the differences to total span are. Is it something to do with footings or is it structure.

[Akzle]

Thanks for the update Pipe appreciated. Do you know what the differences to total span are. Is it something to do with footings or is it structure.

totalspan are 98% fucking retards

[pipe]

Thanks for the update Pipe appreciated. Do you know what the differences to total span are. Is it something to do with footings or is it structure.

From Memory cladding was cladding was slightly thicker .3 vs .35mm(@2011. i see that durobuild now at .4mm) and the portals were a lot stronger, builder did a totalspan shed after mine and commented on the differences in strength including having to center prop the roof on the totalspan so they could walk on it while putting roof on.