New headlight tech

[nzspokes]

I think this is cool. Price tag is pretty up there though.

http://www.gizmag.com/jw-speaker-adaptive-matrix-8790-cornering-headlight-review/41191/

[AllanB]

Cool post thanks. Great simple application - make it so on all.

Best quote The highest additional beam on each side only angles up about 30 degrees from horizontal, and I think another 10 or 15 degrees would be helpful. Then again, 7 inches is a common Harley size, and 30 degrees might be more than enough for the cruiser crowd.

[nzspokes]

Cool post thanks. Great simple application - make it so on all.

Best quote The highest additional beam on each side only angles up about 30 degrees from horizontal, and I think another 10 or 15 degrees would be helpful. Then again, 7 inches is a common Harley size, and 30 degrees might be more than enough for the cruiser crowd.

I guess if it works out ok then the idea will be improved on. In saying that at night I tend not to go fast enough to need big lean angles. But if the lights better then the faster you will go.....

[Night Falcon]

Nice bit of kit.....you'll get to see the possoms on the side of the road better before runnin em over .

[Bass]

Presumably this setup has a lean angle sensor of some sort. Can anyone tell me how they work.
On a bike, in theory at least, the cornering forces resolve so as to act down a line joining the bike's C of G to the tire contact patch. So some sort of pendulum device won't work.
I suppose that some sort of G meter might work: higher G forces = harder cornering = more lean, but that's just guesswork.
How is it done?

[Saarg]

This might be of interest
http://youtu.be/U5Typ14RQr4



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Tazz]

Unless it goes up and down as well as side to side it's useless.

[EJK]

Unless it goes up and down as well as side to side it's useless.

And flashes in different colours synchronised to my MP3 music.

[Tazz]

And flashes in different colours synchronised to my MP3 music.

Oh yeahhhhh!



http://cdn.leanblog.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/disco-stu.gif

Seriously though, I've tinkered with AUX lighting for pointing into corners and unless it's got a massive spread, or you ride exclusively on the flat, it's almost a waste of time. Having something mounted to your helmet is the tits, other than the problems that come with having something mounted to your helmet :laugh:

[Gremlin]

Seriously though, I've tinkered with AUX lighting for pointing into corners and unless it's got a massive spread, or you ride exclusively on the flat, it's almost a waste of time.
I've mounted a set of Denali D1 (about 10W per spot) on the front, angled up and out. I didn't think they were doing much until I removed them... they were quite effective at lighting up the hole when cornering.

Otherwise, just add more lights. Only issue is when you have to turn them off for oncoming vehicles, then it's like you've got nothing at all :eek5:

[nzspokes]

Wonder if you could make a switch system with tip sensors?

[Gremlin]

Wonder if you could make a switch system with tip sensors?
Mine were simply linked to high beam. Low beam was main headlight and 2 spots on minimum power. High beam back then was low and high factory beams, 2 spots on max power and the angled spots as well. All controlled with the flick of the high beam switch.

[EJK]

Oh yeahhhhh!

[CENTER]
Seriously though, I've tinkered with AUX lighting for pointing into corners and unless it's got a massive spread, or you ride exclusively on the flat, it's almost a waste of time. Having something mounted to your helmet is the tits, other than the problems that come with having something mounted to your helmet :laugh:

Or on your tits is the tits.


http://sarahadowney.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Mary-Swanson-headlights.jpg

[bogan]

Presumably this setup has a lean angle sensor of some sort. Can anyone tell me how they work.
On a bike, in theory at least, the cornering forces resolve so as to act down a line joining the bike's C of G to the tire contact patch. So some sort of pendulum device won't work.
I suppose that some sort of G meter might work: higher G forces = harder cornering = more lean, but that's just guesswork.
How is it done?

MEMs gyro and accelrometers, combination thereof are call 6dof IMUs https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=sparkfun+6dof+imu&gws_rd=cr&ei=V-DPVrCtC8zD0gS9nbZg

You could just use a single axis gyro, but you really need the accelerometers to make it go back to zero.


Wonder if you could make a switch system with tip sensors?

You'd probably want a soft fill when they turn on, unexpected bright lights may do as much harm as help.

I reckon just put the whole reflector assembly on a bushing within the bucket, and servo drive it.

[eldog]

Mine were simply linked to high beam. Low beam was main headlight and 2 spots on minimum power. High beam back then was low and high factory beams, 2 spots on max power and the angled spots as well. All controlled with the flick of the high beam switch.
Sounds like a good system, well worth the effort....... BMW or Honda??

[eldog]

MEMs gyro and accelrometers, combination thereof are call 6dof IMUs https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=sparkfun+6dof+imu&gws_rd=cr&ei=V-DPVrCtC8zD0gS9nbZg

You could just use a single axis gyro, but you really need the accelerometers to make it go back to zero.



You'd probably want a soft fill when they turn on, unexpected bright lights may do as much harm as help.

I reckon just put the whole reflector assembly on a bushing within the bucket, and servo drive it.
Multiple reed switches, one for each level
or a pivoting shield covering extra LEDs
some sort of LED shield between lights and outside of lamp to stop light passing through
KISS otherwise :brick:later

[nzspokes]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

[eldog]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

High beam usually wired to hi/low dimmer switch and pass, would need to separate or add separate switch/relay for extra lights, if you don't want them to operate together.

my hi beam doesn't light up that many trees, and I don't go fast enough to warrant using the pass light.

[Gremlin]

Sounds like a good system, well worth the effort....... BMW or Honda??
Custom... on the BMW :D

[eldog]

Custom... on the BMW :D
Custom #2 = me, but not a BMer

its. A mod I planned from the outset, awesome! Can see into the corners much better
just got a few adjustments once it starts getting darker at night.....

Hi beam a relevation

[nzspokes]

High beam usually wired to hi/low dimmer switch and pass, would need to separate or add separate switch/relay for extra lights, if you don't want them to operate together.

my hi beam doesn't light up that many trees, and I don't go fast enough to warrant using the pass light.

Pass switch is easy to breach and connect into. Probably solder onto the switch itself and use LED spots.

[BMWST?]

pass switch is just a momentary switch for high beam

[eldog]

Pass switch is easy to breach and connect into. Probably solder onto the switch itself and use LED spots.

I didn't have too, just added my stuff over the top of the current wiring

minimum fuss and keeps the bike as std as possible.

easy to adjust light levels for each setting: dim, high and MAX

power draw minimal - has delayed startup to help battery start the bike.

can remove and retrofit to another bike anytime, as wouldn't get money/time back selling it with the bike.

IMHO: I think the original post setup has merit

Something most bikes could do with is a decent light setup so you can see the corners.

[Tazz]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

:scratch:

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

[bogan]

:scratch:

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

That's what I was thinking, clearly it's illegal to do it that way anyway, so you may as well just wire spots/fills to your high beam circuit and be done with it. Hook the additional ones up through a relay and fuse. Or just get something suited for the actual job like the thingo in post 1.

[nzspokes]

:scratch:

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

On my Bandit it lights the highbeam leaving the low still on. Yes would use LEDs.

[Tazz]

That's what I was thinking, clearly it's illegal to do it that way anyway, so you may as well just wire spots/fills to your high beam circuit and be done with it. Hook the additional ones up through a relay and fuse. Or just get something suited for the actual job like the thingo in post 1.

You can have lights wired to a separate switch if you call them work lamps from memory. Have posted about it before.

Wasn't the pictured bike but I had one for a WOF on a separate circuit which was discussed briefly before I got to expand my sticker collection.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GEK_fl32rQY/VtD9zx-rDXI/AAAAAAAAK5M/vIjEpkiaCAA/w559-h315-no/DSC_0596.JPG

[Tazz]

On my Bandit it lights the highbeam leaving the low still on. Yes would use LEDs.

So you would have to hold the switch whenever you wanted to use them. Fark that, I need a free hand to update my twatter and sip my latte :bleh: (seriously though, you'd be better just to put a proper on off switch on it. Actually thinking about it the last ones I wired I have wired to high and then on a separate switch as well so both high and the switch have to be on to have the extra lights going. Best of both worlds. Did it that way as I was concerned about the drain at the time.)

[bogan]

You can have lights wired to a separate switch if you call them work lamps from memory. Have posted about it before.

Wasn't the pictured bike but I had one for a WOF on a separate circuit which was discussed briefly before I got to expand my sticker collection.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GEK_fl32rQY/VtD9zx-rDXI/AAAAAAAAK5M/vIjEpkiaCAA/w559-h315-no/DSC_0596.JPG

Yeh, I'd be surprised if they counted the high beam as a separate switch that could be disconnected and used for other things is all. It'd want to be a momentary switch too, otherwise you'd have two things to switch off when you notice oncoming traffic...

[nzspokes]

So you would have to hold the switch whenever you wanted to use them. Fark that, I need a free hand to update my twatter and sip my latte :bleh: (seriously though, you'd be better just to put a proper on off switch on it. Actually thinking about it the last ones I wired I have wired to high and then on a separate switch as well so both high and the switch have to be on to have the extra lights going. Best of both worlds. Did it that way as I was concerned about the drain at the time.)

As they would only be needed from time to time and I dont need to see possums in trees I think it could work.

[Tazz]

Yeh, I'd be surprised if they counted the high beam as a separate switch that could be disconnected and used for other things is all. It'd want to be a momentary switch too, otherwise you'd have two things to switch off when you notice oncoming traffic...

Yeah, so full disclosure, you are 100% on the right thought train and there is a problem there which is being a work lamp legally speaking it shouldn't be on when you're driving :nono: It just gets around the WOF issue :laugh:

Considering the size of bike gloves it's not hard to thumb two switches that are right next to each other at the same time though in the name of courtesy/not running people off the road with your brighter than the sun, retina melting lights. Even in one of my old 4x4's I'd just flick them off about a second after the stalk switch.

[Tazz]

As they would only be needed from time to time and I dont need to see possums in trees I think it could work.

Meh, whatever works for you. We obviously ride in very different areas.

While not perfect the original unit you linked is easier than bolting on extra lighting either way, which is a big bonus for it. Chur!

[bogan]

Yeah, so full disclosure, you are 100% on the right thought train and there is a problem there which is being a work lamp legally speaking it shouldn't be on when you're driving :nono: It just gets around the WOF issue :laugh:

Considering the size of bike gloves it's not hard to thumb two switches that are right next to each other at the same time though in the name of courtesy/not running people off the road with your brighter than the sun, retina melting lights. Even in one of my old 4x4's I'd just flick them off about a second after the stalk switch.

Yeh, but it's a lot easier to add switches within hands reach to a 4x4 than it is a bike.

I'd like to see the what a distributed lighting system could do, I mean the fancy one is just a bunch of different LEDs in the bucket, what about doing away with the bucket and putting a bunch of LEDs on the yokes, forks, mirrors, etc...

[nzspokes]

Meh, whatever works for you. We obviously ride in very different areas.

While not perfect the original unit you linked is easier than bolting on extra lighting either way, which is a big bonus for it. Chur!

Oh I agree with you. But not going to put half the value of the bike into a flash headlight.

[Tazz]

Yeh, but it's a lot easier to add switches within hands reach to a 4x4 than it is a bike.

I'd like to see the what a distributed lighting system could do, I mean the fancy one is just a bunch of different LEDs in the bucket, what about doing away with the bucket and putting a bunch of LEDs on the yokes, forks, mirrors, etc...

Not really. How long is a piece of string type thing for both. I've owned under 10 bikes but they've all had room to mount the thin switches you can get for under 20 smackos right next to the stock cluster of them. The only annoying part is when they only slide on and you have to pull your grips and shit off to mount them :mad:

That said of you like pretty and matchy matchy, those cheap switches don't really fit the bill.

[bogan]

Not really. How long is a piece of string type thing for both. I've owned under 10 bikes but they've all had room to mount the thin switches you can get for under 20 smackos right next to the stock cluster of them. The only annoying part is when they only slide on and you have to pull your grips and shit off to mount them :mad:

That said of you like pretty and matchy matchy, those cheap switches don't really fit the bill.

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure :bleh:

[eldog]

Oh I agree with you. But not going to put half the value of the bike into a flash headlight.
Buy a BMer the light won't be half the value of the light, unless it's a BMer one

[eldog]

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure :bleh:

Cheap stuff only for testing....

Easier to add to existing wiring harness for signals and add extra wires for the power draw to a relay/control system to drive the LEDs.

Its good with separate LEDs makes it easier to point in the direction/area you need. I use floods rather than spots on my rig. Adjust the brightness so it's easy on the eyes. Use the high beam/pass just like normal with an on/off switch for those difficult situations when it may be frowned on.

The OP product needs some more development but is on the right path, I don't know how it could compete with std bulb setups $ wise.
Having said that see how cheap even brand name LED lights for homes are becoming vs std bulbs.

[Tazz]

Yeh I'm of a mind that those cheap switches don't fit the bill, so you end up with the cost of billet, CNC operators time, IP67 rated switches, circuits boards, relays, new wiring harness... etc etc. Easier to bung a hole in a 4x4 dash and mash a few wires together for sure :bleh:

Yeah well, with the shit you build the effort shows and is worth it man :niceone:

Mine, well, that light and accompanying switch in that picture was dunked into a river about 24hrs later :devil2:
If it's working, to me it's good to go.

[bogan]

Yeah well, with the shit you build the effort shows and is worth it man :niceone:

Mine, well, that light and accompanying switch in that picture was dunked into a river about 24hrs later :devil2:
If it's working, to me it's good to go.

Mk2, the periscope LED floodlight... just splice in to the horn button :shifty:

[Gremlin]

Time for a pic :D

<a href="http://s210.photobucket.com/user/_Gremlin/media/IMG_5557.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/_Gremlin/IMG_5557.jpg~original" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_5557.jpg" width="640"/></a>

Big spots are Clearwater Krista - US$650
Small spots are Denali D1 (now you've got D2, dual intensity stuff etc) - ~US$200-300
HID low beam
+30 or +50 high beam
LED strips on the handguards (battery wired for light around the bike when stopping at night)

Denalis aren't currently fitted, Kristas are angled down, but when all setup I could get reflective boards on the Taupo bypass about 2km out. It's hard finding a flat straight with boards at the end.

HID and high beam are factory wiring, Kristas were a specific order to use the existing BMW fog lamp circuit and Denali has it's own wiring loom (fed via an accessory hub). Then a relay triggers the Denali when high beam goes on. Kristas already have some tricks (when wired) that they light up to full power on high beam (also on horn if you want). Low beam and it has a dimmer for 15-85% ish... minimum power is plenty for visibility and at night too much. I used the LED strips instead, except now I've replaced the handguard with stronger ones... it's never ending <_<

[bogan]

Time for a pic :D

<a href="http://s210.photobucket.com/user/_Gremlin/media/IMG_5557.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/_Gremlin/IMG_5557.jpg~original" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_5557.jpg" width="640"/></a>

Big spots are Clearwater Krista - US$650
Small spots are Denali D1 (now you've got D2, dual intensity stuff etc) - ~US$200-300
HID low beam
+30 or +50 high beam
LED strips on the handguards (battery wired for light around the bike when stopping at night)

Denalis aren't currently fitted, Kristas are angled down, but when all setup I could get reflective boards on the Taupo bypass about 2km out. It's hard finding a flat straight with boards at the end.

HID and high beam are factory wiring, Kristas were a specific order to use the existing BMW fog lamp circuit and Denali has it's own wiring loom (fed via an accessory hub). Then a relay triggers the Denali when high beam goes on. Kristas already have some tricks (when wired) that they light up to full power on high beam (also on horn if you want). Low beam and it has a dimmer for 15-85% ish... minimum power is plenty for visibility and at night too much. I used the LED strips instead, except now I've replaced the handguard with stronger ones... it's never ending <_<

The man in the highvis hasn't caught fire, you need more lumens...

[Racing Dave]

I have extra lights on my R1200GSA, which needs the 60 amp alternator. Lesser bikes need not apply.

2 x 100W driving lights for straight ahead (upright) vision.

LED arrays angle upwards and outward for cornering vision.

As used on several TT2000s; not to ride faster, but to ride more safely.

The photo shows the comparison between high beam (= high + low) and all guns blazing.