Kawasaki Ninja 300. Petrol and oil type?

[Tall Rider]

Hi everyone,

I've just bought my first bike, a 2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300 and I need some advise. This is my first vehicle, so I don't really know much about petrol and oil types.

What type of petrol should I be using? And what oil should I buy?

The user manual says to use an unleaded gasoline with an Antiknock Index equal or higher than 87.

Also, any advice on things I should buy/do with the bike?

Cheers,
Tall Rider

[Akzle]

What type of petrol should I be using? And what oil should I buy?

Also, any advice on things I should buy/do with the bike?


awwwwww hell yes!

20w full synth, change every 2000kms.
Never mind "petrol" on that little pocket rocket, you're going to want 150 octane avgas, most airports will sell it if you have a drum you can fill, at least bp's 98 but you may need to have your ecu reflashed and detuned, or preferably with one or two bottles of wynns octane booster in the tank.

Mods? Mate the sky is the limit, you're going to want to buy as much stuff for this little beast as you can afford. Sign your paychecks over to the local bike shop and let them guide you, you'll get it all back, with interest, when (IF!!) you ever sell that bag of fun.

[Tall Rider]

Thanks, I'll go down to my local super cheap auto tomorrow.



you're going to want 150 octane avgas, most airports will sell it if you have a drum you can fill

Ha!

Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.



Mods? Mate the sky is the limit, you're going to want to buy as much stuff for this little beast as you can afford. Sign your paychecks over to the local bike shop
I've already accepted that fact. Looks like it's going to be a fun hobby. The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.

[Akzle]

Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.

I've already accepted that fact. Looks like it's going to be a fun hobby. The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.

maaaaate, your going to want to swap out the indicator fluid for some 3w aswell. Probably grab a tube of elbow grease too.

The exhaust willl be well worth it as the oem is restrictive so taking it off with give you another 50rwhp

it would be sad to see you give up the 300, you'd be surprised if it cant keep up with the bigger ones (650)
but if you ever do want to, i'd recomend hyosung

[Moi]

Don't take too much notice of Akzle... he likes to tease people and pull their leg... but then he sudden comes out with something really sensible and appropriate... it's knowing the difference...

Most laugh and chuckle... a few get really rough on him - I suspect they wanted the job he got: Village Idiot... the one that the rest of the village cares about... even when he's being a right PITA...

[caspernz]

An AKI of 87 equates to our 91, so go with that. As for oil, check the manual but it's likely something like 5W40 and as long as you buy 4 stroke motorcycle oil you'll be fine. In practical terms a Ninja 300 is like an oversized lawnmower, so low stressed.

Google a few things you're keen to learn. Tyre pressures, chain tension would be two key items for starters...

[Tall Rider]

Thanks guys, need all the help I can get.

[WristTwister]

Oil level - you may have a window by the engine that lets you check this. Also, if the bike is brand new, you won't need to change the oil as it will get changed with your first service, but avoid synthetic if it is new, the manuals advise it.
Brake fluid levels (front and back)
Tire-pressure - usually between 36-42 psi but check your manual. I have a tire-pressure meter keyring that's been useful, and a tire-tread depth tester.
Chain lubricant - Make sure you get the right lubricant for your chain too. If you go to one of the Kawasaki dealers in Wellington, they'll know.
Petrol - I'd suggest Caltex 91 with techron because it cleans your engine without paying more for 95

[nzspokes]

Petrol - I'd suggest Caltex 91 with techron because it cleans your engine without paying more for 95

Tried that, motor still looks filthy. I should complain.

[Pound]

Don't take too much notice of Akzle... he likes to tease people and pull their leg... but then he sudden comes out with something really sensible and appropriate... it's knowing the difference...


Say what you like about Akzle, but he talks far more sense than most people give him credit for, and needless to say, the comments he makes are fucking hilarious :)

[neels]

I would suggest you go to this link https://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManuals/Manual/EX300AES# and download the manual, it will tell you everything you need to know.

For instance page 95 tells you to use 10W40 mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic oil, in my experience semi synthetic is probably worth the extra money, full synthetic not so much unless you're thrashing it everywhere.

Should run fine on 91, but worth running a tank or two of 91 and then 95 and see if it makes any difference, sometimes the fuel consumption will be better on 95 and actually costs less overall.

[Swivel]

I was told to use 95 it suppose to be more responsive and has a longer shelf life then 91. I use 10W40 semi synthetic.

[WristTwister]

I was told to use 95 it suppose to be more responsive and has a longer shelf life then 91. I use 10W40 semi synthetic.

Mechanic types will be able to explain it better, but some compression ratio thing-ma-jig probably means a 300 won't perform better with 95. I heard that 95 gives you more milage, someone might be able to confirm that.

[rambaldi]

Mechanic types will be able to explain it better, but some compression ratio thing-ma-jig probably means a 300 won't perform better with 95. I heard that 95 gives you more milage, someone might be able to confirm that.

Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.

[Swivel]

Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.

So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?

[Akzle]

So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?

dont understand the difference between compression and displacement, huh?

[Scubbo]

everytime someone mentions the kawasaki ninja, I get this song in my head...........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46pg6Sjvf0M

[5ive]

Any other fluids I need to buy? Like coolant, break fluid, etc. I just realised I'll need to get some lube for the chain.

/

The two major things I'm thinking about it a tank bag and an exhaust. But exhausts are so expensive. I don't know if it's worth doing up this bike if (IF!) I ever upgrade to a 650.

Don't worry about the coolant and brake fluid just yet... just focus on the oil changes and chain lube. Kero is good for cleaning that type of chain.

I'd also skip replacing the exhaust, it's just a waste of money on the 300. I'd spend the cash on rider training or gear tbh. Have fun!

[BrendonF]

Generally what it is, is high compression engines need 95/98. This is because if they don't have the high rating fuel, the mixture ignites earlier in the cycle than it should. The compression from the bore/stroke or high boost pressure is enough to ignite the fuel before the spark can. This is known as knocking, and is pretty bad for your engine.

Generally what you will find is the higher rating fuels have more fancy and expensive additives, which can lead to a cleaner running engine in the long run. I usually run 91 in my VTR250 as that is all the self service Gull has near my place, that doesn't have ethanol. Every now and then though I splurge on some 98 from the BP across from the office to treat the engine to a bit of a clean. No idea if it actually works but the difference in price is pretty small, so I figure if I am going there to check my tyres when i fill I might as well do it.

you can run 91 in a high compression motor is it has knock sensors, but I personally stick with a min of 95.

Regarding this new bike, my advice would be..
Check air pressures regularly (37F 41R) as opposed to normal bikes that are 38/42 that have wider tyres. This part is critical to your bikes handling and braking.
oil- use sight glass as a guide only (seems silly but make sure the bikes level when you check, not on the side stand)
clean out air filter regularly
keep chain lubed or buy a scotoiler automatic chain luber (about $260). If you use a spray I recommend a Motul product that is white when applied and fades when its worn (visual indicator) should be done roughly every 500-1000km or after you have been riding in rain.
buy a rad guard and light guard. this $200 could save you a hell of a lot more if you break your light or even worse get a hole through your radiator.
Change the headlight globes to something like a Narva Untra Blue, way more light than a standard globe. You could also try fitting a LED globe, think there round a $150 each from fleabay.
As a comfort item, change your screen to a proper double bubble type.
Pipes, try some of the other cheaper brands. just search fleabay
And the most important one is ........ Just ride your bloody bike and have fun

[5ive]

Check air pressures regularly (37F 41R) as opposed to normal bikes that are 38/42 that have wider tyres. This part is critical to your bikes handling and braking.

28F, 32R.

Any higher and that bike will not handle anything apart from riding off the road on sharp corners ;)

[BrendonF]

28F, 32R.

Any higher and that bike will not handle anything apart from riding off the road on sharp corners ;)

really?? that seems rather low. Those tyres must be skinny. I run a 120 section front and a 190 section rear and must admit I havnt had anything below 120F,180R rear in a very long time.

[rambaldi]

So anything over 750cc would benefit from the higher octane fuel?

See Akzle's comment. There is a difference between the engine displacement and the pressure it squishes everything to in the combustion chamber before ignition.

As BrendonF said, with high compression engines if they have knock sensors you can run the lower fuel. But depending on how it is controlling knock you may loose out on some power.

[Akzle]

you can run 91 in a high compression motor is it has knock sensors, but I personally stick with a min of 95.


which work by retarding the timing,
and we all know what retarded means...

Moral of the story, use the correct fuel, regardless of your engines electrickery.

[WristTwister]

Hey do you have the manual? I found a link to it here (http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM_nv.php?view_lang=EN&spec=OC&category=MC&book_no=99986-1771&lang_code=EN&code=&nickname=&modelyear=) Page 83 covers maintenance.

The manual page on tire pressure:

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

Tire Air Pressure (when cold)

Wheels
Front
200 kPa (2.00 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Rear
225 kPa (2.25 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)


My bad for saying 42psi - it's what mine are :facepalm:


which work by retarding the timing,
and we all know what retarded means...

Moral of the story, use the correct fuel, regardless of your engines electrickery.

Never go full retard man!

[5ive]

really?? that seems rather low. Those tyres must be skinny. I run a 120 section front and a 190 section rear and must admit I havnt had anything below 120F,180R rear in a very long time.

Yeah man, they're only 17s: 110/70 and 140/70.

I bet there are a lot of smaller bikes out there with over-inflated tyres though :lol:

[rambaldi]

Hey do you have the manual? I found a link to it here (http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM_nv.php?view_lang=EN&spec=OC&category=MC&book_no=99986-1771&lang_code=EN&code=&nickname=&modelyear=) Page 83 covers maintenance.

The manual page on tire pressure:

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

Tire Air Pressure (when cold)

Wheels
Front
200 kPa (2.00 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Rear
225 kPa (2.25 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)


My bad for saying 42psi - it's what mine are :facepalm:



Never go full retard man!

That is if it is the stock rubber. When I switched off the shitty Bridgestones on my bike they suggested 34/36 psi front/back (34/38 if riding 2-up). And that seems to ride better than if I let them get a bit lower.

[bmws1r]

This forum is the worst place to ask about this sort of stuff.If you have to ask here it would be better for you to take it to a motorcycle shop to get the oil changed, and just use premium fuel.

[Tall Rider]

Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?

[neels]

Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?
The manual will tell you pretty much everything you need to know to own and ride it.

BT-45's are nice tyres, if they're the same size as the manual specifies then run the same pressure unless you're really loading the thing.

[5ive]

Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

Yeah I got the manual, haven't read it yet though. Only read the user manual.

My bike's got some nice Bridgestone BT-45's. Does that change the pressure?

The required pressures are written on the chain-side swing-arm, as well as on the sidewall of the actual tyres...

[MarkW]

The required pressures are written on the chain-side swing-arm, as well as on the sidewall of the actual tyres...

Correct as far as the sticker on the chain guard or swinging arm but totally wrong as far as the sidewall of the tyre. The pressure on the sidewall of the tyre is the MAXIMUM recommended pressure for the tyre at the MAXIMUM load for the tyre - NOT the recommended pressure for that tyre on every motorcycle.

I run BT45's on my 248kg 650 Honda and the tyre pressures for my BT45's will be hugely different to those of a Kawasaki 300 even though the tyres are very similar in size.

I run 31 - 35 psi in the 120/70 17 front depending on summer/winter, hot/cold temperatures and load. The rear 140/80 17 gets 34 - 37psi depending on the same variables already listed.

I wrote a detailed post some years ago in the Tyres section of this website on how to get to good working tyre pressures for normal road use on almost any motorcycle with street legal tyres fitted.

[Scubbo]

:girlfight::girlfight::girlfight:TIRE PRESSURE:girlfight::girlfight::girlfight:

[5ive]

Correct as far as the sticker on the chain guard or swinging arm but totally wrong as far as the sidewall of the tyre. The pressure on the sidewall of the tyre is the MAXIMUM recommended pressure for the tyre at the MAXIMUM load for the tyre - NOT the recommended pressure for that tyre on every motorcycle.

I run BT45's on my 248kg 650 Honda and the tyre pressures for my BT45's will be hugely different to those of a Kawasaki 300 even though the tyres are very similar in size.

I run 31 - 35 psi in the 120/70 17 front depending on summer/winter, hot/cold temperatures and load. The rear 140/80 17 gets 34 - 37psi depending on the same variables already listed.

I wrote a detailed post some years ago in the Tyres section of this website on how to get to good working tyre pressures for normal road use on almost any motorcycle with street legal tyres fitted.

He didn't specify what size tyres, so yeah, it was kind of implied that he should read what was actually written on them...

[BrendonF]

Yeah man, they're only 17s: 110/70 and 140/70.

I bet there are a lot of smaller bikes out there with over-inflated tyres though :lol:

I bet there is. with tyres that skinny it would make cornering easy and shouldn't have any chicken stripes.

[caspernz]

He didn't specify what size tyres, so yeah, it was kind of implied that he should read what was actually written on them...

Nah, what's on the sidewall is normally max pressure for max loading. The best guide for inflation pressure is the bike manufacturer, so as per the manual.