Buying my first car

[The End]

After 8+ years of having a motorcycle as my only form of transport, things have changed and I now require a car... (keeping the bike though)

I've been looking on Trademe for a couple of weeks but am not entirely sure what I am looking for.

My criteria:

$3-6k ($5 and a bag of chips won't do, sorry Akzle)
Automatic
Not CVT
Not Cambelt


I've been told by some trusted individuals to stay away from early model and/or high KM CVT transmissions - the early models were prone to failure and are best avoided. But it seems like nearly every bloody car in my price range is CVT :facepalm:


Any suggestions are appreciated :2thumbsup

[Berries]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/other/auction-1080385914.htm

[Madness]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-1082593489.htm

[bogan]

Usually a good lot of E36 BMWs to fit that bill.

Just steer clear of the Jatcos (JDM)

[Virago]

Can you stretch your budget a little further? If you're prepared to be patient and keep your eye on Turners, it's possible to pick up a really good quality ex-lease car, well maintained. I picked up a four year old Falcon for myself for $8,000 - it took me over six months of watching and waiting though.

[Gremlin]

Is the Honda Jazz CVT or cambelt? I have no idea, but a mate has one. I figure a hatch or wagon is the most practical vehicle (besides vans or utes) otherwise you may as well have a bike for all the luggage space and practicality you get.

The Jazz is more economical than his CB919 (obviously not driven/ridden exactly the same)... drives nicely, he's quite happy with it.

[Grumph]

Some observations based on a lifetime of deep cynicism...
The car is for practicality, the bike is for fun so the criteria for the car are usage based.
What do you want to carry/tow ?
yes, autos are better if you're in stop-go traffic, yes camchains last longer.
Stay away from exotic brands - which in NZ means anything Euro - even if the source is now non euro, ie made in China etc...
the reasoning here is parts prices which can be shocking for anything outside mainstream makers.
I've even got my doubts on some Jap brands. I'd never have a mazda, Honda or Mitubishi - just personal preference based on what mates in the trade tell me.

So IMO it comes down to Toyota or Nissan as offering the best choice of secondhands. Both do models using camchains, sometimes different motors in the same shell will have different cam drives. Ask and look for yourself.

And before you ask, currently driving a Nissan avenir, jap market light commercial wagon 1500 auto with about 250000k on it, picked up for $500....2nd owner in NZ.

[AllanB]

One of the import Hondas has a dud CVT transmission.

I had been looking for my daughter recently.


Ended up with a 1999 Toyota Corolla (NZ) with 138,000 on the clock. Private sale.

Engine had a service history and is a minter, nice interior once I'd groomed it. Paint came up well with some physical effort. Reckon after I'd tidied it up I could have easily sold it for another grand. But she loves it so won't let me.


4 speed auto, twin cam 1.8 engine. Easy to do your own oil and filters etc. ABS brakes, airbags. They also made a 1.6 version.

These motors are well known for doing high kms (300-400,000) provided routine maintenance is done. Cambelt, waterpump needs replacing every 100,000.

[Akzle]

well maintained cvt boxes will do well, the nissan in the 3.5 primeras, ie, but they need lots of expensive oil, regularly.

I also advise against autos.

Depends if you mind a beater or not, cruise otara and pick something off someones front lawn.

Cam chain/gears is a bit limiting.

How would ya like a low km magna wagon, manual? Tows like a motherfucker.

[Akzle]

also could get you dibs on an older, less-clean-than-allans (but tidy) rolla 4dr sedan auto. Similar price.

[The End]

Is the Honda Jazz CVT or cambelt? I have no idea, but a mate has one. I figure a hatch or wagon is the most practical vehicle (besides vans or utes) otherwise you may as well have a bike for all the luggage space and practicality you get.

The Jazz is more economical than his CB919 (obviously not driven/ridden exactly the same)... drives nicely, he's quite happy with it.

Initially started looking at getting the Jazz (Also known as Fit) however after taking two for a test drive and experiencing a very noticeable shudder from 0km/h to 5km/h when accelerating in both cars, it's put me off them due to the CVT. Both of these were <45,000kms too...

[SVboy]

well maintained cvt boxes will do well, the nissan in the 3.5 primeras, ie, but they need lots of expensive oil, regularly.

I also advise against autos.

Depends if you mind a beater or not, cruise otara and pick something off someones front lawn.

Cam chain/gears is a bit limiting.

How would ya like a low km magna wagon, manual? Tows like a motherfucker.

Worse advice since Axle's Mum said "I'm on the blob, you wont need protection....."
AllanB's advice on Corollas-the way to go.

[OddDuck]

Not all cambelt engines are interference, if that's what's putting you off - yeah, if the belt goes you'll be stranded and need a tow, but it won't bend valves / crack cylinder head / etc. Unfortunately you'll have to check model by model, some are non-interference, most are though.

+1 on avoid European - they've got a real problem with fussy, modular, non-repairable components. Very expensive to sort if anything goes wrong.

If you have the space to work in (i.e. double car garage, uninterrupted bay) and the inclination, it might be worth taking both front wings off. Yeah, it's a hassle, but chances are that you'll find a compost heap in there, trapping water and rotting the car chassis out with rust.

[Maha]

Worse advice since Axle's Mum said "I'm on the blob, you wont need protection....."
AllanB's advice on Corollas-the way to go.

...and yet many a home less bum still went there...their DNA transfer would explain a lot.

[caspernz]

As per the OPs criteria, had the same situation a couple of years ago. My list was simple, small, manual, NZ new and I'd prefer newer with high kms instead of other way around. Hyundai Getz is what I ended up with. Cheaper to run overall than my Busa, but not exactly swift of course. Manuals are not always easy to find, so I searched a little. If you've got a bit of time to learn and look around, it'll pay off in the long run.

[Banditbandit]

After 8+ years of having a motorcycle as my only form of transport, things have changed and I now require a car... (keeping the bike though)

I've been looking on Trademe for a couple of weeks but am not entirely sure what I am looking for.

My criteria:

$3-6k ($5 and a bag of chips won't do, sorry Akzle)
Automatic
Not CVT
Not Cambelt


I've been told by some trusted individuals to stay away from early model and/or high KM CVT transmissions - the early models were prone to failure and are best avoided. But it seems like nearly every bloody car in my price range is CVT :facepalm:


Any suggestions are appreciated :2thumbsup


What do you want a car for? Serious question .. town/city commuting? Sunday cruising in the country ? Picking up the wife/mistress/girlfriend (not all at the same time)? Carrying the shopping or carting rubbish to the dump? How many people you expect to carry in it ???

Having sex in the park? (don't buy a Fiat 500 then) ...

Once you work out what you need then see what is available to fit that ..

[The End]

As per the OPs criteria, had the same situation a couple of years ago. My list was simple, small, manual, NZ new and I'd prefer newer with high kms instead of other way around. Hyundai Getz is what I ended up with. Cheaper to run overall than my Busa, but not exactly swift of course. Manuals are not always easy to find, so I searched a little. If you've got a bit of time to learn and look around, it'll pay off in the long run.

The Getz is something I've been looking at, however as an automatic. What's the quality like and reliability?

[The End]

What do you want a car for? Serious question .. town/city commuting? Sunday cruising in the country ? Picking up the wife/mistress/girlfriend (not all at the same time)? Carrying the shopping or carting rubbish to the dump? How many people you expect to carry in it ???

Having sex in the park? (don't buy a Fiat 500 then) ...

Once you work out what you need then see what is available to fit that ..

Need a car for transport to and from places so that I can turn up dry (a bit tough on the bike :laugh:) and also cart the shopping around.

Looking for something cheap to run and reliable - it won't be used every day, but I need it to work when I need to use it.

Mostly city commuting however may be used for the odd 120km return distance trip.

[caspernz]

The Getz is something I've been looking at, however as an automatic. What's the quality like and reliability?

Better than I'd expected. Serviced properly, no reliability issues to date. Just ticked over 150k last month. To be fair, it's used as commuter/runabout only, not a fun highway car. Can tote lots with the back seats folded, the hatchback type of advantage.

[neels]

I'd definately go auto over CVT, most modern autos will outlive the manual drivetrain in the same car.

Toyotas are overpriced for what you get compared to the other mainstream jappas, and if you need OEM parts they are ridiculously expensive. A couple of mates who work on cars for a living recommend steering clear of hondas and subarus.

Nissan is probably the best bet for a reasonably priced car with a camchain engine, some mazdas are definately worth a look as well though, these for instance....

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-936421229.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1083827296.htm

Worth remembering that anything post 2000 is on yearly instead of 6 monthly WOF's, and the ACC levy difference is worth a look too http://www.acc.co.nz/PRD_EXT_CSMP/groups/external_levies/documents/reference_tools/wpc137747.pdf

[Maha]

What about a ''2003 Holden Cruze All wheel drive, auto, air-con, 5 door only done 114,450kms reg until Jan 2017, $5500 Any reasonable offers will be considered'' in Greenlane?

Sample only --> http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-1054620047.htm

If you want to have a look just ask. The owners are moving over seas and it needs to go.

[Gremlin]

One thing I may mention, is that the manual > auto thing is changing. Market wise, the majority of vehicles now are auto, so the manufacturers are spending more on auto R&D rather than the other way around.

Case in point is the one model back Navara. The auto actually has a better reputation and word is you have to change a couple of things on the manual before it's solid. Simply manufacturers spending on auto R&D but for the utes especially, they know they have to keep supplying a manual.

Makes me happy. It's been years since I drove a manual (when learning to drive) and deliberately won't buy a manual especially with Auckland traffic. Bikes are the other way around :laugh:

[neels]

One thing I may mention, is that the manual > auto thing is changing. Market wise, the majority of vehicles now are auto, so the manufacturers are spending more on auto R&D rather than the other way around.

Case in point is the one model back Navara. The auto actually has a better reputation and word is you have to change a couple of things on the manual before it's solid. Simply manufacturers spending on auto R&D but for the utes especially, they know they have to keep supplying a manual.

Makes me happy. It's been years since I drove a manual (when learning to drive) and deliberately won't buy a manual especially with Auckland traffic. Bikes are the other way around :laugh:
Not to mention detuning of engines, particularly common rail diesels, to stop the torque breaking bits of the drivetrain.

I've got lazy in my old age, and drive an auto to work and back, sitting in traffic in a manual car sucks arse.

[flashg]

The Getz is something I've been looking at, however as an automatic. What's the quality like and reliability?


My mum has a 2010 getz auto, the tranz never changes like it should, it's been checked and she was told it's fine. Gotta call Bullshit on that.
I bought my daughter a Toyota vitz two door, Year 2000 model, 1000cc auto with OD. 135,000 km digital dash (cool) injected, cam chain, plug mounted coils,keyless entry. Paid $4000 goes great changes gear perfectly. It's light "pink" shouldn't get stolen. She loves it.

[Akzle]

One thing I may mention, is that the manual > auto thing is changing. Market wise, the majority of vehicles now are auto, so the manufacturers are spending more on auto R&D rather than the other way around.

Case in point is the one model back Navara. The auto actually has a better reputation and word is you have to change a couple of things on the manual before it's solid. Simply manufacturers spending on auto R&D but for the utes especially, they know they have to keep supplying a manual.

Makes me happy. It's been years since I drove a manual (when learning to drive) and deliberately won't buy a manual especially with Auckland traffic. Bikes are the other way around :laugh:

lolololololololololololololol

and who the fuck do you know that uses a late model navara in anger??

They're sales reps cars. Over glorified stationwagons. And the new ones are gay.
And autos are gay.

I believe they've almost managed to mass produce an auto as fuel efficient as a manual.

[Stylo]

What about a ''2003 Holden Cruze All wheel drive, auto, air-con, 5 door only done 114,450kms reg until Jan 2017, $5500 Any reasonable offers will be considered'' in Greenlane?

Sample only --> http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-1054620047.htm

If you want to have a look just ask. The owners are moving over seas and it needs to go.

Don't buy a Cruze, they're the epitome of the badly made car ... they're rubbish



Watch this about 3.44



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt5UTFuQUys

[george formby]

Quick question. I've always avoided small engine cars with auto but I'm seeing favorable reports on dinky Jizz's, Gitz and the like? How do they go? I've had fun in dinky manuals but autos on hills or overtaking were terrible.

[RJC]

and who the fuck do you know that uses a late model navara in anger??

I believe they've almost managed to mass produce an auto as fuel efficient as a manual.


My brother has a few as farm trucks, both manual and auto. The autos piss all over the manuals.

I've always had manual Utes, next one will be auto

[caspernz]

Quick question. I've always avoided small engine cars with auto but I'm seeing favorable reports on dinky Jizz's, Gitz and the like? How do they go? I've had fun in dinky manuals but autos on hills or overtaking were terrible.

Depends on the vintage. Older 4 speed autos with small engines are like a GN250 really. Newer 5 or 6 speed autos or CVT not bad.

[Laava]

Not to mention detuning of engines, particularly common rail diesels, to stop the torque breaking bits of the drivetrain.

I've got lazy in my old age, and drive an auto to work and back, sitting in traffic in a manual car sucks arse.

Exactly! The 4wd utes of the last decade have all had problems with clutches, and this has led to them being offered as autos across the board. The new hilux has considerably more torque available as an auto, my guess is because of problems in the past with their clutches etc. All the people I know with the new autos are rapt with them

[AllanB]

Quick question. I've always avoided small engine cars with auto but I'm seeing favorable reports on dinky Jizz's, Gitz and the like? How do they go? I've had fun in dinky manuals but autos on hills or overtaking were terrible.

1300 cc engine up is OK, 1500 a lot better. I ran a Toyota Vitz 1300 (auto) for a week - good around town, fine up to say 110 on the open road after that you waited. Passing at speed - it the vehicle in front was doing 80 and you had a run-up it was fine. Doing 90 - just tuck in a slipstream them and enjoy phenomenal fuel economy.

My advise - look at 1300cc plus engines if hooked to a auto.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Aston Martin V8 Vantage. You will pik one up for around 80 to 100. Nice car.

Y no love for Subaru ITT?

[Akzle]

Aston Martin V8 Vantage. You will pik one up for around 80 to 100. Nice car.

Y no love for Subaru ITT?

vanquish, you pussy.

And subaru are ghey. Weak drivelines, shitty turbos, poor awd. Sideways engines.

[Paul in NZ]

Swallow your pride - get a Toyota or Nissan from the mid to late 90's... Literally run forever if you service them... Finding it hard to find a replacement for my Caldina...

[Maha]

Swallow your pride - get a Toyota or Nissan from the mid to late 90's... Literally run forever if you service them... Finding it hard to find a replacement for my Caldina...

Probably very good advice.

[haydes55]

At my old job we had a primera as a work wagon (thankfully not my work wagon). No less than 6 times the CVT was malfunctioning and needed repairs. Twice fully replaced CVT. In the end sold it cheap because it was costing more than made sense.

As for manual vs auto, in my turbo diesel ute, I wanted a manual, because they are just so much better at life.

But 1st and 2nd gear are so short, but 2nd is too high to take off from, and it's such a peaky power curve from the turbo, it's not smooth when I try take off fast (unless I ride the clutch, then I can keep the turbo spooled up from take off til 2nd). I'm actually thinking an auto would smooth this out and offer a better power curve, instead of going from lag to boost to clutch in. All of the tourques to none of the tourques...

[EJK]

Swallow your pride - get a Toyota or Nissan from the mid to late 90's... Literally run forever if you service them... Finding it hard to find a replacement for my Caldina...

Non-turbo Caldina AWD with manual transmission. Great fun and can last for over 600 years.


Or this as an alternative if you win the lottery this weekend.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mclaren/auction-1048015959.htm

[Akzle]

At my old job we had a primera as a work wagon (thankfully not my work wagon). No less than 6 times the CVT was malfunctioning and needed repairs. Twice fully replaced CVT. In the end sold it cheap because it was costing more than made sense.

As for manual vs auto, in my turbo diesel ute, I wanted a manual, because they are just so much better at life.

But 1st and 2nd gear are so short, but 2nd is too high to take off from, and it's such a peaky power curve from the turbo, it's not smooth when I try take off fast (unless I ride the clutch, then I can keep the turbo spooled up from take off til 2nd). I'm actually thinking an auto would smooth this out and offer a better power curve, instead of going from lag to boost to clutch in. All of the tourques to none of the tourques...

change of diff may see ya right.

But generally, turbo is gay, just get a bigger engine.

[EJK]

change of diff may see ya right.

But generally, turbo is gay, just get a bigger engine.

No replacement for <strike>small penis</strike> displacement.

[Blackbird]

Our daughter has an auto Toyota Camry which she picked up a couple of years ago for about $4000. Ex-rental. Seriously impressed with it as it just runs and runs with no bother at all. It's done around 200k, doesn't burn oil and is amazingly quiet. It uses a bit more fuel than the smaller capacity cars but it's by no means a guzzler and it's more comfortable on longer runs and can carry a decent amount of luggage. As others have said, everyday Jappa cars might not be particularly inspiring, but they're cheap to run and you won't get stranded waiting months for parts if anything does go wrong.

[Akzle]

No replacement for <strike>small penis</strike> displacement.

meh. I enjoy knowing that i could tow most other shit on the road backwards (or, as needed). Passing uphill in fifth makes for cruisy driving too.

[Paul in NZ]

Non-turbo Caldina AWD with manual transmission. Great fun and can last for over 600 years.


Or this as an alternative if you win the lottery this weekend.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mclaren/auction-1048015959.htm

I don't think the 4 speed (well 3 and OD) auto in those caldinas have ever failed ever... Mines only done 240,000 and biggest expense other than a cambelt every 100K was the rear shocks last year - I just about had a heart attack having to spend money on it...

[OddDuck]

Swallow your pride - get a Toyota or Nissan from the mid to late 90's... Literally run forever if you service them... Finding it hard to find a replacement for my Caldina...

Rust in the body might be an issue by now. The sealant used along weld lines goes hard and cracks, letting water in to metal that may or may not have been painted. Shame really, I think the mid '90's was about the peak for reliability combined with ease of service for Japanese cars in general, they've been getting fussier, more expensive and harder to work on since.

Caveat: that comment about rust based on a sample of 1... and it was a Mazda... your mileage may vary

[Paul in NZ]

Rust in the body might be an issue by now. The sealant used along weld lines goes hard and cracks, letting water in to metal that may or may not have been painted. Shame really, I think the mid '90's was about the peak for reliability combined with ease of service for Japanese cars in general, they've been getting fussier, more expensive and harder to work on since.

Caveat: that comment about rust based on a sample of 1... and it was a Mazda... your mileage may vary

True that although its not evident on most of the survivors... Caldinas will go around the A pillar but its an easy fix $$ wise compared to a mech fix on later cars. Vicki has a Diahatsu Srion which is really a toyota and its stone axe reliable but needed suspension bushes last wof... Sorry - dont sell the bushes, you replace the whole arm... $850 for a $10 bush... Pathetic... Reliability is a key factor in reducing the damage done by cars. Sure a later cars more fuel efficient but it still needs to be manufactured...

Cheers

[OddDuck]

True that although its not evident on most of the survivors... Caldinas will go around the A pillar but its an easy fix $$ wise compared to a mech fix on later cars. Vicki has a Diahatsu Srion which is really a toyota and its stone axe reliable but needed suspension bushes last wof... Sorry - dont sell the bushes, you replace the whole arm... $850 for a $10 bush... Pathetic... Reliability is a key factor in reducing the damage done by cars. Sure a later cars more fuel efficient but it still needs to be manufactured...

Cheers

Check Rockauto.com for aftermarket parts, they might have some goodies. Way cheaper than dealer if they do. They will ping you on postage, see if you can freight forward.

[huff3r]

All this euro-bashing is pretty funny. I get all my parts, generally overnight, and considerably cheaper than oem toyota bits. Easy as to work on, because the amount of enthusiast knowledge on the internet is huge. Yeah I know, any mechanic can fix a toyota, but they don't exactly post how to videos on the net or else they would go out of business.

Admittedly both my BMWs are old, but the older ones do have a lot less to go wrong. 240kms and 200kms, the 240kms one clean sheets wofs, or has the last 3 and nothing has broken.

But unless you are keen to learn how they work, and how to keep them going, and where to get parts from then yeah avoid them. Or buy it, fuck it, and sell it to me cheap so I can fix a $300 car for $21 again :D

[Big Dog]

lolololololololololololololol

and who the fuck do you know that uses a late model navara in anger??

They're sales reps cars. Over glorified stationwagons. And the new ones are gay.
And autos are gay.

I believe they've almost managed to mass produce an auto as fuel efficient as a manual.
That explains why so many are so attracted to the Honda.

In all fairness a badly well driven auto uses significantly less gas than a poorly driven manual.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

[Big Dog]

Swallow your pride - get a Toyota or Nissan from the mid to late 90's... Literally run forever if you service them... Finding it hard to find a replacement for my Caldina...
Some do terribly in crash testing. They tend to still be driveable after a major but all that energy goes somewhere.


Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

[Asher]

You should be able to find a Suzuki Swift GLX 1.5L for $6K.
They have a 1.5L VVTi cam chain engine and are NZs most poplar used import or there should be plenty of spares available.

[Gremlin]

You should be able to find a Suzuki Swift GLX 1.5L for $6K.
From my observation, only 2 types of people buy Swifts. Fucken mostly asleep snails that destroy the name in the most ironic way... and the balancing side, they think they got a rally version of it :crazy:

[awayatc]

All this euro-bashing is pretty funny. I get all my parts, generally overnight, and considerably cheaper than oem toyota bits. Easy as to work on, because the amount of enthusiast knowledge on the internet is huge. Yeah I know, any mechanic can fix a toyota, but they don't exactly post how to videos on the net or else they would go out of business.

Admittedly both my BMWs are old, but the older ones do have a lot less to go wrong. 240kms and 200kms, the 240kms one clean sheets wofs, or has the last 3 and nothing has broken.

But unless you are keen to learn how they work, and how to keep them going, and where to get parts from then yeah avoid them. Or buy it, fuck it, and sell it to me cheap so I can fix a $300 car for $21 again :D

Simple truth. ...

i buy Saabs, cheap as chips, some wee things to sort, but i drive a 240 hp very comfy sporty $100.000 when new car for sweet fuck all.....
nothing goes wrong with it that i cant fix with a bit of google, and ebay......

[Asher]

From my observation, only 2 types of people buy Swifts. Fucken mostly asleep snails that destroy the name in the most ironic way... and the balancing side, they think they got a rally version of it :crazy:

Hahaha. I must be on the balancing side, i have a swift sport and love to treat it like a rally car.

[neels]

From my observation, only 2 types of people buy Swifts. Fucken mostly asleep snails that destroy the name in the most ironic way... and the balancing side, they think they got a rally version of it :crazy:
This ^^

Hahaha. I must be on the balancing side, i have a swift sport and love to treat it like a rally car.
So you fall into the second category then.

Of course you can buy the RS version, same gutless engine with extra plastic to make it heavier, winning.

[scumdog]

Car names starting with 'S' are a safe bet.

So look for Skoda, Simca or Studebaker.

Saab ain't to bad niether - but steer clear of anything with Shelby, they're bound to be too much expensive fun.


Above comments are from observation, not experience.
I drive a Morris Marina - complete with NOS sticker!