Running-in / Breaking-in the new Bike

[Korea]

First off, apologies if this topic has already been thrashed about to death.
(and if so can you point me in the direction of the thread?)

Taking delivery of a NEW bike tomorrow and there seems to be two camps with regards to running it in:
#1 Follow the manual, take it easy, change oil after 600kms etx.
#2 Run it HARD!

Check this link:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've heard arguments from both camps, does anybody have any experience with method #2?

Appreciate your advice,

[Jantar]

I have used both methods. It all depends on what you are intending to use the bike for, and how often you intend to rebuild the motor.

For long life, take it easy to begin with. As the engine begins to loosen up, allow it to rev freely when its not under too much load, but don't push it too hard yet. As you get more time on it allow it to work a bit harder. That first oil change is very important.

For maximum performance, half an hour at half throttle then start making it work hard. Expect to rebuild the top end after two or three race meetings, and a complete rebuild every 20 hours running.

The purpose of running in is to get an even wear pattern developing on all sliding metal surfaces. Most people only think of the rings, but also think of valve stems, cam shaft bearings, gear box shafts and bearings etc.

[Korea]

Found the other thread about running-in. There seems to be a lot of support for the following method:

"Warm the engine up completely"
"Load the engine by opening the throttle HARD in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear."
"Alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration."
"For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears!"

However, there is an allarming over-use of exclaimation marks on this website that makes me a little nervous...

[Korea]

I have used both methods. It all depends on what you are intending to use the bike for, and how often you intend to rebuild the motor.

For long life, take it easy to begin with. As the engine begins to loosen up, allow it to rev freely when its not under too much load, but don't push it too hard yet. As you get more time on it allow it to work a bit harder. That first oil change is very important.

For maximum performance, half an hour at half throttle then start making it work hard. Expect to rebuild the top end after two or three race meetings, and a complete rebuild every 20 hours running.

The purpose of running in is to get an even wear pattern developing on all sliding metal surfaces. Most people only think of the rings, but also think of valve stems, cam shaft bearings, gear box shafts and bearings etc.

Ah... I think it's coming together now; run it hard for fast engine/short life, take it easy for slower/long life?

Kind of makes sense to me...

[Pablo Uganda]

I've had 4 new bikes, the smallest 900cc, and I did'nt thrash or rev hard for the first 1000ks, then after that, just rode normal.
One in particular a RF900 I caned quite hard from about 500k, and in all honesty, it went a shit load better than one I knew of that was pampered by its owner for a long time from new, to the etxent that it accelerated quicker and could show 15 kph more on the speedo wound out.
Yeah we know about speedo inaccuracies, but from riding his, the difference was quite astounding to mine.

[Pixie]

Ah... I think it's coming together now; run it hard for fast engine/short life, take it easy for slower/long life?

Kind of makes sense to me...
Wrong .......
Read this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

and this:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html#BreakIn

I followed these for my Bandit and it's better than my old one.

[Motu]

He makes it sound like he's invented something new - All Hail Motoman,the inventor of the All New Run In Method! We've been doing that for over 30 yrs,any competent mechanic will have a recon engine run in on a 30min test drive before it's given back to the customer.We don't rebuild many motors these days,but what we do different is assmeble them with practicaly no oil on the bore or rings,kinda scary,but these days they have to be run in quick.

[WINJA]

IVE RUN IN 2 GIXXER 1000S REAL HARD LIKE FLAT OUT IN TOP WITH 25KM ON THE ODO AND THEYVE BOTH BEEN GOOD

[Korea]

IVE RUN IN 2 GIXXER 1000S REAL HARD LIKE FLAT OUT IN TOP WITH 25KM ON THE ODO AND THEYVE BOTH BEEN GOOD
Hey thanks for the advice all~
After canvassing the internet and receiving advice from mechanics, I think I'll give it the hard start to life and let you know how I get on...

Cheers,

[Biff]

Different bikes/manufacturers=different advice. Listen to your own bike manufacturer's advice.

[Sniper]

What Biff said. Read your manual and stick with that. The manufacturer doesn't just write them for nothing.

[FzerozeroT]

A Hyosung 125, is that a two stroke? On those pages it specifically states that it is a run in method for four-strokes.

sorry, just checked your pic in the other thread, 4T it is.

[dawnrazor]

Okay so a HARD run in period might make for better ultimate performance, but a potential shorter life on engine components. But a very soft run in period will be worse for the bike as all your parts wont bed in and will glaze. Just follow the manual, don't trash it when its cold and ride it normally, I follewed the manual on the gixxer and have no complaints about performance, basically worked the rev range and kept it under or around the upper rev limit for the mileage. Took it for a big burn two days in a row, and that was 600 K, and did the rest in small hops and commuting.