Adding battery to bike

[bazbo]

Hey all

My Suzuki SMX50(70) does not have a battery and the lighting system runs from the stator. There is a regulator/rectifier that outputs 12vdc. I'd like to run a HID xenon headlight, but pretty sure I will need to add a battery to do this. Can anyone help me with what type of battery I should get, and where in the circuit I should wire it in? Will I also need a fuse? Thanks!
B

[Cloggy]

Simple wiring diagram. Just delete the bits your bike doesn't have like an electric starter and it will be even simpler.
322510

[bazbo]

Cool, so all i need to do is find the 12v output from the rectifier and the earth and connect the battery to that?
So any idea of where to get a small low profile battery? Just to help the lighting circuit, dont need cranking amps as its just a kick start....

[Akzle]

Cool, so all i need to do is find the 12v output from the rectifier and the earth and connect the battery to that?
So any idea of where to get a small low profile battery? Just to help the lighting circuit, dont need cranking amps as its just a kick start....

take your fucken pick. If you want a genuine auto battery, go to a bike shop.

If your not fussed, ny old drill bttery will do. Or duct tape 10 AAs together.

[RGVforme]

take your fucken pick. If you want a genuine auto battery, go to a bike shop.

If your not fussed, ny old drill bttery will do. Or duct tape 10 AAs together.

12 D sizes starts a small car :msn-wink:

[Akzle]

12 D sizes starts a small car :msn-wink:

yeah, but me mrs' dildo isn't D size...
who the fuck carries half a tonne of D batteries anyway??

[bazbo]

Useful boys thanks, but what i want is not a standard sized battery, i want something light and small as there is no real space, i don't really want to make my own...

[Akzle]

Useful boys thanks, but what i want is not a standard sized battery, i want something light and small as there is no real space, i don't really want to make my own...

try and find a 12v lithium drill pack then, probably the best option.
14v wont get charged enough, is my guess.

[bazbo]

Someone on another forum mentioned that it could overcharge the battery? Is that possible? I'm not sure that is correct?

[Akzle]

Someone on another forum mentioned that it could overcharge the battery? Is that possible? I'm not sure that is correct?

L.ions will take a bit of shit.
Li.po will explode.

Rec output should be <14.8 which =.4v/cell overvoltage, =<20%

which is well within the realms of tolerable.

Of course, 12v regulators are neither heavy or expensive. Overvoltage disconnects a bit more so but would be insurance against overcharging.

[bazbo]

L.ions will take a bit of shit.
Li.po will explode.

Rec output should be <14.8 which =.4v/cell overvoltage, =<20%

which is well within the realms of tolerable.

Of course, 12v regulators are neither heavy or expensive. Overvoltage disconnects a bit more so but would be insurance against overcharging.

Thanks for that.
If the battery is connected to the positive out from the rectifier/regulator then this should not be an issue though?

I'm thinking a battery like this will do the job for me (just improve lighting at idle basically):
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/batteries-mounts/auction-1110248034.htm

[Akzle]

Thanks for that.
If the battery is connected to the positive out from the rectifier/regulator then this should not be an issue though?

I'm thinking a battery like this will do the job for me (just improve lighting at idle basically):
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/batteries-mounts/auction-1110248034.htm

this bit:

"For external charging use a 1000 mA or less voltage regulated 12V charger"

if your rec is unregulated (probably) it will likely crank more than 1A. = splodey.

[Akzle]

the fuck's ed when you actually want him??

[RGVforme]

Someone on another forum mentioned that it could overcharge the battery? Is that possible? I'm not sure that is correct?

Yep any Battery is made for input and output at the same time ask anybody whos had a car shit the voltage regulator.
Battery electrons are the Bi swingers of the power world they go both ways when they cant they get frustrated and hot.

Whoever made trickle chargers for bikes needs shooting..Do nothing but heat up your battery without drawing off voltage shortening the life.
Your car or bike comes with a charger WTF do you need another one.
If you ant riding enough to keep your battery up then its a bike life issue rather than a battery one.:drinknsin

[RGVforme]

yeah, but me mrs' dildo isn't D size...
who the fuck carries half a tonne of D batteries anyway??

Must be an old model...We are all mains power in this house bruva......:laugh::hug:

[Akzle]

fuck. Sorry dog, didnt read good.
If you have a reg, then yeah. Plumb in the battery.

[neels]

If you use a sealed lead acid battery, as long as your rec/reg output is somewhere between 12.8-14.5VDC with the battery connected it will do the job fine, connect + to + via a fuse and - to - from the reg output.

Once you have it connected, rev the snot out of the bike to check the charging voltage, with lights on and lights off, if it's outside the numbers above it will either not charge the battery or fry it.

[husaberg]

My Suzuki SMX50(70) does not have a battery and the lighting system runs from the stator.
I 'm not totally familar with the bike but I am pretty sure it had a very similar engine to the old Rg50 if so this likely has a higher rate charging system
As rg50's were a popular Bucket F5 engine at one time, you can likely find a cheap higher rated stator by using one of these.


There is a regulator/rectifier that outputs 12vdc. Good

I'd like to run a HID xenon headlight, but pretty sure I will need to add a battery to do this.
its not the HID that will cause any issues rather the higher wattage demand that it may have compare the wattage.

Can anyone help me with what type of battery I should get, and where in the circuit I should wire it in?
You don't have to have a battery, but this will prevent the headlight going dim at lower revs or help to supplement a to small charging circuit for a while.

Will I also need a fuse? Thanks! Yes that would be a good idea if you were going to use a battery.
I would find out the wattage out put of the std stator and compare it to the RG50 stators output
Then compare that to the SMX50 std headlights wattage.
you should be able to find this on the net.
If not ask a question on the bucket bits wanted
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/93220-Bucket-bits-wanted-amp-services-needed/page124
Someone likely has a manual that will cover both and also likely knows where a few RG50 stators and rotors are.
If your heart is set on adding a battery as well try a small lithium battery such as a Shorari
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php/4262-Edbear
or Ultrabatt power blade.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php/18774-FastBikeGear

or maybe one of these
http://www.2t-racelab.com/p/online-store.html
he's also on KB

[bazbo]

I 'm not totally familar with the bike but I am pretty sure it had a very similar engine to the old Rg50 if so this likely has a higher rate charging system
As rg50's were a popular Bucket F5 engine at one time, you can likely find a cheap higher rated stator by using one of these.

Good

its not the HID that will cause any issues rather the higher wattage demand that it may have compare the wattage.

You don't have to have a battery, but this will prevent the headlight going dim at lower revs or help to supplement a to small charging circuit for a while.
Yes that would be a good idea if you were going to use a battery.
I would find out the wattage out put of the std stator and compare it to the RG50 stators output
Then compare that to the SMX50 std headlights wattage.
you should be able to find this on the net.
If not ask a question on the bucket bits wanted
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/93220-Bucket-bits-wanted-amp-services-needed/page124
Someone likely has a manual that will cover both and also likely knows where a few RG50 stators and rotors are.
If your heart is set on adding a battery as well try a small lithium battery such as a Shorari
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php/4262-Edbear
or Ultrabatt power blade.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php/18774-FastBikeGear

or maybe one of these
http://www.2t-racelab.com/p/online-store.html
he's also on KB

Indeed it is exactly the same engine as the RG50, so I would assume the same stator aswell. Thanks for the answers, I'll head over to the bucket forum.

[bazbo]

or maybe one of these
http://www.2t-racelab.com/p/online-store.html
he's also on KB


Ps - I actually already have one of those battery eliminators spare from another project, when I asked the seller on ebay he said that my bike likely already has a capacitor like this from factory (a condensor?), but I am not sure it has. Is it worth me adding this in after the rectifier to see if it helps?

[bazbo]

actually I think the rg50 had a battery?

[husaberg]

actually I think the rg50 had a battery?

Yes they would have, but they also might have had a higher output stator. Yes it could be the same but as the rg50 was a road bike it could be better, but you need to check.
I would suggest you try and find an online service manual they will list the charging outputs.
they will also have a wiring diagram.
It is possible to rewind the old lighting coils anyway, to uprate them to a higher output.
With a little nous, you can do this at home. as long as you take your time and can count.
It is also not that difficult to even uprate the bike to a proper alternator.
TzZ50 did a how to, on both the ESE thread.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130953057#post1130953057
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130922273#post1130922273
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130906403#post1130906403
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130733819#post1130733819
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130727954#post1130727954
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/150352-Team-GPR?p=1130651815#post1130651815

Also this site explains how to do it
http://cdibuilder.blogspot.co.nz/2008/02/before-to-lern-cdi-build-for-bigbike.html
There are places that sell ready made uprated lighting coils and set up such as electrix world
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk
Also ricky stator
http://www.rickystator.com/
but there might not be one listed for your bike. But you never know.
Treatland in the us would be another place to look.
https://www.treatland.tv/new-puch-peugeot-motobecane-vespa-moped-parts-s/88.htm
As well as this place
http://www.50cc.eu/en/parts_3.asp?Hg=All&Km=&M=suzuki&T=dr 50 big lc&TA=SuzDrb&I=529&Ag=46

[F5 Dave]

Can't be bothered reading all thread but a bulb from a Yamaha Blaster is Halogen with same fittings and good improvement for an RG with minimum outlay and can be driven. RMX will be the same.

[bazbo]

Can't be bothered reading all thread but a bulb from a Yamaha Blaster is Halogen with same fittings and good improvement for an RG with minimum outlay and can be driven. RMX will be the same.

Thanks, I actually ordered a halogen bulb last week, still awaiting it's arrival, but sounds like it might do the job.

[F5 Dave]

HID won'tbe legal and have a reasonable spike in power requirement. The set Itook off my Tiger have quite a heatsink. If you really must a box of Panhead XPA or Pilsner would secure them.

[husaberg]

Can't be bothered reading all thread but a bulb from a Yamaha Blaster is Halogen with same fittings and good improvement for an RG with minimum outlay and can be driven. RMX will be the same.

Do you have access to a Rg50 manual Dave?

[F5 Dave]

Only bits of one, sort of became irrelevant the less things remained stock.