Triton Build

[Lemmy]

Hi all have been a long time reader but today I,m a first time poster ,thought I would share some photos and share some problems that I need help with and a few experiences with a few builds I have done in the past so its a big fat Kia Ora to all on this site .Cheers

[Lemmy]

Ok that worked ,so a bit of history on this one I am just trying to finish off this winter while the weather is crud.
I built this from scratch pretty much I managed to get a reasonably straight Slimline featherbed for a steal of a guy " Mike' who had been racing with a JAP motor in it and bought a complete Triumph Bitsa of Bob Nesbitt to steal all the running gear etc as i wanted the 56 pre unit 650 motor and box, well after a fair few headahes blood sweat and tears I,m almost ready to give her a kick in the guts.
One problem I have and there is many I noticed was when I poured some petrol into the tank I have a slight leak from around the socket where its built into the tank as its fiberglass I am probaly going to need to find someone who can dig it out and re resin it in ,anyone on here do fiberglass tank repairs???
Another problem I have is I fitted an alternator to the Engine but when I slide the stator on to the crankshaft and tighten the nut stud thing the whole motor seizes up almost like its pulling the crank out and its jamming something , once I get all the little niggly jobs done I can start my next project

[ellipsis]

G'day Lemmy...if you expected thunderbolts and lightening to ensue, after your entry, then it should have been in another thread and either agreeing or disagreeing with someone over either trivia, or monumental cataclysmic world affairs...welcome...

[Grumph]

Good effort so far...re the stator, if the retaining screws aren't too long and fouling the crank - don't laugh, I've seen it....the classic way of aligning the stator on the rotor so it doesn't touch is to wrap paper round the rotor and slide the stator over that. There's usually enough slop on the mounting holes that it won't self align.
Fill the backs of the levers on the bars - devcon or a similar filler works. If you ever take it on track that's a necessity.
When you make up the rod for the rear brake, ensure that when "on" the front rod pivot pin lines up with the swingarm spindle - much nicer when the pedal doesn't move with the suspension...

Personally, I'd have replaced the rear subframe with straight tube ala wideline. I've seen it done on a couple of frames and it looks much better IMO.

Do you know how to do engine turning on the engine plates ?

If you can find another crankshaft timing pinion, it is possible to make up a replica GP tacho drive from the old generator drive spot. I've done it on a T100 engine which is the same in that area.

Carry on....

[jellywrestler]

Hi all have been a log time reader but today I,m a first time poster ,thought I would share some photos and share some problems that I need help with and a few experiences with a few builds I have done in the past so its a big fat Kia Ora to all on this site .Cheers

nice piccies on the wall, is that in a hair dressing salon?

[husaberg]

like.............
A very different oil tank as well, not the usual rhomboid Manx style.

[admenk]

Can't give you much help technically i'm afraid, other than to say "well done and keep up the good work" :first: Now for the "59" patch, studs and goggles....:2thumbsup

[Voltaire]

Re tank, get a resin kit and mix it yourself. probably need a bit of heat this time of year, one of those 500 watt halogen work lamps.
Then use a POR 15 seal kit. Worked on my Norton.
Altenator if the bolts are not too long as mentioned is shimming the stator and making sure it does not touch the rotor ( rotating bit).
Running a 4 speed gearbox?

[Lemmy]

Cheers guys for the input yeah running the early gearbox hoping eventually to track a later one down that's been converted to a 5 speed,.
The stator has plenty of clearance turns over fine until you tighten the centre nut stud thing,.
I was hoping to track the gùy down who made the tank for me 14 years ago,Euroglass from Christchurch just to ask what type of resin too use ,wish I had of pressure tested it before I had in painted in hindsight and wish I had of just bought an Alloy one now with all the problems with ethanol and fiberglass breaking down.
Oh well all lessons learnt has any one bought an Alloy tank for a Norton from India the price of those on Ebay seems to be to good to be true?

[Kickaha]

CI was hoping to track the gùy down who made the tank for me 14 years ago,Euroglass from Christchurch just to ask what type of resin too use

Dave Sewell (Eurodave on here), will pm you his number, ask for a warranty claim

[Voltaire]

I've been looking at this Norton tank for ages
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162127009281?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
One of the Norton guys on Access Norton bought one and says they are ok.

I gather its a bit hit and miss as the sellers are not always the makers. " toolings" suggests they are pressed and not hand made.
for a couple of hundy might be worth a punt.

[Grumph]

No experience of the Indian tanks - but Asa Moyce in Northern Ireland who did a lot of alloy tanks ( Bartels) used a lot of pressings. Sensible way to do small run stuff at an economical price.
With the stator removed, does the crank still lock when you tighten the center nut ? Rotor too long for this crank ?

[Paul in NZ]

Well - since you are putting an alternator onto a set of generator engine cases lets assume you are NOT using an all one year bottom end? ie you have an alternator crankshaft?

The crankshaft is 'usually' located by the timing side ball bearing and there should be a washer between the crankshaft timing pinion and the bearing. This locks the crankshaft and prevents any side-to-side movement. HOWEVER Triumph has changed this around over the years from one side to the other and back. Ie some engines were located on the drive side so first job is to determine what you have and that its located properly. Either way, the crankshaft should be retained and there should be no side-to-side movement!

If you are pulling the crank onto the rotor or the rotor onto the case it may be where its jamming so you might need a spacer that sits up against the drive side bearing inner race. Look for something like that in a pre unit parts book.

[Paul in NZ]

Actually scrap that idea - is the rotor on a taper or a parallel shaft?

[Grumph]

Actually scrap that idea - is the rotor on a taper or a parallel shaft?

may have to relieve the inner chaincase.

This sort of thing is often not fun - I put a Norton crank in a Triumph once. Spacers plus relieving the cases...

[Lemmy]

It's on a parralel shaft Paul have to get a later model catalogs showing a exploded view maybe I,m missing a spacer or washer or something

[Paul in NZ]

It's on a parralel shaft Paul have to get a later model catalogs showing a exploded view maybe I,m missing a spacer or washer or something

Is the rotor fouling the inner case??

[Paul in NZ]

This has been bugging me a bit today because I cant remember how that all attaches on a pre unit - sorry its been a long time and most of my pre units were generator equipped.

I see yours has an adaptor ring - pretty sure that's standard on a pre-unit. The unit motors use a sort of waisted stud arrangement which is a lot better. However just looking at the picture your rotor is definitely NOT central inside the stator and that's a problem so best address that first. I think you can adjust it by loosening the ring and re tightening and if that's not enough - remove it and rotate the ring 1 fixing hole and try again.

Attached is a 64 crank diagram and you can see the spacers I was talking about. Not sure if this applied to yours.

[Motu]

Here's my one from about '73/'74. A wideline with a '61 T110 engine...and as usual for the time, nothing was as intended...all later model stuff in there. I later converted it to duplex primary...and there were a few issues. That's not a pre unit alt, although I don't know if there was any difference. As Paul says, the crank should be located by the timing side ball, and the stator puts no load on anything.

Edit - I notice in the later pic I've fitted a later model rear wheel, a 9 stud head, and that's an HS2 SU carb.

323190323191

[Lemmy]

This has been bugging me a bit today because I cant remember how that all attaches on a pre unit - sorry its been a long time and most of my pre units were generator equipped.

I see yours has an adaptor ring - pretty sure that's standard on a pre-unit. The unit motors use a sort of waisted stud arrangement which is a lot better. However just looking at the picture your rotor is definitely NOT central inside the stator and that's a problem so best address that first. I think you can adjust it by loosening the ring and re tightening and if that's not enough - remove it and rotate the ring 1 fixing hole and try again.

Attached is a 64 crank diagram and you can see the spacers I was talking about. Not sure if this applied to yours.

Cheers for that Paul I seem to be missing part# 21 , and# 24 hope British spares have them in stock.

[Lemmy]

Here's my one from about '73/'74. A wideline with a '61 T110 engine...and as usual for the time, nothing was as intended...all later model stuff in there. I later converted it to duplex primary...and there were a few issues. That's not a pre unit alt, although I don't know if there was any difference. As Paul says, the crank should be located by the timing side ball, and the stator puts no load on anything.

Edit - I notice in the later pic I've fitted a later model rear wheel, a 9 stud head, and that's an HS2 SU carb.

323190323191

Thats cool Motu always keen to see pics of Kiwi Tritons I think everyone needs to build a "special" once in their life my next one is going to be a bit easier I want to build a replica XR750 HD flat tracker.

[pete376403]

my next one is going to be a bit easier I want to build a replica XR750 HD flat tracker.

With two front cylinder heads and dual Mikunis?

[husaberg]

With two front cylinder heads and dual Mikunis?

Plus two huge K&N's

[Grumph]

Cheers for that Paul I seem to be missing part# 21 , and# 24 hope British spares have them in stock.

#21 can easily be machined up in mild steel. Loctite has largely made #24 redundant....

[Paul in NZ]

Cheers for that Paul I seem to be missing part# 21 , and# 24 hope British spares have them in stock.

Best to get a diagram from a preunit to see how it fits together. That's from 64 so it might be different.

Pretty sure there should be a spacer there that's suitable to the seal on that side. ie the drive side oil seal runs on the spacer!! You might have a mix of parts... The sprocket butts onto the spacer and the rotor pulls the whole thing tight.

[nadroj]

Triton at New Plymouth Classic Motorcycle show last weekend.

[haydes55]

Your triton is cooler than my triton
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/f0e10759de43ae4f44bcc972d8835bc5.jpg

[Lemmy]

Triton at New Plymouth Classic Motorcycle show last weekend.

Very nice really wanted to make the trip down to the Naki love that town ,call me a Triton snob and I love them all but love the pre unit ones just a little bit more.

[Lemmy]

[QUOTE=haydes55;1130987336]Your triton is cooler than my triton
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160719/f0e10759de43ae4f44bcc972d8835bc5.jpg[/QUOTE
Lol still nice wagons though .

[Lemmy]

The Triumph that had to be sacrificed to make a triton because it had the right front end right motor wrong gearbox and right rims, not all was lost as we had a T100 motor that slotted straight into the old frame which is on the "To do list".