New to motorbikes - Drz250 broke down in town

[blindnz]

Hey guys,

I did some searching but couldn't find anything that looked up to date.

Firstly the bike is stuck in town(parked up at work) I took some tools in and I think ive got a issue that's spark related.

Firstly I need to get it home/to a shop.

1. Does anyone know if motorcycle recover service still around? Or potentially I'll hire a little van. Otherwise do shops pick up?

2. Where do I buy parts. I'm use to cars where pick-a-part or repco would be my first go. No idea on where I would source Suzuki parts if I wanted to fix it myself?

Lastly, any view on Holeshot on Barry's point road? They look to be a Suzuki dealer and therefore should be able to help out. But likewise I don't want to get tugged.

For reference its a oldish drz250

Cheers.

[Gremlin]

Yep, Kevin is definitely around: http://motorcyclerecovery.vpweb.co.nz/Contact-Us.html

If you get a van, you need to make sure it's tall enough to take your bike, but if in a parking garage, if the van is too tall you won't fit.

Yes, dealers, or wreckers if it's something old as there could be parts.

[blindnz]

Ah cheers.It's an 04 drz250.

I'll try get it home tomorrow and then work to track down a lead/coil.

[justanothernoob]

did you manage to get it picked up? If not and if you're on the shore, I have a tow-bar - trailer will cost you 20-40 bucks for a few hours' hire so just holler if you need someone to help you pick it up.

Also - check out Action Bike Wreckers on Barrys Point Road - http://www.actionbikewreckers.co.nz.

Good luck and don't let this put you off that bike!

[awayatc]

Ah cheers.It's an 04 drz250.

I'll try get it home tomorrow and then work to track down a lead/coil.

Try to do a bit of proper fault finding.....
No spark....maybe sidestand switch, clutch switch (not sure yours has them or not) kill switch.
Most of these switches earth your live wire from flywheel side of engine....
More likely to have a broken/faulty earthwire in that circuit somewhere then a faulty coil....

[iYRe]

george from motorcycle doctors will come pick it up, take it away and fix it and bring it back.. cant beat that.

[blindnz]

Try to do a bit of proper fault finding.....
No spark....maybe sidestand switch, clutch switch (not sure yours has them or not) kill switch.
Most of these switches earth your live wire from flywheel side of engine....
More likely to have a broken/faulty earthwire in that circuit somewhere then a faulty coil.... sorry should have been clearer it has some weak intermittent spark even when boosted with car battery.

[blindnz]

I took a video of spark
https://youtu.be/97T4ZsROMv8

Looks ok, I am wondering what would effect timing I've open the throttle And sprayed starting fluid in and it still doesn't do anything but turn over. No coughing nothing.
I wonder if it could be timing related? I would have expected with some spark and something to ignite it should at least have coughed...

It's also odd because it was running well until I stopped at a set of lights and just died/stalled on take off and couldn't be restarted.

[Akzle]

do you have valves? compression?
spark in air does not equals spark in chamber.

[blindnz]

do you have valves? compression?
spark in air does not equals spark in chamber.

I don't have a compression tester to test actual compression. but there is some there when I go to kick start or crash start. I haven't ever kick started the bike so not sure if its a fair comparison.
I had thought about a dropped valve. But would have expected to hear some gnarly noises as it was turning over.

[MarkW]

DRz's have a very small battery and mine also has a hard wired headlight as well so the starting technique has to be correct if the bike is to be started.

If the bike was running and simply stopped at the lights it is highly unlikely that much has gone wrong.

1. Have you simply run out of gas on the main supply and should now be on reserve. [Reserve tap points up for reserve, down for the main supply]

2. It's now a few days since the bike "died". So if you have spent some time trying to get the bike started on the electric starter if you haven't recharged the battery it will be well down on voltage.

3. Is the bike in neutral when you are trying to start it - if not put it into neutral. That way if the side stand switch is faulty the bike should still start.

4. Is the clutch lever in when you are trying to start the bike - if not pull it in even if you are in neutral.

5. Is the engine kill switch on the right hand handlebar correctly in the "on' position?

6. The bike engine is now stone cold so get a fully charged battery - 12.6 volts would be good., use quick shut to full throttle opening and closing of the throttle at least twice [my DRZ prefers 5 or 6 pumps] to get the throttle pump to dump some extra fuel into the intake, give the bike FULL choke on the lever [all the way out for the knob on the carb], leave the throttle CLOSED and hit the starter button. If the engine is going to fire it should do so within 5 seconds of hitting the starter button. There is no point on grinding on the starter for any longer than 5 seconds. If the bike half fires but doesn't keep running then turn the key off, repeat the number of throttle pumps that you used PLUS one more. Return throttle to closed, turn key on and hit the electric start again.
With extra fuel the bike may well now start.

7. If there is absolutely no sign of life at all having done the above then the last road side option is a long steep hill and a decent speed to bump start the bike. You'll need second or third gear at least to get the engine to turn over which means a decent speed to start with - 20 kph would be good. Again full choke, but with a tiny [as in very tiny] amount of throttle. At 20kph dump the clutch and experiment with the throttle to see if you can get the bike to fire.

Your problem will most likely be very small and simple so until you have eliminated every simple possibility forget dropped valves, broken camchains, holes in the piston, changed timing, broken crankshafts and all the rest of the highly unlikely stuff.

I'm picking that the bike has simply run low on gas. And then the battery was run low. Even with a jumper battery if the bike has no fuel in the carb it won't start.

Mark W

[blindnz]

DRz's have a very small battery and mine also has a hard wired headlight as well so the starting technique has to be correct if the bike is to be started.

If the bike was running and simply stopped at the lights it is highly unlikely that much has gone wrong.

1. Have you simply run out of gas on the main supply and should now be on reserve. [Reserve tap points up for reserve, down for the main supply]

2. It's now a few days since the bike "died". So if you have spent some time trying to get the bike started on the electric starter if you haven't recharged the battery it will be well down on voltage.

3. Is the bike in neutral when you are trying to start it - if not put it into neutral. That way if the side stand switch is faulty the bike should still start.

4. Is the clutch lever in when you are trying to start the bike - if not pull it in even if you are in neutral.

5. Is the engine kill switch on the right hand handlebar correctly in the "on' position?

6. The bike engine is now stone cold so get a fully charged battery - 12.6 volts would be good., use quick shut to full throttle opening and closing of the throttle at least twice [my DRZ prefers 5 or 6 pumps] to get the throttle pump to dump some extra fuel into the intake, give the bike FULL choke on the lever [all the way out for the knob on the carb], leave the throttle CLOSED and hit the starter button. If the engine is going to fire it should do so within 5 seconds of hitting the starter button. There is no point on grinding on the starter for any longer than 5 seconds. If the bike half fires but doesn't keep running then turn the key off, repeat the number of throttle pumps that you used PLUS one more. Return throttle to closed, turn key on and hit the electric start again.
With extra fuel the bike may well now start.

7. If there is absolutely no sign of life at all having done the above then the last road side option is a long steep hill and a decent speed to bump start the bike. You'll need second or third gear at least to get the engine to turn over which means a decent speed to start with - 20 kph would be good. Again full choke, but with a tiny [as in very tiny] amount of throttle. At 20kph dump the clutch and experiment with the throttle to see if you can get the bike to fire.

Your problem will most likely be very small and simple so until you have eliminated every simple possibility forget dropped valves, broken camchains, holes in the piston, changed timing, broken crankshafts and all the rest of the highly unlikely stuff.

I'm picking that the bike has simply run low on gas. And then the battery was run low. Even with a jumper battery if the bike has no fuel in the carb it won't start.


1. Bike was/is full with Gas. At the time it was probably 2/3 full. I switched it to Res and no luck starting. Jump started on both res and on to see if it was a switch issue. I also filled a few more liters so its up to the brim and have tried again at home.
2. I did the above again while jumping it with a car. I have also since recharged the battery and still same issue.
3. Yes. tried in both Neutral and 1. Even cranked it in 1st with the clutch partially engaged to check if it would lurch under compression. There is also no side stand switch. I am trying to trace this back in case it has been removed and is grounding out. I would expect this to kill the starter or spark completely though. Am I right?
4. Yes. Clutch lever has a kill switch on it. Doesn't crank unless its engaged. When engaged the starter cranks.
5. I've checked the kill switch. With the kill switch off the starter doesn't crank at all. Switch set to on starter cranks the bike.
6. I've recharged the battery and I've tried starting with different choke settings. I don't even get a cough on any setting. (I will post a video of it cranking)
7. Will give a crash start another go.

Hence the head scratching.

[SVboy]

My DRZ is hard to start when cold. Will try the throttle pump idea. If it has spark, fuel is your next call. Is fuel flowing from the tank? Take fuel line off carb and test flow by turning on the tap. Ok? Then carb may have a block. Not super easy to get off, but ok if you tackle it in a methodical manner. Strip carb and clean. Be very careful of the soft screws holding the bowl on. Not confident with this? See dealer. Don't crank a DRZ too much on the starter, it is a known weak point of these motors.

[Akzle]

see that you have fuel AT the carb. preferably inside.
and get/gap a new plug.

[blindnz]

see that you have fuel AT the carb. preferably inside.
and get/gap a new plug.

There's fuel in the carb, it streams out when I remove it and tip it up. Also plenty coming from the tank.
I haven't managed to crack the screws on the carb float go check it internally as the screws are soft and won't budge. I will take it in to the shop and see if they can open/check the carb for me.
I had thought that even a blocked carb wouldn't block all jets so should still cough at worst.

Cheers for the help guys. Will report back

[SVboy]

Spark looks good, fuel could be the issue. They come with two carb types, a flat slide or a cv carb. Perhaps one of the jets is blocked? Might be an idea to take the whole bike to the shop, just in case it is a very easy fix.

[Akzle]

your jets are numbered two. an idle one and a not idle one.
if one is blocked/sticking/generally or otherwise fucked, good chance the other one is too.
valve does not need to be dropped to cause gay. blocked/stickinglgenerally or otherwise fucked will do it all the same.

check compression. check valves. (leak down)

but seriously, go and get a new $7 spark plug.

[blindnz]

your jets are numbered two. an idle one and a not idle one.
if one is blocked/sticking/generally or otherwise fucked, good chance the other one is too.
valve does not need to be dropped to cause gay. blocked/stickinglgenerally or otherwise fucked will do it all the same.

check compression. check valves. (leak down)

but seriously, go and get a new $7 spark plug.

I forgot to mention I've tried a different plug. The plug in there was 2 weeks old. Swapped to the old and still no luck.

[blindnz]

I forgot to mention I've tried a different plug. The plug in there was 2 weeks old. Swapped to the old and still no luck.

Got it sorted took it to the motorcycle doctor. It wasn't fuel or spark and was timing related as I suspected. What I was told is the fly wheel had come loose and twisted messing with the timing. A sack of money later and it's all fixed.

[SVboy]

Wow. Odd problem. Glad you got it sorted.