Suzuki Katana 1100sz

[IronPawz]

Years back I started a thread on doing up a 7/11 1982 Katana which I have.

Since then I've changed the chain and sprockets over to the lighter (530 conversion) and purchased a Bandit 1200 1997-2002 swing arm (but nothing else). Presently it is in getting the clutch sorted with Bruce from Motorcycle Inspection Services who is sharpening it up with better springs and will look it over generally.

I'm still keen on the suspension and breaks (more so than the motor which is good enough for now). I've read this site a lot

http://www.suzuki-katana.com/katana_suspension.html

Particularly

"upside down forks, 1993 GSX-R 750 front ends fit best for the Katana. '93 are the longest but the 1994 and 1995 also work.'92-'98 GSXR 1100 forks work ... The GSX-R 750 forks however, are 1" shorter than the GSX-R 1100, which can be augmented by installing Honda 954 drop triples. "

I've looked for ages but they are rare at least I've never found them or another GSX1100 engine (so I can eventually do one up and swap them also). Lots of general reading still really gets me to the same issue, parts. Once collected I am happy I can find people to get it sorted but I though hey its been a few years why not come back here and see if anyone has some ideas or parts or likes to talk modified KAT.

I have a long commute on my current Fireblade and while I love that bike to ride it just is not as much fun on doing it on a modernised Kat (even if it never gets close to the blade in performance as long as its a big improvement on stock handling and breaks I'd ride it 2+ hours a day and be happy to sell the Blade). Makes you wonder if the Blade could be changed to Kat styled... Like they do with the GSX1400's.

[AllanB]

The dollar is good. Ebay will be your friend.

[IronPawz]

The dollar is good. Ebay will be your friend.

Yeah come to think of it others said much the same last time. I've just never done it and really need to fix that specific retardation in this case. So good reminder I will do exactly that. I've plenty of friends who do this after all. Tones of people have done up Kat's world wide so it is nothing new and if only parts are holding me back this is the clear solution.

Ebay here I come!

[98tls]

Sign up for Paypal mate,makes the process so simple,ive been buying bike stuff for years os and never had a problem.

[IronPawz]

So I spoke to another bike builder group http://www.thepacificmotorcycleco.com and had a really great chat. Very good guy, good business (seemed to me) doing good work with a good waiting list. Very genuine advice (I have had before in part) being ideally collect parts and when ready off we go.

Anything can fit anything with $$. But looking about the parts list known to work with reasonable $$ is very hard to find (early GSXR). No luck at all on ebay. No ability to ballpark figures (which is I think perfectly reasonable). I feel sunk in this project and hopelessly out of my depth in terms of understanding what can be done reasonably or finding the parts effectively. Is this $10k, $20k, $50k? Does anyone actually have experience locally in this specific type of build who can source parts? Am I just dreaming here?

It seems to me the only actual way to know what the cost is, if the bike works and to actually own one is to try source one completed in the world (so many have been done) and just stump up and pay for it. with really no idea of a build cost (at all) and no one who can give it a number range at all (so it seems) and no real ability or time to learn the trade and do it personally is that my only (still far fetched) option?

On the bright side (I am disheartened and whining I know) I am not selling the old girl and can ride it with the wet noodle suspension it has on nice fine days for some years and just come back to it. Perhaps I'll get sorted to the point of an open cheque book build at some point.

First world problems!!

[AllanB]

I'd be looking for viable alternatives.

The hayabusa is a tall bike - have you measured up the front end length on one of these? I'd pose they may be a suitable length and if so I'd be scouting for a full front end including brakes. That would keep it in the family.

I've seen them on ebay in the past but also do some research into USA motorcycle wreckers (breakers) - start Googling to see if there are Suzuki specific ones. I've seen all but new bikes with sweet all damage (cosmetic) being broken into parts as they were new bike insurance write-offs.


Beyond that have you been you you local Suzuki dealer with a tape measure checking out the relative length of models front ends? If it is short a small amount a machined top clamp with suitable offset can take up the missing length. I've seen some radical ones on line. Like this type of thing

https://cognitomoto.com/collections/fork-conversion-parts/products/1-rise-triple-clamp-lower


Klasmo will probably have a conversion kit. Nothing is cheap on there though. Purdy stuff .....

[sidecar bob]

Unless you you actually want to change the front end for styling purposes, then modifying what you already have is viable.
I have a gsx1100 pre '82 race bike with original forks with some internal mods, It has a pair of Lockheed calipers on it with a bandit 1200 front wheel & discs assembly. It works great.
Would be happy to send you some pics & measurements.

[AllanB]

Bloody good point. a Bandit 1200 front is possibly a similar length and you can upgrade internals easily plus use the better stoppers. Or a GS1200ss front end - better stoppers.

And the bonus is it will still 'look' period correct, unless you are looking for the muscular USD front.

[IronPawz]

I'd be looking for viable alternatives.

The hayabusa is a tall bike - have you measured up the front end length on one of these? I'd pose they may be a suitable length and if so I'd be scouting for a full front end including brakes. That would keep it in the family.

I've seen them on ebay in the past but also do some research into USA motorcycle wreckers (breakers) - start Googling to see if there are Suzuki specific ones. I've seen all but new bikes with sweet all damage (cosmetic) being broken into parts as they were new bike insurance write-offs.

Beyond that have you been you you local Suzuki dealer with a tape measure checking out the relative length of models front ends? If it is short a small amount a machined top clamp with suitable offset can take up the missing length. I've seen some radical ones on line. Like this type of thing

https://cognitomoto.com/collections/fork-conversion-parts/products/1-rise-triple-clamp-lower

Klasmo will probably have a conversion kit. Nothing is cheap on there though. Purdy stuff .....

Those look fantastic. My issue is really I just don't know enough about it. So I've tried to stick with what does seem to be known and cannot find the parts. I drowned in all the information and still have little to no idea outside a well detailed 'done it' discussion. No idea where to start measuring things just makes me thing doing that is going to see me buy things that are just a bad idea.

Realistically you need some idea I think to start and getting something like a well understood 1991-93 GSXR front end means they just bolt on whereas something else needs all kinds of converting making one option viable and the other seemingly needlessly expensive (someone else will do the fitting but again they want you to do the buying of parts). It just seems impossible right now (I don't have weeks to learn it all). I'm really getting over trying to find more details I've been at it for ages at different times over a few years now and I just keep coming back here http://www.suzuki-katana.com/katana_suspension.html and looking for those parts to no avail. As for going outside this that is a leap that really needs knowledge before you get the tap measure out. Most likely I will just find one of those front ends one day and that will start the process.

Appreciate the comments, hate to sound like the whinny little birch sapping I do in here. If I can source some known bits (and I will) find a builder with time (and I will) then it will get there in time.

[IronPawz]

Unless you you actually want to change the front end for styling purposes, then modifying what you already have is viable.
I have a gsx1100 pre '82 race bike with original forks with some internal mods, It has a pair of Lockheed calipers on it with a bandit 1200 front wheel & discs assembly. It works great.
Would be happy to send you some pics & measurements.


Totally reasonable point. It is a 750 frame with a 1100 motor so I really do want that modernised look without loosing the style. This is the one:
http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-katana

That is totally what I want. Surprisingly they use a later front end
* CBR954 Yokes (triple clamps)
* TL1000 Clip ons
* GSXR750 k4 forks and mudguard

Much easier to get hold of but implications on fitting costs / height for road use I just don't know. Really great offer for sure. I've had it in mind well before I brought the bike (some years back) and if it takes me 5 years to get real time, learn slowly or just stump up the funds to go silly open checkbook reputable builder then all good. Anything less and I'll being going, cool to ride but it doesn't have those sexy USD forks. This bike it going to get frequent commuting. It is not for show generally but still that is my ideal and I've not given up on it yet (that is finding the old school when known to work options that are not expensive to fit). Having said that I don't really understand the cost differences so i the scheme it might not be that much.

When I get it back (in shop for clutch) I will start to measure up what it has, that is a start.

[IronPawz]

Bloody good point. a Bandit 1200 front is possibly a similar length and you can upgrade internals easily plus use the better stoppers. Or a GS1200ss front end - better stoppers.

And the bonus is it will still 'look' period correct, unless you are looking for the muscular USD front.

Yeah it is USD or Die its just been dreamed of in that form for to long. They just look so much nicer with them, like my version of sex on wheels http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-katana. That bike makes me reach for the kleenex.

[IronPawz]

This is sooo close and the person very nicely offered to let it be returned if it is does not go. It is just outside the listed years known to go well.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wrecking-bikes/auction-1139977419.htm

By the time I could understand if it would work (through a builder) it would be unreasonable to ask to return it. Still now with front wheel it would be a great deal (unless I guess it needs a complete rebuild but then at that age it should get one anyway and I don't actually know what that costs either).

If there was someone in the know I could pay for these answers I'd have no issue dropping reasonable coin just on that (the knowledge like a build project manager). I've no issue spending some coin in this way. Be happy to do it. A $1000 spent in this way for a good result would make itself back easy in terms of over all build expense.

[Arronduke]

Hi I have built a 750/1100 Kat. the best option for an engine is a 1135EFE, these are grunt motors and are still used for drag racing today.
They are the last of the roller crank motors and the crank come welded from factory. You can take them out to 1400cc but the most popular is the 1230 kit.

The engine goes straight in, with new bottom engine mount which you can find drawings for on line.
I went with the EFE CDI and changed the wiring to suit which was not hard, I most likely will have the drawing some where.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC00090_zps1fbc17e3.jpg

The bike is quite different now as this is an old photo. I have the standard swingarm running a 170 18in and 120 17in on the front. CBR 900 discs with Kawasaki twin pot calipers on the front.

I am also building a GSX1100E with GSXR11 USD forks, Honda triple clamps as the are raised to gain ground clearance, bandit swingarm and wheel. I have most parts and the build will start after some Kat work and my RG5 is finished. I purchased most of the fitting parts for the GSX11 of bandit man as the link earlier in this thread.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC00456_zpswf3k1wxn.jpg

The 1135 engine is a beast... last of the air cooled. They come from 84-86 GSX bikes.

let me know if you have ant questions.
cheers

[sidecar bob]

If you want all the benefits of an 1135 but prefer the older look engine, you can use the crank & rods, clutch, sleeves & Pistons & bigger inlet valves & cams in the earlier cases & head with virtually no fuss.
Machining the head for the valves & boring the block for the bigger sleeves is the only machining cost.

[Katman]

Yeah it is USD or Die its just been dreamed of in that form for to long. They just look so much nicer with them, like my version of sex on wheels http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-katana. That bike makes me reach for the kleenex.

I've never understood why anyone would go for the empty space under the seat where the airbox and battery box would normally go.

It just looks wrong.

[Arronduke]

And to add... yes the front mud guard has been lowered to suit, indicators are now LED version on the side of the top fairing.
Electrics are to be up graded as are the forks, I have new stanching's and progressive spring when the forks are to be done. Love the USD but I have not this on the Kat, to far gone with the kat to change now...the EZ will have long swingarm, USD and look mean.

[Arronduke]

I've never understood why anyone would go for the empty space under the seat where the airbox and battery box would normally go.

It just looks wrong.

Could not agree more!

[Katman]

Could not agree more!

It's one thing if the space is utilized to fit a single shock but the plastic side covers just look odd with the empty space behind them.

[IronPawz]

Hi I have built a 750/1100 Kat. the best option for an engine is a 1135EFE, these are grunt motors and are still used for drag racing today.
They are the last of the roller crank motors and the crank come welded from factory. You can take them out to 1400cc but the most popular is the 1230 kit.

The engine goes straight in, with new bottom engine mount which you can find drawings for on line.
I went with the EFE CDI and changed the wiring to suit which was not hard, I most likely will have the drawing some where.
The 1135 engine is a beast... last of the air cooled. They come from 84-86 GSX bikes.

let me know if you have ant questions.
cheers

Some great bikes there! My Kat has a GSX1100E engine so bits of two of your bikes. As for the 1135 how about this one?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-1133008879.htm

I talked to that guy (good man on the phone) and considered doing a deal (swap mine). He mentioned that engine is getting tired so I think mine is ok for now (first suspension etc and later engine not other way around).

I sure do have a question if you know and that is just any estimate for costs involved in any specific USD option for the Kat which I think is essentially the same as period GSX1100s generally. I hear the later GSXR forks are just to short and the early ones are just to hard to find (but I will keep trying). Totally inspired by your stable and pics. I'm not generally up and down but I seem to be over the poor Kat recently, still summer is coming and once I am riding it as is things might change. The standard shocks with those I would imagine well improved breaks look good. That is what I notice most riding it, slow to pull up (unfair to compare to Blade though not sure how much difference is in the better setup on the standard suspension. Bigger wheels on standard swingarm could be a go still with decent back shocks replacement.

Thanks heaps for sharing those wire wheels look fantastic! Maybe I just need to see something like that in the flesh and get a new perspective.

[IronPawz]

If you want all the benefits of an 1135 but prefer the older look engine, you can use the crank & rods, clutch, sleeves & Pistons & bigger inlet valves & cams in the earlier cases & head with virtually no fuss.
Machining the head for the valves & boring the block for the bigger sleeves is the only machining cost.

That is good to know. I don't mind so much either way, I like that big wide standard motor and it find it decent as it (mine is GSX1100E but with Kat spec carb setup (as told by seller) and horrible loud single exhaust. Of course I have ridden my Blade down the drag strip for an afternoon and in 6-7 open days (in the slow group) and daily for 53,000kms since I rode it last so I might have a change in perspective since then. I do remember it just pulling like mad but would be nice to have another gear on the long commute.

Nice to know you can drop in the 1135 (if you can find one as I've looked for another GSX1100 engine for years with no joy at all so one could be done up on the side) or just get the benefits and keep the original. Mmmm you guys are leaning me back to keeping more original look and just improving the ride and breaks. Way more achievable and they are great to look at in any form (to my eye).

[IronPawz]

I've never understood why anyone would go for the empty space under the seat where the airbox and battery box would normally go.

It just looks wrong.

Reading the threat on that build most people say the same thing. I like some space in there because it looks modern but I agree with the comments that at least an angled up end to the plastic sides would be nicer. The pot bigger filters as images above look better than tiny ones (to me) but I'd probably get over the noise on the commute. I'm starting to see reason though. Maybe long term what I actually need is two Kat's one full retard and another just slightly improved on standard (both 750 base I refuse to mess up a perfectly good 1100 Kat when you can just create one from a 750 with additional engine mounts).

[MrMarko]

Very nice, can also use tl1000r or re-sprung nsr 250 USD's, share the same tokico 4 pots but youll need a drop knuckle triple as mentioned earlier.

[IronPawz]

Very nice, can also use tl1000r or re-sprung nsr 250 USD's, share the same tokico 4 pots but youll need a drop knuckle triple as mentioned earlier.

Sweet. Looking at it what I need is enough to understand a front end to buy and the implications to price and ride of said front end. On that what really are the differences. Some front ends 'bolt on' it seems with just bearing changes. Others need a lot of machining or adjusting the frame generally. I guess what I need to understand is what front ends can bolt on and if one option is say a few hundred and others are many more hundreds. Or concepts like a good builder could be expected to charge up to X in time and you'd need up to Y in additional parts.

If a GSXR750 1991-1993 front end just needs a few bearings and a day of effort but a tl1000r requires about two days of machining and then it is similar. That is really where I have no idea. Collecting a list of ends that would be suitable (and the tl1000r would seem to be great, in the family, comes from big bike, looks great, love the bike never hurts) that are not substantially more expensive than another option (say $500 either way on a build like this is no big deal or if it is actually available verses impossible then $1000 difference is completely acceptable).

So I am adding them to the list but what I would love to understand is if they are 'will work but three times the price of other options that will work' or will work and relatively the same as the idea options.

It is good though because I am just starting to understand really this is about the front end, the back is fairly understandable and I actually have an appropriate Bandit 1200 swing arm, understand what it needs (generally) and wheels for it are no hens teeth to find.

Another question generally is aside from ebay (which I've had no joy at all on my list of parts I'd just buy if I could find them) are there other good sources like maybe local wreckers that do older GSXR or say US/UK big breakers that are worth contacting and who will ship overseas.

[MrMarko]

For my GS650 i literally lopped the triple tree in half and had a certified welder stick a big steel bar up the middle of it and welded it in when i used the nsr250 front end to make it tall enough to fit through the katana frame. the front did sit around 32mm down from stock mostly due to the fact i didnt respring the nsr shocks. Still rode well but i always intended to respring them... I sold the motor out of it years ago and the bike ended up lapsing so if you want to buy the NSR front end with twin tokico 4 pots and front wheel with tyre im happy to take a decent offer on it, then you can look into a drop knuckle triple and whats involved in fitting it. It's been done alot on various bikes over at www.customfighters.com if you are looking for more info/ try asking there.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Could not agree more!


It's one thing if the space is utilized to fit a single shock but the plastic side covers just look odd with the empty space behind them.

Nah fuck that! Kat's with single shock rear ends look like poos. Nothing wrong with this look I say...


323817

[Katman]

Nah fuck that! Kat's with single shock rear ends look like poos. Nothing wrong with this look I say...

I see tears on our horizon.

[Crasherfromwayback]

I see tears on our horizon.

Lol. I wonder what it would look like, if you made up some side panel extentions and tried to get it to flow into the underside of the seat...

[sidecar bob]

Anyway, this katana build should be a hoot, I reckon he should turbo it, that's the bit of awesome it needs.:headbang:

[MrMarko]

Anyway, this katana build should be a hoot, I reckon he should turbo it, that's the bit of awesome it needs.:headbang:

The sc12 superchargers off the 4age aw11 toyota mr2's are a damn good giggle, be a nice linear pull on a bike... heck with it lets slap a turbo on there too a bit of Group B rally compound :2thumbsup

[Laava]

Anyway, this katana build should be a hoot, I reckon he should turbo it, that's the bit of awesome it needs.:headbang:

He could get the heads punched as well.

[sidecar bob]

He could get the heads punched as well.

That shouldn't be a difficult service to procure.:facepalm:

[Arronduke]

What can I say, a perfectly good thread, of which I was enjoying has been ruined.
Me, I like kat's and old Suzuki's and I hope the offenders will take a deep breath and get back on topic.

There is nothing better than building your own bike, what ever it is. Building a bike is an art form, something to enjoy and be proud of. At the end of the day most likely you will not recover the cost but it all about the hunt for parts, the enjoyment of receiving parcels in the post and seeing what you end up with. You will have something original.. and that's cool..My kat owes me lots, the wire rim alone were more than I paid for the bike.

This is a community of bike loving folk who enjoy the same thing and it should be treated as such, while we all don't get alone, and we don't, obviously. You have not meet my wife... she is a late 40's hot sweats, every one is an A hole kind of bitch. And if your a man look out. That's why I love my shed. (Ok, sex three times a week is the rule, other wise as long as I am feed and the kids don't talk to me we are sweet) ...but we don't always get along. She seems not to listen like she should. maybe its a hearing thing?

To finish up, I do not appreciate reading dribble like I have seen here.

back to topic...

I am thinking about a custom made yoke for the GSX100EZ instead of the Honda option, to gain ground clearance. $$ is the issue and my interest in the post about custom made yokes.
Got a reply about extended swingarms from metmachex.. So am I correct to say 2inch plus 4inch adjustment = 6in ???? but they don't do 6inch... Like my rim this thing will cost more than my bike. Need to hide some cash for about 18 months.! You can buy bolt on extension but they look crap!

my names Drew Sloman and I’m the new Innovation Engineer at Metmachex Engineering,
I received your email regarding the 6inch extended bandit swingarm 1997 – 2002 to fit the GS1100EZ 83 with bandit rims.

However for technical and safety reasons we can only extend it 2” longer with 4” adjustment, they are called drag slots and have 100mm of adjustment. It will cost £850GBP plus the cost of the carriage and we will require a £100 deposit if you wish to order one. Time needed will be 6-8 weeks.
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/extensionsb12a_zpstqxylvuf.jpg

This is what I want.. but with a little more class.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/20151227_150647_zpsantqbmqx.jpg

Many thanks

[hayd3n]

^^ that there looks like a hoot to ride :) ^^

[AllanB]

OK - I like your build it as you like statement, I agree.

Me - I'd run a mile from that American bolt on swingarm extension rubbish. I'd never trust it.

I'd rather engage a engineer/qualified welder to add the cm's I desire or save up for Spondon to build me one. http://www.spondonengineering.co.uk/

Mmmmmmmmmmmm Spondon swingarm

[Crasherfromwayback]

Many thanks

Any bike with CV carbs that runs bell mouths, will run like total shit.

[husaberg]

I am thinking about a custom made yoke for the GSX100EZ instead of the Honda option, to gain ground clearance. $$ is the issue and my interest in the post about custom made yokes.
Got a reply about extended swingarms from metmachex.. So am I correct to say 2inch plus 4inch adjustment = 6in ???? but they don't do 6inch... Like my rim this thing will cost more than my bike. Need to hide some cash for about 18 months.! You can buy bolt on extension but they look crap!

my names Drew Sloman and I’m the new Innovation Engineer at Metmachex Engineering,
I received your email regarding the 6inch extended bandit swingarm 1997 – 2002 to fit the GS1100EZ 83 with bandit rims.

However for technical and safety reasons we can only extend it 2” longer with 4” adjustment, they are called drag slots and have 100mm of adjustment. It will cost £850GBP plus the cost of the carriage and we will require a £100 deposit if you wish to order one. Time needed will be 6-8 weeks.
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/extensionsb12a_zpstqxylvuf.jpg

This is what I want.. but with a little more class.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/20151227_150647_zpsantqbmqx.jpg

Many thanks

Reminded me of Burgermans Gizza
Spondon did his swingarm
http://www.nitrous.info/nitrous-kits-designer.htm
For what they were offering the Metalmatch was a bit OTT price wise.
Someone like Sketchyracer could whip you up something similar for NZD
The GPR boys have made their own swingarms as well.

[sidecar bob]

Any bike with CV carbs that runs bell mouths, will run like total shit.

Everyone goes after the jets & needles to tune them for bell mouths, the key is firmer slide springs. I have achieved perfect results many times with cv carbs, the expierence came from my efforts with Su & strombergs on cars & I later applied the same practices to bike carbs.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Everyone goes after the jets & needles to tune them for bell mouths, the key is firmer slide springs. I have achieved perfect results many times with cv carbs, the expierence came from my efforts with Su & strombergs on cars & I later applied the same practices to bike carbs.

Yeah gotta stop the slides fluttering eh!

[sidecar bob]

Yeah gotta stop the slides fluttering eh!

The stronger springs hold the slides down further for any given RPM & create greater suction at the jet nozzle & richen the mixture across the entire range, the same as an airbox, It has absolutely nothing tio do with slide flutter.
If people think that's all the springs are there for then Im not surprised that nobody seems to be able to tune them.

[Crasherfromwayback]

The stronger springs hold the slides down further for any given RPM & create greater suction at the jet nozzle & richen the mixture across the entire range, the same as an airbox, It has absolutely nothing tio do with slide flutter.
If people think that's all the springs are there for then Im not surprised that nobody seems to be able to tune them.

That sounds fucking weird to me. But you've obviously got 'em to work like that. But I would've thought having heavier springs holding slides down, would've leaned the things out. Unless it helps them gain some suckyness.

[sidecar bob]

That sounds fucking weird to me. But you've obviously got 'em to work like that. But I would've thought having heavier springs holding slides down, would've leaned the things out. Unless it helps them gain some suckyness.

I learned on SU Carburettors, apparently it means Seldom Understood;) I have done away with air boxes, done blow through turbo's & generally grunted up bikes that are terribly lean from the factory to pass emission tests, the main jet usually needs a bit of growth & the needle a couple of clicks too, im not saying to leave them totally alone, but the spring is what gives you that awful hollow spot.

[Crasherfromwayback]

but the spring is what gives you that awful hollow spot.

Because it brings the slide up a bit slower?

[sidecar bob]

Because it brings the slide up a bit slower?
Its not a slow or fast thing with the slide, its a position relative to load/ RPM
In standard form in absence of the airbox, the slide rises too far, I know that brings the needle further out of the jet & you would think that would cause rich situation, but in the absence of sufficient suction, insufficient fuel is drawn up the jet tube. Increasing the spring tension, while holding the slide & consequently the needle further down for a given load/RPM increases the suction at the jet tube to create a choking effect which draws more fuel up the jet tube than if the slide was left to rise freely.
Its not tricking the carb into doing anything it wouldn't normally do, its just balancing the suction to the metering.
Pretty much the same reason why people throw away the excellent Rochester Quadrajet & put cheap nasty Holley carbs on V8's

[Grumph]

Its not a slow or fast thing with the slide, its a position relative to load/ RPM
In standard form in absence of the airbox, the slide rises too far, I know that brings the needle further out of the jet & you would think that would cause rich situation, but in the absence of sufficient suction, insufficient fuel is drawn up the jet tube. Increasing the spring tension, while holding the slide & consequently the needle further down for a given load/RPM increases the suction at the jet tube to create a choking effect which draws more fuel up the jet tube than if the slide was left to rise freely.
Its not tricking the carb into doing anything it wouldn't normally do, its just balancing the suction to the metering.
Pretty much the same reason why people throw away the excellent Rochester Quadrajet & put cheap nasty Holley carbs on V8's

Agree - because you can't change the slide cutaway on bike CV's you've got to match the rate of slide rise to the air requirements of the motor.
My experience has generally been that as i've had no alternative springs I've had to tailor the size of the vacuum hole in the slide to get the response i want.
Are you working from a collection of SU springs ?

[husaberg]

The stronger springs hold the slides down further for any given RPM & create greater suction at the jet nozzle & richen the mixture across the entire range, the same as an airbox, It has absolutely nothing tio do with slide flutter.
If people think that's all the springs are there for then Im not surprised that nobody seems to be able to tune them.

You could also drill the air hole for the slide as Dyno jet do, along with the springs
Whoops Greg bet me too it.

[jellywrestler]

You could also drill the air hole for the slide as Dyno jet do, along with the springs
Whoops Greg bet me too it.

my bimota SB3 has cv's and pods, prior to that it was a steve roberts airbox which the guy didn't like and threw away.
when the bike came to nz it had thirstier carbs on it, it just so happened that suzuki new zealand had about 23 sets of brand new gsx1100 carbs sitting on their shelf, so a set was purloined and fitted, odd that there were 23 gsx1100 black piper wire wheelers with slide carbs 'arrived' in the country at about the same time.....

[husaberg]

my bimota SB3 has cv's and pods, prior to that it was a steve roberts airbox which the guy didn't like and threw away.
when the bike came to nz it had thirstier carbs on it, it just so happened that suzuki new zealand had about 23 sets of brand new gsx1100 carbs sitting on their shelf, so a set was purloined and fitted, odd that there were 23 gsx1100 black piper wire wheelers with slide carbs 'arrived' in the country at about the same time.....

yeah, a huge co-incidence that.
SB3 would be the days of kit only Bims. so anything goes.

[Arronduke]

Its not a slow or fast thing with the slide, its a position relative to load/ RPM
In standard form in absence of the airbox, the slide rises too far, I know that brings the needle further out of the jet & you would think that would cause rich situation, but in the absence of sufficient suction, insufficient fuel is drawn up the jet tube. Increasing the spring tension, while holding the slide & consequently the needle further down for a given load/RPM increases the suction at the jet tube to create a choking effect which draws more fuel up the jet tube than if the slide was left to rise freely.
Its not tricking the carb into doing anything it wouldn't normally do, its just balancing the suction to the metering.
Pretty much the same reason why people throw away the excellent Rochester Quadrajet & put cheap nasty Holley carbs on V8's

wow what great info. never thought of it that way. cheers

[Arronduke]

my bimota SB3 has cv's and pods, prior to that it was a steve roberts airbox which the guy didn't like and threw away.
when the bike came to nz it had thirstier carbs on it, it just so happened that suzuki new zealand had about 23 sets of brand new gsx1100 carbs sitting on their shelf, so a set was purloined and fitted, odd that there were 23 gsx1100 black piper wire wheelers with slide carbs 'arrived' in the country at about the same time.....

SB3 - you lucky bastard, I would love to own one. A true classic!
How do you find it today after all these years, the old GS1000 motor?

[sidecar bob]

Agree - because you can't change the slide cutaway on bike CV's you've got to match the rate of slide rise to the air requirements of the motor.
My experience has generally been that as i've had no alternative springs I've had to tailor the size of the vacuum hole in the slide to get the response i want.
Are you working from a collection of SU springs ?

Umm. . . . no, what I do is make spacers out of plastic tubing, that I put between the top cover & the spring, that I adjust the length of until the mid range is correct. Then I get a piece of cardboard & put a pen line on it on one end & another pen Line at the other end that is equal to the free length of the spring, plus the length of the plastic tubing, plus a tiny bit (very technical measurements at this point lol) to allow for the dead area that the tubing took up that the spring will later occupy. I then hold the spring by the ends & stretch it. You have to be extremely careful at this point because while it can easily be stretched, it can never be shrunk, so I carefully work the length up, until it matches the length marked on the piece of cardboard, usually good results are achieved first time. Then turn to the needle for fine mid range tuning (often raising it by one or two positions) & the main jet for top end,usually by having two sets of main jets & drilling one larger than the previous until I go too far, & then returning to the previous size (usually works out to be up by 10 to 15)
If it hadn't worked for me countless times over 25 years plus, I don't think I would have had the ball bag to post it up in such company.

[IronPawz]

For my GS650 i literally lopped the triple tree in half and had a certified welder stick a big steel bar up the middle of it and welded it in when i used the nsr250 front end to make it tall enough to fit through the katana frame. the front did sit around 32mm down from stock mostly due to the fact i didnt respring the nsr shocks. Still rode well but i always intended to respring them... I sold the motor out of it years ago and the bike ended up lapsing so if you want to buy the NSR front end with twin tokico 4 pots and front wheel with tyre im happy to take a decent offer on it, then you can look into a drop knuckle triple and whats involved in fitting it. It's been done alot on various bikes over at www.customfighters.com if you are looking for more info/ try asking there.

So you still have the bike minus the motor? Want to sell that together maybe.. Just the front end I'd be keen but I'd want to have a proper chat just to understand it. I'll take a look at that link and perhaps get a chat going there. Also I decided I might as well get the tap measure out and start trying to understand what can go but first I'll hunt up someone who can run me through the basics which I am sure I can do through my circle there are some friends of friends I am sure that can tell me what to measure etc.

Right now that front end is still my ability to understand in terms of expense to fit to what I have verses say a good old GSXR750 1991-1993 which are known to be low stress and it might be I spend time calling the bigger breakers around the planet looking for that (for example).

Stocked to see a real option mind just need to get my learn on. If I can get to that point I'd be totally up for it.

[Grumph]

Umm. . . . no, what I do is make spacers out of plastic tubing, that I put between the top cover & the spring, that I adjust the length of until the mid range is correct. Then I get a piece of cardboard & put a pen line on it on one end & another pen Line at the other end that is equal to the free length of the spring, plus the length of the plastic tubing, plus a tiny bit (very technical measurements at this point lol) to allow for the dead area that the tubing took up that the spring will later occupy. I then hold the spring by the ends & stretch it. You have to be extremely careful at this point because while it can easily be stretched, it can never be shrunk, so I carefully work the length up, until it matches the length marked on the piece of cardboard, usually good results are achieved first time. Then turn to the needle for fine mid range tuning (often raising it by one or two positions) & the main jet for top end,usually by having two sets of main jets & drilling one larger than the previous until I go too far, & then returning to the previous size (usually works out to be up by 10 to 15)
If it hadn't worked for me countless times over 25 years plus, I don't think I would have had the ball bag to post it up in such company.

If it works, it works. Two ways of doing the same thing. As I see it you aren't changing the spring rate, just the force needed to overcome it by dialling in more preload.
Your way gives the motor more fuel at a point where slide movement has stalled - letting it continue to rise in the revs.
My way lets the slide get past it's stall point - and yes, I've often had to lift the needles too - and the drill one/keep one jet system is well proven for me.

There's some history with drilling the slides. I heard a story about Schwantz and the GSXR750J at Daytona. CV carbs of course...The guys were drilling slides to get better response and Kev was saying more, more...so they kept drilling. I'm told that at a vacuum hole size around 6mm they discovered that the vacuum at full noise wasn't enough to keep the slides up around the bankings...He had to put up with a less than optimum respone just to get full throttle.
Still won though. Grant Ramage ran a 750J here and Suzuki NZ passed the info on.

[IronPawz]

He could get the heads punched as well.

Not sure what that means but really I'm just into the suspension at the moment with no real thoughts to the motor. No turbo or charger is going to suite my 750km's per week commute. Later on I might well look at the motor but beyond carbies, decent pipes or possibly putting in something else it is so early I'll just ride it standard and see how it goes. To be fair fuel economy is still of interest (I fill my blade every second day as it is).

This will be no drag bike but that will not stop me taking it to the drags!

[IronPawz]

What can I say, a perfectly good thread, of which I was enjoying has been ruined.
Me, I like kat's and old Suzuki's and I hope the offenders will take a deep breath and get back on topic.

There is nothing better than building your own bike, what ever it is. Building a bike is an art form, something to enjoy and be proud of. At the end of the day most likely you will not recover the cost but it all about the hunt for parts, the enjoyment of receiving parcels in the post and seeing what you end up with. You will have something original.. and that's cool..My kat owes me lots, the wire rim alone were more than I paid for the bike.

Many thanks

The photo looking at the back looks great. What extend the swing arm? I thought that was more a drag thing or it is for ride or tires etc. Things like wire rims I might well go there over time. But I will start with the functional ride and break with a view to some looks (like USD if I can). I don't even plan to paint it or fix the minor dent in the tank before doing the suspension and breaks.

Like the comments on the joy of bike building. I can see to you build for yourself anything new will not be liked by all and there is no reason to expect it should be. I've seen cafe racer Katana's (just horrible, I love kat's and cafe racers but together I'm horrified by a short seat on a Kat). Still I'm all in for other people to do there thing.

[Crasherfromwayback]

I then hold the spring by the ends & stretch it.. Then turn to the needle for fine mid range tuning (often raising it by one or two positions) & the main jet for top end,usually by having two sets of main jets & drilling one larger than the previous until I go too far, & then returning to the previous size (usually works out to be up by 10 to 15)
y.

So you're not actually fitting heavier springs at all, and you're also fattening up the mid range and top end. And without an airbox, the slides don't flutter at all? I've got a feeling you increasing the preload on the initial opening of the slides is helping fight the flutter you say doesn't exist.

[sidecar bob]

So you're not actually fitting heavier springs at all, and you're also fattening up the mid range and top end. And without an airbox, the slides don't flutter at all? I've got a feeling you increasing the preload on the initial opening of the slides is helping fight the flutter you say doesn't exist.
I'm no expert, but increasing the preload makes the slide harder to lift, with desirable results.
Pull the air box off a cv carb bike, fire it up & whack the throttle open & see if you can see any flutter. Fucked if I know, but what I'm doing works for me. The short of it is that I can make cv carbs work with pods or no filters whatsoever, because I understand how the carbs operate.
This flutter thing is brand new to me & sounds like somebody's excuse for not knowing how things really work. Not yours nesacarily.

[sidecar bob]

Not sure what that means but really I'm just into the suspension at the moment with no real thoughts to the motor. No turbo or charger is going to suite my 750km's per week commute. Later on I might well look at the motor but beyond carbies, decent pipes or possibly putting in something else it is so early I'll just ride it standard and see how it goes. To be fair fuel economy is still of interest (I fill my blade every second day as it is).

This will be no drag bike but that will not stop me taking it to the drags!

For what it's worth, your thread kind of turned to shit in your absence when a couple of blokes had a bit of a disagreement. Fortunately a mod pulled out a few offensive posts, which were of absolutely no value whatsoever.

[Laava]

For what it's worth, your thread kind of turned to shit in your absence when a couple of blokes had a bit of a disagreement. Fortunately a mod pulled out a few offensive posts, which were of absolutely no value whatsoever.

It was actually highly amusing yet tragic at the same time! Inappropes for this thread tho.

[IronPawz]

my bimota SB3 has cv's and pods, prior to that it was a steve roberts airbox which the guy didn't like and threw away.
when the bike came to nz it had thirstier carbs on it, it just so happened that suzuki new zealand had about 23 sets of brand new gsx1100 carbs sitting on their shelf, so a set was purloined and fitted, odd that there were 23 gsx1100 black piper wire wheelers with slide carbs 'arrived' in the country at about the same time.....

I just looked up the bimota SB3 what an absolutely cool looking machine. Pretty decent stats for the day (bit lighter than the Kat somewhat less pony but all the style you could hope for). Good example of a bike you could not mess with the look of in any good way. Give me the same great feeling looking at a ducati paso does (no idea what they ride like but just love looking at them).

Coolies.

[husaberg]

I just looked up the bimota SB3 what an absolutely cool looking machine. Pretty decent stats for the day (bit lighter than the Kat somewhat less pony but all the style you could hope for). Good example of a bike you could not mess with the look of in any good way. Give me the same great feeling looking at a ducati paso does (no idea what they ride like but just love looking at them).

Coolies.

Paso that's just wrong.... on so many levels:nono:
If you had said F2 Ducati
323856

[IronPawz]

For what it's worth, your thread kind of turned to shit in your absence when a couple of blokes had a bit of a disagreement. Fortunately a mod pulled out a few offensive posts, which were of absolutely no value whatsoever.

Right that explains things. We should have a lock in at the YMCA for them and then someone with a great mullet could go "I mean common" and everyone would be sweet again. If you do not get this reference then don't worry one day you will be old enough to make references no one else gets also and trust me it will be personally funny if nothing else.

Mean time I've started down the long great road to learning more about a custom build. I've felt overwhelmed (good to get that out of the way) encouraged (so many great builds and good info) and have settled in to learn mode.

I feel it is time to inject some LOVE for the Suzuki Katana 1100sz back into this link (sorry Katman if it's not your type of Kat and all power to you my friend your dedication to the Kat is undeniable and totally respected).

I love this bike!!
http://thebikeshed.cc/2015/02/16/icon-1000s-katana-exclusive-no-leaks-til-152/ I would personally it a reach around (dual internals even)
or at least the girl in this (fantastic mix of new old school) video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSXNRZou7Ws (godz the love).

I would walk into the shop RIGHT NOW and trade my fireblade in on this
https://www.bemoto.uk/blog/suzuki-katana-concept-2016 (even though it is not as nice as a good original with a modern rebuild, can shocks actually sit at that angle? I don't care I would buy it and ride it till my ass caved in, then I stand up and ride it some more).

About to read through this one and then go looking for more build threads. I will get the Kat built, then I think I'd probably want an unmolested original (even a 750 and maybe even the popup headlight jobbie though I would probably have to mod one of those).

I love the icon so much I have to list another link for it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzcaRkPTxno

And remember angry posters of all shapes and sizes if you have something hateful to say consider creating your own website, hosting it on your own machine, and not connecting it to the internet and saying it there.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Pull the air box off a cv carb bike, fire it up & whack the throttle open & see if you can see any flutter. Fucked if I know, but what I'm doing works for me. The short of it is that I can make cv carbs work with pods or no filters whatsoever, because I understand how the carbs operate.
This flutter thing is brand new to me & sounds like somebody's excuse for not knowing how things really work. Not yours nesacarily.

I have. On a dyno that is able to place a load on the rear wheel, with a huge fan that replicates head wind. It's more of a prob when applying light throttle openings rather than when you wack it wide open. I fully dig that what you're doing works, and I like your work. But flutter is an issue.

[IronPawz]

Paso that's just wrong.... on so many levels:nono:
If you had said F2 Ducati
323856

Yup that is cool. I had a ductai which was to embarrassing to mention (so ugly) being my only personal experience. I rode fine (in my limited experience at the time). My conclusions was 1) never ever commute on a ducati for any serious distance 2) never buy an ugly bike with a great write up 3) never ever use Motormart Wellington for anything other than clothes and perhaps chain lube 4) sitting up straight might seem comfortable but you get use to being forward and it is just such a better riding position 5) no bike will ever look as good to me personally as a Suzuki Katana 1100 (or the same type 750 but that will be disappointing in terms of pull).

So I've nothing worth listening to, to say about Ducati (actually it is a long list but Ducati is on it towards the top).

[husaberg]

Yup that is cool. I had a ductai which was to embarrassing to mention (so ugly) being my only personal experience. I rode fine (in my limited experience at the time). My conclusions was 1) never ever commute on a ducati for any serious distance 2) never buy an ugly bike with a great write up 3) never ever use Motormart Wellington for anything other than clothes and perhaps chain lube 4) sitting up straight might seem comfortable but you get use to being forward and it is just such a better riding position 5) no bike will ever look as good to me personally as a Suzuki Katana 1100 (or the same type 750 but that will be disappointing in terms of pull).

So I've nothing worth listening to, to say about Ducati (actually it is a long list but Ducati is on it towards the top).

If you want reliability and cheap to run, but looks like a Paso just buy an Honda Aero CBR400-1000 and paint it red.
http://bike-exchange.com/images/Honda%20CBR400%20AERO.jpg
http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/TY/viaEmail/1988_Ducati_Paso_750_resize.jpg

[IronPawz]

If you want reliability and cheap to run, but looks like a Paso just buy an Honda Aero CBR400-1000 and paint it red.


Godz they are close. Yeah the Paso still looks outrageous in an engaging way (to my eye). I think the honda looks better. Bet the Paso would be parked up inside a year having cost twice the price to maintain and the honda would just run on and on with no dramas.

[sidecar bob]

I have. On a dyno that is able to place a load on the rear wheel, with a huge fan that replicates head wind. It's more of a prob when applying light throttle openings rather than when you wack it wide open. I fully dig that what you're doing works, and I like your work. But flutter is an issue.

I've been pondering the flutter thing, & I'm picking it's caused by intake pulses as each cylinder is on the intake stroke, or probably more accurately, the slide dropping during the period of still air in the port on everything except the intake stroke.
The slide is the Venturi effectively, so the smaller the Venturi, the higher the airspeed over the jet tube, so, technically, what I'm probably achieving, is higher airspeed across the jet, rather than greater suction. Or possibly both.
It has never occurred to me to drill the holes out in the bottom of the slides, as all they are is signal ports to the top of the diaphragm, it's not like they have a constant flow of air passing through them, just the displacement of the air moved above the diaphragm. Drilling them out would only have the effect of changing their orientation a bit, although I'm sure dynojet do it for a reason.
I also ponder how adding weight to the slide would work. It would be a constant & have the same effect theoretically. Must try it next time.

[MrMarko]

I would walk into the shop RIGHT NOW and trade my fireblade in on this
https://www.bemoto.uk/blog/suzuki-katana-concept-2016

Mother of god....

Screw it i'm going to build it.

[onearmedbandit]

Pretty much the same reason why people throw away the excellent Rochester Quadrajet & put cheap nasty Holley carbs on V8's

Don't remind me, I had a very nice setup on a 308 that I ruined by putting a Holley carb and mild-rise manifold on. Before I realised the error of my ways I had sold the std manifold and Rochester. Never got it performing as well as it did with the std setup...

[pete376403]

I've been pondering the flutter thing, & I'm picking it's caused by intake pulses as each cylinder is on the intake stroke, or probably more accurately, the slide dropping during the period of still air in the port on everything except the intake stroke.
The slide is the Venturi effectively, so the smaller the Venturi, the higher the airspeed over the jet tube, so, technically, what I'm probably achieving, is higher airspeed across the jet, rather than greater suction. Or possibly both.
It has never occurred to me to drill the holes out in the bottom of the slides, as all they are is signal ports to the top of the diaphragm, it's not like they have a constant flow of air passing through them, just the displacement of the air moved above the diaphragm. Drilling them out would only have the effect of changing their orientation a bit, although I'm sure dynojet do it for a reason.
I also ponder how adding weight to the slide would work. It would be a constant & have the same effect theoretically. Must try it next time.

Do any of the CV carbs used on bikes have an oil damper such as SU's and Strombergs have? Would it help in this case?

[98tls]

I just looked up the bimota SB3 what an absolutely cool looking machine. Pretty decent stats for the day (bit lighter than the Kat somewhat less pony but all the style you could hope for). Good example of a bike you could not mess with the look of in any good way. Give me the same great feeling looking at a ducati paso does (no idea what they ride like but just love looking at them).

Coolies.

:nono: you dont want a Paso mate :nono: I had an 89 750 Sport which was slightly better but still...no.

[Kickaha]

:nono: you dont want a Paso mate :nono: I had an 89 750 Sport which was slightly better but still...no.

907IE was apparently much better

[Crasherfromwayback]

907IE was apparently much better

Fuck yeah. Still fucking ugly though.

[sidecar bob]

Do any of the CV carbs used on bikes have an oil damper such as SU's and Strombergs have? Would it help in this case?

No they don't, & yes it would help, think of the damper as the accelerator pump, once they run out of oil, cars with SU's would flat spot on acceleration.

[IronPawz]

:nono: you dont want a Paso mate :nono: I had an 89 750 Sport which was slightly better but still...no.

Actually I don't really want any Ducati the last one was just one long pain in the butt and I'd sooner not ride than have the deal with Motormart again. Which in my experience was often the same thing.

[pete376403]

No they don't, & yes it would help, think of the damper as the accelerator pump, once they run out of oil, cars with SU's would flat spot on acceleration.
I was aware that they function as an accelerator "pump" (slowing the slide lift so vacuum would raw more fuel up the jet) but wondering if it would dampen small slide movements.
(Envisioning quad 1.5" Stromberg CDs on the Kat? Nasty, god knows the single one on Hillman Hunters and Avengers was hard enough to get tuned (the later ones without the adjustable jet underneath)

[IronPawz]

I was aware that they function as an accelerator "pump" (slowing the slide lift so vacuum would raw more fuel up the jet) but wondering if it would dampen small slide movements.
(Envisioning quad 1.5" Stromberg CDs on the Kat? Nasty, god knows the single one on Hillman Hunters and Avengers was hard enough to get tuned (the later ones without the adjustable jet underneath)

Now there is a do up for the Katana. 4 Hilman hunter carbies. I think they where the same on my old 2000cc Triumph car (POS that is was).
Stromberg even the name still gives me shivers (owned a few of Mini's also).

[IronPawz]

Mother of god....

Screw it i'm going to build it.

Now that would be something. It is kind of nasty in the front but I would learn to live with it.

[IronPawz]

Webike in Japan has an amazing range of new parts for the Kat some of which are stunning

Full tree.
http://japan.webike.net/products/21446852.html

Carbon bits
http://japan.webike.net/products/1484085.html

Tank
http://japan.webike.net/products/21788532.html

Seat (I like the seat pity they don't one with the right colours)
http://japan.webike.net/products/1227698.html

Full retard wheels and breaks
http://japan.webike.net/products/21981600.html

So lots of parts are pretty insane prices but it is really sweet to see they still exist for sale. Sure they are do up parts so not for the purist but the list of them is so impressive. A man can dream...

[IronPawz]

OMG there is a real live GSXR750 1992 on trademe here http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/listing.aspx?id=1145391226 I should just buy this bike right now given this guy uses those front ends https://katmankatana.wordpress.com/tag/forks/

Auction only has two days left. It is in Auckland which means $400 to get it here. Then I have to break a perfectly good GSXR750 begging to be a track bike (I would love this as a track bike). Mmmm what to do that is a lot of coin when I just want the front end and wheels and don't really want to store and sell the rest. Shit.

So the sensible thing to do really is this. Buy it RIGHT NOW then turn it into a track bike for now.

Therefore I stop risking my Blade and properly learn to get a knee down on something I can throw if I stuff it up and not cry myself to sleep for ages while taking the --shudder-- train to work. I can track it over this summer, gather my other parts (I have the swing arm this will give me tires and front end) then over winter I can pull it down. Mean time I can just ride the Kat at times as it is.

Ohhh shit my wife even just said ok.

Shit it is in bloody Kerikeri Northland. I'll see if biketranz can actually pick it up. Auction ends in a few days. Ahh and it has sat around for four years so probably the fork seals are shot and the carbs are full of snot costing more than makes sense to use it on the track (I'm just a group 4 fun time type I don't race or know what I am doing).

Really I should just do it. But I will wait till tomorrow, talk to biketranz (if they talk on sundays) talk to some friends about a 4 year sitting bikes ability to go track without a lot of costs before breaking it. Dam.. probably no one looking at this thread anymore.

I suppose I have to sort the forks out either way. But carbies? 4 years? They say it runs. Anyone want to buy the motor and frame etc? I want the breaks, front end and wheels and probably nothing else. Man they just never come up and just today I also emailed all the bike wreckers so probably they will all reply on Monday with parts if I buy this thing. Best I have a few beers and get click happy.

[sidecar bob]

Yes, buy it now, but keep it together & ride it for at least three months before you pull it apart. By that time another set of forks will turn up for the katana & you will have the gsxr, plus the forks & that will be a great result.
Or you could do my trick & buy your wife a classic bike as a wedding anniversary present most years & ride it on her behalf. That way you never have to worry what to get for a present, & as long as you are married there is at least one excuse per year to buy another bike.

[IronPawz]

Yes, buy it now, but keep it together & ride it for at least three months before you pull it apart. By that time another set of forks will turn up for the katana & you will have the gsxr, plus the forks & that will be a great result.
Or you could do my trick & buy your wife a classic bike as a wedding anniversary present most years & ride it on her behalf. That way you never have to worry what to get for a present, & as long as you are married there is at least one excuse per year to buy another bike.

Great advice. I brought it and will take that advice and ride it this season if it does the job and I don't kill it trying to extend my range now I can without killing my daily. Then I went further.. much further and hopefully (fingers crossed) next week I will have a real announcement that (I think) will cause some interest and a few tears (or at least interesting comments).

[jasonu]

I learned on SU Carburettors, apparently it means Seldom Understood;) .

It stands for Skinner Union.
Originally was SSU = Skinner Sausage Union. Apparently they started out making sausage making equipment.
True story, I saw it on Wheeler dealers.

[sidecar bob]

It stands for Skinner Union.
Originally was SSU = Skinner Sausage Union. Apparently they started out making sausage making equipment.
True story, I saw it on Wheeler dealers.

Yeah, I did actually know that, but seldom understood fits the bill better.

[jellywrestler]

next week I will have a real announcement that (I think) will cause some interest and a few tears (or at least interesting comments).

fuck, this is better than shortland street for nail biting excitement

[jasonu]

Great advice. I brought it and will take that advice and ride it this season if it does the job and I don't kill it trying to extend my range now I can without killing my daily. Then I went further.. much further and hopefully (fingers crossed) next week I will have a real announcement that (I think) will cause some interest and a few tears (or at least interesting comments).

Sex change???
http://time.com/time-person-of-the-year-2015-runner-up-caitlyn-jenner/

[IronPawz]

fuck, this is better than shortland street for nail biting excitement

Hehe yeah I know that is lame [-edit- of me -edit-] but I'm VERY bloody excited. Enough to be lame even. Trust me anyone interested in the content of this thread will have something to say when.... when... oh shit my evil twin just developed insomnia before waking up from a comma that he dreamed.

Though it could be considered a sex change to a real man given what one of me friends keeps inferring because I ride a Honda (I've seen some of his taste in bikes so I am not insulted).

Lets just say opinions will be divided but I'll be one happy chappy but given the deal is not done you will just have to wait for the next EXCITING EPISODE of a man who's gone to the Kats!!

[IronPawz]

Here is the mystery bike. Just so happened the man selling the GSXR I brought had this and was willing to part with it. Currently it is in primer and steal and needs a paint. It rides well and having ridden it back to back with my Fireblade I now see why people criticise the blade as having no personality. I'll add more on this bike as I get going but it is a dream come true for me!

There is an online document of the build if anyone is interested. The back looks better in the flesh than in these images.

I hired a van from Wellington and drove it to Kerkeri and back to get this. Arrived at the cold Kiwi about 1:30am Saturday morning (wandered about for a while around 8:30am in a bright red bennie). I noted a bike arrive at 1:30am (guy in open face helmet and goggles) and another bike arrived around 2:30am!

I'll get some new pics up of the Kat and perhaps start a thread on it but it will take time to get it all sorted. It might make the first Mainfield track day!

Good times!

[Big Dog]

Tidy. Congrats.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

[IronPawz]

Tidy. Congrats.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

Thanks is that an XX Blackbird in your tag? Always wanted to try one out. Read some great reviews and they look fantastic. There was one regularly in Welly I use to go out of my way to walk past.

[sidecar bob]

That's very sweet. Do you suppose you could find an original tailpiece & seat for it?

[Big Dog]

Thanks is that an XX Blackbird in your tag? Always wanted to try one out. Read some great reviews and they look fantastic. There was one regularly in Welly I use to go out of my way to walk past.
It was my Hayabusa. I wouldn't mind a Blackbird but if I could have another hypertourer, easily a top 5, my first choice would be another Hayabusa.

To be fair, before I chose I'd have to test ride a blackbird, zx14, zx14 concourse, FJR1300 and a st1300.
Trouble is I'd end up owning more than one or yearning for whatever in didn't buy.



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[IronPawz]

It was my Hayabusa. I wouldn't mind a Blackbird but if I could have another hypertourer, easily a top 5, my first choice would be another Hayabusa.

To be fair, before I chose I'd have to test ride a blackbird, zx14, zx14 concourse, FJR1300 and a st1300.
Trouble is I'd end up owning more than one or yearning for whatever in didn't buy.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

Ahh the mighty busa truly one of the greats. I've never ridden one but I'd love to. I've followed a few into Wellington and been impressed with how nimble they look on the move. There is a purple one I've seen a few times just carving it up (I was pushing hard on the blade to stay with him, good times). There is also a black one I see at times before I generally just let it go (mad man rolling in style I only filter so hard).

Those are all big powerful machines (nice in all cases). Especially the zx14 those look so insane. Still I just never got over the Kat loving and am yet to see if I can really live with one 2 hours a day (which I am sure I can). The new one seems more polite in position than the original (but I will be able to compare them tomorrow).

There is a blackbird at TSS Red Barron Wellington which I might well ride (and report on) because I just so love the look of it! I've never really done the big size crazy power bike so might be something that suites me and I don't even know it..

[Big Dog]

Lol. My fighting weight would be 120kgs. 150 is more likely.
Big functional bikes come before petite form based bikes any day.
Nimble is cool but comfort is king.
The one draw back of the Hayabusa is that there are a few corners where you will find you have the back wheel on or near the outside fog line while your front is on or over the apex.

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[Big Dog]

Half the fun of these bikes is developing the skills to be graceful on a hammer.

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[IronPawz]

Half the fun of these bikes is developing the skills to be graceful on a hammer.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

Yeah that resonates. A good man I know heading away from IT to work full time training people to ride has a sizable beast and while I never asked him directly I got the distinct impression there is a category of bike lovers who find the mastery of the heavy, comfort based but still powerful machines their main joy on two wheels. Done well it really does look artful. I just love the Kat's for being such a great looking original super sport but at my level of commute I want it to handle more and break better. Part of what I get kicks from is bending my being around a bike not suited to commuting. I don't come from a place of great experience in a variety of bikes so there are things to explore. I've developed a love of pure sports bikes and the body has just had to get use to it. I do still really like my time on the F650 BMW mind that was a really bloody great bike (in my estimation). Keen to try an XX and a busa just to experiance that big awesome and see if I can handle it.

[IronPawz]

Half the fun of these bikes is developing the skills to be graceful on a hammer.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC



I should really add that that done up Kat has a much more polite (so it seems yet to fully test) seating position than my Blade or original Kat and that doesn't upset me AT ALL. I'm not getting younger and some comfort is making more sense as I continue to not do so.

[jellywrestler]

Yeah that resonates. A good man I know heading away from IT to work full time training people to ride has a sizable beast and while I never asked him directly I got the distinct impression there is a category of bike lovers who find the mastery of the heavy, comfort based but still powerful machines their main joy on two wheels. Done well it really does look artful. I just love the Kat's for being such a great looking original super sport but at my level of commute I want it to handle more and break better. Part of what I get kicks from is bending my being around a bike not suited to commuting. I don't come from a place of great experience in a variety of bikes so there are things to explore. I've developed a love of pure sports bikes and the body has just had to get use to it. I do still really like my time on the F650 BMW mind that was a really bloody great bike (in my estimation). Keen to try an XX and a busa just to experiance that big awesome and see if I can handle it.

lots of words, would be hard to beat you in scrabble....

[IronPawz]

For the first time since 1986 the bike is fully certified and all legal. Lots of thanks to Bruce Lewis and Wellington Motor Cycle Inspection Services. Good team in that ever more popular business.

I've given it a few hundred KM's and it is good. No problems in the commute. Needs some softening up as the suspension is still in race setting makes it unsettled over bumps and a bit harsh in areas.

Seating position is pretty good but it needs resets to allow experimenting with foot peg location. Seating is more comfortable than standard.

Tank is in primer black. So the bike is mostly black with orange wheels. Getting Battalax T21's to replace the old (been on bike probably 10 years) and worn tires.

Compared to the Fireblade I ride it is still surprisingly good. Power in low gears is similar but the rev range is shorter on the GSX1135. I need new tires and softer suspension to test it more (next week). It is a bit like riding an overly lowered car, great on track but not on uneven roads.

I'm just totally into now and keen to get on refining, improving and riding. Keen to get it to a MotoTT or similar track day for a run.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Lots of thanks to Bruce Lewis at Motor Cycle Inspection Services. .

He's a good chap. I sent him pics of my GSXR1100 shock setup for your job. Glad to hear you've got it sorted at last.

[IronPawz]

He's a good chap. I sent him pics of my GSXR1100 shock setup for your job. Glad to hear you've got it sorted at last.

Yup I enjoy working with Bruce and his team. Every time I go there, more bikes. There was a nice track bike in there recently.

Nice to see the Frankenzuki getting some specs from your GSXR. Quite enjoy the history of the bike.

[IronPawz]

Frame : 1983 Katana GSX1100SZ
Front end : 1992 GSXR1100
Swing Arm : 2000? After market AJS Internal suspension
Rear shock : 2000? AJS Kit (I am not sure but I am sure I'd like to improve on it)
Breaks front : 1992 GSXR1100 3 pot on slotted but undrilled disks
Breaks rear : 1992 GSXR1100 single
Engine : 1984 GSX1100EFE also known as a GSX1135
Exhaust : 4 into one with cut down noisy short muffler
Wheels : 1992? GSXR1100

Things I'd like to do short term

Convert chain to lighter narrower 520
Change exhaust to something quieter
Get new tires (in shop for these a the moment)
Setup suspension with road settings and track settings
Work out best tire pressures

Medium term (by summer)

Paint it. Still not sure on colours still, maybe traditional, maybe gun metal, maybe black, maybe combination. I prefer anonymous given all the commuting. Not bright showroom combinations.

Start some lightening. Exhaust and chain are good starting points. Battery is good for a few KG. Wheels maybe.

Rear sets so I can move the footing about and see what suites best.

Breaks. At least better disks and pads (likely medium term solution). Cylinder upgrade? Ideally I'd look for lighter and better options.

Bling. Stickers, look at leavers, grips etc.


Long Term

All sorts of things, never ending.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Yup I enjoy working with Bruce and his team. Every time I go there, more bikes. There was a nice track bike in there recently.

Nice to see the Frankenzuki getting some specs from your GSXR. Quite enjoy the history of the bike.

I worked with him at WMCC for twenty years. He knows his stuff. Was happy to help out, as I have a Katana as well. Saw yours in his shop.

[IronPawz]

I worked with him at WMCC for twenty years. He knows his stuff. Was happy to help out, as I have a Katana as well. Saw yours in his shop.

Right I've talked to you in WMC and had my 'standard' 7/11 Katana in WMC plenty of times back then. Unless someone else there also had a few Kat's in the shed.

I like that Bruce will have these massive chopper projects next to outright sports bikes. Be good when he gets low volume certification.

Now I have a 1981 GSX750SZ fitted with a GSX1100E engine (jets changed to Katana spec) 520 chain conversion, new clutch that has to go. Also a 1992 GSXR750 (no headlight or indicators) which goes OK and was going to be a track bike and/or front end donor to the 7/11 that has to go. So expect them on trade me at some point.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Right I've talked to you in WMC and had my 'standard' 7/11 Katana in WMC plenty of times back then. Unless someone else there also had a few Kat's in the shed.

.

Nah. That'll be Mike Strand. He has many Pop Up Headlight Kats. Mike was in spares, I was in sales. Office on the cnr by the counter. I only brought my Katana after I'd left there.

[IronPawz]

Hope the images show up.

[StoneY]

Great read man. Long way from that damn ugly red thing you used to have anyway ;)

What a journey!

[IronPawz]

Great read man. Long way from that damn ugly red thing you used to have anyway ;)

What a journey!

Nnnnoooooo for the record I believe the early Ducati Multistrada to be the most ugly and unreliable bike I've ever owned, gives me Motormart flash backs. There are no true upright sports bikes, learn to bend.

Good to see you here StoneY.

[IronPawz]

Nah. That'll be Mike Strand. He has many Pop Up Headlight Kats. Mike was in spares, I was in sales. Office on the cnr by the counter. I only brought my Katana after I'd left there.

Right. So you are pre-popup also then huh. Nice. If they had made an 1100cc popup I'd be in. I'd not have the heard to mess up a standard Katana but mine came pre-messed so they are open to more.

I've got to sell my 7/11 and the 92 GSXR750. I might put them up on a tread here see what people think they are worth. I remember when I brought the 7/11 the guy discussed it on kiwibiker and someone said something like "I'll give you a dozen and packet of chips, no kettle fry."

[Crasherfromwayback]

I'd not have the heard to mess up a standard Katana but mine came pre-messed so they are open to more.



Mines one I got in from California, so a GSX1000. It's also got some quite cool (to me anyhow) period correct hot rod parts on it, so it's not one I'm too worried about trying to make/keep original. Need to get a few other bike projects out of the way before I can afford to start the build.

[IronPawz]

Mines one I got in from California, so a GSX1000. It's also got some quite cool (to me anyhow) period correct hot rod parts on it, so it's not one I'm too worried about trying to make/keep original. Need to get a few other bike projects out of the way before I can afford to start the build.

Someone else with a Kat and plan to do one up! Excellent. Really I didn't do the work myself. I brought it done (for the track) and had Bruce Lewis from Wellington Motor Cycle Inspection Services sort it for the road. I've still got the 1992 GSXR750 (running parts bike) and 7/11 which I'd love to do but more realistically will sell.

Be really interested to follow your build if you post it.

[IronPawz]

Hi I have built a 750/1100 Kat. the best option for an engine is a 1135EFE, these are grunt motors and are still used for drag racing today.
They are the last of the roller crank motors and the crank come welded from factory. You can take them out to 1400cc but the most popular is the 1230 kit.

The engine goes straight in, with new bottom engine mount which you can find drawings for on line.
I went with the EFE CDI and changed the wiring to suit which was not hard, I most likely will have the drawing some where.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC00090_zps1fbc17e3.jpg

The bike is quite different now as this is an old photo. I have the standard swingarm running a 170 18in and 120 17in on the front. CBR 900 discs with Kawasaki twin pot calipers on the front.

I am also building a GSX1100E with GSXR11 USD forks, Honda triple clamps as the are raised to gain ground clearance, bandit swingarm and wheel. I have most parts and the build will start after some Kat work and my RG5 is finished. I purchased most of the fitting parts for the GSX11 of bandit man as the link earlier in this thread.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC00456_zpswf3k1wxn.jpg

The 1135 engine is a beast... last of the air cooled. They come from 84-86 GSX bikes.

let me know if you have ant questions.
cheers


Just looking back on this epic answer (thanks). It turned out the bike I ended up with has the 1135 and it really is great. I do not find myself thinking about the Fireblade when I turn on the 1135. Sits at a nice just over 4000 at 100km/r. Pulls from everywhere. Smoothies are a little interesting to live with but I'm getting use to shutting them off manually. Be great to see that Kat of yours one day. Once mine is in paint etc I will ride it everywhere (next summer) and see if I cannot hook up a wee look with some faithful.

[IronPawz]

So now we are road legal the bike needed a few more things to make it road worthy. This week it got a set of S21 tires (great wearing semi track tires which have been good on track on the Blade and survived a fair amount of commuting). Also getting a 520 chain conversion targeting a narrow chain to get some more clearance between the tire (which the chain notched at some point and is very close to) and frame which it is also very close to). That will make it good enough for regular commute (though the non-shutting off smooth bore carbs are still tricky I kind of like their cruise control features).

Just tonight I went mad and brought another GSX1100EFE engine (which is what it has now). Reason? Current engine has 80,000kms and I do around 40,000 a year plus probably take it to the track (gently) and maybe the street sprints etc. Finally I am pretty sure it popped out of gear a few times in the low gears. These engines are so rare I know I'd hate myself for not getting it (and kick myself at some point due to expense of inconvenience of taking bike off road for rebuild).

Now I have to sell the old 7/11 Katana I also have (someone coming to look at it next weekend). Also the old 92 GSXR750 I got to help do the 7/11 up (front end changes over) the GIX cost me $1200 and have no lights, missing/broken fairings etc but it runs. Finally I'll go full retard and sell the fireblade for $$ to really get into the Kat (paint, rebuild new engine, probably rebuild suspension etc).

Godz in the end it will be a great machine that never will ride like the Blade and possibly kill me trying to commute in the Wellington filter... We will see.

[sidecar bob]

Re the lower front engine mount, 1135 bolts straight in where 1100 came out, it is only when bolting them into a 750 frame that the mounts are needed, as the mounting point on the chassis is further back.
Most hot rodded katanas were 750's to start with, because they were cheaper & easier to get.

[IronPawz]

Re the lower front engine mount, 1135 bolts straight in where 1100 came out, it is only when bolting them into a 750 frame that the mounts are needed, as the mounting point on the chassis is further back.
Most hot rodded katanas were 750's to start with, because they were cheaper & easier to get.

Yeah that is another reason I love my 1135 as it was a genuine 1100 originally. Personally I think you should not mess up an 1100 but I can still like it given it came that way.

I really have to sell some gear it has been REALLY expensive recently in bike land. The Kat still has plenty of $$ to go in paint, 520 conversion etc. I wonder how many people in history have sold a 2015 Blade to do up a 1982 Katana :). Some would call that insanity but the I'm sure many others understand. It will be even funnier when the reality of the Katana sees me riding a KR150 150kms a day while it gets painted etc. The mighty KR a 150cc two stroke that is said to do 160km/h from standard. Gods it needs some $$ to for chain, sprockets, tires and re-registration. I'll want to do all the fluids etc also.

I'll know why I did mind every time I see the finished product sitting in town or carving up the commute. I LOVE to see a Kat on the road and I almost never do. I've not even seen one at a bike show in ages (other than when I took my soon to be sold standard 7/11 to chrome rockers last year and parked it between some Harleys (one with a totally chewed up back tire which I was really impressed to see).

A Blade and a Katana makes me think I should be driving a Rapier.

[husaberg]

Yeah that is another reason I love my 1135 as it was a genuine 1100 originally. Personally I think you should not mess up an 1100 but I can still like it given it came that way.

I really have to sell some gear it has been REALLY expensive recently in bike land. The Kat still has plenty of $$ to go in paint, 520 conversion etc. I wonder how many people in history have sold a 2015 Blade to do up a 1982 Katana :). Some would call that insanity but the I'm sure many others understand. It will be even funnier when the reality of the Katana sees me riding a KR150 150kms a day while it gets painted etc. The mighty KR a 150cc two stroke that is said to do 160km/h from standard. Gods it needs some $$ to for chain, sprockets, tires and re-registration. I'll want to do all the fluids etc also.

I'll know why I did mind every time I see the finished product sitting in town or carving up the commute. I LOVE to see a Kat on the road and I almost never do. I've not even seen one at a bike show in ages (other than when I took my soon to be sold standard 7/11 to chrome rockers last year and parked it between some Harleys (one with a totally chewed up back tire which I was really impressed to see).

A Blade and a Katana makes me think I should be driving a Rapier.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2035
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2053
front from
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF308
Rear seems to be
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR1825
I always wondered if a GN400 was good for anything.

[Grumph]

A Blade and a Katana makes me think I should be driving a Rapier.

God no...a thousand times no....

An Olds Cutlass would fit nicely with the Kat.

[pete376403]

Or a Stiletto...

[husaberg]

God no...a thousand times no....

An Olds Cutlass would fit nicely with the Kat.


Or a Stiletto...

Sorry guys Droop snout of the Kat Screams Vauxhall Chevette
https://images.honestjohn.co.uk/imagecache/file/width/640/media/5634792/Vauxhall%20Chevette%202300HS%20(1).jpg
or maybe if i drop the sarcasm level


Plymouth Superbird
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d5/48/c3/d548c3d7a538dbb10323513f5df37a33.jpg

[Grumph]

Sorry guys Droop snout of the Kat Screams Vauxhall Chevette
or maybe if i drop the sarcasm level
Plymouth Superbird


Disqualified as not named for a blade....

The only other one I can remember - Buick LeSaber.

[husaberg]

Disqualified as not named for a blade....

The only other one I can remember - Buick LeSaber.
I was more making a statement of the styling
but if swords are the prerequisite Excalibur
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4e/Excalibur_Series_III_Roadster_SS_in_Paris.jpg/220px-Excalibur_Series_III_Roadster_SS_in_Paris.jpg
Dagger
http://lln.mnmcdn.com/photos/content/march2010/thumbnailsnew/dagger-gt-6_653.jpg
Scimiter
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2RvCCMtMXu8/WBRHccHImuI/AAAAAAAAErA/axKZjMoESTs/w1200-h630-p-k-no-nu/blogger-image-1413102975.jpg
Triumph Toledo
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3b/1973_Triumph_Toledo_%286747766819%29.jpg/280px-1973_Triumph_Toledo_%286747766819%29.jpg

[IronPawz]

Few things have changed for the Katana. Tried original carbs verses the Smoothies, they suck and need tuning which is good money after bad so I'm just building up to new Mikuni RS 36mm flatslides (commit dam it just click by now).

Mean time a rare find big bore kit with appropriately bored barrels came up on trademe and I just kind go brought them (only bidder $525 NZ go good deal they are like $700US and that is without the barrels). https://www.ebay.com.au/p/wiseco-piston-kit-suzuki-gs1150-4345m07700/1511845700?iid=252813446494

After a de-carbon run the current engine is 175/175/175/175 compression which is AMAZING as it is suppose to be 80,000km engine. I've a spare engine so that will get the big bore (if its good when stripped) eventually.

Bidding on a second hand Yoshi pipe. So soon it should have new carbies (COMMIT) and new pipe which is all it really needs but later that other motor will start being built and we will see about maybe some cams... Dammit I really need to just sort out some dam carbies and before those summer days. I need someone to list a new set on trademe that cures my lazy arse!

I'll add some photos again some point. I've decided for paint I'll leave it in ratty original, primer and rust for now and once running again I'll just go rust killer and maybe mock up a colour scheme in spray cans? I really want the basics in place before a proper painting.

Ahh bikes! My May 2015 Fireblade is now at 93,000 kms I've love to give the Kat a crack at some high KM commuting which means more than anything carbs.

[IronPawz]

I took the back cowling off the bike today. It immediately looked better without. So I tested some seat positions by just sitting a seat in front of the bike and taking some photos. I can see what I'd like to move towards.

[IronPawz]

The first photo is the seats as they fit now with no cowling. Its a bit rude and the back seat seems high.

The second image the same back seat is just in front of the seat frame just to get a sense of that seat leveled. I like it better than the current setup.

The third photo is using the back seat of a GSXR750 (1992) also sitting in front of the bike.

Most likely the bike will not need passengers so I think that seat would be covered in a shell and the back foot rests can go. Get some clear space back through the middle. I could probably keep the current seat (which is nicer to sit on) and keep with the preference of nod to the past modern.

It is more similar to the Icon Katana.

I've also included an image that got skewed just because it came out looking kind of cool.

[husaberg]

http://bikereview.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Steve-Martin-TBR-Katana-2.jpg

[Crasherfromwayback]

http:/pg

Cool bike. Fucking ugly colour.

[husaberg]

Cool bike. Fucking ugly colour.
http://www.bikermetric.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Ext-Katana-Bomber.jpg
http://www.bikebound.com/2017/02/17/suzuki-gsx1100s-katana-restomod/

[Crasherfromwayback]

[IMG]hmod/[/url]

Sorry. Upside down forks don't do it for me on a Kat build. Mine most certainly won't have them.

[husaberg]

Sorry. Upside down forks don't do it for me on a Kat build. Mine most certainly won't have them.
The angle on the FCRs look wrong as well be better of with Keihin CR's or RS Mikunis
Yeah it would look better with a set of 43mm of R6 with blue spots and 320mm brembo discs of a ducati on spoked rim of a yamaha XS650. or a front end set u of the XJ1300R with the 100mm brembos and a spoked set up.
But i posted them as the standard seat can be tidied up to look good, IMO the seat is a integral part of the Kats pajamas
Myself I prefer the look of a GPZ1100 anyway, more raw

[AllanB]

Cool bike. Fucking ugly colour.

Meh - I dig that blue. Retro

[Crasherfromwayback]

Myself I prefer the look of a GPZ1100 anyway, more raw

Loved mine.

333178

[husaberg]

Meh - I dig that blue. Retro
Not a million miles from this either just way more pearl and a bit of pastel
333182

Loved mine.

333178
I aways liked them better in red.

[Crasherfromwayback]

I aways liked them better in red.

Well, they never came in green. Mine was Red. but being and Eddie Lawson fan, I simply had to paint it lime green.

[husaberg]

Well, they never came in green. Mine was Red. but being and Eddie Lawson fan, I simply had to paint it lime green.
What was the one that was metallic green was that the KZ1000?
Were they all red?
ERL's and resto looks is a whole other thread subject in itself

[Crasherfromwayback]

What was the one that was metallic green was that the KZ1000?
Were they all red?
ERL's and resto looks is a whole other thread subject in itself

Z1000R, or in some countries, Z1100R's ,EL reps, were green or white. Not metallic green though.

ZX1100A's (Uni Track versions, came either red or in some markets silver). Some countries may have had variations on those themes.

[T.W.R]

Z1000R, or in some countries, Z1100R's ,EL reps, were green or white. Not metallic green though.


Falsgrave Auto spares had a white edition Z1000R sitting in their store for ages but wouldn't sell it :pinch:

Here's the factory 1000S race ready offering

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/163275-Just-like-Eddie-s?p=1130669155#post1130669155

[husaberg]

Z1000R, or in some countries, Z1100R's ,EL reps, were green or white. Not metallic green though.

ZX1100A's (Uni Track versions, came either red or in some markets silver). Some countries may have had variations on those themes.
The one i thinking of was the late 70's it might have been more bronze but def metallic
when you think about it there were quite a few bikes only offered or at least seen on one colour.

[IronPawz]

The Katana is back and running well. A day around Manfield I thought it went well. Slight break issue either the pads are glazed or it has sintered pads on its cast iron disks. Either way they worked but shuddered and left an odd pattern on the disks.
Best to replace the pads they are possibly over a decade old.

I saw around 210 kmph (I don't look often) a few times. The GSX1100EFE engine (1350cc) pulled to 12,000 which seemed a bit extreme so I shortened it to 11,000 not sure what red line should be. Rev gauge bounced about at times (clutch in at end of straight).
The clip on the exhaust touched down and I had to move the screw around to the inside of the tail pipe. It pulled wide because I just couldn't get it low enough to hold the line so I could work on that and get more corner speed. I'm not sure I want to take it to the track often but it was REALLY good fun so I almost certainly will to Manfield given it suites big bikes.
Tiring to ride (compared to my normal Fireblade) but that again is part of the fun. The joy of pulling past someone on a much later bike occasionally is hard to describe.

Also I never rev matched so I'm probably being overly hard on the motor/clutch and need to learn life with no slipper clutch. The clutch looks like its around max adjustment and it could do with more, feels grabby and to low on the lever. Maybe the wire is stretched. Might look to do the clutch over winter.


I do have a spare motor and a 1260cc kit ready to go too at some point. For now I'm happy to run the current engine which stopped smoking so much after a couple of laps around the track.

[jellywrestler]

Z1000R, or in some countries, Z1100R's ,EL reps, were green or white. Not metallic green though.
the green eddie lawson replicas were built here, cycle colour paint z1000J's etc, the later white ones were from japan

[Crasherfromwayback]

the green eddie lawson replicas were built here, cycle colour paint z1000J's etc, the later white ones were from japan

Maybe the ones brought into NZ mate...but world wide...I very much doubt it.

[jellywrestler]

Maybe the ones brought into NZ mate...but world wide...I very much doubt it.

nah, meant the nz ones pete, they had to use up the Z1000j's somehow.

[Crasherfromwayback]

nah, meant the nz ones pete, they had to use up the Z1000j's somehow.

Ah. Yep. Think he did the Z1RTC's too yeah?

[jellywrestler]

Ah. Yep. Think he did the Z1RTC's too yeah? yeah but they were built world wide like that, or at least the countries they sold them
locally modified bikes, whereas the ELR was avaialble elsewhere so they made some here, quite a bit differnt to the factory bikes though, don't hink you'd get away with it now with the internaughty keeping everybody up to date with shit

[sidecar bob]

With the EF I'd be shortening the redline to 9500.
Check the tacho, because serious race engines don't even go that hard.
If you keep pulling 12000 on it, you may want to keep an eye out for a spare engine.