Squared-off tires, or is it tyres?

[Metastable]

I guess this is more along the lines of survival maintenance....

It has been quite a long time since I've ridden a sportbike on the road (circa 2007). However, recently I sold by track bike and bought a 2008 R6. I have decided to do a road trip with a mate before making the R6 a track machine ..... and he coincidentally bought a 2009 R6. Both bikes have less than 8000kms, are stock, and aside from a bit more preload on my friend's bike the settings were put to factory stock settings for everything else. Both machines are in essentially mint condition. I did basic maintenance on both bikes (adjusted chain, tire pressure etc...), with mine I also lubed up all the suspension bits while changing out the previous owner's lowering linkages.

My bike came with brand new tires. I took it for a shakedown ride and it felt great. Then I hopped on my friend's bike and did the same shakedown ride (he lives quite far away, but there was a good deal near my place, so when he was here for work, he bought the 2009 R6).

:shit: <-- my expression at the first corner I got to.... very low speed. At first the bike was reluctant to turn in, then it turned in like a bastard. Same thing on some other corners and if I touched the brakes mid corner and didn't keep strong input on the inside bar, it would shoot back up. On faster corners and while doing quick left/right transitions it was a lot less noticeable.... but at slow speeds ..... BUGGER ME!!!

I must say I have never ridden a bike with tires as squared off as this one. When I checked the tire pressure (before ever riding it), they were super low.... 18 psi rear 21 psi front.... which to some part explains the excessive centre tire wear. The pressures were adjusted before the ride.

So what's the point. I guess it's obvious that new tires usually feel better than used ones; however, I never realized how totally buggered up a bike feels with tires that are extremely squared off. The transition between flat and round is so pronounced, that slow corners are plain scary.

Anyway - peeps can ride what they want, but if you have squared off tires and your bike feels like crap, maybe consider a simple change that will make your riding a lot more enjoyable and safe too.

[Drew]

Most people don't notice the extent that squared tyres hinder performance, because it's a gradual transition as they stack up k's. When they replace tyres they all make the same revelation you just have.

[george formby]

Yup, the only bit of the bike that touches the road should be in top condition.

Tire reviews that start with "I've just changed from blah blah old tires to blah blah new tires and the new blah blah's are a huge improvement...." immediately lose my attention.

Good point with the slow speed handling, anything untoward becomes very apparent doing tight, slow speed, turns. You get instant feed back.

[Drew]

I wanna troll the tard that's using the brakes mid turn!

[Jin]

Why would he set the pressure so low? I have seen in the US forums they set their pressures super low like 30-35 in the rear which is stupid when manufacturer recommended is 42.

[Metastable]

:D Oh I'm pretty comfortable applying brakes mid-corner..... and I'm not going to get into a where to brake debate..... I've explained myself lots on here before. Anyway, during the shakedown ride I was trying all sorts of stuff (cornering, braking, going over bumps on purpose, fast, slow...shakedown) .... I never did need to touch the brakes mid corner.... but I did it on purpose to see how the bike reacted. ;)

As for the low pressure - I think the dude was just clueless.... about checking his tire pressure. For a sec I thought my gauge gave me a false reading. Also - FYI, for the track some tires like Dunlops actually have fairly low recommended rear tire pressures..... low 20s. (I know it's the track, just an FYI... they are street legal race tires)

[jellywrestler]

I wanna troll the tard that's using the brakes mid turn!

try riding a z1300 without doing this and you die

[george formby]

I wanna troll the tard that's using the brakes mid turn!

I decided not to mention it... I've had incidents were, er, em, other riders have caused me to hit both brakes in a corner. Maybe I was to close, maybe they just spotted a dollar coin on the road. Dunno. Even my Exxon Valdez with wilted celery sticks for forks and a playdoh shock stands up sharpish if I touch the front brake tipping in. Most disconcerting.

[swbarnett]

Most people don't notice the extent that squared tyres hinder performance, because it's a gradual transition as they stack up k's. When they replace tyres they all make the same revelation you just have.
I commute about 100km of motorway every week day. As a result my tyres do eventually square off before they get replaced. I've never had the problem of "not noticing it". A weekend twisty ride on old tyres soon has me wanting new ones. Having said that it also depends very much on what "rubber" I'm running. The Conti Road Attacks (1 & 2) were terrible when squared off but the BT45s were less of a problem. The PR4s I'm running now don't seem to square off nearly as much. After 16,000km there was a noticable but not huge difference once the new rear went on (22k now and I've yet to change the front).

[Kickaha]

Why would he set the pressure so low? I have seen in the US forums they set their pressures super low like 30-35 in the rear which is stupid when manufacturer recommended is 42.

42 is more likely the maximum pressure at maximum load

[Drew]

Why would he set the pressure so low? I have seen in the US forums they set their pressures super low like 30-35 in the rear which is stupid when manufacturer recommended is 42.

Bridgestone say 40 something in the S20 rear hoop. I run 32. NZ supplier agrees with me, he knows how I ride and what I ride.

It is a safe guideline. Not the perfect number. There is no perfect number, too many variables.

[5ive]

Most people don't notice the extent that squared tyres hinder performance, because it's a gradual transition as they stack up k's. When they replace tyres they all make the same revelation you just have.

Yep, I had that same exact experience myself. Racked up some serious k's commuting every day, then didn't ride for a month over the Christmas holidays. Jumped on the bike for my regular commute, and found that my bike wasn't handling as well as it should around a long, smooth, but tightening corner in a 100km zone.

Asked the workshop to check out my bike during the next service that was due a few days later, and they couldn't find anything wrong with the bike.

I had a good look at the tyres myself, and found that even though there was still enough tread left on both, a combination of side wear on the front tyre, and enough of a flat spot on the rear made the bike unstable at high speed whilst cornering.

I wouldn't of noticed if I'd not taken a break from riding.

A New set of tyres fixed it right up.

[Jin]

R6, R1, fireblade, cbr600rr all have recommended pressure of 42 rear for the street. Going lower you might get slightly better grip but you are giving up handling and tire wear. I dont baby my bikes and have tried lower pressures but hate the squishy feeling of a lower pressure. Guess its a more a personal preference but these are sport bikes not commuters keep that in mind why the recommended pressure is 42.

[Kickaha]

R6, R1, fireblade, cbr600rr all have recommended pressure of 42 rear.
Recommended by who and where?

[neels]

Had the same thing when I stuck new boots on one of my bikes, turn in improved so much I almost chucked it on it's side at the first corner, huge difference that definitely took me by surprise.

[Metastable]

Recommended by who and where?

In all fairness when I was going through my bike's shop manual (I don't have the owner's manual) it did recommend 36psi front and 42 rear..... and it went on to say not to exceed the recommended pressure.

Having said that. My take.... I rarely ride with a pillion and I'm not all that heavy. If I put the rear at 42 and it is cool out...... what happens when it gets got and the tire warms up even more with use? I put these tires at 34 front/38 rear.

[Maha]

The bike I bought this week (bike weight 230 kgs) it had 36 rear and 29 front, and they rode prominently two up. I increased the psi to 42 rear and 32 front because that is what I like my tyre pressure to be. Tyre pressure basically comes down manufactures guidelines V personal choice.

[Moise]

Why would he set the pressure so low? I have seen in the US forums they set their pressures super low like 30-35 in the rear which is stupid when manufacturer recommended is 42.
I run 34 in the rear most of the time. I'd call it a normal pressure for a sports bike, if not slightly high.

Sent from somewhere using Tapatalk

[AllanB]

To the OP - agree. I test rode a SV1000 some years back - I did not get far, took it back to the dealer and told him I'm not interested in any of their bikes if they let them out the shop with a rear tyre like that one had - about as square as my car tyres! You had to heave it over to corner. His response was something like 'buy the bike and I'll do a deal on a tyre..' He missed my point.

Tyre pressures - manufactures recommend varying pressures depending on bikes etc. I see way to many internet posts talking of high pressures that have been read off the tyres sidewall maximum..... NO.

Altering them to suit yourself and tyre is fine. My Hornet factory rear pressure was 42 - I'm a relative lightweight and that was way to harsh - 38 was much better. You change brand of tyres and you may find a couple psi either way performs better than the previous rubber.

[WristTwister]

Tyre pressures - manufactures recommend varying pressures depending on bikes etc. I see way to many internet posts talking of high pressures that have been read off the tyres sidewall maximum..... NO.

Altering them to suit yourself and tyre is fine. My Hornet factory rear pressure was 42 - I'm a relative lightweight and that was way to harsh - 38 was much better. You change brand of tyres and you may find a couple psi either way performs better than the previous rubber.

I respectfully disagree that advising people to adjust tire pressure to suit themselves is "fine" (especially if they don't check tire pressure often). There are very good safety reasons why you should have the correct tire pressure and low pressure reduces fuel economy and tire life.

[Kickaha]

I respectfully disagree that altering tire pressure to suit yourself is "fine". There are very good safety reasons why you should have the correct tire pressure and it reduces fuel economy and tire life.

One pressure doesn't fit all, there's nothing wrong with changing them to suit yourself

[WristTwister]

One pressure doesn't fit all, there's nothing wrong with changing them to suit yourself

Suit yourself. Running lower tire pressure will reduce fuel economy and tire life (as I said before) and you're compromising on braking, cornering and stability. But whatever you know best.

[eldog]

Altering them to suit yourself and tyre is fine. My Hornet factory rear pressure was 42 - I'm a relative lightweight and that was way to harsh - 38 was much better. You change brand of tyres and you may find a couple psi either way performs better than the previous rubber.

I found it important to keep an eye on tyre pressure and condition. A few psi either side of a sweet spot for tyre/bike combo really makes a difference for me.
its good to remember tyre condition changes with use, I learnt to check my tyres regularily, which is important for newbies to learn to do.
As is noticing squaring off of tyres and slow leaks when a tube starts to fail. All things a beginner needs to learn to keep an eye out for, so often forgotten by more experienced riders.

[Kickaha]

Suit yourself. Running lower tire pressure will reduce fuel economy and tire life (as I said before) and you're compromising on braking, cornering and stability. But whatever you know best.

So the same tyre pressure regardless of whether you're two up, carting gear, weigh 140kg or 80kg?

There's too many variables to have one pressure and say "this is it" and if reducing or increasing the pressure makes the bike feel better for the rider then it is making it safer

[george formby]

A rule of thumb I had mentioned to me re pressures makes sense. Check your pressure cold, go for a typical ride and check pressure again. If it is 2-3 psi higher your in the ball park. A bigger rise implies it's to soft, no rise, to hard.

[Jin]

So the same tyre pressure regardless of whether you're two up, carting gear, weigh 140kg or 80kg?

There's too many variables to have one pressure and say "this is it" and if reducing or increasing the pressure makes the bike feel better for the rider then it is making it safer
You can adjust it to suit but the starting point should be manufacturers recommended setting. I played around with pressures and found 40-42 is best in the rear. I tried mid 30s and found handling, fuel economy and feel was worse. The "feel" is subjective some may prefer the soft squishy feeling i personally didnt. To top it off my rear was squared off as well but that was because my tire was almost gone and i lowered the pressure to warm quicker and grip a bit better for the last 1000kms i was able to squeeze out of them.

[AllanB]

I respectfully disagree that advising people to adjust tire pressure to suit themselves is "fine" (especially if they don't check tire pressure often). There are very good safety reasons why you should have the correct tire pressure and low pressure reduces fuel economy and tire life.

One size does not fit all.

Read my post again - factory 42 rear was shit for my body weight, harsh ride, and a rear that was not filling me with confidence. A drop to 38 cured it and the tyres stuck like glue and wore very well thanks. Someone with another 15-20kg of body weight may have preferred the extra psi.

A different tyre will have different characteristics too - some brands have softer sidewalls than others - playing with a couple of psi can make a huge difference in the bikes and tyres performance.

The manufacture offer a recommended starting point. If it works for you, excellent, if not experiment in small increments. A couple psi can make a difference.

Me - I check my tyre pressures at least every second week.

[AllanB]

Here is one I've been thinking of for a while and experimented with recently. Seasonal pressure.

Say you run 36/36 all summer long and are happy with it. Riding temperatures in the low to high 20's and warm roads.

Do you adjust pressures in winter when you may be riding on cold roads with air temps struggling to hit a double digit?


I remember a new Aprilia being binned a few years back by a KB rider (was not his bike either!) he commented on the tyre pressure being 'high' for the cold conditions.

[Drew]

Here is one I've been thinking of for a while and experimented with recently. Seasonal pressure.

Say you run 36/36 all summer long and are happy with it. Riding temperatures in the low to high 20's and warm roads.

Do you adjust pressures in winter when you may be riding on cold roads with air temps struggling to hit a double digit?


I remember a new Aprilia being binned a few years back by a KB rider (was not his bike either!) he commented on the tyre pressure being 'high' for the cold conditions.


It's not the race track, shouldn't make fuck all difference on the road.

Sounds to me like the guy was a fucken squid making excuses for fucking it up.


By all means, play with tyre pressures. But not till you know what it is you hope to achieve, and the effects of the changes other than the desired one. Don't do it just for wank value of telling people "I set my bike up like this for maximum grip at 60° lean".

[AllanB]

It's not the race track, shouldn't make fuck all difference on the road.

Sounds to me like the guy was a fucken squid making excuses for fucking it up.


By all means, play with tyre pressures. But not till you know what it is you hope to achieve, and the effects of the changes other than the desired one. Don't do it just for wank value of telling people "I set my bike up like this for maximum grip at 60° lean".


Hahahah there were lots of excuses for sure! One of those offs with a 'WTF' why did that happen situation.


Now - look you'll have everyone wanting advice on tyre pressures to hit that 60 degree lean now .......... is that how you get rid of the chicken strip - it's all about the tyre pressure.

[SVboy]

Interesting thread. In the OPs first post he said he had returned both bikes to std suspension settings, apart from a little more preload. Good place to start, but a better place would be setting sags for each individual rider. Why would factory rebound settings be right with fork and shock oil that is now years and Kms old?
Tyre pressure is an individual thing. The factory says 42 for a rear S20, yet Drew runs 34? He is an experienced rider and probably used prior knowledge and experimentation to get to where he feels the tyre is working for him. AllanB is an experienced rider with a sophisticated bike, but he didn't just accept the manuals suggestions, he experimented to find what works for him.
I run 25 f 29r on my motard on the road. Works for me. Search the net for Dave Moss, it will be worth your while.

[Drew]

Hahahah there were lots of excuses for sure! One of those offs with a 'WTF' why did that happen situation.


Now - look you'll have everyone wanting advice on tyre pressures to hit that 60 degree lean now .......... is that how you get rid of the chicken strip - it's all about the tyre pressure.


Fuck yeah. 50psi to get rid of yer chicken strips. Every time.

[R650R]

42 PSI is suicidal for any sportsbike... that's asking for a cold tyre highside or lowside for that matter.
The GSXR 750 I run at 34 front and 36 rear in summer, maybe couple psi lower in cold conditions. The DR on80/20 tyres runs as low as 24/28 F/R but typically 28/32 F/R. When it came back from an absurd 33 PSI after the dealer first service when new I could feel it letting go too easy.
Don't brake thru corners and tyres should wear fairly evenly.
Yep nothing like a fresh front tyre to transform handling....
I regard 20psi as dead flat for sportsbike but have ridden home with 6 spi in rear tyre, it was near end of its life so didn't mind BBq ing it vs breakdown/recovery late ona sunday....

[Drew]

42 PSI is suicidal for any sportsbike... that's asking for a cold tyre highside or lowside for that matter.
The GSXR 750 I run at 34 front and 36 rear in summer, maybe couple psi lower in cold conditions. The DR on80/20 tyres runs as low as 24/28 F/R but typically 28/32 F/R. When it came back from an absurd 33 PSI after the dealer first service when new I could feel it letting go too easy.
Don't brake thru corners and tyres should wear fairly evenly.
Yep nothing like a fresh front tyre to transform handling....
I regard 20psi as dead flat for sportsbike but have ridden home with 6 spi in rear tyre, it was near end of its life so didn't mind BBq ing it vs breakdown/recovery late ona sunday....
20psi is far from dead flat. I've run SC2 supercorsa rear that low many times.

So stop making sweeping statements when there are too many variables to make a hard rule.

[george formby]

Yeah, to low a pressure causes bad wear. Flat tire on the local roundabout. The whole tire tire looked like that. A can of tire weld and a slow trip home before the photo. Tire is still going strong with a plug in it.

323711

[Jin]

42 PSI is suicidal for any sportsbike... that's asking for a cold tyre highside or lowside for that matter.
The GSXR 750 I run at 34 front and 36 rear in summer, maybe couple psi lower in cold conditions. The DR on80/20 tyres runs as low as 24/28 F/R but typically 28/32 F/R. When it came back from an absurd 33 PSI after the dealer first service when new I could feel it letting go too easy.
Don't brake thru corners and tyres should wear fairly evenly.
Yep nothing like a fresh front tyre to transform handling....
I regard 20psi as dead flat for sportsbike but have ridden home with 6 spi in rear tyre, it was near end of its life so didn't mind BBq ing it vs breakdown/recovery late ona sunday....
Fuck off


10char

[onearmedbandit]

Fuck it's another 'what oil' thread...

[AllanB]

Fuck it's another 'what oil' thread...
Full synthetic surely. Only the best will do.

[scumdog]

Fuck it's another 'what oil' thread...


Add it to the KB Wave thread and we'd really have something!:banana:

[ellipsis]

...'bin riding on shit tyres for eons...they were fucking nearly built square for some of the shit I've owned...did a few seasons on IRC's on a post classic, sometimes they had enough air, they only let go once without rider instruction...you cunts are all dependents...sticky expensive tyres only last for about ten smiles whenever I own a set...

[AllanB]

I was in at the local Suzuki dealer a few weeks back - a M109R had a new tyre on the rear - a 240 something 18 I think. Bloody new tyre profile was not very curved compared to what I usually look at they must be shit when worn. That's one wide rear though.

[swbarnett]

...sticky expensive tyres only last for about ten smiles whenever I own a set...
16k out of a PR4 rear. Front's on 22 and still going strong.

[Gremlin]

While the thread has touched on factors such as the factory manual and a riders personal preference, remember that the tyre itself probably makes as big a difference, if not more. Different tyres are constructed differently with different compounds. You have single compound, dual, triple and and varying compound. Some tyres have a stiff carcass, others have a soft one and obviously some are sticky, some not so sticky, silica content etc etc and so on.

A tyre with a stiffer carcass will handle a lower pressure and retain it's shape better than a tyre with a softer carcass. Indeed, a stiffer carcass may need the lower pressure to deform and perform in certain environments, where a higher pressure would be detrimental. You also need to remember what the max pressure for a tyre is, some can't handle more than say, 36psi.

So, just because you run one model of tyre at a pressure, doesn't mean a different tyre will be great at the same pressure. Couple that with rider preference, and basically the best thing to do is educate people and let them make their own decision.

[caspernz]

Amusing reading this stuff. My Busa manual says 42 psi front and rear. Well mmmm, if I crank the pressures up to that, it just plain sucks!

Do a bit of research and find it's all to do with manufacturer of bike not being sued by some dumbass Yankee doodle who can't work out that when he puts a pillion on the back, along with his luggage, the tyre pressures need to go up a little.

Experience with various tyres, 38 front and rear is a good starting point one up. Day at the track? 36/32 is a good set of numbers. Two up? Well funnily enough, 40/42 works quite nicely under those conditions...

[rastuscat]

The issue is that as tyres wear we as riders simply adapt to them over the life of the tyre. When we get new tyres the difference is normally stark.

I'm always reluctant to get rid of a set of tyres until the last of the life is out of them. It's a money thing.

This morning I'll be scrubbing in my Metzler Z8s. When I rode the bike home from the shop the tip in had me grinning from ear to ear.

The bike is a R1200RT. It's 300 kg ish. I run 36 front and 42 rear. It's the manufacturers recommendation. I don't know better than him, so I'm okay with that.

Tyre pressures always make for good debate. Track experiences cause people to raise or lower their road tyres for normal use. Despite the fact that on the road tyres are expected to be a jack of all trades, dealing with lots of different surfaces and conditions.

I look forward to new tyres when the time comes.

[nzspokes]

The issue is that as tyres wear we as riders simply adapt to them over the life of the tyre. When we get new tyres the difference is normally stark.

I'm always reluctant to get rid of a set of tyres until the last of the life is out of them. It's a money thing.

This morning I'll be scrubbing in my Metzler Z8s. When I rode the bike home from the shop the tip in had me grinning from ear to ear.

The bike is a R1200RT. It's 300 kg ish. I run 36 front and 42 rear. It's the manufacturers recommendation. I don't know better than him, so I'm okay with that.

Tyre pressures always make for good debate. Track experiences cause people to raise or lower their road tyres for normal use. Despite the fact that on the road tyres are expected to be a jack of all trades, dealing with lots of different surfaces and conditions.

I look forward to new tyres when the time comes.

Normally that would be the 2 up setting. But for 300kg's you might be better off with 50 psi.:laugh:

I tear the sides off the fronts before anything else. 6000ks on my PR3s and the fronts starting to get average.

[Coldrider]

Normally that would be the 2 up setting. But for 300kg's you might be better off with 50 psi.:laugh:

I tear the sides off the fronts before anything else. 6000ks on my PR3s and the fronts starting to get average.cbr600 and zx9r I had tore the sides out of front tyres at 6ks as you mentioned, cbr1000rr wears them well rounded with twice the k's, original s20 front did 11ks, replaced with pp3 , bike at 24ks now and at least another 4ks left.Running 36psi in front, run 40 42psi in the rear to decrease sidewall flex for max milage. I put front tyre wear pattern down to the specific bikes handling.

[MrMarko]

Most people don't notice the extent that squared tyres hinder performance, because it's a gradual transition as they stack up k's. When they replace tyres they all make the same revelation you just have.

Finally swapping out the crumbly center worn pile of crud thats on front of mine tomorrow

MMMmmmm super corsa.

[nzspokes]

cbr600 and zx9r I had tore the sides out of front tyres at 6ks as you mentioned, cbr1000rr wears them well rounded with twice the k's, original s20 front did 11ks, replaced with pp3 , bike at 24ks now and at least another 4ks left.Running 36psi in front, run 40 42psi in the rear to decrease sidewall flex for max milage. I put front tyre wear pattern down to the specific bikes handling.

Agreed. All my Bandits have gone through fronts.

[MrMarko]

36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear for max mileage you lot got a death wish or something?

come down at least 4psi on both if you want to actually stay on the road.... tyres are cheaper than mirrors bars fairings exhausts etc.


Why run high pressure for mileage, i mean really its chicken shit to spend for the benefits of safety/ the risk isn't worth the money saved.

[nzspokes]

36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear for max mileage you lot got a death wish or something?

come down at least 4psi on both if you want to actually stay on the road.... tyres are cheaper than mirrors bars fairings exhausts etc.


Why run high pressure for mileage, i mean really its chicken shit to spend for the benefits of safety/ the risk isn't worth the money saved.

Oh dear. :facepalm:

[MrMarko]

Oh dear. :facepalm:

Great response there with a detailed opinion back.

[MrMarko]

https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/motorcycle/all-tyres/sheet/diablo-supercorsa-sc#/technical-advice

You see anything remotely near a 36/40 pressure.

Yes various tyres are different but not by that much...

No wonder you guys are constantly sliding down the road on your arses. you're riding on a bloodey basketball.

[nzspokes]

https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/motorcycle/all-tyres/sheet/diablo-supercorsa-sc#/technical-advice

You see anything remotely near a 36/40 pressure.

Yes various tyres are different but not by that much...

No wonder you guys are constantly sliding down the road on your arses. you're riding on a bloodey basketball.

I will remember to chuck my warmers on before I go to work on Monday. Then again I dont ride on track tyres.

Slow down Rossi.

[MrMarko]

I will remember to chuck my warmers on before I go to work on Monday. Then again I dont ride on track tyres.

Slow down Rossi.

Doesnt matter if you're going like rossi or not... even cumuting there are tight corners and a need for heavy braking due to idiots etc. never skimp on pads or tyres.... friction is your friend.

[nzspokes]

Doesnt matter if you're going like rossi or not... even cumuting there are tight corners and a need for heavy braking due to idiots etc. never skimp on pads or tyres.... friction is your friend.

Commuting.

I do it a bit. I dont seem to hit things. Maybe Im doing it ok.

[MrMarko]

Commuting.

I do it a bit. I dont seem to hit things. Maybe Im doing it ok.

Yes commuting well done.

Sorry was in full riding gear walking out door because i actually ride my bike not just sit on the internet.

[onearmedbandit]

Any yet you wonder why Mark?

[MrMarko]

Any yet you wonder why Mark?

haha

wonder why everybody dislikes me.

i sit here wondering why anybody thinks i could give one single fuck what anybody thinks of me, my opinion is my opinion take it as you wish.

[Madness]

my opinion is my opinion take it as you wish.

Maybe just try keeping it to yourself a little more often?

[nzspokes]

Yes commuting well done.

Sorry was in full riding gear walking out door because i actually ride my bike not just sit on the internet.

What a hero guy.

Ever thought others may know a bit as well?

[mossy1200]

Others may know a bit as well?

I am blissfully ignorant of everything.:eek5:

[swbarnett]

36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear for max mileage you lot got a death wish or something?
Sometimes. But that's another story and nothing to do with riding.

Ever since I've been using PR4s I run 36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear. I commute 600km a week, rural and motorway, and haven't even come close to losing grip. Even on tar bleed in torrential rain.

Oh, and these are the first tyres that I've ever run right to the edge.

FYI: The PR4s last about 29k front and 16k rear.

[MrMarko]

Sometimes. But that's another story and nothing to do with riding.

Ever since I've been using PR4s I run 36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear. I commute 600km a week, rural and motorway, and haven't even come close to losing grip. Even on tar bleed in torrential rain.

Oh, and these are the first tyres that I've ever run right to the edge.

FYI: The PR4s last about 29k front and 16k rear.

16,000km out of a rear tyre...

i get 1/4 of that.

Puttering around commuting i'm not really suprised you get those k's out of them with them pumped up that hard.

If i rode how i do on the twisties with that kind of pressure pushing down the power i'd be off the road doing cartwheels within minutes.

[Coldrider]

36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear for max mileage you lot got a death wish or something?

come down at least 4psi on both if you want to actually stay on the road.... tyres are cheaper than mirrors bars fairings exhausts etc.


Why run high pressure for mileage, i mean really its chicken shit to spend for the benefits of safety/ the risk isn't worth the money saved.you are full of shit so your unintelligence doesn't matter. I have been riding bikes 10 years before you shit your first SKIDMARKS in set of nappies and I'm still alive. How come it has taken so long to get that front tyre fitted, should take 15 mins tops in your mummies garage, don't forget to use rim savers, although with your age of bike I wouldn't waste $15 on them unless you had some loose change left.

Ps, is your condom over filled in your own front tyre thread?

[swbarnett]

16,000km out of a rear tyre...

i get 1/4 of that.
What tyre? I get half again what I used to out of any other tyre I've used.


Puttering around commuting
Mate, you need to see me in traffic. No puttering involved. My commute also involves some rural roads.


i'm not really suprised you get those k's out of them with them pumped up that hard.
When I last got hte front changed at Cycletreads they didn't bat an eyelid at those pressures. It was them that recommended 36 front.


If i rode how i do on the twisties with that kind of pressure pushing down the power i'd be off the road doing cartwheels within minutes.
You really need to stop thinking you know everything. Anything less than 38 rear and the tyre feels spongy. For me, my bike and these tyres these pressures work.

[Drew]

36 pound in the front and 40 in the rear for max mileage you lot got a death wish or something?

come down at least 4psi on both if you want to actually stay on the road.... tyres are cheaper than mirrors bars fairings exhausts etc.


Why run high pressure for mileage, i mean really its chicken shit to spend for the benefits of safety/ the risk isn't worth the money saved.

That's just not how it works with road tyres. They have a soft carcass and harder rubber. S20s on the RF, 36 up front and 34 at the rear. Trust me, I messed around with it quite a bit for the purposes of testing them when they were released.

[Bass]

I haven't even come close to losing grip. Even on tar bleed in torrential rain.


Genuine question - how do you tell?

[Autech]

When I started racing it was on an old VFR400 I didn't replace the tyres for the first few rounds.
Thing was fucking horrible it wouldn't turn and then suddenly drop off a cliff, Hairpins were the worst.
I replaced the tyres with the same type (sport demons) and took a photo of the two tyres side by side (I will look for it tonight and post it for a laugh). The difference in profile was immense, the previous rider would have to had run the tyres at low pressure and nanna'd it around most corners to get it to wear like that.

[swbarnett]

Genuine question - how do you tell?
Admittedly it's a bit subjective but:
1. I know when a tyre lets go. Even a little.
2. I know what other tyres have done to me in similar conditions.
3. I can feel when a tyre is about to slide. I've had to ease off with other tyres to stop it happening. Not with the PR4s.

Some Rossi wannabe will probably find the limit of the PR4s. I don't see me ever pushing them that far.

[R650R]

Tyre pressure should always be subjective to variables of rider weight and load. A magic number may not work for everyone.
Also a lot of NZ recommneded pressures via internet 'experts'are prob from their mate that arces or does track days. And what works for a stripped lighter bike for a five to ten lap session on billard smooth race track might not work in real world.
One of the biggest things for tyre life is to not brake through corners and not always accelerating with maximum power.
Then theres suspension settings and actually having suspension serviced......
And if you've been to a track day and cooked the tyre few times with high speed runs....

On a side note most trucks run about 90psi on average. Over in Uk was surprised to see most gear running 125 psi but with high axle loadings allowed. Tarmac generally higher quality so ahrd to evaluate grip difference but horses for courses and all.

An old pitlane myth/truth i hard was that pressure should only vary by about 2 psi cold to hot if you have setup right?????

[MrMarko]

I love how as per usual somebody sits their with their opposing opinion to mine...

"you dont know everything! heres why you are wrong and i am right"

So are you not acting in the EXACT same manner as i am with my opinion, but because you disagree with me, i think i know everything and the sun shines out my arse?

I'm not a moron i understand different tyres take different pressures, different bike weights, different rider weights, different manufacturer recommendations...

However 38 pound in any rear tyre i've encountered is absurd. thats my opinion, hell i might be wrong i'm not saying because its my opinion its the be all end all answer i'm right and you are wrong...

Apparently i have to sugar coat it and be all nice about it? i cant call people morons without being basically called the young fella who knows nothing and i don't know everything? Never claimed to, never have never will.

What i do know is if you sugar coat an opinion and make it all nice and fluffy people don't listen to you, ever.

It seems when you use words like idiotic, dangerous, moronic... it generally makes them go hey maybe i should look into this...

Ahhh well, thats how i see the world thats how i am, if ya don't like it i don't give a fuck its your life.

FYI my pirelli supercorsa is lovely in the pissing rain and it isnt even properly scrubbed in yet. I do love me some decent rubber ;)

[swbarnett]

I love how as per usual somebody sits their with their opposing opinion to mine...

....

You have a lot to learn about human nature.

You don't have to sugar coat the message. Just don't belittle people in the process.

You've found one thing, others have found something different. That's all well and good but if you start calling people idiotic, moronic etc then you're definitely giving the impression that you think you know better and no discussion will be entered into.


I do love me some decent rubber ;)
Definitely with you on this.

[Coldrider]

If I wanted to be reminded of tyres that let go I can take my trusty c1 zx9r for a blast to the past, it has single compound pilot roads like the old macadam tread. If i ran 34 psi in my pr3 on the blade it would barely get me to the burt. My cbr600 my first road bike mid 90s I had bt56ss tyres and a brass monkey return cleaned them out. When much of my riding is on the super coarse chipped roads of the West coast of the South Island the tyres chop out real fast and there is nowhere to buy them, and my tyres are always warm and sticky, plus maximum milage for soft tyres means I'm doing it right. A dude I know on a 97 blade runs pr3s and I get more k's than he does.

[Coldrider]

I'm hearing the s21s are lasting no longer than the s20evo or s20, so Mr Bridgestone I'll never be a customer of yours again.

[Coldrider]

16,000km out of a rear tyre...

i get 1/4 of that.

Puttering around commuting i'm not really suprised you get those k's out of them with them pumped up that hard.

If i rode how i do on the twisties with that kind of pressure pushing down the power i'd be off the road doing cartwheels within minutes.that speaks volumes about you. The sticker on the swing arm of my loose change habit recommends s20 OE tyres at 250kpa front and 290kpa rear, guess what, that is 36 42psi, and Asians average IQ is higher than us whiteys and they design and manufacture the machines and quite a few tyres so where does that leave you?

[MrMarko]

that speaks volumes about you. The sticker on the swing arm of my loose change habit recommends s20 OE tyres at 250kpa front and 290kpa rear, guess what, that is 36 42psi, and Asians average IQ is higher than us whiteys and they design and manufacture the machines and quite a few tyres so where does that leave you?

Bridgestone Battlax S20 Tire Pressures
Racetrack
Front (cold): 32 psi
Front (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Rear (cold): 30 psi
Rear (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Street
Front (OEM recommendations)
Rear (OEM recommendations)


^^^yes i'm not blind i do see the review says oem pressures for the street.... it's called idiot proofing and liability of the manufacturer.

Yes the track and street are different... the track is alot stickier in surface and the pressure change of the tyre will be alot more than you'll get on the street and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure....

Even then the front and rear hot on the track is at 34 psi front and rear and thats a fully hot temperature.


You are going above that cold on the street with a rougher surface and of course pushing the tyre nowhere remotely near as hard as the track.

even cold you are another 2psi in the front and another 8 psi in the rear above the hot track temps and you expect decent grip out of it?

The other point to note here is the higher the pressure the longer you have to warm up the tyres, it becomes a struggle to get any heat into them and they cool quickly.

For a commuter/ sunny sunday rider this will do the job sure.

That isn't how i ride a motorcycle hence my opinion differs.

[MrMarko]

that speaks volumes about you.

Yeah it says i know how to ride a motorcycle hard enough on your incorrect tyre pressures i'd slide off the road.

[Jin]

Curious how fast you are riding on the street and taking corners.

[onearmedbandit]

Curious how fast you are riding on the street and taking corners.

You don't need to ask, fast enough that for the sake of a few psi different in tyre pressures he'd be doing cartwheels through the bush. Now damn that's fast...

[5ive]

It looks like someone's ego is over-inflated by a few psi :laugh:

[Hemi Makutu]

Curious how fast you are riding on the street and taking corners.

Well, to be fair - he is doing it on a giant porker with brutal warp-factor power.. not a pissy wizzer 600/4..

[Jin]

Well, to be fair - he is doing it on a giant porker with brutal warp-factor power.. not a pissy wizzer 600/4..
Well a lower tyre pressure is for corner grip. If someone is running 30psi for straightline sprints and pampering it around corners thats just fucking retarded and grinds my gears when those cunts say 42psi blahblahblah.

I can get my mates busa around corners at double speed quite comfortably eg 45 at 90 or 100 and he keeps tyres at manufacturer recommended of 42. No grip issues on his battleaxes. Im running pirellis but 42 was a bit high and was slipping a bit mid corner if i gassed it so keep it at 40 which is perfect. For the street of course.

[SVboy]

Tyre pressures are an individual thing. The bike makers have no control on what brand or type of tyres we put on our bikes, how we ride or our weight. Pillions?, loaded packracks?, sunday hero?, winterless North or cool South? All factors. Dave Moss suggests inflating your new tyres to the makers highest recommended levels, having a run over a repeatable route, then decreasing by 2psi and repeating, until you are comfortable with what you feel.
I am starting that journey with my Busa. Suzuki says 42/42. Does not compute in my brain, but felt good two up with a pillion. However I cant get my head around a 42 front so am slowly decreasing this.Suprising the diference a psi or 2 makes to the feel. Currently at 38f/ 40r. My DRZ400sm-not a light bike- is 25f/29r and my GSXR 600 is currently 34f/36r, depending on the temps of the day and intended use. So many factors it is worth experimenting.

[Madness]

Currently at 38f/ 40r.

That's where I set my ZX12R running Metzeler Z8's. I drop 2psi out of each if going for a fang in the wet on a cold day and maybe add 1psi if touring on highly patrolled highways :yawn:

[Blackbird]

Tyre pressures are an individual thing. The bike makers have no control on what brand or type of tyres we put on our bikes, how we ride or our weight. Pillions?, loaded packracks?, sunday hero?, winterless North or cool South?

Spot on :yes:

Your recommended 'busa pressures are the same as my old Blackbird. Because of the forward weight bias on the 'bird, coupled with conservative steering geometry, it started to feel wooden and vague if I dropped the front pressure below 42 psi. However, on both my Street Triple and GSX-S 1000, I have run lower pressures than in the manual and they both feel much better for it.

Just out of interest, I did a trackday on the GSX-S at Hampton Downs on a warm day last summer with PR4 sport touring tyres. The instructor recommended that I dropped my cold pressures to 30 psi front and rear. When I came in from one of the sessions, I checked the rear tyre pressure out of curiosity 2 or 3 minutes after stopping and it was 40psi. It would have been a fair bit higher immediately after coming in.

[Jin]

Tyre pressures are an individual thing. The bike makers have no control on what brand or type of tyres we put on our bikes, how we ride or our weight. Pillions?, loaded packracks?, sunday hero?, winterless North or cool South? All factors. Dave Moss suggests inflating your new tyres to the makers highest recommended levels, having a run over a repeatable route, then decreasing by 2psi and repeating, until you are comfortable with what you feel.
I am starting that journey with my Busa. Suzuki says 42/42. Does not compute in my brain, but felt good two up with a pillion. However I cant get my head around a 42 front so am slowly decreasing this.Suprising the diference a psi or 2 makes to the feel. Currently at 38f/ 40r. My DRZ400sm-not a light bike- is 25f/29r and my GSXR 600 is currently 34f/36r, depending on the temps of the day and intended use. So many factors it is worth experimenting.
Agree with all that. I would add it depends on the "feel" you prefer. Myself i hate the squirmy feeling of a low pressure and feel the tyre flexing. For someone whos taking corners at 200 sure a low 30s pressure is warranted but on the street you wont last long anyway doing that.

Problem i hear is that guys who say their tyres are fucked after 2000ks of hard riding see that as proof they need low pressure otherwise they'll kill themselves running 40psi. Newflash you rossi wannabes your tyre is fucked and squared off because your pressure is too low not because your a badass rider.

[MrMarko]

Agree with all that. I would add it depends on the "feel" you prefer. Myself i hate the squirmy feeling of a low pressure and feel the tyre flexing. For someone whos taking corners at 200 sure a low 30s pressure is warranted but on the street you wont last long anyway doing that.

Problem i hear is that guys who say their tyres are fucked after 2000ks of hard riding see that as proof they need low pressure otherwise they'll kill themselves running 40psi. Newflash you rossi wannabes your tyre is fucked and squared off because your pressure is too low not because your a badass rider.

Newsflash


If somebody is chewing out a rear tyre in 2000km on low pressure on back roads its typically not squared off in the middle, more that the sides are gone from cornering.

[kiwi cowboy]

Bridgestone Battlax S20 Tire Pressures
Racetrack
Front (cold): 32 psi
Front (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Rear (cold): 30 psi
Rear (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Street
Front (OEM recommendations)
Rear (OEM recommendations)


Yes the track and street are different... the track is alot stickier in surface and the pressure change of the tyre will be alot more than you'll get on the street and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure....



That isn't how i ride a motorcycle hence my opinion differs.

Ummmm could you please explain this paragraph?.

I have always been told that the lower the pressures the quicker the heat build up in said tire and to keep tire from overheating you add pressure to reduce flex which is what causes the tire to heat.

[MrMarko]

Ummmm could you please explain this paragraph?.

I have always been told that the lower the pressures the quicker the heat build up in said tire and to keep tire from overheating you add pressure to reduce flex which is what causes the tire to heat.

It goes both ways

very low pressure heats up fast and can overheat if too low,

when you get the right pressure it comes up to a good temp and holds it quite well...

going the other way you reach a point where the tyre simply cant get up to a good operating temp and even if it does its struggling to warm up so much that you start cruising a bit on a cold day and the tyre will cool off again pretty quickly....

I mean it isnt rocket science. too low... chew tyres .... too high... not using the tyres potential...

had a really good laugh at the attitude of a few psi difference in a tyre wont cause me to slide off the road and i must be riding like a street rossi to have issues... a few psi makes a massive difference and frankly if you ride your bike like that go buy a cruiser and stop posing on the 1000cc superbike

[Autech]

I swing both ways



Corrected for accuracy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MrMarko]

Corrected for accuracy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whats your point? :laugh:

Edit: sorry forgot you southerners are trapped in the 80's

[MrMarko]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEyCywipTSQ

[MrMarko]

Admit it you love the ass cams in moto GP.

[Drew]

With increased pressure, the tyre surface may get hot faster than the carcass. This causes 'sheer' where the outer layer rips up/off.

It's never described as the tyre overheating.

[Autech]

I'll admit it to you, I love Cams ass

Cam ya boyfriend is he?

Everyone in this thread should ignore MrMako who has no racing experience and listen to Drew, who has lots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jin]

Newsflash


If somebody is chewing out a rear tyre in 2000km on low pressure on back roads its typically not squared off in the middle, more that the sides are gone from cornering.
I must have missed the part where you told us how fast you are taking corners on your fast couch. Mind telling us again?

[MrMarko]

With increased pressure, the tyre surface may get hot faster than the carcass. This causes 'sheer' where the outer layer rips up/off.

It's never described as the tyre overheating.

Sounds to me like you're describing de-lamination.

[MrMarko]

Cam ya boyfriend is he?

Everyone in this thread should ignore MrMako who has no racing experience and listen to Drew, who has lots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No idea who cam is but sure.

Drew does have experience i've never denied that or even thought otherwise...

You see, some would say it is better to look stupid than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.

I have no issue throwing my thoughts out there and being proven wrong, its a great way to learn...

Meanwhile how many of you sit here quietly not questioning anything, not offering any input right or wrong to contribute to the discussion? instead you just sit there slinging shit around, i'd hardly deem it constructive.

[onearmedbandit]

Sounds to me like you're describing de-lamination.

I don't think so, typically delamination is described as the entire body of tread (of a particular area) coming free from the tyre.

First pic is of delamination, second pic is tyre tear (or as Drew was referring to, I think, sheer or ripping up.

[MrMarko]

I don't think so, typically delamination is described as the entire body of tread (of a particular area) coming free from the tyre.

First pic is of delamination, second pic is tyre tear (or as Drew was referring to, I think, sheer or ripping up.


He was talking about the outer heating faster than the carcass and the tread coming up/off so i wanted to clarify

[Autech]

Meanwhile how many of you sit here quietly not questioning anything, not offering any input right or wrong to contribute to the discussion? instead you just sit there slinging shit around, i'd hardly deem it constructive.

Alright I will bite (just like you bite the pillow).

Considering I only ride on the track now I have no other input other than to say I know from rumour that one of NZs top racers ran 39psi on the front of his 600 and won a title. Personally I think that if you think you'd fall off with 2psi extra in your tyres you need to learn how to feel what your bike is doing by doing some track days etc. When I did road ride I would drop my pressure by about 2psi in winter just to make my brain feel better, probably made fuck all difference though as I am not a twat and rode responsibly(ish) on the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MrMarko]

Alright I will bite (just like you bite the pillow).

Considering I only ride on the track now I have no other input other than to say I know from rumour that one of NZs top racers ran 39psi on the front of his 600 and won a title. Personally I think that if you think you'd fall off with 2psi extra in your tyres you need to learn how to feel what your bike is doing by doing some track days etc. When I did road ride I would drop my pressure by about 2psi in winter just to make my brain feel better, probably made fuck all difference though as I am not a twat and rode responsibly(ish) on the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You lot are supposedly grown men but resort to pretty insults and gay jokes, i'm supposedly the young fella who is meant to learn and listen and watch your example and look how you behave.

Its utterly pathetic.

Not going to bother even reading the rest of your post until you lead by example instead of opening with an insult.

[kiwi cowboy]

It goes both ways

very low pressure heats up fast and can overheat if too low,

when you get the right pressure it comes up to a good temp and holds it quite well...

going the other way you reach a point where the tyre simply cant get up to a good operating temp and even if it does its struggling to warm up so much that you start cruising a bit on a cold day and the tyre will cool off again pretty quickly....

I mean it isnt rocket science. too low... chew tyres .... too high... not using the tyres potential...

had a really good laugh at the attitude of a few psi difference in a tyre wont cause me to slide off the road and i must be riding like a street rossi to have issues... a few psi makes a massive difference and frankly if you ride your bike like that go buy a cruiser and stop posing on the 1000cc superbike

go back and read the original post.
You said to keep a tire from over heating you need lower pressure but that's counter intuitive to everything else your trying to say.

[MrMarko]

go back and read the original post.
You said to keep a tire from over heating you need lower pressure but that's counter intuitive to everything else your trying to say.

Not at all i suggest you learn to read.

[onearmedbandit]

It

had a really good laugh at the attitude of a few psi difference in a tyre wont cause me to slide off the road and i must be riding like a street rossi to have issues... a few psi makes a massive difference and frankly if you ride your bike like that go buy a cruiser and stop posing on the 1000cc superbike

Maybe they're better riders than you?

[MrMarko]

Maybe they're better riders than you?

Maybe, maybe not. probably... probably not.

Who knows.

[kiwi cowboy]

Not at all i suggest you learn to read.

and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure

This is what YOU wrote fella and I can read quite well I think.

[onearmedbandit]

Maybe, maybe not. probably... probably not.

Who knows.

Well they way it comes across from you is that if someone ain't doing it your way then they are wrong and will crash and dies.

[MrMarko]

Well they way it comes across from you is that if someone ain't doing it your way then they are wrong and will crash and dies.

Its my opinion...

I'm entitled to it.

Questions?

[MrMarko]

and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure

This is what YOU wrote fella and I can read quite well I think.

Quote my post.

[MrMarko]

and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure

This is what YOU wrote fella and I can read quite well I think.

You seem to have a bee in your bonnet as if i have said

"lower the pressure the better run 10 psi, 40psi is bad"

My point is they have an operating range of temperature and pressure...

The CORRECT pressure will come up to temp well and provide optimal grip...

Too low or too high from this is not ideal for grip or the heating and cooling of the tyre...

I thought i had been rather clear hence i suggested you learn to read.

[kiwi cowboy]

You seem to have a bee in your bonnet as if i have said

"lower the pressure the better run 10 psi, 40psi is bad"

My point is they have an operating range of temperature and pressure...

The CORRECT pressure will come up to temp well and provide optimal grip...

Too low or too high from this is not ideal for grip or the heating and cooling of the tyre...

I thought i had been rather clear hence i suggested you learn to read.

No bee In my bonnet mate.

You explicitly said to lower the pressure to stop the tire overheating which is bull shit as the tire flexes more the lower the pressure so the over heating accures quicker as I understand it and to STOP the tire over heating you need to ADD pressure.

Post 77 by the way.

[MrMarko]

Bridgestone Battlax S20 Tire Pressures
Racetrack
Front (cold): 32 psi
Front (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Rear (cold): 30 psi
Rear (hot—off the track): 34 psi
Street
Front (OEM recommendations)
Rear (OEM recommendations)


^^^yes i'm not blind i do see the review says oem pressures for the street.... it's called idiot proofing and liability of the manufacturer.

Yes the track and street are different... the track is alot stickier in surface and the pressure change of the tyre will be alot more than you'll get on the street and to keep them from overheating you need a lower pressure....

Even then the front and rear hot on the track is at 34 psi front and rear and thats a fully hot temperature.


You are going above that cold on the street with a rougher surface and of course pushing the tyre nowhere remotely near as hard as the track.

even cold you are another 2psi in the front and another 8 psi in the rear above the hot track temps and you expect decent grip out of it?

The other point to note here is the higher the pressure the longer you have to warm up the tyres, it becomes a struggle to get any heat into them and they cool quickly.

For a commuter/ sunny sunday rider this will do the job sure.

That isn't how i ride a motorcycle hence my opinion differs.

Seeing as you are incable of quoting and i have to go quote myself.... you go back and look at the post know the post number but can't even multi-quote me... but sure okay anyway...


So explain to me this....

Why drop the pressure for the race track? the tyre is being pushed harder than on the street... producing alot more heat...

So by your logic should you not run higher pressure at the track than on the street?

I'll happily admit what i was referring to was more the increase in tyre pressure from the additional heat...

I can see how its been misinterpreted as a result, however i'm happy to sit and have an adult and civil conversation if you come at me correctly.

Otherwise i'll bite peoples heads off just like they do to me when i do it.

[Madness]

:yawn:

Why is it that battery threads are so much more entertaining than tyre threads?

[Taxythingy]

Just out of interest, I did a trackday on the GSX-S at Hampton Downs on a warm day last summer with PR4 sport touring tyres. The instructor recommended that I dropped my cold pressures to 30 psi front and rear. When I came in from one of the sessions, I checked the rear tyre pressure out of curiosity 2 or 3 minutes after stopping and it was 40psi. It would have been a fair bit higher immediately after coming in.

Nice. That's a warm tyre - about 100-120 degrees C when you tested it.

[kiwi cowboy]

Seeing as you are incable of quoting and i have to go quote myself.... you go back and look at the post know the post number but can't even multi-quote me... but sure okay anyway...
OOOOh so sorry I am not completely computer literate. So explain to me this....

Why drop the pressure for the race track? the tyre is being pushed harder than on the street... producing alot more heat...
Depends on the tire I.E road tire only ya probably wont bugger all - race tires ya use warmers to get them to the optimum heat and race tires are generally harder to keep temp in so need lower pressure to stay hot but I will bow to your obviously superior knowledge.

So by your logic should you not run higher pressure at the track than on the street?

I'll happily admit what i was referring to was more the increase in tyre pressure from the additional heat...

When did I ever say that?.

I can see how its been misinterpreted as a result, however i'm happy to sit and have an adult and civil conversation if you come at me correctly.

Otherwise i'll bite peoples heads off just like they do to me when i do it.

Don't believe I have ever bit ya head off buddy lol I think ya need a wee sit down and snoze:clap:

[mossy1200]

Used to find 19 in rear and 22 in front good cold pressures for the track.

Running 34/34 on the road though.

[MrMarko]

Don't believe I have ever bit ya head off buddy lol I think ya need a wee sit down and snoze:clap:

Perhaps i'm sick of the double standard here that people can treat me like shit for any opinion and all gang up on me acting like children...

It's sweet i'm trackbike shopping, then i'll be sorting the men from the boys.

Speaking of which anybody want to buy a fully serviced rf900?

[Madness]

Perhaps i'm sick of the double standard here that people can treat me like shit for any opinion and all gang up on me acting like children...

There's no double standard, that's just how KB has evolved.

[buffstar]

Perhaps i'm sick of the double standard here that people can treat me like shit for any opinion and all gang up on me acting like children...

It's sweet i'm trackbike shopping, then i'll be sorting the men from the boys.

Speaking of which anybody want to buy a fully serviced rf900?


many many threads on this site turn into such a bullshit pisstake end up completely off topic, just gotta rise above it, don't take it personally - I guess once they worked out you were the skidmark of old there was a target on your back dude.... dunno if that's reaping what you sow or bitter twisted motherfuckers. Not everyone is out to insult you or prove you wrong, maybe take a step back and its amazing how much better shit can look after a good sleep - also who gives a flying fuck what anyone else thinks? fuckemall I say :laugh: FYI its 'tyres' not that I give a shit, we part own a tyreshop, my husband keeps me well looked after, I just know how to spell & have not read this thread whatsoever :bleh::bleh::bleh:

[MrMarko]

Completely agree and hey i bring it upon myself often enough people dont take kindly to being called morons lol...

Ehhh it's just internet bullshit it doesn't bother me in the real world. Used to years ago at times when people would transfer some joking bullshit into the real world and try pick a fight.

Gotta love the big men eh...

Ahh well, i've been working my ass off this year to try achieve my goals ...(yes on a corner with a big target around my ringpiece because i love being buttmongered) good luck with an insult now lol

A bit of internet banter is all well and good, the assumptions make me laugh alot so its worth it for amusement.

Shall see if i'm full of shit or not when the race bike is sorted won't we. :msn-wink:

[kiwi cowboy]

Completely agree and hey i bring it upon myself often enough people dont take kindly to being called morons lol...

Ehhh it's just internet bullshit it doesn't bother me in the real world. Used to years ago at times when people would transfer some joking bullshit into the real world and try pick a fight.

Gotta love the big men eh...

Ahh well, i've been working my ass off this year to try achieve my goals ...(yes on a corner with a big target around my ringpiece because i love being buttmongered) good luck with an insult now lol

A bit of internet banter is all well and good, the assumptions make me laugh alot so its worth it for amusement.

Shall see if i'm full of shit or not when the race bike is sorted won't we. :msn-wink:

So whats ya real name then so I can look for it at the zn superbike leaderboard next year?.
If ya as good as ya say someone will be sponsor im sure- maybe drew?????.pmsl.

[Drew]

I don't think so, typically delamination is described as the entire body of tread (of a particular area) coming free from the tyre.

First pic is of delamination, second pic is tyre tear (or as Drew was referring to, I think, sheer or ripping up.That's what I'm on about. Caused by the surface getting up to temp and the deeper rubber staying cold.


He was talking about the outer heating faster than the carcass and the tread coming up/off so i wanted to clarify

[Autech]

Perhaps i'm sick of the double standard here that people can treat me like shit for any opinion and all gang up on me acting like children...

It's sweet i'm trackbike shopping, then i'll be sorting the men from the boys.

Speaking of which anybody want to buy a fully serviced rf900?

Hate to say it Skiddy but you bring it upon yourself.
Cool, you can get out to track and find out that racers barely talk about tyre temps amongst themselves apart from going "Hey what pressure you running today?". They certainly don't go, oh if I ran that temp I'd fall off cause I'm a riding God. Best way to find out if your pressure is correct for the day is to "Read the tyre" plenty of info on the net on how to do this so I wont wank on about it any more.
Good luck on track.


There's no double standard, that's just how KB has evolved.

Haha, I'd say KB has devolved over the years. I tend to stick to the threads where guys like MrMako don't appear and if they do the regulars close ranks, ask J.A.W what that is like hahaha.

[MrMarko]

Hate to say it Skiddy but you bring it upon yourself.
Cool, you can get out to track and find out that racers barely talk about tyre temps amongst themselves apart from going "Hey what pressure you running today?". They certainly don't go, oh if I ran that temp I'd fall off cause I'm a riding God. Best way to find out if your pressure is correct for the day is to "Read the tyre" plenty of info on the net on how to do this so I wont wank on about it any more.
Good luck on track.



Haha, I'd say KB has devolved over the years. I tend to stick to the threads where guys like MrMako don't appear and if they do the regulars close ranks, ask J.A.W what that is like hahaha.


Well all i can say is if i have learnt anything from cars over the years is the difference a few psi on the street mkes in a tyre on a twsity back road...

Is severely effects the grip


Come into a corner on 40 psi tyres up to reasonable temp and try get it around the tight downhill stuff and you're fighting understeer and oversteer like mad....

Drop down yo 37 psi in them and no issue....


I've found the same has always applied for bikes, when i used to run higher pressures on the street.

Took it up Mt Tiger yesterday and through abbey caves with 38 psi in the rear and it was skittering all over the place.

36psi usually i have no issues....

So yes.... a couple of extra psi could reduce my grip and cause me to go off cartwheeling into a ditch.

I dont understand what loses you here.... wrong pressure means the tyre is not operating as intended... has less grip... i really dont grasp what part of that you cant understand?

a couple of psi off is less grip... = less cornering speed = slower lap times.

[MrMarko]

Bottom line.

My opinion differs, i apologize for the slander it wasn't needed to get my opinion across.

I'm more than happy to learn from those more experienced than myself I've never claimed to know everything I've never claimed that i am a riding god nor a street rossi. That's how you end up dead.

However i can't get my thrills enough on the street, i don't push any limits there at all, too much to hit if it goes sour, hence i am pursuing racing where i can really find out what i am capable of. Hell i'll probably be dead last, if i am so be it but i'll give it a damn good crack.

If anybody wishes to help me pursue that feel free but i wont hold my breath.

[Autech]

Bottom line.

My opinion differs, i apologize for the slander it wasn't needed to get my opinion across.

I'm more than happy to learn from those more experienced than myself I've never claimed to know everything I've never claimed that i am a riding god nor a street rossi. That's how you end up dead.

However i can't get my thrills enough on the street hence i am pursuing racing where i can really find out what i am capable of. Hell i'll probably be dead last, if i am so be it but i'll give it a damn good crack.

If anybody wishes to help me pursue that feel free but i wont hold my breath.

You probably wont be dead last, but I'd sooner be battling for last than on my own on the track. Nothing beats a good battle on the track.

Get in contact with your local club, they are always looking for more racers to boost their numbers so should have someone able to assist with talking you through getting your bike ready to race. Down here MCI even hire out bikes to new riders so they can give the track a go before putting all their dollars into a race bike. My first track bike was a shitty VFR400 which I took the plates and lights off, lock wired and went out on track and made a fool of myself on.

[Coldrider]

Hey McMarko, I'm heading south doing 4000ks (half life of my rear) this week. Can you man the keyboard of kiwibiker while I'm away doing the actual riding. By the way, how does that shinko rear drive out of the corners that that fancy front let's you drop into like Rossi, guess 20 year old suspension would be having an effect on your tyre pressure calculations.