Road legal KDX 200

[Hads]

Hi,

I have searched the forums and seen most saying you should sell the bike and just buy a dual purpose bike instead, however I don't think LED lights were so cheap back then.

Would it be road legal if it didn't have a lighting stator?

Is it just the lights and tyres you need to worry about?

Can someone point me to the laws on lighting? I have found some legal documentation, but it is quite a difficult read, not very explicit.

The KDX200 I have is an 01, with no lights or key, do you actually have to have a key? For security you could D-lock the disc brake to the spoke.

[husaberg]

A - Mudguards.
B - A working horn.
C - A good headlight that can be dipped when another vehicle comes towards you.
D - A working speedometer.
E - Safe steering.
F - A rear-view mirror that gives a clear view behind.
G - A red stop light at the back.
H - A red reflector at the back.
I - Safe tyres - the tread depth must be at least 1.5 millimetres right around the tyre. Ensure tyre pressure is to the manufacturer's specifications.
J - Flashing direction indicator lights at the front and back.
K - Good front and rear brakes.
L - Good footrests for both the rider and pillion passenger.
M - A good silencer and exhaust system.
N - One or more red position lights and a white number plate light at the back.
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/motorcycle-road-code/about-your-vehicle/motorcycle-requirements/

Bikes before a certain date don't need indicators, I am pretty sure its the same for a brake light, neither exemption would apply to the KDX though.

[Hads]

Thanks, a comprehensive list, I guess the question is though, what do they mean by good headlight? I found a while ago the requirements for the silencer, needing to be quieter than 110 dB at about 3000 revs.

Does the speedometer need an odometer or would a bicycle one be sufficient?

[husaberg]

Thanks, a comprehensive list, I guess the question is though, what do they mean by good headlight? I found a while ago the requirements for the silencer, needing to be quieter than 110 dB at about 3000 revs.

Does the speedometer need an odometer or would a bicycle one be sufficient?

A bike one is fine, it only needs to be able to show speeds.
As long as its adequate in the eyes of the examiner and adjusted correctly the headlight no mater how its powered is fine.
A LiPo battery should fit on the bike somewhere. likely behind the headlight.
Even a old bulb horn is fine as a horn.
https://www.cyclesolutions.co.uk/Images/Products/full52286.jpg

trailtech do a nice simple speedo multifunction dash
324389
http://www.trailtech.net/
They do led lights as well

Also look through here
https://issuu.com/ballards/docs/ballards_2015_issuu

[BM-GS]

Don't enduro bikes need to be road legal-ish generally and really properly road-legal for ISDE & such? IIRC the basics have to be there when the vehicle is sold new and then it's just a case of the bits working and being connected correctly. You can get brake light switches & such that work off brake fluid pressure, but you'll need a brake/tail light. Any old battery will do, but charging is an issue... My '06 KDX has a (broken) regulator & rear light, but I think it was tail-only (it's broken too). I guess that means there's a charging circuit on the bike somewhere. Don't know what year the model changed between the '90s one and the '06 tho.

[FJRider]

Thanks, a comprehensive list, I guess the question is though, what do they mean by good headlight?

Does the speedometer need an odometer or would a bicycle one be sufficient?

Well for a start ... by law it is required to be ON at all times the motorcycle is on the road. No mean feat ... if it is powered by a small battery.

It must be "fit for the purpose" .... or will be rejected at testing.

A "working" speedometer is required. And it is up to the rider to not exceed the legal speed limits.

[Hads]

A bike one is fine, it only needs to be able to show speeds.
As long as its adequate in the eyes of the examiner and adjusted correctly the headlight no mater how its powered is fine.
A LiPo battery should fit on the bike somewhere. likely behind the headlight.
Even a old bulb horn is fine as a horn.
https://www.cyclesolutions.co.uk/Images/Products/full52286.jpg

trailtech do a nice simple speedo multifunction dash
324389
http://www.trailtech.net/
They do led lights as well

Also look through here
https://issuu.com/ballards/docs/ballards_2015_issuu

Cool, the information I was looking for, in reply to below about light on all the time, I reckon a 5Ah battery would last 5 hours powering a LED headlight, especially if it didn't have to be too powerful. I know my old Jawa had a really weak head light for on dip and that was still legal, oddly.

[Hads]

Here is a list of parts I'm looking at:

Lights:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS-4-LED-Motorcycle-Headlight-Headlamp-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Head-Light-Fog-Lamp15W-6000K/32423829382.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.84.BdxRH6&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_3_100 57_10056_10065_10068_10055_10054_10069_10059_10058 _10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_1 0050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=3ec66704-d625-4548-a9f5-6b3e8b07583f

This for indicators and brakes, possibly put on the front too and don't wire up the break circuit?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Flexible-32-LED-Motorcycle-light-Strip-SMD-Tail-Running-Light-Turn-Singnal-Indicators-Brake-Stop-Lamps/32675181311.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.28.n47Ul9&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_3_100 57_10056_10065_10068_10055_10054_10069_10059_10058 _10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_1 0050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=d50fac54-4734-49e9-985c-7948d35e231b

This for the brake light switch:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-10x1-25mm-Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Brake-Clutch-Pressure-Callipers-Cylinder-Pump-Light-Switch-Banjo-Bolt-Kart/32637228499.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.108.XPIC9Q&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_3_100 57_10056_10065_10068_10055_10054_10069_10059_10058 _10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_1 0050_10051,searchweb201603_7&btsid=7e0c653c-10ca-4fe4-897d-4cfc20a1ab89


Left to find:
Mirrors, headlight switch, horn, bike speedometer

[Brainflex]

Have you asked at your VTNZ if it is able to be registered? And how much it will cost? You need to talk to them as you may be wasting your time and money if you fit the bits listed and expect it to get a WoF n plate.

[george formby]

These (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/kawasaki_kdx200sr%2090.htm) are like hens teeth, another Japanese home market bike. But it may help in your quest for bits and bobs.

[scott411]

These (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/kawasaki_kdx200sr%2090.htm) are like hens teeth, another Japanese home market bike. But it may help in your quest for bits and bobs.

there was a very few imported into NZ new, like less than 10, as they were never popular,

as said above, look into if you can register it, its not that easy, i am not even sure it can be done,

[george formby]

there was a very few imported into NZ new, like less than 10, as they were never popular,

as said above, look into if you can register it, its not that easy, i am not even sure it can be done,

Shame, they go like cut cats.

[scott411]

Shame, they go like cut cats.

not compared to the off road one, but the oil injection was liked by some, no mixing gas,

[F5 Dave]

Its all down to tyres. A KDX is well useful in the dirt but you want real sharp proper knoblies to go anywhere in confidence. Fun.

Riding with these tyres on the road roots them in short order and they are super skittish on tarmac. Not fun. Putting road friendly tyres on the KDX means you get crap off road performance. Meagre fun.

[Hads]

Its all down to tyres. A KDX is well useful in the dirt but you want real sharp proper knoblies to go anywhere in confidence. Fun.

Riding with these tyres on the road roots them in short order and they are super skittish on tarmac. Not fun. Putting road friendly tyres on the KDX means you get crap off road performance. Meagre fun.

I rode a KLX250s with 20% road 80% offroad tyres, basically road legal nobblies. They were fine on the road, I was doing about 100km a day on the road with them. I got about 7000km out of them, could have had more but their off road performance was quite hindered.

[Hads]

I rang Jeremy at the VTNZ at Jipco road in CHCH, apparently whether you can road legal a bike comes down to whether it was intended for the road. Basically if it is a road legal VIN then the frame has gone through the required tests for road certification. Apparently the KDX 200 was in some cases, despite them being a different model.

He gets people bringing in KTM's that have road kits installed that get failed because the VIN isn't a road legal one, depsite everything else being in place. To get a frame road legal you have to pull the bike completely apart and get it tested in a special press, something VTNZ won't do.

Jeremy has offered to check the VIN from my KDX to see if it is able to be registered.

[Hads]

I have found this: http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/motorcycles

That gives a full detail on what they will check for.

Also in searching, I'm now confused, the VIN is Gobble de goop.So I may have been sold a 1987 with a 01 kit on it... being told it was an 01. But what really confuses me is the 200H bit, that model doesn't match what was being produced at the time.

[nzspokes]

87 and 01 were completely different. 01 is and H and will have the perimeter frame. Post a pic and I can tell you.

[nzspokes]

Yes thats an H.

Chuck some KX forks on it, worth doing.

[Hads]

I wonder then why the frame number doesn't match convention, as the H after the 200H represents the year, and that letter represents 1987.

[Hads]

Frame is all good for the raod.

So some extra pieces of info:

All lights need to be E marked, including one that illuminates number plate
Exhaust needs to be quieter than 92 dB
Bycycle speedo would be fine, GPS wouldn't.

I'll update this thread with the bits I find and work out a total cost for future intrepid people.

[george formby]

Frame is all good for the raod.

So some extra pieces of info:

All lights need to be E marked, including one that illuminates number plate
Exhaust needs to be quieter than 92 dB
Bycycle speedo would be fine, GPS wouldn't.

I'll update this thread with the bits I find and work out a total cost for future intrepid people.

Cheers. I will be trying the same at some point. The bike has all the road gear on it so will check for the E mark.

[Coyote]

I'll update this thread with the bits I find and work out a total cost for future intrepid people.
Excellent. Real keen to see that.

My impression is it's worth getting something already in the system as to get something road legal is painfully difficult.

[Hads]

Excellent. Real keen to see that.

My impression is it's worth getting something already in the system as to get something road legal is painfully difficult.

Jeremy at Jipco Rd VTNZ is very helpful, there is a bit of documentation to complete though too.

E.g Norjo's has to do a Date Declaration on the bike once it is all put together., plus there has be some documentation around the original import.

[biggo]

Frame is all good for the raod.

So some extra pieces of info:

All lights need to be E marked, including one that illuminates number plate
Exhaust needs to be quieter than 92 dB
Bycycle speedo would be fine, GPS wouldn't.

I'll update this thread with the bits I find and work out a total cost for future intrepid people.

Only bike,s manufactured after Jan 1st 2006 need an "E" or standard mark on lights except indicators I think they are from 1998 prior to this only need to meed condition and performance requirements.

[Hads]

Only bike,s manufactured after Jan 1st 2006 need an "E" or standard mark on lights except indicators I think they are from 1998 prior to this only need to meed condition and performance requirements.

I think unfortunately because it is aftermarket parts they need to be certified.

[biggo]

I think unfortunately because it is aftermarket parts they need to be certified.

Unfortunately most entry certifiers are trained mainly on cars not motorcycles as motorcycles are a very small percentage of the market.

Link to regs for number plate lights as an example look at tab "summary of legislation" motorcycles are class LC

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/i-and-c/lighting/registration-plate-lamps

Cheers Phil

[Hads]

Unfortunately most entry certifiers are trained mainly on cars not motorcycles as motorcycles are a very small percentage of the market.

Link to regs for number plate lights as an example look at tab "summary of legislation" motorcycles are class LC

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/i-and-c/lighting/registration-plate-lamps

Cheers Phil

Yep, just confirmed with tester at VTNZ, you are right. Still have to watch the illumination angles.

[gwynfryn]

I doubt you will get a kdx200 h series on the road, as said look out for a sr as there are a few around.
I guess if you through enough money at it it may be possible, you will need also need to do some welding, tabs to attach chain guard, rear brake light switch etc.
I am surprised that vtnz has said that the frame vin supports road legal model. Good luck but i'd quit while you're ahead!

[Hads]

I have now ordered all the lights and switches 'hopefully' from Ali Express. Still need to find a Bicycle computer or Speedometer. It seems Bicycle computers often only go up to 99km/h....

[nzspokes]

I have now ordered all the lights and switches 'hopefully' from Ali Express. Still need to find a Bicycle computer or Speedometer. It seems Bicycle computers often only go up to 99km/h....

These go to 199. http://www.bikebarn.co.nz/echowell-u10-wireless-10-function-computer.html

[Hads]

These go to 199. http://www.bikebarn.co.nz/echowell-u10-wireless-10-function-computer.html

Unfortunately no back light. I have found this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Motorcycle-Speedometer-Odometer-Gauge-ATV-Bike-Scooter-Backlit-Dual-Speed-meter-with-LED-Indicator-DC/32593170402.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.44.yidYti

How would I get it to receive the speed from the front wheel?

[george formby]

Unfortunately no back light. I have found this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Motorcycle-Speedometer-Odometer-Gauge-ATV-Bike-Scooter-Backlit-Dual-Speed-meter-with-LED-Indicator-DC/32593170402.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.44.yidYti

How would I get it to receive the speed from the front wheel?

That's a cable operated speedo. Not obvious at first glance how you would calibrate it to the wheel size, if you have a speedo drive on the hub.

The bike speedos are connected via a wee magnet on the wheel. My Gasgas has the same set up, taking speed from the rear wheel. Trail Tech may be the brand and it's a good bit of kit. More functions than you shake a stick at, and a backlight.

I just had a look at their website. Blingtastic! http://www.trailtech.net/

[Hads]

That's a cable operated speedo. Not obvious at first glance how you would calibrate it to the wheel size, if you have a speedo drive on the hub.

The bike speedos are connected via a wee magnet on the wheel. My Gasgas has the same set up, taking speed from the rear wheel. Trail Tech may be the brand and it's a good bit of kit. More functions than you shake a stick at, and a backlight.

From what I can see I think there is a speedo drive on the front wheel. Question is are all the cables the same? I suspect not.

[george formby]

From what I can see I think there is a speedo drive on the front wheel. Question is are all the cables the same? I suspect not.

Length would be the biggest issue IMHO. An easy fix.

[tlronny]

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/acewell-1550t-speedometer-computer.asp
Put something similar on a DRZ400M recently - worked a treat and looked better than the stock unit.
Went thru an australian EBay site - cost was around the $200 mark. Just an idea...

[Hads]

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/acewell-1550t-speedometer-computer.asp
Put something similar on a DRZ400M recently - worked a treat and looked better than the stock unit...

Thanks, I ended up ordering a $10 bike speedo, as if it doesn't work I have only lost $10. Apparently speedo's don't have to read above 100, so ti should be all good.

I didn't want to risk getting the wrong cable for the speedo.

[Hads]

What would you do for gearing? I tested it and the bike can do roughly 110, but that is of course going flat out, would it be a good idea to go up a tooth or two on the front?

[tlronny]

I would say definately yes to at least 1 tooth prob 2...

[Hads]

I got a decibal meter on my phone and measured the exhaust noise whilst it drove past, it measured at about 90 dB which is just within the limit thankfully. That gives me one less thing to do.

[Hads]

Update:

All the bits have arrived, finally, except the large capacity battery...

I have started fitting the bits on anyhow, I'm going to need ot make a bracket for the bike speedo to get it closer to the wheel.

The Headlight unit went on nicely, but the indicators were white!, I will get some more LED indicators to attach to the forks. Bonus is I now have some low power daytime running lights.
Mirror went well attached to the brake pin, but can't put one on the other side, so will live with 1 mirror.
Taillight will need some clever use of metal pipe to attach to the back securely, rear indicators will then attach to the taillight.
Hydraulic brake switch won't fit, so will fashion something similar to what the Jawa has on the rear brake.
Managed to fit the light switch unit on the handlebar on one side, but the e start, kill switch and lights on / off unit won't fit on the other side, not bothered about this as bike doesn't have an e start anyhow, and will make a simpler switch for the headlight on / off.

I forgot to order an indicator relay! So will probably make one.
Also forgot to order a front brake switch, so will try and source one locally.

So far I'm feeling confident, but have yet to do the hard bit, all the wiring.

[onearmedbandit]

I have front brake switches for sale, $9 plus courier ($3).

[Hads]

I have front brake switches for sale, $9 plus courier ($3).

Cool, could you pm me your details, and I can arrange payment?

[onearmedbandit]

Cool, could you pm me your details, and I can arrange payment?

PM sent. :)

[Hads]

Based off advice from onearmedbandit, I am planning on putting the magnet in the front disk for the bicycle speedometer, would heat be a problem here? I was thinking of glueing it in with a silicon based glue so it can handle higher temperatures without losing strength.

[onearmedbandit]

The sensor on my unit managed to pick up on the bolts securing the disc to the carrier so I didn't need to attach a magnet, maybe your sensor can do the same? The switch fit your needs?

[Hads]

The sensor on my unit managed to pick up on the bolts securing the disc to the carrier so I didn't need to attach a magnet, maybe your sensor can do the same? The switch fit your needs?

In the end, no, I'm going to use the hydraulic switch I had intended for the rear, less welding, and the lever isn't that well set up for the switch.

For the rear I have got a switch with a spring attached which the brake pedal should pull.

I'll try that out and see if it can pick up the bolts, more accurate speed then too.

[Hads]

If all goes to plan taking it to VTNZ tomorrow, I will post a run down on expenses and what what worked and what didn't later.

[george formby]

Based off advice from onearmedbandit, I am planning on putting the magnet in the front disk for the bicycle speedometer, would heat be a problem here? I was thinking of glueing it in with a silicon based glue so it can handle higher temperatures without losing strength.

Dunno what the manufacturers use to attach the magnets but I recently set the rear disc of my gasgas on fire, the wee speedo magnet is glued to a bracket, bolted onto the disc and came adrift in the inferno. Fortunately it stuck itself to the disc. I would be interested to know what glue you have used. I was just going to stick it back on with some epoxy.

[Hads]

Dunno what the manufacturers use to attach the magnets but I recently set the rear disc of my gasgas on fire, the wee speedo magnet is glued to a bracket, bolted onto the disc and came adrift in the inferno. Fortunately it stuck itself to the disc. I would be interested to know what glue you have used. I was just going to stick it back on with some epoxy.

I'm using silicon glue, hopefully works.

[Hads]

So an update, got the bike back from Norjo's and took it straight to VTNZ in Lichfield St, Ian had a good close look at it with me, and reckoned it was fine for a warrant. So we started filling out the required stuff on the computer and got it past the point of registration but then got to the point of giving it a warrant and had the error, no PDI (pre delivery inspection). So I rang Norjo's they stated they can't do it as it is only for new bikes in their opinion.
I next rang Kawasaki NZ and had a good chat to Wayne, he thought it wasn't possible either to get a PDI done, and told me why my bike was in the NZTA system to begin with is because back in the 2000's the police asked that all bikes, including off road bikes be entered regardless of whether they needed to go on the road or not, but that didn't require a PDI. Wayne mentioned that they had huge trouble getting the KLX400's registered even though they were identical to the DRZ400's in parts due to no PDI upon coming into the country. He had never heard of anyone attempting to register a KDX 200 before. He suggested trying to get a Low Volume Certificate which are often used for custom built cars, probably pricey.
Next I rang the NZTA to see if I could waive the PDI requirement for the motorbike based off it being in a warrantable state which is probably just as good as a PDI, after a long wait the answer was no, I would need a PDI and apparently authorised resellers should be able to get one for used bikes!
Ian then suggested I try Traction Motorcycles, at this point VTNZ was closing so I took the bike round there, they gave it a PDI easy before they closed up and now I'm just waiting for VTNZ to open tomorrow and hopefully (assuming no more hiccups) I will actually get a registration for the bike! I think I will let Wayne know at Kawasaki, he seemed very interested in what I was up to.
I will update this thread with where I got to tomorrow if I have time, and may even create a thread on the steps required to get an offroad bike on the road.
Apparently you can ring up the NZTA to check if a PDI has been done for the VIN, this should save you lots of hassle if it has been done, and not require finding a mechanic who is willing to do one for you.

[Hads]

Success, bike now has a number plate, now any hints on how to straighten handlebars, it seems whilst it was on the trailer it put them out of kilter. Also need to figure out the mirror gap not big enough for hands with gloves on.

[Askor]

Success, bike now has a number plate, now any hints on how to straighten handlebars, it seems whilst it was on the trailer it put them out of kilter. Also need to figure out the mirror gap not big enough for hands with gloves on.

Awesome news! Have fun smoking out cars at the lights. Best to strap onto tripleclamps not handlebars for trailer, try sticking some steel stock in the open end of the bent side and heave.

[mattnzl]

Success, bike now has a number plate, now any hints on how to straighten handlebars, it seems whilst it was on the trailer it put them out of kilter. Also need to figure out the mirror gap not big enough for hands with gloves on.

Wow! I honestly thought at the beginning of this thread that you would have no chance of success. Well done for persevering with it - a quick guide of the steps (specially the PDI part) would be great.

[nzspokes]

Nice. :Punk:

[Hads]

A picture of plate on bike, blanked out :)

https://ln3rig.by3301.livefilestore.com/y3m59f0siVi7gQI7tA6dNFmp33PgQ10LQXoDdGIqi9rKwNMqiF TD7qzeP9fRYRKzKeggQwYX9DHpTOkeK2PBshXZOMYlpk1XAQAf OQNPZGjzp54XiezBUlJPwvxd5S2w85HKef3wgpFabntzvLHWoz SFyyF5Ty3BPeDODgylFsvnVQ?width=3264&height=1840&cropmode=none

[mossy1200]

The sensor on my unit managed to pick up on the bolts securing the disc to the carrier so I didn't need to attach a magnet, maybe your sensor can do the same? The switch fit your needs?

When I did the bmw I put a koso speedo unit on but the magnets were not strong enough because the disc mount bolts on the bmw went all the way through the wheel to hold both discs on in a nut and bolt arrangement and the magnet was trying to magnetize the whole bolt. i ordered some super strength magnets and sleeved them with heat shrink to isolate them from the bolt and set them in with chemset. They are set into the hex head.

I still have more magnets if anyone needs some.