XR200 only starts after a carb clean

[Ecstatic]

Hi there,

My XR200 wouldn't start and so I gave the carb a clean and boom started fine over and over again, then left it a few hours and it wouldn't start again, so went through the same process and then she fired up again fine, but then in the morning again wouldn't start! Why does the carb need to keep being opened up and cleaned up or it won't start?

Thanks

[nzspokes]

Pull the plug and see if it is wet.

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[Ecstatic]

Pull the plug and see if it is wet.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

Plug isn't wet

[twinfin]

Air filter clean? Fuel tank clean with fresh fuel? Could be be suckin crap up from somewhere and blocking je:scratch:ts.

[Drew]

Prolly need to get in the fuel delivery passage above the needle.

Had something similar.

I used a straightenew out paper clip to dig out the concrete like crap in there.

[awayatc]

if you have one tiny drop of water on top of fuel in carb it wont start......

so maybe you have got some water in tank?

next time before taking of the carb , drain bowl into glass jar first and have a looksee

[Ecstatic]

Sounds like everyone is eluding to a fuel problem then? I'll try give the tank a clean out and check the fuel line, it has a little fuel filter thing on the fuel line from tank to carby, should I replace this? Also how do you guys usually get all the stuff out of the bottom of a tank? last time I found it very hard to get every last bit out.

[Ecstatic]

Fuel filter looks like this

324911

[swarfie]

Sounds like everyone is eluding to a fuel problem then? I'll try give the tank a clean out and check the fuel line, it has a little fuel filter thing on the fuel line from tank to carby, should I replace this? Also how do you guys usually get all the stuff out of the bottom of a tank? last time I found it very hard to get every last bit out.

Replace the filter, it's probably blocked up and they're not that expensive. Chuck a hand full of small nuts and bolts in the tank with a bit of kero or fuel and give it a good shake around. That'll knock any shit stuck to the walls/bottom off and then flush out with fresh fuel. Job done. you're welcome:wings:

[Ecstatic]

Replace the filter, it's probably blocked up and they're not that expensive. Chuck a hand full of small nuts and bolts in the tank with a bit of kero or fuel and give it a good shake around. That'll knock any shit stuck to the walls/bottom off and then flush out with fresh fuel. Job done. you're welcome:wings:

Thanks so much!

[Ecstatic]

The fuel clean helped for a while but it's gone bad again now, still extremely hard to start, eventually it will start, but that's after trying multiple spark plugs, the plugs are nice and wet after heaps of kicks

[hayd3n]

The fuel clean helped for a while but it's gone bad again now, still extremely hard to start, eventually it will start, but that's after trying multiple spark plugs, the plugs are nice and wet after heaps of kicks

do you turn the fuel tap off every time its not in use?

[Ecstatic]

do you turn the fuel tap off every time its not in use?

No?!?! I was told it didn't matter?

[OddDuck]

Right... get a piece of clear hose, connect it to the carb drain, bend it upwards and open the drain. That'll give you a look at what the fuel level in the carb is. Possibly your floats have gone bad and your bike is running super rich as a result. Cleaning the carbs might give the floats a chance to dry out and work properly again for a while.

[Ecstatic]

so what am I looking for with the clear tube test? A little confused how this will fix something?

[Drew]

so what am I looking for with the clear tube test? A little confused how this will fix something?

It won't fix anything. It'll tell you the fuel level. That way you can eliminate that as the problem, or continue searching for why it's too high.

[Ecstatic]

Okay this bike is starting to really piss me off, even after a carb clean it is still not running and starting well, I'm having To try multiple plugs To finally get it to kick over, once started it will only just idle when the screw is all the way in if you have the idle screw out even slightly it will die, before it would be so high on rpm if the screw was fully in, the air mixture screw I set at 1 1/8 but tried changing what the mixture screw was at but it still didn't seem to help much, the bike is fouling plugs terribly but I have moved the clip position 2 notches to try make it more lean. Also sometimes when it starts up it's like there's not much actual power when using the throttle but if you let it warm up and rev it out a bit it will come right again, but that's only if your lucky enough to get it started after 4 different plugs, 100 kicks and with the idle screw at max! What on earth is going on!

[OddDuck]

Have you tried running that fuel level test yet? The one with the clear hose bent upwards like a U, connected to the opened drain?

Everything you're saying suggests that it's running super rich. That'll happen if your floats aren't floating properly and sealing the needle valve at the right time. The U-tube test won't fix that but it will confirm it, then you know which part to replace.

A few more things, less likely than the floats... go through the air inlet system and check for blockages, take it completely to bits if you have to. Also check for vacuum leaks, as shown by dirt tracks and flattened O-rings / crushed rubber boots. Vacuum leaks will really screw things up at idle / on startup. It'll tend to be a lean condition and it'll fluctuate unpredictably too. This can happen independently of float troubles and on an old bike it's quite likely to be going on.

Crushed rubber is fucked rubber. Get new rubber before reassembling.

Last note, from someone who's been there way too many times already: don't get angry. When you get angry, your patience, observance, discipline etc all disappear and it's rip shit and bust time instead. It's great if you're driving fence posts but not so flash if you're trying to solve something technical.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[spanner spinner]

worked on way to many of these carbs, go to your local honda dealer and buy parts 3 and 2 on the attached parts diagram http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr200r-1991-m-canada_model6706/partslist/E__1501.html#results
fit these and set the float height to the correct height (or get some who knows how if you don't know how to) and unless some butcher has stuffed the carb completely this should fix the starting and over rich problems.

[Ecstatic]

I put clear tube in and fuel came out and up the tube, what am I actually looking for with this test??

[Akzle]

I put clear tube in and fuel came out and up the tube, what am I actually looking for with this test??
what are you looking for?
certainly not a thread started on this site not a month ago with the exact same problem, and likely the same fix.
certainly not googluh results that would tell you.

my guess is a handout.

would you like some good KBer to come to your house and fix your bike for free? maybe mow the lawns while they're there?

[Ecstatic]

I apologise for being annoying I just really wanted it running for the long weekend, here's a video that might help someone tell me whether there's any quick fix I can do without getting parts for the weekend. It's smoking heaps and this is with the idle screw maxed out

https://youtu.be/BhXNO3mz5D4

[Ecstatic]

Just before getting it starting and recording this video I pulled the carb apart and cleaned everything again and checked float height as well, float height was at about 13mm

[jasonu]

Have you left the choke on???

[Akzle]

It's smoking heaps and this is with the idle screw maxed out

not what they were designed for.

[OddDuck]

I put clear tube in and fuel came out and up the tube, what am I actually looking for with this test??

You're looking for the fuel level in the bowl of the carburettor, with it in place on the bike. The point of this test is that you can check what's happening with the floats / needle valves etc while everything's assembled. It should be measureable, check the diagram of how to measure float height in your workshop manual.

If it just keeps on rising, you've got rooted needle valves or floats or both.

[nzspokes]

worked on way to many of these carbs, go to your local honda dealer and buy parts 3 and 2 on the attached parts diagram http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xr200r-1991-m-canada_model6706/partslist/E__1501.html#results
fit these and set the float height to the correct height (or get some who knows how if you don't know how to) and unless some butcher has stuffed the carb completely this should fix the starting and over rich problems.

Listen to this.

[Ecstatic]

An update of where I'm at with this and would love to get some more ideas on what to try.

I have now rebuilt the carb, all jets and needles replaced. Running a lot smoother when its going now and starting a lot easier too.

But I am still having the same issue with the idle, the idle screw has to be turned all the way to tight to hold idle at all.

I sprayed engine start around the intake to try see if there's a vacuum leak but there didn't seem to be any noticeable difference in idle speed.

The only thing left that I could think is valve clearance maybe?

[Drew]

Do a compression test.

[Ecstatic]

Compression is at 180psi

[nzspokes]

Go up a size in idle jet.

[flashg]

Long shot but.
My son had a similar problem (erratic idle and stalling) on his 2003 ktm 450. Resetting the tappets was the answer. Happily idles any time now.