Log in

View Full Version : VIN Check



Gubb
21st December 2016, 17:27
I've been looking for a project for a wee while now, something has popped up on TardMe which looks quite attractive to me (possibly me biting off way more than I can chew - is replacing a Head Gasket completely outside the realm of possibility for an average DIYer?) as i've always wanted to give the dirt thing a crack.

Anyway, I've asked for the VIN to do a quick check just to make sure it's not stolen. The seller seems pretty honest, but I thought i'd check just to cover my butt. Problem is the frame has been painted at some point, and impossible to read. I believe it's supposed to be 17 digits, but I can't even make that out.

Is there any other way I can check its history?
327081

Gubb
21st December 2016, 22:27
Head Gaskets are easy to replace but you do need to know what torque setting to tighten the bolts with and use a good quality torque wrench to do it with. If you have never used a torque wrench before you can practise using a nut and bolt of the same size in a vise. Torque wrenches can have 2 different scales on them so make sure you set it for the correct one.
I've found a 360 page service manual in pdf format with all the torque settings listed which will no doubt come in handy. Any excuse to buy a new tool isn't bad either....

Big Dog
21st December 2016, 23:34
A bit of paper, a soft pencil.
Paper over numbers, run lightly with pencil.
Check number that shows.
Alternatively look up the engine number.


Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

Big Dog
21st December 2016, 23:37
Ps if you can't look up the engine number on your source go to a service outlet for your marquee and ask them, at the very least they should be able to tell you all but the last 4 or 5 characters of the production run the engine went into.

Sent from Tapatalk. DYAC

awayatc
22nd December 2016, 02:26
Headgasket first thing that goes when overheating usually....
But is not necessarily the only thing.
IF badly heated or ran after HG failure you can have a cracked or distorted head,or even a cracked distorted cylinder....
Also what causedan failure?
All sorts of other things can cause trouble if bike has been ridden after HG failure.

Beware...

If notging else also to hardness testing and planing of head.....

awayatc
22nd December 2016, 02:27
Headgasket first thing that goes when overheating usually....
But is not necessarily the only thing.
IF badly heated or ran after HG failure you can have a cracked or distorted head,or even a cracked distorted cylinder....
Also what caused HG failure?
All sorts of other things can cause trouble if bike has been ridden after HG failure.

Beware...

If nothing else also to hardness testing and planing of head.....

T.W.R
22nd December 2016, 06:33
You're looking at that YZF426 ?
20 odd hrs on a rebuild and its blown the head gasket isn't unusual, we used to do a piston & rings @ 30hrs (actually got one from a 426 sitting in the shed salvaged from a job).
You'd be spending a couple of hundred by the time you do the job so there is a bit of profit to be made.
The bikes probably been through a few hands by now so chasing the chassis # would be hardwork

Gubb
22nd December 2016, 06:55
You're looking at that YZF426 ?
20 odd hrs on a rebuild and its blown the head gasket isn't unusual, we used to do a piston & rings @ 30hrs (actually got one from a 426 sitting in the shed salvaged from a job).
You'd be spending a couple of hundred by the time you do the job so there is a bit of profit to be made.
The bikes probably been through a few hands by now so chasing the chassis # would be hardwork
That's the one. For $600 I figure it's a smallish gamble. Hopefully I'll learn a shit load by pulling it apart, and end up with an intro to dirt, not really interested in flicking it on for profit, unless it's a shocking bike to learn on.

jellywrestler
22nd December 2016, 08:16
I've found a 360 page service manual in pdf format with all the torque settings listed which will no doubt come in handy. Any excuse to buy a new tool isn't bad either....

i'm putting the head on this weekend, will need two different torque wrenches. one for the eight mm bolts and one for the sixes.

T.W.R
22nd December 2016, 09:29
If buying a torque wrench buy one where the torque setting of the cylinder head is in the centre of its range as it will be more accurate than if you buy one with the torque setting at the bottom. I have 3 for this reason.

:wacko: jesus! It gets worse :oi-grr: 3 wrenches so things can be fucked left, right, & centre :pinch:

Akzle
22nd December 2016, 14:59
i'm putting the head on this weekend, will need two different torque wrenches. one for the eight mm bolts and one for the sixes.

get one in every denomination. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" and it should cover you for most automotive shit.

if they dont come with a calibration cert, pick another brand.

caspernz
22nd December 2016, 15:18
If buying a torque wrench buy one where the torque setting of the cylinder head is in the centre of its range as it will be more accurate than if you buy one with the torque setting at the bottom. I have 3 for this reason.

Wow, this bit of logic I agree with! Never thought I'd see the day :laugh::innocent:

Gubb
22nd December 2016, 18:44
Cheers peeps.

I brought the bike home. Pics to come after Xmas (TM Link is here while it lasts http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1226305369 - Think I did alright for $600)
I've just organised a full Gasket kit from TSS who had one they mistakenly ordered going out super cheap, and i'll see if theres any reputable wrenches in the Holiday sales.

Might have to write a rebuild thread as I go.... Looking forward to the impending frustration now.