brake bleeding tools

[HenryDorsetCase]

So I hate fucking brake fluid. And I really dislike bleeding brakes. If I am pumping anything till fluid comes out the end, well, lets just say it ain't gonna be a brake lever.....

Has anyone used any of the tools that are around that promise to make the job of changing out the brake fluid on your bike "quick, easy, and mess free"?

I was in RIPCO and saw what amounted to a large syringe ($80 thank you) on offer, and I see in their latest throwaway they have a slightly more sophisticated setup with a pump and a reservoir on spesh for $80.

I'd like to be able to put something on the caliper bleed nipple, apply a vacuum to it, and draw the old fluid out (while topping up with new fluid at the reservoir obvs.

Need to do the NC30 first and for peace of mind will do the Street Trip after that.

Your thoughts callers?

[Grumph]

Haven't seen their circular but the best buy I've made was a "Mityvac" kit.
Spelling may be wrong but if that's what the pump kit is, $80's a good price.


Oh - nothing's totally mess free...

[OddDuck]

Yep, I hate the caliper bleed stuff as well. I've tried vacuum via syringe, I ended up just sucking air into the bleed nipple via the threads. Unless the nipple's sealed against this or you maintain a high vacuum and constant flow, I don't think this method will work. Haven't tried or even seen a Mityvac yet though, will look for one - thanks Grumph.

What's worked for me over the last few years is one of those dinky little bleed bottles with the magnet on the side and the flexible hose. Connect bottle to bleed nipple, this can be started with the bottle empty if this is done right. Apply pressure to lever - crack the bleed nipple just enough to get flow - just before the lever bottoms out, tweak the nipple closed. Always maintain positive pressure, never let the lever go with the bleed nipple loosened. Repeat a few times and then top up the reservoir. Repeat as needed to change the fluid. This will work well at removing old fluid in the brake lines and bubbles that have collected in the caliper but I don't think it'll shift bubbles higher up.

If the above doesn't work then I pull calipers and master cylinders off their mountings, go to angles they normally never get to while on the bike, and tap / shake / etc to help bubbles go up. The Brembo master reservoirs I'm used to will allow bubbles to escape with the lever fully out, but for that to happen, it has to be at 45 degrees, with bubbles right there in the master piston's cylinder. There'll be a tiny port visible at the base of the reservoir, where it sucks fresh fluid in or lets air escape. A little bit of using the lever, with the reservoir at this angle, will force bubbles out of the system. Only do the handlebar end skyward thing with the reservoir lid on, of course... very easy to pour fluid over things by mistake with this method if you leave the lid off to save time.

Grumph - what are you thoughts on this? Does the Mityvac save doing all of this?

Last recommendation when doing any brake bleed work - whip down to Briscoes or the Warehouse, get cheap towels, lay these all over the tank and the bike's bodywork. Cover everything. It's just so damn easy to spill brake fluid onto paintwork or fairings.

[jellywrestler]

i use an old pump off a commercial dishwasher, designed to feed the dishwashing liquid into them, great for drawing that old shit out and the new in.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Here is a pic of the Repco kit. the Mityvac kit looks to be one that requires connection to a compressor. (Which I have so no drama).


Mityvac is $412 from fishpond

http://www.fishpond.co.nz/Homeware/MityvAC-MV6838-Master-Brake-Bleeder-Kit/0646541002129

[Black Knight]

I use those sucky bulb things that are on outboard motor fuel tanks,connect with hose to inlet side and outlet side via a hose to a bottle.Press the bulb to suck fluid out,keep topping up the res-it has an inbuilt one way valve so works good for me. About $20 IIR.

[Grumph]

The Mityvac kit I have is a bit more flash than the Repco one. Hand pump with gauge, can be vacuum or pressure pump. Comes with rather more bits too.

Had it about 10 years now, can't remember where i bought it. A fair amount of what i do involves bleeding from empty and the draw through vacuum pump makes that so much quicker...
No the mityvac doesn't always save all of the buggering about - but you can quickly get it to the point where a night with a rubber band on the brake lever will get the last bit of sponge out. Working solo it's much easier.

[husaberg]

So I hate fucking brake fluid. And I really dislike bleeding brakes. If I am pumping anything till fluid comes out the end, well, lets just say it ain't gonna be a brake lever.....

Has anyone used any of the tools that are around that promise to make the job of changing out the brake fluid on your bike "quick, easy, and mess free"?

I was in RIPCO and saw what amounted to a large syringe ($80 thank you) on offer, and I see in their latest throwaway they have a slightly more sophisticated setup with a pump and a reservoir on spesh for $80.



The factory Husaberg set up is a syringe and hose you bleed them by pushing the air back up to the MC ie the way it wants to actually go anyway (bubbles rise)
$80 tat repco they are taking the piss

Trot down to a real vet practice (not your town cat and dog only crap)
Ask for one of their biggest syringes.
327874
Hand over a couple of bucks

Insert into caliper or make a hose and fitting Rolls Royce edition)
this is what the factory berg set up looks like
327875
Bobs your uncle

Actually that pic is here $11
http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/brake-clutch-bleeding-tool-nac-tools

[HenryDorsetCase]

The factory Husaberg set up is a syringe and hose you bleed them by pushing the air back up to the MC ie the way it wants to actually go anyway (bubbles rise)
$80 tat repco they are taking the piss

Trot down to a real vet practice (not your town cat and dog only crap)
Ask for one of their biggest syringes.
327874
Hand over a couple of bucks

Insert into caliper or make a hose and fitting Rolls Royce edition)
this is what the factory berg set up looks like
327875
Bobs your uncle

Actually that pic is here $11
http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/brake-clutch-bleeding-tool-nac-tools

I have never done it backwards like that. For $11 plus a fiver for courier I ordered one of those. Thanks for the link!

[husaberg]

I have never done it backwards like that. For $11 plus a fiver for courier I ordered one of those. Thanks for the link!

The beauty of the syringe is you can do it either direction or a combintions of both, which i have found is fastest. remember if you are doing backbleeding to tap the hoses to encouarge the air tomove to the top.
It's the easiest way of doing it i have used, the only way i have found that works on KTM50's.
I would still reconmend a trip to the vets for larger syringe though. The one in the pics is only 40ml

[F5 Dave]

Trying to get the rubber internal seal on end of syringe ram not to slip off is a drag once brake fluid swels them. Better design is the o-ring type but haven't seen a big one.


I just bought that Repco one as i got a chrissy voucher that got me partway there so figured buy something you wouldnt normally.

Actually it works but its not magic. For empty system it was a whole lot quicker and that was the main desire. Yes it pulls bubbles from the threads, maybe if I only cracked it a bit . . .

You still need to pump lever a little at the end to move the pistons close and last air out whilst manipulating the nipple open and closed. Whether the suction aids to a better bleed I can't say but would be worth it for difficult setups.

Much of the tube I seem to find locally slips off the nipple (some of this stuff is just odd to write) so I've cable tied it. The stuff in the Repco kit seems to fit well so far.

Longer nipples would help. But a mate gave me some tube capiters (I don't want to look up the right spelling in case I get emotionally scared) but the fitting with a slight trim holds fast onto nipples. Vicar.

So yes I'd mildly recommend the Repco system. Its not rubbish and it is useable. But its not a panacea to traditional lever manipulation.

[pete376403]

This would be the go if there was a cap that fitted motorcycle master cylinders. I used a similar system years go (pretty sure it was a Girling product) on Hillman Hunters and Avengers as all Girling master cylinders (brake and clutch) used the same size screw on cap.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MVP6800/PRESSURE-BRAKE-BLEEDING-SYSTEM/

Wonder if one could be made using a weedsprayer pump??

[F5 Dave]

Why on earth would you want to stop a Hillman violently interfacing with a solid object?
If fire could be introduced simultaneously that would be beneficial.

[mossy1200]

I got a little kit from Supercheap. Works great.


http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Toledo-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-310261/SPO1352876
$9.00

[husaberg]

Trying to get the rubber internal seal on end of syringe ram not to slip off is a drag once brake fluid swels them. Better design is the o-ring type but haven't seen a big one.

Syringes are dirt cheap and disposable.
The rest funy quite funny, Ghost writer?

[husaberg]

So what was the outcome HDC
What did you think of it?

[AllanB]

I've a speedy one way valve set-up you stick on the nipple and open it. Keep it open as it won't back flow. Then start pumping.


Works well. Done bikes and the car.

Saves opening and closing the nipple shit-loads.


It did take some time to fill and pressure the Hornet when I put braided SS lines on it.


Every notices most European bikes come stock with SS brake and clutch lines.



Cool.