I wish I could find the prick

[HenryDorsetCase]

that put the last set of wheelbearings in this NC30 rim. They are so tight that the spacer won't drop down so I can get the cunting things out.

currently soaking in CRC. step 2 is heat. Step 3 is a bigger hammer. GAH THIS SHOULD HAVE TAKEN TEN FUCKING MINUTES

[neels]

I am constantly swearing at the last fuckwit that worked on the thing that won't come to bits like it should because they made a ham fisted pigs arse of the job.

I hate having to get the big hammer or angle grinder out to take something apart, when it shouldn't be that hard. In fact I've just lost interest in finishing something tonight because it will require one of the above, so fuck it I'll give up and leave it for tomorrow.

[Akzle]

that put the last set of wheelbearings in this NC30 rim. They are so tight that the spacer won't drop down so I can get the cunting things out.

are they the wrong size?

are they proper-fucked?

regrease them and move on with your life.

[HenryDorsetCase]

are they the wrong size?

are they proper-fucked?

regrease them and move on with your life.

The rim has to be bare because it is being chemically stripped maybe crack tested then powder coated.

I am pleased to report GREAT SUCCESS however. Leaving it soaking in CRC sorta did the trick. I also used a pin punch to punch the spacer down about 3mm so I could get at the bearing inner race, then usual story it came apart like it should have. I was worried about ovalising the spacer but it seems OK.

Fun and games though.

[Grumph]

Production tolerances can sometimes add up to make the spacers very tight indeed. Not entirely a bad thing...
Pin punch or similar, sometimes with a bit of heat, and they will move sideways.
More than once, I've had to clean up the spacer bore after a brutal removal job.

[F5 Dave]

Dirtbikes and small axle bikes with wobbly bearings are a joy to change.

Quality road stuff can take quite a bit of convincing to reposition. Ideally you'd somehow lever them both down on opposed sides otherwise you are knocking one side and asking both the bearings to twist or both sides to slide evenly.

Actually I might try that next time. Two screwdrivers of reasonable stiffness. But as Greg sez check and clean up the spacer inside vs the axle.

[OddDuck]

that put the last set of wheelbearings in this NC30 rim. They are so tight that the spacer won't drop down so I can get the cunting things out.

currently soaking in CRC. step 2 is heat. Step 3 is a bigger hammer. GAH THIS SHOULD HAVE TAKEN TEN FUCKING MINUTES

Slide pull hammer with collets, the collets will go into the inner race of the bearing and lock against the chamfer on the far side without projecting beyond the bearing. No need for the spacer to move.

Edit: Whoops sorry I see you've done it already.

[F5 Dave]

They are not cheap. The set I bought dont work like that and, well I'm not sure what they really are for but I cheaped out thinking they were proper ones.

[buggerit]

Weld something accross the inner race of one bearing and knock out from the other side.

[Grumph]

Weld something accross the inner race of one bearing and knock out from the other side.

Yeah, that's the school of last resort. Works though...

One particular Italian motor has the drive side main bearing in the cases retained by a circlip on the inside - and the crank is a press fit in that side bearing...
How do you get the crank out without breaking the circlip out of the case ?

Answer for general information...

You grind a half moon shape groove in the outer visible race and take the bearing apart, ball by ball. Oh, it's a double row bearing too, so it takes a while...
Then with the crank out, you grind notches on the inner race and crack it off the crank carefully...
You then take the bare case to a good TIG welder and get him to run a ring of weld around the inside of the outer race still left in the case - after removing the damm circlip. When it cools the outer race drops out.

The crank is then polished to be a slide fit in the new bearing....

[HenryDorsetCase]

Slide pull hammer with collets, the collets will go into the inner race of the bearing and lock against the chamfer on the far side without projecting beyond the bearing. No need for the spacer to move.

Edit: Whoops sorry I see you've done it already.

I saw a youtube video with an interesting tool - allegedly a Honduh special tool (so probably $180 like the four prong clutch nut one I bought last time).

Imagine a piece of steel turned in a lathe so that the OD of the rod fits inside the ID of the bearing, and that the step is a bit bigger than the inner race. Now cut a slot across the small end. Insert the plug from the outside, flip the wheel over and put a prybar or big screwdriver or something into the slot and hammer it in place, locking the tool to the inner race. then lift up the wheel clear of the bench and continue hammering till the bearing drops out.

I know a man with a machine shop if I want to get one made, and I like the idea of it pulling evenly on the bearing, but the drawback is that it works on the inner race of the bearing, not the outer.... which is the one I want to actually move. If the bearing breaks apart then you are left with an outer race stuck in the hub i.e. back to square one.

Can't find the video again otherwise I would link it.

Good news is that my local bearing supplier (cash sale no discount) supplied me new bearings this morning and new seals for $35. Ordered from Honda each ones probably $30...

[Grumph]

Big dynabolt will do the same thing. The bearing won't come apart.

[onearmedbandit]

Good news is that my local bearing supplier (cash sale no discount) supplied me new bearings this morning and new seals for $35. Ordered from Honda each ones probably $30...

Yes I remember selling bearings at a Honda dealer. I also remember being told not to sell them to certain customers and instead telling where there they could go to get the same bearing for half the price.

[F5 Dave]

I saw a youtube video with an interesting tool - allegedly a Honduh special tool (so probably $180 like the four prong clutch nut one I bought last time).

Imagine a piece of steel turned in a lathe so that the OD of the rod fits inside the ID of the bearing, and that the step is a bit bigger than the inner race. Now cut a slot across the small end. Insert the plug from the outside, flip the wheel over and put a prybar or big screwdriver or something into the slot and hammer it in place, locking the tool to the inner race. then lift up the wheel clear of the bench and continue hammering till the bearing drops out.

I know a man with a machine shop if I want to get one made, and I like the idea of it pulling evenly on the bearing, but the drawback is that it works on the inner race of the bearing, not the outer.... which is the one I want to actually move. If the bearing breaks apart then you are left with an outer race stuck in the hub i.e. back to square one.

Can't find the video again otherwise I would link it.

Good news is that my local bearing supplier (cash sale no discount) supplied me new bearings this morning and new seals for $35. Ordered from Honda each ones probably $30...
That's pretty much my one. Hasn't been super useful so far.

[OddDuck]

I've got something similar to this (mine's got a broader range of collets but couldn't be bothered wading through pages to find the exact match)

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Toledo-Split-Collet-Extractor-Set-10-Pce-250000/SPO1351563?menuFrom=1021418

Not cheap but made pulling bearings a doddle. It does transmit force through the bearing's rolling elements so will indent races, there's no reusing the bearing after this... haven't had any issues with leaving the outer race behind.