RG125F 1994 (is that a bucket?) issues

[marlow]

Hi guys, I've resorted to cybering all the way over here from Blighty (don't hold that against me) as getting much feedback on any forums based on my bike or country is nigh on impossible. I don't know if people just think I'm so thick that they can't be assed taking me seriously or what, but here's hoping I can get feedback from some 2-stroke racers who know everything!!

Not long rebuilt my whole engine, standard sized replate, new big end and crank trued by PJME (reputable UK company) and so forth. Tons of running issues though, it seems after taking months to fix one, another one instantly arises. It feels as though it's stuff experienced people would have sorted in a day!! Yet here I am a whole year later.

My current issue is a weird cutting-out/spluttery/surging (not sure on the best describing word for it) problem right as max power is coming in, just as powervalve has fully opened around 10,000rpm onwards. Pretty sure the valve is opening as and when it should (altho setting it correctly seems to be another can of worms no one dare talk about :facepalm: ) and I've messed with a few different main jets which has made zero difference. I've tried messing with no air box, half an air box and other altered carburrations, no difference. It feels electrical.

Is there any way I can test the HT lead/coil/CDI and whatever else is involved for faultiness? Or is it a case of having to just replace and hope? Has a brand new spark plug btw :D

[Henk]

Not a bucket but the street stock guys might know.
Usually easiest way is replace and hope. First thing I'd do is try another spark plug, have had new plugs faulty straight from box, after that switch out the plug cap and lead if it unscrews from the coil, froth at point on it gets harder / more expensive unless you can find someone with the same bike that you can steal the parts off to swap them out.

I'm not all that talented a mechanic or a two stroke guy by the way.

[Kickaha]

Pretty sure the valve is opening as and when it should (altho setting it correctly seems to be another can of worms no one dare talk about :facepalm: )

How is it set on those?

Does it work off cables or centrifugal from the crankcase?

[marlow]

Not a bucket but the street stock guys might know.
Usually easiest way is replace and hope. First thing I'd do is try another spark plug, have had new plugs faulty straight from box, after that switch out the plug cap and lead if it unscrews from the coil, froth at point on it gets harder / more expensive unless you can find someone with the same bike that you can steal the parts off to swap them out.

I'm not all that talented a mechanic or a two stroke guy by the way.

Funnily enough it is a brand new sprk plug in there, but the old one before it was fine so I can try that again. There's a few coil/lead/cap set ups on ebay for around £15 at the moment so that at least wouldn't be too expensive.


How is it set on those?

Does it work off cables or centrifugal from the crankcase?

Yh it's a servo/cable system but the Suzuki manual is the absolute worst! No Haynes was ever made for these bikes and it shows.

This is my post from another forum.
https://i.gyazo.com/52dd4ef16c7cf73a422271ce7d26d04c.jpg


Reverting back to this in the manual, and someone made a thread on this before, I just found it today (despite searchinng months ago) and it's been archived and closed.

So those notches 3 aligned with 4 is exactly how my bike appears whilst switch off. Take exhaust off and see that this is the FULLY CLOSED position. The manaul states above, that these marks should align when you have connected the wire test, turned the ignition on then off. When you turn the ignition on with wire connected, it opens the powervalve to FULLY OPEN. I know this becuz whilst in this position the valve will not open any further using a socket and ratchet. Also feeling up exhaust port tells me this. Then, when you turn the ignition off again, the valve stays in the fully open position. So why on earth is the manual stating to align marks 3 and 4 while the valve is fully open?????????

For the record I've revved it to 10k and the valve does appear to open fully, so this seems to confirm it isn't restricted, however I've no idea if it's doing the correct stuff down low and mid. What I do know is the valve stays shut and doesn't move until 8,000rpm, which to me isn't really where mid range starts. The bike pulls decentish from 6 to 7, but has a pretty s***e flat spot and struggles getting from 8-10, and this is where the apparent "blend" point takes place. Incidentally with pulley in the blend position, one blade (I think the brand new one I bought) seems blended, but the other valve I think middle blade slightly protrudes downward into the port, only by a gnat's, but either way, getting your finger hard up against the piston to feel blending is very hard, unless you've the skin sensitiviy of a girl then you can't really feel it accurately. But then I don't know how much play or tolerance is going to make how much difference. When it comes to port timing I thought even 0.01mm is critical?

This s*** is so confusing and still no proper detailed layman's explanations for it anywhere.

[Drew]

Only simple thing I can think of is battery voltage. The power valve operation used to go all over the show on RGVs if the battery was poked or the charging system not working right.

[Asher]

I was thinking of low voltage before I read Drew's comment.
My RGV250 would almost hit a wall at 9k rpm if the battery wasn't fully charged.
I don't think the power valves are the issue but just disconnect the cables and cable tie the Pully in the full open position and take it for a ride and see if it comes into power at 10k rpm like it should

[FastFred]

What I do know is the valve stays shut and doesn't move until 8,000rpm, which to me isn't really where mid range starts. The bike pulls decentish from 6 to 7, but has a pretty s***e flat spot and struggles getting from 8-10,

330460 picture posted upside down ... :crazy:???????

Probably not relevant, but interesting. Dynograph of NSR125 cylinder. Blue line is the valve fully closed, Red is the valve opening progressively to the fully open position.

[marlow]

The battery is literally brand new last week, correct one for the bike I'm pretty sure, 12v etc.

I don't think it's pv issue either but can someone confirm what that manual is saying is wrong? Becuz when you run that test it turns the valve to open position yet it's saying to align the mark furthest left which is the closed marker. As you can see here, there's a second mark to the right, between the cables that this manual mentions nothing about anywhere. It would make sense to me that it's THIS marker that needs to align with the housing notch when it's fully open. As it happens though it can't even get that far when you physically open the valve to maximum by hand so what it's meant to line up with I've no clue. I believe the RGV250 has 3 marks that all align with the notch from closed to blended to open.
https://i.gyazo.com/9ce7b92b28f0979fcb939ec00c62d9bd.png


Still not had a chance to do anymore work as it's doing nothing but piss down over here, literally the wetest coldest spring we've had and that's saying something for this dump!

[jellywrestler]

vent for gas cap blocked or missing, as the thing uses motion lotion it needs air to come into the tank otherwise it can cause a vacuum

[TZ350]

... can someone confirm what that manual is saying is wrong?

Totally agree with you. The manual is obviously wrong. Not the first time for that to happen.

Do the test with the wire to earth so the servo goes to the fully open position and adjust the cables to get the PV blades fully open by looking/feeling up the exhaust.

A small discrepancy between blades is not that important and the closed position is not that important either so long as the blades don't protrude far enough into the exhaust port to catch the piston/ring. Check for that with the test wire out and the PV fully closed by looking up the exhaust and carefully turning the motor over by hand. To make it easier, take the spark plug out, leave the plug in the cap and earth it to protect the CDI.

[marlow]

Thanks for the tips TZ350. I already know the blades are safe as I'm 200 miles run in now on the new engine. But I was told on RGV.co.uk forum that the important part of the pv's is the blend point. I think it's about as close as it can get anyhoo.

Well, major progress made, it was the chuffin spark plug!!!! :killingme:killingme:killingme:wait::nya::nya::bri ck:

Unbelievable, a BRAND NEW spark plug I had in there since engine rebuild, exactly as standard, NGK BR9ES, and the whole time it's been a dud. I swapped it back for the old one that came with the bike and hello rocketship!! No more splutter, screams round to 12 (then hits a brick wall) and even ironed out a few flat spots. How can a brand new plug be a dud? I got it off ebay but still. Over 6 months ago now I can't even trace where it came from.

But sadly bad news. Went out on it tonight still with the 180 MJ but realised to replace the airbox lid first, cruised about 20 miles out of town with two mates, was giving it way more on the way to a pub meal than what I was on the way back, however just appraoching 5 miles from home it pretty much blew up....or something, I thought heat seized. It died mid thrash, the first beans I'd given it for the past 20 mins so it wasn't currently hot, temp gauge hadn't gone past 1/4 all night either, and I thought i was going on to reserves. But I'd put a tenna in it there's no way it's used that!! It kept running for a bit gradually slowing to a halt then I noticed it was 4/5ths up the temp gauge. Let it cool and tried to start but there's no compression, engine turning over real fast like it does with no spark plug in it. Hoping it was just a too lean MJ and it's holed piston, cuz if it's anything else like rings or exhaust bridge issue then I can't be doing another replate and not know wtf it did this for.

Running too lean doesn't bugger rings does it? There was no clattering around from the engine, just a gradual dying as if it was heat seizing but like I say now no compression. Knew I should've done a friggin plug chop before venturing out..but at the same time all the caburation below thrash range has needed leaning off big time, needle max lean and still struggles to tickover so a leaner pilot required. Can a Nikkon or any aftermarket spanny cause this change? Where bottom range needs leaning but top range needs richening? Bizarre...

Had an absolute calamity being recovered, had to call a half cut mate out and he brought a 7 seater that we pulled every muscle squeezing the bike into the back of. Fun fucking times these 2-strokes eh :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

[marlow]

VERDICT

https://i.gyazo.com/728f93b8f9cc6df3fd404f29950b98d7.png
https://i.gyazo.com/728f93b8f9cc6df3fd404f29950b98d7.png
https://i.gyazo.com/d473a71b6d719ef2bcad063de670f922.png

Platiung ripped off from just above both exhaust ports, bit hard to see it with bright reflection of powervalve. %mm ish corner of piston gone/melted, partly welded to side of barrel. And nice lean spark plug there, obviously overheating has caused this right? Cheers my friend to suggesting I put a 180 MJ in it.

Can someone please explain how my needle needed leaning off to the max or it wouldn't tickover even with air screw fully out and tickover screw fully in, and is still in need of a leaner pilot, but yet leaning off the MJ has cost me another £300+? Ok coming down from the standard 200 to 180 is a bit much, but does that look like 0.2mm worth of over leanness?

[marlow]

And bit strange how it's broken down where it has on the piston, it even looks as though the pv's have been caught but how/why? They haven't come anywhere near the piston/rings for 200 miles they wouldn't just decide to now. If overheating due to leanness has cause it then why hasn't it holed the piston, isn't that what overheating usually does? Why would the overheat attack that particular side and not the other?

[marlow]

Woaaah hold up, mistake made, eyes deceiving me, can't even get a prognosis right!! :rolleyes::rolleyes:

I don't THINK there's any plating missing. It was the shape of the exhaust port and the background of the darker pv section that mde it look that way, but on closer inspection I don't think any plating has gone. Phew! (if that's right).

So I need an emrgecny piston, assuming I can just scrape the welded remnants of previous one off the barrel there, I have another question.

What exactly is the difference between the more expensive Vertex and Wossners, around £100, and the cheaper ones? Mitaka are around £50 but there's kits on ebay for as little as £25. Is the main difference weight? I mean how many miles difference in longevity or how much difference in performance are we talking here?
Also the cheaper pattern ones only say "to fit 56mm bore", they don't state the actual size like Vertex/Wossner do. It's problem?

[F5 Dave]

Woosner are great but the Mitaka ones are quite serviceable for a road engine. I'd be concerned of too cheap, may be copies.

Detonation at ex port of piston is too lean. Drain cleaner powder on a damp rag can help remove ally from bore but be super careful it is dangerous.

[marlow]

Yh I'm still a bit baffled (but maybe it's normal) again as to why it would seem you have to richen a mj when the rest of the range needs leaning, is that normal thing from using different expansion chambers?

Also, pic below is how much gunk oozes out of my pv breather every day, from only a few miles. This can't be normal...

https://i.gyazo.com/801f2dc670b56a4dc5efacf861d28d2c.png

Bike seems to smoke a normal amount and as stated it's all on a rebuild including full decoke of pv's.

[Drew]

That looks like water and oil mixed together. Have you got a cracked head or water jacket to the exhaust port?

That would explain the fueling oddities.

[marlow]

No I had a dowel/pin not fitting properly issue, water initially leaked from gasket, then I grinded the dowel down some and it turned into leaking from the offending nut instead but no longer directly from gasket. Today I've machined it some more to fit way lower.

In these pics I've basically sanded the welded on alloy spots with 120...how should I finish things? It seems to be 50/50 opinions in a google search about honing plated barrels so...

https://i.gyazo.com/d046511dd55f1103e743ef85e478ecc4.png
https://i.gyazo.com/f575a9fbb2ba3422b2fb8024cd82ef2f.png
https://i.gyazo.com/6b801cfd5638f45096ae82ac0c40e154.png

Bore measures 56.02 up top so guess I'll go with 55.95 piston this time instead of the 55.94 which seemed very rattley...could maybe get away with 55.96 but I don't really know what I'm talking about...

[190mech]

Easy Off oven cleaner works well for removing aluminum from cylinders,brush some on the aluminum and let it sit for a few hours,a scotchbrite abrasive pad should remove the rest..

[jasonu]

Thanks for the tips TZ350. I already know the blades are safe as I'm 200 miles run in now on the new engine. But I was told on RGV.co.uk forum that the important part of the pv's is the blend point. I think it's about as close as it can get anyhoo.

Well, major progress made, it was the chuffin spark plug!!!! :killingme:killingme:killingme:wait::nya::nya::bri ck:

Unbelievable, a BRAND NEW spark plug I had in there since engine rebuild, exactly as standard, NGK BR9ES, and the whole time it's been a dud. I swapped it back for the old one that came with the bike and hello rocketship!! No more splutter, screams round to 12 (then hits a brick wall) and even ironed out a few flat spots. How can a brand new plug be a dud? I got it off ebay but still. Over 6 months ago now I can't even trace where it came from.

But sadly bad news. Went out on it tonight still with the 180 MJ but realised to replace the airbox lid first, cruised about 20 miles out of town with two mates, was giving it way more on the way to a pub meal than what I was on the way back, however just appraoching 5 miles from home it pretty much blew up....or something, I thought heat seized. It died mid thrash, the first beans I'd given it for the past 20 mins so it wasn't currently hot, temp gauge hadn't gone past 1/4 all night either, and I thought i was going on to reserves. But I'd put a tenna in it there's no way it's used that!! It kept running for a bit gradually slowing to a halt then I noticed it was 4/5ths up the temp gauge. Let it cool and tried to start but there's no compression, engine turning over real fast like it does with no spark plug in it. Hoping it was just a too lean MJ and it's holed piston, cuz if it's anything else like rings or exhaust bridge issue then I can't be doing another replate and not know wtf it did this for.

Running too lean doesn't bugger rings does it? There was no clattering around from the engine, just a gradual dying as if it was heat seizing but like I say now no compression. Knew I should've done a friggin plug chop before venturing out..but at the same time all the caburation below thrash range has needed leaning off big time, needle max lean and still struggles to tickover so a leaner pilot required. Can a Nikkon or any aftermarket spanny cause this change? Where bottom range needs leaning but top range needs richening? Bizarre...

Had an absolute calamity being recovered, had to call a half cut mate out and he brought a 7 seater that we pulled every muscle squeezing the bike into the back of. Fun fucking times these 2-strokes eh :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

You should buy a car.

[husaberg]

Easy Off oven cleaner works well for removing aluminum from cylinders,brush some on the aluminum and let it sit for a few hours,a scotchbrite abrasive pad should remove the rest..

Muriatic acid
http://www.2t-racelab.com/2013/11/muriatic-acid-for-removing-piston.html
edit


Drain cleaner powder on a damp rag can help remove ally from bore but be super careful it is dangerous.

Ya beat me

[marlow]

You should buy a car.

Is that what your tutor told u as well? U should donate to more charities, sound like a giving guy.

[Yow Ling]

that cylinder looks like it has a sleeve, if so just get it bored for next size up

[marlow]

You can't bore Nikasil

[Yow Ling]

You can't bore Nikasil

Yes you are quite right, but in this picture it looks a bit like a sleeve has been fitted to the cylinder
https://i.gyazo.com/d046511dd55f1103e743ef85e478ecc4.png
nicasil is normally plated dierctly onto the cylinder surface , so why is there a ring that looks like a sleeve around the top of the cylinder ?
Maybe you paid for a replate and got a sleeve

[marlow]

Aren't they like that standard then?

I have 10 days to have it up n ready for a lad's 125 jaunt to a caravan site, so time and also money are not options :crazy:

[F5 Dave]

A magnet will answer the question pretty quickly. Pictures can be great or misleading.

[marlow]

deleted post

[F5 Dave]

Post added with no content.

[husaberg]

pic added for the heck of it
http://rg125.byethost7.com/technique/huile1.jpg

[marlow]

Have new running problems again now. Today I installed a slightly smaller pilot, there's 3 different sizes across all RG125F models, 27.5, 25 and 17.5. Mine was 27.5 and seeming rich down low so I got a 25. Doesn't seem to have done much but I haven't had chance to set it up air screw/idle speed wise while at running temp. I've been too busy trying to figure out why I was getting splutters all over the place and power was shite. I guess 6 miles into a new piston you shouldn't get optimal performance, but anyways, figuring it may now be too rich I dropped the 240 MJ down to a 230 (at same time as pilot change) and a 9k splutter cleared nicely off. However the initial terrible running at high revs problem which was solved with a new plug...is back with a vengeance :facepalm: Thinking perhaps another dud plug I've swapped for 2 other brand ones, this time no difference. When I had this problem before it wouldn't occur too much in 1st and 2nd, but it did in longer gears. Well now it's the direct opposite!! wtf? I nail it in first and it nose dives at 11ish with a mad splutter refusing to rev anymore, but in 2nd and 3rd it pulls to higher with no problem. :eek5:

Thinking that maybe 230 MJ is still too rich and causing this madness, I did an attempt at a plug run about 30 miles into the break in. I'm not experienced with plug chops so I'm wondering if I nailed it long enough to get the colour change from mid range point? Basically I nailed it through 2nd and 3rd (where it didn't splutter at all) so probably for around 6-8 seconds I dunno, before killing the switch at around 11,500rpm, and then there was a touch of dethrottle before I pulled clutch in. Well this is how it looks
https://i.gyazo.com/260cb6f4d2d578a120ec800e48acd334.png

Well that doesn't look rich enough to be causing this random 10-11k spazzing again. sigh never ends

[F5 Dave]

OK move with caution. First things first. Jets on a slide carb, unlike a cv should be considered on a throttle position perspective. Not revs. Write that down on a piece of paper and bring it out before making any changes as this will trip you up again and again.
I must apologize as I am too lazy to read back the thread (or correct the freaking autocorrect that insists i want to spell using z)

but in no particular order;
Assume foam filter? Clean actually std foam not replacement with unsuitable foam and not drowning in engine oil. (Not that I've ever done this). . .
Plug cap measures <6k or swapped as a trial.
Ign coil but less likely. . . Unless it is a combined cdi/coil like the RG50s which were prone to failing gradually.
Muffler not collapsed or clogged in oil.

Most roadbikes should be fine on std jets. Then you adjust. Fix the problem and it seizes. Course you have the restricted bike settings in uk vs unrestricted.

Be aware that as you bomb along close the throttle and go down the gears from a decent speed, the engine is surviving fed by the pilot jet at high revs for quite some time.

[marlow]

Thanks for the info.

Filter is all standard, foam, used to be oily but has dried out a bit now. Ideally would in the long term like it set up without the lid as that gets the biggest induction roar possible, but not sure if that's practical.

Not sure what plug cap <6k means but I haven't done any electrical testing as yet. How's best to go about that?

Yh the reason I'm having to change from standard jetting is cuz of the brand new Nikkon pipe it has. But as stated earlier, I've had to lean right off on the needle side hence also getting a smaller pilot. When initially starting the new engine with all standard carb settings, it refused to tickover with air screw fully out and idle screw fully in. Only leaning the needle to the max got it to tickover. But it seems at the higher revving range a richer than standard main is needed. I've still not had anyone confirm that yes it's very possible an exhaust change can cuz a richening at one end of the scale and a leaning at the other.

[TZ350]

Not sure what plug cap <6k means but I haven't done any electrical testing as yet. How's best to go about that?

<6k is short hand for "less than 6,000 Ohms resistance."


The the reason I'm having to change from standard jetting is cuz of the brand new Nikkon pipe it has. But as stated earlier, I've had to lean right off on the needle side hence also getting a smaller pilot. When initially starting the new engine with all standard carb settings, it refused to tickover with air screw fully out and idle screw fully in. Only leaning the needle to the max got it to tickover. But it seems at the higher revving range a richer than standard main is needed. I've still not had anyone confirm that yes it's very possible an exhaust change can cuz a richening at one end of the scale and a leaning at the other.

No surprises that the new pipe requires different jetting. It sucks in a different way so needs a different fuel curve.

It has been my experience with the dyno, that if you lean the needle significantly you may very well have to richen the main and vica versa.

330811

All the jets in a carb overlap some what. So leaning one may certainly mean having to richen another.

[TZ350]

https://i.gyazo.com/260cb6f4d2d578a120ec800e48acd334.png

Well that doesn't look rich enough to be causing this random 10-11k spazzing again. sigh never ends

Maybe not so rich that its wetting the plug and putting the fire out, but it could be lean. Maybe not so lean that its detonating but lean enough that the motor struggles to make power.

The brown is just burnt on stain from the oil your using and fuel additives.

Links to pages that have a post or two about the proper way to read plugs for mixture strength. You will have to skim down the page to find the relevant post.

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130773139#post1130773139

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130454090#post1130454090

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130461646#post1130461646

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130463201#post1130463201

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner?p=1130464308#post1130464308

[F5 Dave]

Yeah I was typing that on a phone. Try washing the filter in petrol, drying thoroughly and go for a testride. Then recoil it with air filter oil, don't go crazy. Engine oil may block it up enough to be a problem. I once replaced a dirty looking filter with some foam I found and oiled it. Ran dreadful. 17yr old me felt really foolish when the mechanic found it.

[marlow]

Thanks for all the links TZR350 very helpful :2thumbsup



Then recoil it with air filter oil, don't go crazy. Engine oil may block it up enough to be a problem. I once replaced a dirty looking filter with some foam I found and oiled it. Ran dreadful. 17yr old me felt really foolish when the mechanic found it.

Do you not put 2-stroke oil on filter foam then?

Well I've not altered anything of late other than tweaking the PV a mm or two one way and another, as it really is quite an imprecise thing on these bikes. Quite confident I've go it down now though.

I'm wondering though if another issue may be causing fueling irregalarities. And that is the amount it smokes. My bike does smoke more than all my mates 125's, quite alot when cold, then ok once warm, then blasts pretty big clouds out when giving a handful even when hot. I think I read the more 2-stroke oil in the mix then the leaner the fuel mix is? But that would make things even more confusing becuz I've had to lean off both needle and pilot as it is. And sa things stand, idle speed still rises at 3 turns out on the air screw indicating even further leaning of the pilot jet is required?

Regardless of that, remember the picture of all the stodge my powervalve breather is kicking out? Well it's still the same. I obviously have the pump set correctly according to the alignment marks, but the method the manual uses to detemrine just how much oil I'm getting is a confusing one I don't understand.

https://i.gyazo.com/6e8c4600222c8802e2925c265a952a62.png

I don't know what a "special tool" is and I don't get how you run the engine so the oil is pumping into somewhere else, surely then the engine isn't getting any oil?
Are there any simpler methods to determine if my oil pump is pumping too much oil through?

[FastFred]

"special device" my bet is they are talking about a small measuring cylinder. At 3-3.6ml (ml=cc) a 10cc disposable plastic syringe would be good enough. The oil pump sucks out of the measuring cylinder and continues to pump into the motor.

[marlow]

Ah right I get it now, I was thinking of it back to front :facepalm:




Maybe not so rich that its wetting the plug and putting the fire out, but it could be lean. Maybe not so lean that its detonating but lean enough that the motor struggles to make power.



Also regarding this, if leaner is going to lose power then why was the bike an aboslute rocket ship with 180 MJ? Plug pictured is with a 230 and power feels almost halved lol. Ok probably overly exagerrated but I'd take a wild stab that as much as 5-6 ponies have buggered off now. Almost feels as though it's around one pony per jet size or something. 5 jet sizes bigger, 5 ponies difference, but obviously won't blow up.

[TZ350]

Also regarding this, if leaner is going to lose power then why was the bike an aboslute rocket ship with 180 MJ? Plug pictured is with a 230 and power feels almost halved lol. Ok probably overly exagerrated but I'd take a wild stab that as much as 5-6 ponies have buggered off now.

It is my experience that those ponies have attention deficit syndrome because some of them are always buggering off, happens to us a lot too. .... :laugh:

180 MJ works 230 is leaner, it can easily happen because a cheap Chinese 230 might very possibly flow less than a genuine 180 MJ jet.

Anyway different manufacturers can have different ideas about what 230 actually means.

Not saying this is the problem, only it is just another issue in the mix to consider.

When setting up, I always try to use jets from the same manufacturer if I can.

[jasonu]

\ Try washing the filter in petrol,.

Tightarse, buy some proper filter cleaner.

[Drew]

Tightarse, buy some proper filter cleaner.
Why? It's no better than petrol for the task.

[marlow]

Well more hilarity has ensued for the unluckiest biker in history :violin: Just got back from the holiday all this 125 bollox had been geared up for...on a recovery truck! :brick::brick::brick::brick::brick::brick:

The 2.5hr ride up was great, with nothing but rain forecast for our 3 day duration, it was in fact quite the opposite, thus proving the rumour the weather cannot be predicted at all, it's all just another scam. During the time there we had one little jolly out, a 20 mile round trip or so, and over the course of my thrashing, it seemed power was coming oln stronger by the day, maybe as the piston was running in more? Then what became more and more prevalent was clutch slip, to the point where I couldn't give it any hardly anywhere. If I managed to keep it stable up to 10krpm it would suddenly slip like a lunatic at 11krpm, which funnily enough I was quite happy about cuz it meant an even further power boost was coming in at this point.

Then today on the final day, with the skies clear and promising a really good run home of swapping and switching positions from front to back of our 4 bike convoy, seeing off my buds' power and top speed with consulate ease should I choose to do so, went typically up in smoke as I started the bike this morning. :confused: On the ubtton as usual, ticked over for 5 seconds and then just conked. Never to start again. No spark, but coil fine. Got a pocket tester, resistance good on pick up wire, other coil wires, earths etc blah blah, then took off the CDI and tested the prongs on it according to these manual steps
https://i.gyazo.com/4ffd966a26c4bad8e8d974fefe8fc068.png

and got zero reading on all bar one or two connections. Also on opening the back of the CDI to reveal all the circuitry, it had a weird smell inside. RAC recovery guy confirmed with his multimeter and also said it smells like something's burned out.

You just couldn't write it. Why does my CDI just randomly blow up at 1,000 revs idle out of the blue?? Guess I should be thankful it was at the holiday park and not the side of the road, especially as total rocovery arrival took 5 hours!! :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

[marlow]

People saying no CDI readings is normal and every circuit can't blow at same time. kden :mellow:

Not sure how to go about full on testing. Manual talks about ohms resistance everywhere, all forums talk about AC/DC testing while cranking with so and so plugged/not plugged in. Feel like just buying a stator (£35 on ebay compared to £50 for the CDI). I can get the CDI tested by a friend of a friend who's a student in electronics but my gut tells me it's not CDI (despite it smelling like a strange kinda shit). Whatever it is must've been responsible for my first-gear-only-10krpm-splutter. Mods can stick this thread in the idiot humour section of you like.

[Drew]

A CDI won't burn for no reason. But getting a lot of AC current isn't 'no reason'. So you need to check your stator (it's easy, there should be no continuity to ground from any of the three phases), and have the regulator/rectifier checked.

Then you will still need a CDI to make it run again.

[TZ350]

Mods can stick this thread in the idiot humor section of you like.

There is a good chance some people think the Bucket forum is the "Idiot Humor Section". ...... :laugh:

[marlow]

https://i.gyazo.com/f9631c0b0d0574df65edbd2c9d70e112.png
https://i.gyazo.com/4c75a2c1dc305f325554fa10139b28cc.jpg

Would this be the problem? Friend stripping CDI says it could be burnt out in this area...

[marlow]

Couldn't get any sense from the rectifier, setting at 1k ohms as per the manual, zero readings, tried 20k ohms, nothing, 200k and 2m however produced readings but if not set at the manual no idea if correct. So took it to a shop and asked guy to test, he said you can never test and get a definite yes or no and that rectifier cannot have any effect on ignition systems. This shop owner who's been fixing bikes for 1000 years told me this.

So, plug in CDI, sparked for 2.5 seconds then instantly blew up again. Getting zero help from about 6 different forums. Bikes in the bin. cheer