GSX1100EF advice

[Intruder VS]

Hi guys just looking for a little advise (loaded question on here) anyway I’ve come across a pretty original 84/85 GSX1100EF the one with full fairing, correct me if wrong but this should be the 1135 engine which I’m a little keen on but before I go for it and sink a bucket load of cash restoring are they actually worth anything or even what could be concidered a classic?
I’m not really looking at making money on this one just appeals for some reason, I gather they were a pretty formidable bike in thier time.
So any advice or things to look out for with that model?
Cheers

[T.W.R]

Yeah the 84 GSX1100EFE is the 1135 motor :msn-wink:

[AllanB]

Hmm I had to look that one up - I remember the half fairing but don't recall a full fairing job.

Value? Collectible?

Was it a game changer model? Or a real dud of a model? Or a Ducati special numbered bike? Or a leaky old English bike.

The above appears to be the criteria for collectible bikes.

[Akzle]

they're pretty fucken heavy and handle like shit.

pin it and grin it. and i doubt you'll make money on it so only invest what it's worth TO YOU

[jellywrestler]

Hmm I had to look that one up - I remember the half fairing but don't recall a full fairing job.

Value? Collectible?

Was it a game changer model? Or a real dud of a model? Or a Ducati special numbered bike? Or a leaky old English bike.

The above appears to be the criteria for collectible bikes.

the differnec was a belly pan and a differnt decal oh, and a grand more at the time

[T.W.R]

I actually had the full test handy so here's the specs

[T.W.R]

And the test

[Grumph]

They're a formidable engine - which can easily be made even more so - in a slightly inadequate chassis.

Finding a good 16in front is a bit difficult now. A 17in swap would sort that.

[jellywrestler]

Hi guys just looking for a little advise (loaded question on here) anyway I’ve come across a pretty original 84/85 GSX1100EF the one with full fairing, correct me if wrong but this should be the 1135 engine which I’m a little keen on but before I go for it and sink a bucket load of cash restoring are they actually worth anything or even what could be concidered a classic?
I’m not really looking at making money on this one just appeals for some reason, I gather they were a pretty formidable bike in thier time.
So any advice or things to look out for with that model?
Cheers

why is it all about money, either you want to restore it or you don't, if you want to make money try the share market.

[Dadpole]

I got my first one when they came out. I sold my last one 4 years ago only due to old age and a dodgy hip. Thirty years of ownership taught me a few things about them. First is that they will never be a 'classic' and sought by collectors. They were simply the last (and best IMHO) of the air-cooled 1100 Suzuki range.

Take it for a spin and try not to be put off by the odd front end feeling. It is light and vague but does work well once you get used to it. A whole range of wheels and front ends will fit and engine enhancements are easy.

Have a peek at http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php for more info.

[Intruder VS]

Hmm I had to look that one up - I remember the half fairing but don't recall a full fairing job.

Yep that’s the one!! But in red/white

Value? Collectible?

Was it a game changer model? Or a real dud of a model? Or a Ducati special numbered bike? Or a leaky old English bike.

The above appears to be the criteria for collectible bikes.

Not so much a game changer but looks to have been more than up to the challenge from the other 3 Jap superbike manufacturers of the time.


why is it all about money, either you want to restore it or you don't, if you want to make money try the share market.

It appeals to me for some strange reason maybe because i remember drooling over them when new and I was just a learner on a little CB250RS, I haven’t seen one around or advertised for many years, love the styling and much better looking than the butt ugly GSX750ES.
Not looking to make money just don’t want to pay stupid money to secure it Although in saying that I paid way to much for one of my RZ’s but didn’t care as it was the model I wanted!!!


And the test

Awesome cheers for the road test article very cool.

[Dadpole]

The cost of one is a lottery as so few are around. I recall I got $2300 for mine. Complete and running. Reg on hold and a few spares thrown in. The last one I saw on Tardme was asking around 3500 and looked a bit ragged around the edges.

PS: They were sold as a end-of-line for a couple of thousand off by Suzuki NZ. They were the EFG fully faired red/white ones. I ended up with one that cost me $1200 in 2004ish. Prior to that, most sold were the half-faired ES model as the EF fully-faired option was an arm and leg more.

[sidecar bob]

I bought a rough one for the engine a couple of years back, I gave everything but the engine to a fellow KB'er, in exchange for removing the engine, he then traded it at buckets & bits Wellington for stuff he needed.
It included a mint original exhaust system.
Bryce may still have some of it.

[Intruder VS]

Well I’ve done it now!!! I’ve taken the gamble on it so now not having played around much actually not at all with the big Suzuki’s what’s the things to look out for in reguards to the engine which looks to be the original one as prefix numbers are correct for the model so is still the 1135

Frame etc should be no worries just the usual strip blast paint new seals, bearings etc.
I’ve read the electrics can be a problem but seems to be mostly limited to the charging system.

The bike should be here in a week or so and will give it a good look over and see how the engine sounds before the tear down.

Cheers for the tip on the exhaust I will give Bryce a call to see if it’s still available and what other parts he may have, looking at his web site I see he’s selling off all parts as job lots now.

[jellywrestler]

Well I’ve done it now!!! I’ve taken the gamble on it so now not having played around much actually not at all with the big Suzuki’s what’s the things to look out for in reguards to the engine which looks to be the original one as prefix numbers are correct for the model so is still the 1135

Frame etc should be no worries just the usual strip blast paint new seals, bearings etc.
I’ve read the electrics can be a problem but seems to be mostly limited to the charging system.

The bike should be here in a week or so and will give it a good look over and see how the engine sounds before the tear down.

Cheers for the tip on the exhaust I will give Bryce a call to see if it’s still available and what other parts he may have, looking at his web site I see he’s selling off all parts as job lots now.

keep the oil topped up, the alternators fry when the bike runs low on oil, before the engine cooks itself.

[pete376403]

www.thegsresources.com is a fun place to waste a few hours.

[Dadpole]

The starter clutch can be an issue. If there is a 'clang' during starting the rollers etc may need attention. There are kits available and it is not a difficult job. If it self-destructs then it is not pretty.

That and the clutch basket rivets are the only real issues engine wise. That applied to most of the 1000/1100 air-cooled range.

Electrical issues are the reg/rec cooking itself (seems to apply to many Suzuki's of the era. The warning lights on the dash may show random things like a failed tail light etc. No cure except ignoring it or using a complicated method to bypass it. The battery had a fluid level warning for the OEM battery. The way to turn it off is to earth the wire that went to the battery.

Tire pressures have more of an effect on the 1135 than any other bike I have ridden. A change of a couple of PSI can change a good bike to one that will require new undies after a high-speed corner.

All the best with the new beastie. There is a lot of info available online. Search "Suziki EFE" in the UK and 'GS1150" in the USA

[Intruder VS]

Awesome info guys thanks for that, certainly going to make a change from working on Yamaha 2 strokes.

I will look up the links and do some more homework on the web during the week.

Another question, are any oem parts still available through Suzuki NZ?

For my RD and RZ’s I’ve only ever used oem for the likes of head gaskets, crank seals etc.

Also have a lot to learn as to what’s interchangeable between the 750/1000 and 1100 engines and what’s 1135 specific.

Plan at this stage will be to keep as original as possible, or maybe CAFE RACER!!..............................haha bet that put the shits up a few of you!!!!! No way that’s ever going to happen while in my care.

[T.W.R]

Just a couple of simple things worth noting.

The tappet cover bolt grommets all harden significantly over time and will leak like sieves unless replaced if/when you go in to do the tappets
The rear shock preload adjuster is all plastic drive cogs, so if it's frozen up don't force it just disassemble clean & rebuild otherwise the mounting spigot sheers off. The damping adjuster is a cable drive unit and easily seizes up over time so worth stripping cleaning & lubing.
Linkage bushes haven't got any proper sealing either so probably well past their best

[jellywrestler]

Another question, are any oem parts still available through Suzuki NZ?

. i brought some gs850 airbox rubbers a few days ago, they arrived between xmas and new year, including the xmas break they took 12 days from order to in the shop, they were very very close to the costs i'd researched through alpha sports web site, and of course no freight or import taxes etc (and if the parts add up they add gst)and included the gst, and if there was an issue, it could be dealt to there and then, without having to return them overseas etc
parts cost nz retail $101. alpha sports $93, my dealer gave me a discount and they were a bit below the $93.

also i've found, alpha sports and others with flash web sites have stuff at current rates, occasionally suzuki nz have stuff that's been sitting on the shelf for a while, and it's at the old price often significantly cheaper too.
i have about six big fours from 79 to 84ish and simply use a parts website to identify the parts, check availablility and copy and paste them to an email to my dealer.
sometimes if the parts obsolete google the number and there maybe some somewhere, i brought a katana wiring loom from holland a few months ago for my mcintosh suzuki, there was another in romania but i couldn't talk their lingo

[Dadpole]

A correction for the fluid level warning for the OEM battery cure. The wire goes to the positive (+) terminal.

I found a lot of parts were common Suzuki items. They like to use one part across a range of models. * years ago I bought new rear suspension bushes and shafts from Suzuki NZ for the same cost and less hassle than USA.

The 1135 is a bit of an orphan engine wise. Different crank, pistons etc. Parts are available from the US. Have a look at http://gszone.biz/enginekits.html and start saving.

oldskoolsuzuki will give you a lot of ideas about mods and what will fit. Some of the bikes there will whet your appetite - and drain your bank account.:eek5:

[jellywrestler]

Part# 12140-00A24 Desc RING SET PISTON -SU USD Price 50.99 rings aern't dear, as said this is alpha sports price usd

[BMWST?]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

[T.W.R]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

Nah you're thinking the GSX1100F with the adjustable screen & slammed with the stupid Katana label by the yanks..and it was just the 1st generation models, 2yrs into their production they lengthened the swingarm and cured a lot of the nervousness. Though in saying that the 88 model I had didn't suffer from any ill handling that I found personally and I used to push it along quite rapidly ;)

[Dadpole]

The EFE got some flak in the press and was the victim of a three month sales ban in South Australia. It came down to the 16 inch front wheel being odd feeling and not liking some tyres. It is also fairly easy to lock the front tipping in under heavy braking. The upside is that it is easily controlled and causes no drama.

I -briefly - had the first of the power screen model. It was fluffing horrible and I was glad to see it gone.

[Grumph]

There was a bit of court action in OZ over the 1135's handling - as dadpole says, tyre choice was pretty critical at the time.

The GSX1100F was the first of the bigger GSXR1100 engines. More torque than the original 1052cc - but a crank that had resonant frequency problems.
Not a problem in bikes, but Speedway mini sprints broke cranks regularly as a result of running right in the middle of the cranks natural frequency range.

[Intruder VS]

Very interesting reading the comments, for a bike that’s not really a classic a lot of info is coming out of the woodwork.

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.

Also most of the reviews I’ve read all mention the vibration problem which seems to be at its worst at 100-120kmh, I’m guessing adjusting the gearing a little will help by moving the rev range at highway cruising speeds and on the gearing thing while at it may be a good time to convert to 530 chain?

[Grumph]

Very interesting reading the comments, for a bike that’s not really a classic a lot of info is coming out of the woodwork.

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.

Also most of the reviews I’ve read all mention the vibration problem which seems to be at its worst at 100-120kmh, I’m guessing adjusting the gearing a little will help by moving the rev range at highway cruising speeds and on the gearing thing while at it may be a good time to convert to 530 chain?

A lot of the 1135's raced here were converted to 530 straight away. Lighter and you had gearing options.

Kirby used to have a pic on the wall at Budget in ChCh, first corner at the GP the year it was held in Sydenham. You can see his gearshift mechanism hanging down as it's come loose. Finished 3rd or 4th on what was a pretty standard half faired 1135 - stuck in 2nd gear....

[T.W.R]

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.


Current generation BT45s would be way far in advance of the old Mag Mopus fitted as OEM to the 1135. Had BT45s on the 1100F and never ever had an issue with the front end just the rear when it got worn that it'd do interesting things but the 11 had 16" hoops both ends :pinch:

[FJRider]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

Over the years I've owned a few with the smaller front wheels (the GPZ 900 Ninja was one) ... and they had the inclination to follow all the ruts and indentations and wheel ruts in the tar seal if you let them. Once you were aware of it happening .. you took a better look at the road surfaces as you traveled (always a good thing to do whatever you ride).

[Intruder VS]

Current generation BT45s would be way far in advance of the old Mag Mopus fitted as OEM to the 1135. Had BT45s on the 1100F and never ever had an issue with the front end just the rear when it got worn that it'd do interesting things but the 11 had 16" hoops both ends :pinch:

Will most likely go with BT45’s as that’s what I’m running on my Yamaha 2smokes with the TZR being the exception with Pirelli Diablo’s

[T.W.R]

Will most likely go with BT45’s as that’s what I’m running on my Yamaha 2smokes with the TZR being the exception with Pirelli Diablo’s

Go with the V spec 45s :yes:
And in relation to what i said earlier about the linkage bushes etc. All that and the swingarm & headstock are critical to getting the best out of the old girl and string line wheels when you refit after the new tyres are fitted.....don't trust the adjuster marks stamped in the swingarm ;)
The cover plates over the adjusters are only held on with two counter sunk grub screws too so a dab of 243 doesn't go amiss either as they look ugly without them.

[Intruder VS]

Go with the V spec 45s :yes:
And in relation to what i said earlier about the linkage bushes etc. All that and the swingarm & headstock are critical to getting the best out of the old girl and string line wheels when you refit after the new tyres are fitted.....don't trust the adjuster marks stamped in the swingarm ;)
The cover plates over the adjusters are only held on with two counter sunk grub screws too so a dab of 243 doesn't go amiss either as they look ugly without them.

Cheers for the heads u in the linkage bushes, if they are just a bronze bush I can turn some up on the lathe, crazy they don’t have seals.

I've never trusted the rear wheel adjustment marks fully so string line it will be.

All this talk is making me hang out for the bike to arrive even more

[T.W.R]

Cheers for the heads u in the linkage bushes, if they are just a bronze bush I can turn some up on the lathe, crazy they don’t have seals.

I've never trusted the rear wheel adjustment marks fully so string line it will be.

All this talk is making me hang out for the bike to arrive even more

The so-called seals a conical cap washers that have about 1mm free-board around the whole circumference so all the road grime & crud just packs in & acts like grinding paste. And the ol story of the most neglected parts on a bike are the most important ;)

A lot of the auxiliary bits n pieces are the same as on the 750 too, like those rear axle caps etc & a few other items.

You'll enjoy it they're big mile road eaters with genuine Clydesdale HP not the highly strung horses of today. I'm a bit envious as that generation of GSX11s I've got a bit of a soft spot for particularly the slightly earlier EZ model

[Dadpole]

The swingarm & rear suspension possibly have not been touched since it left the factory. It will be well worth pulling it apart to check. If the reg is (XX)QIB then it is my old one and the lot was replaced 14ish years ago so well worth checking again.

The steering head bearings were a stock size from SKF and dirt cheap.

I had one of each of the Suzuki GSX1100 series. The one I regret selling the most is the EZ. :brick:

[Intruder VS]

The so-called seals a conical cap washers that have about 1mm free-board around the whole circumference so all the road grime & crud just packs in & acts like grinding paste. And the ol story of the most neglected parts on a bike are the most important ;)

A lot of the auxiliary bits n pieces are the same as on the 750 too, like those rear axle caps etc & a few other items.

You'll enjoy it they're big mile road eaters with genuine Clydesdale HP not the highly strung horses of today. I'm a bit envious as that generation of GSX11s I've got a bit of a soft spot for particularly the slightly earlier EZ model

And again great info and is much appreciated

Will be nice to have something with big horses on tap at the twist on the wrist but will be spending some time in the saddle easing into it with big respect for the power and weight I’m thinking.
My 2smokes I’m more used to and the GSX will be like chalk and cheese so will be easing into it for sure.


The swingarm & rear suspension possibly have not been touched since it left the factory. It will be well worth pulling it apart to check. If the reg is (XX)QIB then it is my old one and the lot was replaced 14ish years ago so well worth checking again.

The steering head bearings were a stock size from SKF and dirt cheap.

I had one of each of the Suzuki GSX1100 series. The one I regret selling the most is the EZ.
:brick:

Bike will be getting the complete strip down, every nut and bolt as I have done to my Yamaha’s, if it anything is worn past service limits it gets repaird or replaced and some of the more critical parts get replaced without thinking about it.

Great tip on the head bearings as they will be replaced even if old ones look good, easier to replace parts as going back together than after.

[Dadpole]

The hilarious thing about the 1135 motor is that you can idle through a 50 km zone in top gear and just wind on when you hit the open road for the ultimate lazy ride.

On a "closed road" the thing starts to get moving at 100 and at 170 you get a real shove in the back as the power arrives in earnest. (Or so I have been told. :innocent:)

PS: I have the workshop manual on PDF and odd stuff like compatible part lists etc if you need them.

[Intruder VS]

The hilarious thing about the 1135 motor is that you can idle through a 50 km zone in top gear and just wind on when you hit the open road for the ultimate lazy ride.

On a "closed road" the thing starts to get moving at 100 and at 170 you get a real shove in the back as the power arrives in earnest. (Or so I have been told. :innocent:)

PS: I have the workshop manual on PDF and odd stuff like compatible part lists etc if you need them.

Ah yes those closed roads amazing how they just seem to pop up when out for a ride:msn-wink:
Mirrors get a bit of a workout afterwards to.

Very generous offer and may be in touch on that one I’ve hunted the web with no luck yet, I’ve found and downloaded manuals for my bikes and others I’ve worked on but the GSX is proving a challenge

[T.W.R]

Mite be a manual buried in this old thread, though some links could be dead by now

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/10556-Lotsa-manuals-online

[220 Ohms]

GSX1100EF's are my favourite big aircooled bike, so much torque!
Have owned 3 over the years, sold my last one about 6 years ago
334473

There definitely is a small cult following for them.
I heard a similar thing about legal stuff in Oz, I read somewhere the sale and resale of them was banned for a brief period due to being considered dangerous

If your monitoring lights are playing up you can just remove the bulbs, I wrote a guide how to remove the box about 15 years ago when I removed mine, it's on the gsresources somewhere or I can dig it up for you, pretty straightfoward if you are handy with a multimeter.

I still have a few spares left over, gaskets, swingarm adjuster cap and maybe a few other small things if you are interested

[Intruder VS]

Mite be a manual buried in this old thread, though some links could be dead by now

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/10556-Lotsa-manuals-online

Well that took a while to get through that list but sadly nothing there, cheers anyway


GSX1100EF's are my favourite big aircooled bike, so much torque!
Have owned 3 over the years, sold my last one about 6 years ago
334473


There definitely is a small cult following for them.
I heard a similar thing about legal stuff in Oz, I read somewhere the sale and resale of them was banned for a brief period due to being considered dangerous

If your monitoring lights are playing up you can just remove the bulbs, I wrote a guide how to remove the box about 15 years ago when I removed mine, it's on the gsresources somewhere or I can dig it up for you, pretty straightfoward if you are handy with a multimeter.


I still have a few spares left over, gaskets, swingarm adjuster cap and maybe a few other small things if you are interested


Yeah engine power specs are pretty impressive for an old girl and really into the tough looking 80’s styling, guess the down side if you can call it that is the 80’s handling and stopping power but then that’s all part of the charm.

All ready wasted a few hours over at Gsresources and oldskoolsuzuki. Some great reads

Thanks for the offer and yes could be interested, once bike is here i’ll give it a good once over Then make a plan and parts list so you could be hearing from me.

[T.W.R]

Well that took a while to get through that list but sadly nothing there, cheers anyway

There's a few PDF files on-line but the sites all want accounts to be created

There's this Haynes manual on TM at the moment

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/manuals-magazines/auction-1508703320.htm?rsqid=0860676e1baf451cbc8d805c76056 16c

[Dadpole]

Nissin Calipers from the Bandit 1200 solve the stopping issue. They bolt on and only require a 40mm longer brake hose.

The manual file is 54 MB. I will investigate making my dropbox storage available for download. Or I can post a CD to you. Sadly, the only bits I have left are a worn out set of rear brake pads.

[Dadpole]

The dropbox link. Hope it works... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ax2hwj72a7npcco/AABafxWdQD3Fg6iU0M9_gyuXa?dl=0

The usual caveats:

I have had these files for years and they have passed all virus and malware scans. However, if you get Syphilis on any other nasty from them then it is your problem and see your doctor.

If your bike or house blows up then it counts as self-inflicted.

If you are caught speeding then that is the fault of T.W.R. because he is an irresponsible hoon.

[T.W.R]

If you are caught speeding then that is the fault of T.W.R. because he is an irresponsible hoon.

:oi-grr: you know what the say about assumption and it's closer to the truth of being a responsible hoon :msn-wink: :bleh: One speeding ticket in the last 25yrs and that was a decade ago for 1km/h over the tolerance limit.
I sure this bike wont be getting thrashed or having it's limits explored either.

[Intruder VS]

The dropbox link. Hope it works... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ax2hwj72a7npcco/AABafxWdQD3Fg6iU0M9_gyuXa?dl=0

The usual caveats:

I have had these files for years and they have passed all virus and malware scans. However, if you get Syphilis on any other nasty from them then it is your problem and see your doctor.

If your bike or house blows up then it counts as self-inflicted.

If you are caught speeding then that is the fault of T.W.R. because he is an irresponsible hoon.

That’s frickin awesome this inter web thing comes in really handy at times very much appreciated.
I will take great care to heed your warnings don’t want to be going to docs with an std but worse still would be explaining to her indoors. :angry2:


:oi-grr: you know what the say about assumption and it's closer to the truth of being a responsible hoon :msn-wink: :bleh: One speeding ticket in the last 25yrs and that was a decade ago for 1km/h over the tolerance limit.
I sure this bike wont be getting thrashed or having it's limits explored either.

yep haven’t had a speeding ticket in 30 years and not planning on changing that any time soon and the idea of thrashing or exploring the 1135’s limits is a little unnerving in fact me thinks there would be more skid marks in the undies than on the road.:Oops:

[jellywrestler]

That’s frickin awesome this inter web thing comes in really handy at times very much appreciated.
there's porn avaialble too

[T.W.R]

yep haven’t had a speeding ticket in 30 years and not planning on changing that any time soon and the idea of thrashing or exploring the 1135’s limits is a little unnerving in fact me thinks there would be more skid marks in the undies than on the road.:Oops:

In the right hands the 1135 is still well capable of covering a lot of kms in pretty short time without breaking a sweat or creating any ring puckering moments ;) Enjoy it for what it is and the waves of torque punched out in the meaty part of the revs

And don't get me wrong but I still punt along at a fairly rapid pace but only a few see what I can really get up to and there's few here that because of what my avatar is & what's said under it make assumptions, least i'm honest & don't hide behind some veil of bullshit and even if I was sprung I wouldn't get all wah wah :crybaby: over it. And can say in all honesty I don't know exactly how fast the 12R is though I've seen the needle buried in some pretty stupid numbers on occasion :innocent:

[Intruder VS]

Well she’s started the journey down to me and has been trailerd to a friends garage in Auck so now waiting on another mate to who’s going up that way to pick it up during the week with his ute while he’s there.

In the mean time I will keep doing my homework to gain as much knowledge as I can so I’m ready to go which reminds me better shuffle the other bikes around to make a spot for her in the shed oh and do some crap around the house to earn those all important brownie points for when I disappear into the shed for hours on end.

Getting excited now but also a little nervous as still not seen in the flesh so only going on what I’ve studied in the pics and what I’ve been told, good point there is the PO moved to Oz which is why she was parked up, unfortunately the Reg was left to lapse but been down that road before so should be no major issue.

[Intruder VS]

well she's arrived to her new home.

The salty air in the far north hasn't been to kind to it but nothing major other than the fork stauntions which are to far gone to use, the tank on initial look didn't look to great but upon further investigation looks to be only surface rust on the outside. plastics look reasonable with only a few little minor repairs to be done then a respray decals etc.
Frame is just surface rust so that will go off for blasting then paint or maybe powdercoat.

Engine leaking from what looks to be the sump plug and weeping a little from the rocker cover.

tried to fire her up but starter was a no go so stripped and found the brushes where way worn so a little half ass fix with some spacers behind the brushes and works again for now and have ordered new brush plate so connected my remote tank filled with fuel topped up oil and cranked it over she tried to fire but gave up after a few attempts and whipped carbs off stripped cleaned reassembled and back on bike connected fuel cranked over and again and tired to fire same as last time on first try so checked spark on all plugs looked good so plugs back in hit the starter and she burst into life on all 4.

So far sounds great with no nasty noises coming from the engine in fact sounds nice and tight. was a small puff of smoke at first start up but nothing since and man the sound from the 4 into 1 is awesome!!!! diffidently need a carb balance etc but still revs and idles reasonably nicely

So i guess iv'e found my winter project and will start the strip down in the next couple of days, engine will get a good once over and full service while out and a cosmetic tidy up. hope to find no nasty surprises.

Ive been hunting around all the contacts i have and most wreckers i can think off but no one has wrecked or have any parts for the EF so finding forks going to be a challenge but the chase is half the fun.

Cheers

[pete376403]

Ive been hunting around all the contacts i have and most wreckers i can think off but no one has wrecked or have any parts for the EF so finding forks going to be a challenge but the chase is half the fun.

Cheers

http://www.tarozzipaolo.com/inglese/home.htm

[Dadpole]

A lot of Suzuki forks will fit but will be too short. One solution I thought of was an extended fork cap (If you get my drift) A 50mm long 'cap' means that GSXR USD forks are an option.

As in the post above, they had them in stock as of 5 years ago so may have them still. Refurb and hard chroming of your ones could cost a pretty penny.

EDIT... We want pics.

[Intruder VS]

Cheers for the link, I will look into that lead
Not even going the refurb route as that will be insane money

I am just now become the proud owner of a GSX750ES which may come in handy for minor bits and peices and did note the fork tubes are the same diameter as the 1100 so may see if something can be made to work there, got the 750 for next to nothing so may even make something selling off the engine. Picking it up tomorrow after work as to bloody hot to do much today

On the plus side the 1100 has had the Honda Reg/rec conversion and is showing around 13.5v at idle and 14.3 at revs also found a vin plate which shows up on carjam so rereg won’t be an issue.

[T.W.R]

Cheers for the link, I will look into that lead
Not even going the refurb route as that will be insane money

I am just now become the proud owner of a GSX750ES which may come in handy for minor bits and peices and did note the fork tubes are the same diameter as the 1100 so may see if something can be made to work there, got the 750 for next to nothing so may even make something selling off the engine. Picking it up tomorrow after work as to bloody hot to do much today

On the plus side the 1100 has had the Honda Reg/rec conversion and is showing around 13.5v at idle and 14.3 at revs also found a vin plate which shows up on carjam so rereg won’t be an issue.

750ES tubes are 36mm and the 1100 is 37mm unfortunately :msn-wink:

Fast from the Past are showing stock for replacement fork tubes.......$175US each, They'll be Tarozzi tubes

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/05-0363

Pole Electro Plating in ChCh refurb forks for a $150 per tube. Have seen the results and they seem to do an OK job, but any refurb is never going to be perfect.

If you're going to gut out the 750 I know someone who's looking for a set of the secondary covers that fit over the foot peg mounts & bolt to the alloy plates

[Intruder VS]

750ES tubes are 36mm and the 1100 is 37mm unfortunately :msn-wink:

Fast from the Past are showing stock for replacement fork tubes.......$175US each, They'll be Tarozzi tubes

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/05-0363

Pole Electro Plating in ChCh refurb forks for a $150 per tube. Have seen the results and they seem to do an OK job, but any refurb is never going to be perfect.

If you're going to gut out the 750 I know someone who's looking for a set of the secondary covers that fit over the foot peg mounts & bolt to the alloy plates


Yes i thought the ES was 36mm as well but my calipers told me 37mm when i went for a look at the bike.

Well refurb is a lot cheaper then i would have expected could be an option.

Yeah most likely will part out the ES, its has a few bits missing like plastic side covers etc but if it has the bits your mates after i will let you know. I will try to fire it up could be worth a little something selling the engine a runner

[T.W.R]

Yes i thought the ES was 36mm as well but my calipers told me 37mm when i went for a look at the bike.

Well refurb is a lot cheaper then i would have expected could be an option.

Yeah most likely will part out the ES, its has a few bits missing like plastic side covers etc but if it has the bits your mates after i will let you know. I will try to fire it up could be worth a little something selling the engine a runner

I just had a quick measure up of the ES I've still got sitting here of my mates and they measured at 36. But having a nosy around the web I see they say 37 but then again unfortunately they're a different length to the 1100 as well 596mm (750) & 637mm (1100) different OEM part numbers too # 51110-31310 for the 750 & # 51110-00A-000 for the 1100.

My mate is a freak, including this one here he's got 3 others :facepalm: Had a couple of 750 Katanas back in the 80s including a new at the time SE Kat and now reckons he's to old to hunch over & moans about back problems and reckons the ES models are a bit more user friendly comfort wise, he's a fly weight too so they suit his build....little shit can punt the old buggers along when he wants too.

[Grumph]

There's several options for forks. There's a mob in aussie who do the grind and rechrome, they've got a good rep but I don't know prices.
The GS1000 uses 37mm stanchions - given the number of resto-mods happening here and overseas, I'd join the GSResources if you haven't already and ask there for usable stanchions...I've had a bit of stuff off that site. Amazing what turns up.

[Kickaha]

Pole Electro Plating in ChCh refurb forks for a $150 per tube.

They were $180 a tube about 20 years ago, last time I asked about $220, any refurb done correctly should be as good as when they were new

[Intruder VS]

There's several options for forks. There's a mob in aussie who do the grind and rechrome, they've got a good rep but I don't know prices.
The GS1000 uses 37mm stanchions - given the number of resto-mods happening here and overseas, I'd join the GSResources if you haven't already and ask there for usable stanchions...I've had a bit of stuff off that site. Amazing what turns up.


They were $180 a tube about 20 years ago, last time I asked about $220, any refurb done correctly should be as good as when they were new

I haven’t joined up at GSResources yet but have spent a fair bit of time reading through the forum so better get signed up.

I will give the rechromers a call just to see what the story is and hopefully a ball park price so I know the deal with going that way

Out of curiosity I will strip a ES and 1100 fork and compare them to see what differences there are internally.

[Dadpole]

Fork length is the problem. Most swaps end up with reduced clearance under the front of the engine (pipes) and a general 'riding downhill' stance. For a fork swap you need to find a way to extend the tubes (Chopper anyone?)

Have a look at Wemoto also. http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gsx_1100_efe_eff_efg_ese/84-86/

[T.W.R]

They were $180 a tube about 20 years ago, last time I asked about $220, any refurb done correctly should be as good as when they were new

Really? because February last year there was a answer in Q&A on a TM auction where the seller quoted he'd paid $150 for a set done by Pole and I inquired about the forks on the XS around April & got the same price quoted (because Tarozzi replacements are $405AU & OEM are $528.90AU). And the forks on the bike in the picture were done in July and cost $150 a fork also :yes:

[Kickaha]

Really? because February last year there was a answer in Q&A on a TM auction where the seller quoted he'd paid $150 for a set done by Pole and I inquired about the forks on the XS around April & got the same price quoted (because Tarozzi replacements are $405AU & OEM are $528.90AU). And the forks on the bike in the picture were done in July and cost $150 a fork also :yes:

Fuck knows why the price difference, it was $180 each back when I had a pair done when they were in the run down shack in Carlyle street and whoever I got on the phone told me $220 maybe a year ago

[Grumph]

Given that the price of chromium hasn't gone up by very much, the differences are in the grinding.
Way back, he had an in house guy doing the grinding. I believe there was a falling - out and for a while he wasn't doing stanchions.
I have no idea who's doing the grinding now or what standard it is. The original setup didn't allow for grinding the full length in one go so you got a result where you could see it had been done in several short sections.

Ideally you want them done on a centerless grinder by someone who knows what they're doing and can measure to high standards.
Do your research before deciding who does your forks.

[pete376403]

Given that the price of chromium hasn't gone up by very much, the differences are in the grinding.
Way back, he had an in house guy doing the grinding. I believe there was a falling - out and for a while he wasn't doing stanchions.
I have no idea who's doing the grinding now or what standard it is. The original setup didn't allow for grinding the full length in one go so you got a result where you could see it had been done in several short sections.

Ideally you want them done on a centerless grinder by someone who knows what they're doing and can measure to high standards.
Do your research before deciding who does your forks.

Find an outfit that does reconditioning of hydraulic rams, eg http://www.jonelhydraulics.co.nz/hydraulic-cylinder-servicing/

[T.W.R]

Fuck knows why the price difference, it was $180 each back when I had a pair done when they were in the run down shack in Carlyle street and whoever I got on the phone told me $220 maybe a year ago

The only thing I was told when I inquired about the XS legs was if they were bent there'd be extra cost for straightening, they only had fine rust pitting above the swept area and under the headlight bracket sleeves around the triple clamps.
Same with the legs of the ES in the pic, minor pitting & two small spots in the upper section of the swept area and I did straighten the R/H leg (had a 4mm bow) before they were taken in. And they were done within a week which worked in well with refitting the motor & saved having an awkward bloody lump stuck in my mate's shed, it was back to a rolling chassis inside 7days.
Pole aren't in Carlyle St any more, they're over in Phillipstown (Mowbray St) :yes:

[Intruder VS]

Called Pole and Rotorua Electroplaters this morning.

Pole said 2 options depending on how much work is involved with first being $175 each and if in bad shape which means more time involved $300 each.

Rotorua have pretty much one price of $550 for both and really sounds like he knew what he was talking about.

Wemoto look to be around $650-700.

Good thing is now I have some pricing and options to go on. If this ends up being the biggest issue I’m happy with that.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions very helpful and I’m sure to be needing some more advice over the course of the rebuild so will keep this thread going as long as there’s interest

Cheers

[jellywrestler]

Really? because February last year there was a answer in Q&A on a TM auction where the seller quoted he'd paid $150 for a set done by Pole and I inquired about the forks on the XS around April & got the same price quoted (because Tarozzi replacements are $405AU & OEM are $528.90AU). And the forks on the bike in the picture were done in July and cost $150 a fork also :yes:

this rechroming bugged me 20 years ago when i did my hesketh forks, i had little trust for platers even back then, 'yeah we'll give it a go' is not confidence inspiring
i was driving past a crane one day and thought who does their shit as they are serious stuff, roturua and from memory even back then it was close to $400

[Intruder VS]

[QUOTE

If you're going to gut out the 750 I know someone who's looking for a set of the secondary covers that fit over the foot peg mounts & bolt to the alloy plates[/QUOTE]

Hey T.W.R the foot peg covers are on the ES, all yours if you want them

[T.W.R]

[QUOTE

If you're going to gut out the 750 I know someone who's looking for a set of the secondary covers that fit over the foot peg mounts & bolt to the alloy plates

Hey T.W.R the foot peg covers are on the ES, all yours if you want them[/QUOTE]

Got the PM have replied :niceone:
Been off grid chasing chasing sambos up country :cool:

[Intruder VS]

Got The ES home then with a little tinkering got it fired up and took for a little run up the road ran well and sounds good. Not sure what to do with engine may just put aside and wait for a Pop up Kat to turn up with a dead engine. Yes I know the internals are a bit better on a Kat.

Managed to get the 1100 up and down the road a few times to and man yep sure can feel the torque all right, front brakes covered in oil so couldn’t give it much stick.

She’s all stripped down now and the frame is with the blaster, I normally paint my frames but have decided to go powder coat this time as price was good $200 for dip/blast/powder.

Going back to the fork thing again I have measured both the EF and ES forks both are 834mm axle center to top and both lowers are them same length so looks promising so far just need to disassemble to see what maybe different internally.

May need to source another rear brake rotor as the bobbins are loose unless ther is someone that’s able to replace them, I see they are not listed as a part themselves by Suzuki.

[Dadpole]

'Some say' that putting the disk in a vice with a couple of spacers (or better yet - ball bearings) and giving a little squeeze will solve the problem, :innocent:

[Intruder VS]

What is it with Suzuki’s at the moment now been offered a 98 GSXR1100 cheap, going to look tomorrrow apparently has no spark was told cdi but not sure I will take the gamble with this one as a bit to late model for me I’m still stuck in the 80’s.

Hope to get the EF and ES forks stripped down tomorrow also.

The vise and bearing on the bobbins would most likely work but a bit unsure if best idea as brakes are a wee bit important to muck around with. Cheers tho

[Grumph]

What is it with Suzuki’s at the moment now been offered a 98 GSXR1100 cheap, going to look tomorrrow apparently has no spark was told cdi but not sure I will take the gamble with this one as a bit to late model for me I’m still stuck in the 80’s.

Hope to get the EF and ES forks stripped down tomorrow also.

The vise and bearing on the bobbins would most likely work but a bit unsure if best idea as brakes are a wee bit important to muck around with. Cheers tho

We used to go the other way with the discs from the J onward. A well aimed smack on the bobbins would reverse the conical washers and allow the disc to float freely.
I'd do the squeeze - you're only limiting the amount of lateral float, not radial movement.

[Intruder VS]

There’s about 1.5mm lateral float but also around 1mm of radial so the bobbins also have some wear in the in their OD.

The ES rear rotor is a fixed one same PCD etc as EF but smaller OD. Possibly could work if needed in a pinch but would need to check if offset, mount, caliper and toque arm would swap over or don’t be so tight fisted and just track down and buy another rotor.

[Dadpole]

That is a lot of wear. Never seen one anywhere near that sloppy. I am not aware of a successful bobbin replacement, but what do you have to lose. At the end of the day, it is only the rear brake.:laugh:

[Intruder VS]

Well things are moving along with the EF slowly been hard to find time with doing a bit of home diy to keep the cook happy and busy with big engineering projects at work.

So frame came back from coating and came up a treat was a little concerned about pitting from the surface rust but came up great.
Had a play with the ES stauntions and with a little mod to the dampeners fitted in no problem and wouldn’t you know it but after I finished them a EF front end popped up locally complete with good stauntions and calipers etc so will rebuild them and if any issues with the modified ones will swap them over.
Rear suspension linkage bearings were buggered so cleaned up painted and fitted new bearings and now back together in frame.
Jumped the gun a little and cleaned up and painted the engine and fitted back in frame, since fitting I have dropped the sump to fix the strippped drain plug hole. Was worried about what I would find in the sump but was pretty clean although I did find a head of a screw in there and have a sneaking suspision it is from one of the 10 screws that sit behind the clutch so will investigate when I give the clutch a going over.
Also still need to check and adjust the valve clearance so better get onto that before I fit bits above the engine. I know should have done while it was out of the frame.

[Intruder VS]

Well been tinkering in the shed and have managed to get a few more bits rebuilt cleaned up painted and back on the frame.

Spent a few hours on the loom with the diagram soldering iron and heat shrink undoing mods others had made in the past then rewrapped with loom tape. Seems the many hours studying the drawings paid off as everything apairs to be working as it should even the lamp warning lights.

Brakes done fitted back on the bike and bleed.

So time to dig into the clutch, everything seems pretty good and there is evidence of someone being in there before. Did notice the clutch springs are red and not sure if they came from the factory that way or if someone has upgraded them but sure someone on here may be able to tell me.

Oh and the screw head I found in the sump did in fact come from behind the clutch as expected.
Look at the pic and play spot the missing screw head so now any one have any tips on removing the rest of the screw before I go trying to drill and ezy out the sucker bearing in mind it will or should have been loctited in.

[pete376403]

Now that the head has broken off there shouldn't be any tension on the threads. If the screw hasn't been loctited, you may be able to unscrew the remains with a small centre punch and hammer, tapping the edge of the screw in an anticlockwise direction.

the rest of the crew heads look in good condition, so maybe they have been untouched since it left the factory. If so, may well not be any loctite . What does the service manual say?

[Intruder VS]

Now that the head has broken off there shouldn't be any tension on the threads. If the screw hasn't been loctited, you may be able to unscrew the remains with a small centre punch and hammer, tapping the edge of the screw in an anticlockwise direction.

the rest of the crew heads look in good condition, so maybe they have been untouched since it left the factory. If so, may well not be any loctite . What does the service manual say?

Factory manual says use thread lock which as you say will be the only thing holding it as the head is missing.
My ezy out set is at work so may have a go at it tomorrow night, only fear is if the ezy our snaps :brick:

[Grumph]

If it's OE and untouched, shouldn't be any loctite there. If you're not going to split the cases, I'd take the plate off and see how much screw is available to grip and turn..

If you were splitting cases, the earlier motors have those holes going right through. Easy enough to put a small bit in a battery drill and spin it out.

If it won't turn, take the whole thing to a good welder. He'll tack a small bolt onto the visible bit of screw and it'll wind out easy peasy....

If I'm feeling particularly anal on race engines, I grind a small nick in the OD of the countersunk screws - and punch a piece of the steel plate into the vee.

Do not use loctite on those screws.....

[Dadpole]

If it were me I would not stress too much about getting out the screw stump. As long as it is stuck and will not come loose I would leave it until the cases are split. It is only a retaining collar and still has two screws holding it.

[pete376403]

If you're committed to drilling the screw out, get some left hand twist drills (run the drill motor in reverse, obviously). As they are drilling they may wind the screw out. You'd need to try a proper engineers supply house for LH drills.

[T.W.R]

If you're committed to drilling the screw out, get some left hand twist drills (run the drill motor in reverse, obviously). As they are drilling they may wind the screw out. You'd need to try a proper engineers supply house for LH drills.

This above, but works more effectively drilling a pilot hole (essentially coring the screw remnants) first. smear a bit of grease around the whole lot and dip both drill bits in grease too to catch & collect as much swarf as possible :yes:. Dot punch then drill with the likes of a 2.5mm then sometimes even stepping up to a 3.5 is enough to extract the screw shaft

[Katman]

If you're going to try using an ezy out don't waste your time with the tapered shaft type.

The parallel shaft type are by far the best.

http://www.uktools.com/25pc-screw-extractordrill-guide-set-p-11528.html

[Intruder VS]

Wow lots of advice and can see merits in them all.

Got home from work walked straight into the shed drilled an 3.5 hole gently tapped in a #4 ezy out turned it gently and the screw resisted a little then started to move:woohoo:

New screw now fitted and went with the recommendation of no loctite.

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

[pete376403]

Wow lots of advice and can see merits in them all.

Got home from work walked straight into the shed drilled an 3.5 hole gently tapped in a #4 ezy out turned it gently and the screw resisted a little then started to move:woohoo:

New screw now fitted and went with the recommendation of no loctite.

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

Go and buy a lotto ticket while your luck holds

[Intruder VS]

Go and buy a lotto ticket while your luck holds

Yeah not much luck with lotto but worth another try so done.

[Intruder VS]

Well she’s still moving along slowly, starting to look a bit better now almost ready for clear coat then that’s most of the cosmetic stuff sorted. Still a few mechanical bits to sort. Done the 530 chain conversion just waiting on chain.
Next project arrived half complete RD400 C with E engine plan at this stage is period correct street legal road racer but won’t start that one till the EF is pretty much finished.

[jellywrestler]

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

i'm not surprised using a shit tool like that that literally expands the screw while working, as katman said, the parrallel shaft ones are so superior, in that area of the bike i would have given myself every chance possible to get it right, bike looks nice so far

[Honest Andy]

Do not use loctite on those screws.....

Why no loctite?

[sidecar bob]

Why no loctite?

The Suzuki manual says to use thread locker on all internal bolts, so am also interested.

[Grumph]

The Suzuki manual says to use thread locker on all internal bolts, so am also interested.

I've had to drill too many of them out in my lifetime. I won't use loctite on a 6mm thread in alloy at all now.

Those plates retained by the countersunk screws have to come off to split the cases. It's a major PITA when they're loctited and won't move.
If you want to secure them, as I've posted earlier, grind a notch in the OD of the screw and punch the steel plate into it.

[Honest Andy]

Fair enough, good tip.
In the past I've always liked to use some kind of locker on small Al threads so I'm not tempted to give 'em an extra couple of pounds...

[sidecar bob]

I've had to drill too many of them out in my lifetime. I won't use loctite on a 6mm thread in alloy at all now.

Those plates retained by the countersunk screws have to come off to split the cases. It's a major PITA when they're loctited and won't move.
If you want to secure them, as I've posted earlier, grind a notch in the OD of the screw and punch the steel plate into it.

You're a clever bugger with all the tricks.
Could you please write a book while you are recovering from your port job. Seriously.

[Intruder VS]

Ok another quick question or advice, ordering new front tire and currently has 110/90 16 manual says 120/80 NZ/AUS model with 18 rear or 110/90 over seas models which were fitted with 17 rear mine is NZ so running 18 rear with 130/90 so thinking 120/80 as per manual but as these bikes are known for shaking their heads a bit whats your thoughts on how the different sizes effect handling?

[Grumph]

The taller the front section the better. But that will hinge on what is still available.
They were known to be sensitive to tyre condition too.

The best fronts in period were the Dunlop 591's - which had a very stiff carcase.

[Dadpole]

I found the 120/80 to be much better than the 110. The 120 reduces the fast 'tip-in' feeling.
The dreaded head shake is brought about by tyre wear, pressures, wheel alignment or dodgy bearings (head or swingarm).

The shake can also happen also by hitting a stone at low speed ( <50kph) if you are unlucky. It happened to me on a couple of occasions and certainly gave me a wake up. I found the solution was to always have a hand on the bars at low speed. The other side of the coin is that over 1**kph the bike is so stable that one finger is all that is needed on corners.

[Intruder VS]

Thanks for the insight and have gone with the 120/80 which along with the 530 chain should be here in a day or 2 and oem starter clutch rollers, pins and springs not far behind, also reading through the GS forum I’m going to do the kill switch mod to hopfully keep the starter clutch happy for a long time.
Up dated pic time to.

[Dadpole]

Looking good there. :2thumbsup

[T.W.R]

EFE Wobbles...the investigation conclusion

[sidecar bob]

EFE Wobbles...the investigation conclusion

"All owners of high powered motorcycles that tinkered with them placed their lives in jeopardy".:wacko:

[T.W.R]

"All owners of high powered motorcycles that tinkered with them placed their lives in jeopardy".:wacko:

Ha yeah...though being said by a commissioner of consumer affairs...the understanding of high power motorcycles probably only extended to a solex with a straight pipe and tinkering wouldn't have been more than twisting the wire off wine bottle corks ;)

[Intruder VS]

Well after reading that happy I replaced the bearings etc so hopfully the bike won’t try and kill me, I’ve been for a short shake down ride and so far so good and yep pleanty of toque on tap and no head shaking even when one handed while flicking my visor down.
Starter clutch bits arrived so now need to dig into that.

[jellywrestler]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-86-SUZUKI-GS1150-GS-1150-ESF-OEM-COMPLETE-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-LIKE-NEW/292532619669
looks a bargain as impossiblwe to get, even adding the freight to nz from anywhere in the world