View Full Version : '97 ZX9R - Whine at 80km/h
WanaGo
22nd January 2018, 20:33
Hey,
Ive had my ZX9R since 2005. Back in 2012 it developed a whine at 80km/h, and it had some use between then and 2014, but was then put away till only a few weeks ago. Pulled it out again, dusted her off, fully cleaned out the tank and carbs/o-rings etc and it flew through its WOF like a champ.
However...
The noise at 80 is still there.
It doesnt matter what gear your in, what RPM, clutch in or out, the noise is there at 80km/h, +/- about 5km/h around that.
When you pull the clutch in, the whine sound volume increases.
I took it to Richards Motorcycles in Johnsonville (Wellington) back in 2013, and he spent the best part of a day on it, doing other bits too, but couldnt determine what the sound was. He thought it might be the speedo, however I have since eliminated that as the problem.
I then took it to TSS in the Hutt in Wellington in early 2014, and the bike came back worse than it went in, quite honestly. Not relating to this noise, as they couldnt figure out the noise at the time then, however the main point of it going in was for the B Service, not specifically for this sound issue.
It starts off as a sort of shimmering whine, not a constant shound, but a shh shh shh shh sort of sound, but it develops into a constant whine as the journey goes on. The Whine however isnt just a little whine, its like a full on soul destroying possessed beast, its rather loud, especially right on 80.
Did I mention its loud? It sounds like its all around you, so I have not been able to figure out where the sound is coming from.
Chain was one thought, and possibly wheel bearings, but clutch-in sort of rules out the front wheel bearing, but the back one or the sprocket carrier bearing could still be in play and the noise volume increases due to load changes.
Someone one mentioned it could be those rubber blocks in the back wheel or front sprocket, but I havent investigated there yet. It doesnt sort of seem like it would be chain or sprocket related though, it seems more like a bearing. I have adjusted the chain betwen a little loose and boarderline too tight, and the sound remains. I was hoping for it to highlight something, but it seems not.
Could it be the output shaft bearings on the transmission, given its speed related, and not RPM?
Could it be the clutch? The clutch overall works fine, no crunches between gears, there a thunk when you first click it into 1st from Neutral, but other than that it changes smooth. I think the thunk is fairly normal for these bikes.
So the Bike is a 1997, its done 51000km.
I dont want to sell the bike, its worth more to me than I would get for it, so I want to plod away and get it running right again.
If I was to take it into a shop, Im guessing it would be $1000 of time to figure out what the problem is, wit hno guarantee they would even find it (from previous experience) plus whatever parts it might end up being.
Any ideas I would greatly appreciate.
If there is anyone in Wellington who is a guru with bikes and would be happy to ride over one day and take it for a spin to help diagnose it, I would really appreciate it. Really wanting to get it sorted.
Short of this, I guess I just have to start buying bearings and replace things bit by bit, and hope that one of them solves the problem - but that is less than ideal.
Thanks
AllanB
22nd January 2018, 21:47
Change the wheel bearings.
If it was engine or gearbox you'd think it would be dependent on rpms.
Pull in the clutch and you still hear it so leads me to wheels.
Before you pull the wheels out, have you degreased and re-lubed the chain? Are the sprockets in good condition? Also pop off the front sprocket cover and clean out all the gunk that is behind there. A long shot but costs nothing other than a hour in your shed tomorrow night.
I had a 1982 Kawasaki that developed a really loud random engine noise randomly. Random in that it always had the same pace despite speed or rpm. I had to leave it with the shop for a week before it did it for them (pretty sure they thought I was going mad) the good buggers had a peep where they thought it may be but found nothing so shut it back up as Kawasaki would not cover anything under warranty unless it was broken. They just said ride the shit out if it. It disappeared later on and I ended up putting over 110,000 kms on that bike.
WanaGo
22nd January 2018, 22:22
Cheers AllanB
I havent fully removed the chain and degreased etc, I have kerocened it from time to time and washed and oiled, and then just the regular oiling. And no I havent removed the front sprocket cover. I guess ill get that done ASAP then.
The rear sprocket I was looking at today. It doesnt look bad, I have never changed it since owning it though, or the chain. The teeth on the rear sprocket are not symetrical anymore, but I wouldnt say they are dead either, comparing to what I can see in the Haynes manual. The chain adjustment is pretty extended now though, so potentially the chain is getting a bit long in the tooth... but it would be really odd if this sound was chain, as it sounds nothing like chain noise.
I have new front and rear bearings on their way, along with the sprocket carrier bearing, so I will replace those since I have them coming anyway. They might be here later this week, or early next. Tomorrow I will get stuck into the front sprocket and see what I can see in there.
Still would seem odd if it is the front sprocket and gunk...
Pulling the the clutch makes the sound louder, but since the sprockets are turning due to the wheels turning, then the output shaft on the gearbox will be spinning too, so that doesnt rule out the output shaft bearings I think... But wheel bearings first, and go from there I guess.
Cheers
SVboy
23rd January 2018, 07:10
Keep us posted. If it was output shaft bearings surely they would whine at all speeds, not just 80 Kms? I think your approach is correct, wheel bearings and carrier bearings first. Not fixed? New chain and sprocket set next. How about brake pad rub on slightly warped rotors or with old caliper seals stopping the pistons from retracting easily?
sidecar bob
23rd January 2018, 07:56
Have you tried a different helmet? One of my bikes has a horrible noise when I wear one helmet & nothing with another helmet.
The noise doesn't exist, it's some weird combination of factors that creates the situation.
T.W.R
23rd January 2018, 08:16
Keep us posted. If it was output shaft bearings surely they would whine at all speeds
Not necessarily, it's like rubbing your finger on a crystal wine glass....harmonic resonance :msn-wink:
jellywrestler
23rd January 2018, 08:22
Have you tried a different helmet? One of my bikes has a horrible noise when I wear one helmet
are you sure the wife wasn't on the bike at that time?
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 08:24
Thanks Guys
Yes I have changed helmet, nothing to do with that, its definitely the bike, not my head :)
I have a Shark Race-R Pro Carbon coming today which I picked up, fingers crossed it fits perfectly - ill have to give it a try when that arrives for sure to see if its 10000% not helmet though ;)
Brakes, I got new pads and disc when TSS did the service, and the sound was there before and after, so its not that.
I have new brake pads in the front coming with my wheel bearings, so they will be changed out then too. I am pretty sure I have attempted a light touch on the brakes while riding and the sound remained, but I will double check that - good thinking. I dont think its brake noise though somehow.
RE the output shaft, yeah like T.W.R said, ressonance etc. That is all I can think of too as to why its not constant, but for some reason if it is a bearing, then potentially its just worn to a degree that 80km/h seems to be its vibrating point. Tis a little odd though.
Ill eliminate one at a time, thanks for your help
sidecar bob
23rd January 2018, 08:38
Do you have a headlamp cover or any other accessory that may cause an aerodynamic wind noise?
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 09:06
No accessories like that I dont believe, it was basically stock when I got it, had a different muffler on it, and it potentially had been crashed at one point, maybe on the track as when I painted it there were a number of fairing bits cracked which I got repaired. Also under the seat instead of being all moulded plastic etc, its very nicely formed up alloy sheet. But aside from all that, its stock I beleive.
https://preview.ibb.co/dJKrMw/20180112_141415.jpg
Here is a picture of my rear sprocket too. From what I can tell of the Haynes, this is still within limits - but happy to be told otherwise.
https://preview.ibb.co/dWfbob/20180122_123457.jpg
T.W.R
23rd January 2018, 09:16
Here is a picture of my rear sprocket too. From what I can tell of the Haynes, this is still within limits - but happy to be told otherwise.
https://preview.ibb.co/dWfbob/20180122_123457.jpg
That sprocket is toast...it's starting to hook, if it's like that the front sprocket is probably worse. You're best to fit a new set sprockets & chain.
the noise though will be isolated to either the output shaft or the rear wheel bearings or sprocket hub bearing
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 09:24
Ah ok - thank you.
I will start the hunt for new chain and sprockets then. Any recommendations which are not so hard out they cost a fortune, but still decent?
Yep I agree with the rear wheel bearings/carrier bearing, or the output shaft.
My old man just went to get his bike serviced and ask the mechanic there about my bike, and he said "definitely on the counter shaft bearing, front sprocket" - "getting louder when offloading the drive - yep".
I may as well get in those bearings at the same time.
Thanks
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 09:29
So if it is the output shaft, would I be right in thinking its the 2x 92045 ball bearings which need to be replaced?
What about things like bushings or the needle bearings, 92028A and the 2x 92046 ?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/1997/ninja-zx-9r-zx900-b4/transmission
Thanks
Katman
23rd January 2018, 10:06
Just a random suggestion - does it still make the noise with the fuel cap open?
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 10:18
Now that I havent tried...
Can you elaborate?
I know when its sitting there in the sun, the vent in the lid whistles. Even when in the shed, now and then it squeeks as I guess its releasing pressure.
What are your thoughts?
T.W.R
23rd January 2018, 12:29
So if it is the output shaft, would I be right in thinking its the 2x 92045 ball bearings which need to be replaced?
What about things like bushings or the needle bearings, 92028A and the 2x 92046 ?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/1997/ninja-zx-9r-zx900-b4/transmission
Thanks
Just the outer assembly: bearing (92045-1224)(6305), collar (92143-1757), & seal (92049-1361)
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 12:35
Ah yeah sorry, outer only.
92143 collar is no longer available, apparently. hmm
Cant see the seal you are referring to though (92049-1361), doesnt seem to be on that diagram
T.W.R
23rd January 2018, 12:42
Ah yeah sorry, outer only.
92143 collar is no longer available, apparently. hmm
Cant see the seal you are referring to though (92049-1361), doesnt seem to be on that diagram
The collar may be no longer available through partzilla but try your local dealership there'll be an update part (superseded number OEM)
The seal is located on the engine casings diagram ;)
it only stands to reason that'll be either the output shaft or wheel/hub bearings as with your diagnosis being the constant speed etc as those items are the only things that rotate at a constant relative to indicated speed. one or the other will be starting to collapse and the excessive float is causing the harmonic resonance.
Honest Andy
23rd January 2018, 13:16
I get a terrible feeling about noisy bearings... afraid they're gonna lock up and turn in the housing...
Wheel bearings are cheap and usually pretty easy to change with the right tools.
But I had a rye grin reading the mechanics suggesting causes other than mechanical, I had a bike with a home-made screen once, made a sound like a dying horn (or a horn fed by a faulty switch), but only if there was no wind!
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 13:34
The collar may be no longer available through partzilla but try your local dealership there'll be an update part (superseded number OEM)
The seal is located on the engine casings diagram ;)
it only stands to reason that'll be either the output shaft or wheel/hub bearings as with your diagnosis being the constant speed etc as those items are the only things that rotate at a constant relative to indicated speed. one or the other will be starting to collapse and the excessive float is causing the harmonic resonance.
Thanks very much, I appreciate the help.
OK found that seal - nice.
OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.
So you dont think it could be the needle bearing on the other end of the shaft, which sits in the race?
T.W.R
23rd January 2018, 13:47
Thanks very much, I appreciate the help.
OK found that seal - nice.
OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.
So you dont think it could be the needle bearing on the other end of the shaft, which sits in the race?
If they haven't got a replacement bearing sitting in stock there'll be something drastically wrong it isn't anything special just 6305 :yes: doesn't have to be OEM & most of them are just NSK anyhow. The seal should be in the country at least as its a slightly lower turnover consumable item, the collar though could be ex overseas...Aussie if not then Jap.
Starting digging further internally and you start disturbing more and the cost starts to climb :yes:
The cause of it all will be that's it's had some harsh treatment in a past life and things are waving the flag of "I've had enough, get me out of here". There's meant to be a small amount of float & the final bearing is meant to take drive line lash but it'll only take so much
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 13:59
If they haven't got a replacement bearing sitting in stock there'll be something drastically wrong it isn't anything special just 6305 :yes: doesn't have to be OEM & most of them are just NSK anyhow. The seal should be in the country at least as its a slightly lower turnover consumable item, the collar though could be ex overseas...Aussie if not then Jap.
Starting digging further internally and you start disturbing more and the cost starts to climb :yes:
The cause of it all will be that's it's had some harsh treatment in a past life and things are waving the flag of "I've had enough, get me out of here". There's meant to be a small amount of float & the final bearing is meant to take drive line lash but it'll only take so much
Sounds great
Yeah I called SKF earlier and they didnt know what the end numbers on the 6305 was (6305N2SH2) thats in the Kawasaki listing, but they said it can likely be replaced with a 6305C3 which is for higher temps than a usual 6305 - $18 or so.
I havent enquired about NSK though, however I assume it would be somewhat similar?
You wouldnt know if the output shaft bearing can come out without taking the engine out do you? I dont have my Haynes with me right now.
Thanks
Katman
23rd January 2018, 14:01
OK ill give the local dealership a call and see if they have that collar, as well as the other bits I guess. Last time I enquired for parts, everything had to come in from Japan.
Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?
Grumph
23rd January 2018, 14:27
Sounds great
Yeah I called SKF earlier and they didnt know what the end numbers on the 6305 was (6305N2SH2) thats in the Kawasaki listing, but they said it can likely be replaced with a 6305C3 which is for higher temps than a usual 6305 - $18 or so.
I havent enquired about NSK though, however I assume it would be somewhat similar?
You wouldnt know if the output shaft bearing can come out without taking the engine out do you? I dont have my Haynes with me right now.
Thanks
Not quite that simple. The output shaft bearing will have a circlip groove in the outer race and possibly a locating pin as well. These stop the bearing moving sideways or spinning in the housing. Personally I would not install a plain 6305 which does not have the same features as the OE bearing.
If it has either of the features mentioned, it's split the cases to change it.
Grumph
23rd January 2018, 14:28
Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?
please try this....
sidecar bob
23rd January 2018, 15:13
I get a terrible feeling about noisy bearings... afraid they're gonna lock up and turn in the housing...
Wheel bearings are cheap and usually pretty easy to change with the right tools.
But I had a rye grin reading the mechanics suggesting causes other than mechanical!
I've chased some bloody random noises in cars over the years & wasted a lot of time doing it.
My favourite was the cellphone in the door pocket on vibrate with a txt wating that went off every 3 minutes.
After a crap description by the owner of what was up I took it around the block. Got back to the workshop & handed him the phone & said "you have a message" & walked away.
I've also had an entire packet of colouring in pencils under the rear parcel shelf trim, a can of baked beans in the spare wheel well, a heap of walnut shells in the blower fan, stashed there by a rat, buggered pcv valves that sound like a duck is trapped in the engine bay, etc etc.
Notice there's a place called "oil changers" but no place called "find that cunt of a noise"
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 15:31
Have you tried it with the fuel cap open yet?
Will do after work when I get home, just need a baby sitter.
Kickaha
23rd January 2018, 18:54
Notice there's a place called "oil changers" but no place called "find that cunt of a noise"
Could be a new business opportunity for someone
FJRider
23rd January 2018, 19:10
The noise at 80 is still there.
It doesnt matter what gear your in, what RPM, clutch in or out, the noise is there at 80km/h, +/- about 5km/h around that.
When you pull the clutch in, the whine sound volume increases.
I had a similar issue with a GS1000s.
Tire(s) on smooth asphalt roads was found to be the issue. Some tires worse than others.
Plus or minus speeds it doesn't happen ... pull the clutch in and you hear it clearer, not louder.
On coarse chip roads it seldom occurs.
pete376403
23rd January 2018, 19:10
Kawasaki parts from japan (I order from Motorad) are not too bad, maybe two weeks tops
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 19:39
I had a similar issue with a GS1000s.
Tire(s) on smooth asphalt roads was found to be the issue. Some tires worse than others.
Plus or minus speeds it doesn't happen ... pull the clutch in and you hear it clearer, not louder.
On coarse chip roads it seldom occurs.
Yeah bloody annoying. Sadly this one isnt as simple as Tires. Did it with my old tyres too, and does it on all surfaces every time.
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 19:40
Kawasaki parts from japan (I order from Motorad) are not too bad, maybe two weeks tops
Thanks - I have emailed them for a quote already, waiting for a reply.
Cheers
FJRider
23rd January 2018, 19:49
Yeah bloody annoying. Sadly this one isnt as simple as Tires. Did it with my old tyres too, and does it on all surfaces every time.
Get either a louder exhaust or faster through "The zone" ... :2thumbsup
WanaGo
23rd January 2018, 20:05
Get either a louder exhaust or faster through "The zone" ... :2thumbsup
Ive had the issue since 2012 and its getting worse, so if it is a bearing its at risk of shitting itself completely, and that would not be fun.
Time to fix I think ;)
FJRider
23rd January 2018, 20:15
Ive had the issue since 2012 and its getting worse, so if it is a bearing its at risk of shitting itself completely, and that would not be fun.
Time to fix I think ;)
At least then the whine will stop ... ;)
AllanB
23rd January 2018, 21:25
The only other thing I recommend is when you start doing stuff, do one thing at a time - ie - replace just the front wheel bearings then road test - still a noise, change the rear. If fixed it was rear bearings, if still there it was not wheel bearings but they were probably due soon anyway :niceone:
Move on the the next.
Actually, I am wondering about your chain and sprockets ..... you may be able to do a cheat check here but setting it slightly loose (or tight) then ride and see if the noise has moved or gone.
And Katmans filler idea - part blocked breather starting to whistle? But a blocked cap breather usually causes fuel starvation.
Katman
23rd January 2018, 21:41
And Katmans filler idea - part blocked breather starting to whistle? But a blocked cap breather usually causes fuel starvation.
The ZX9 has a fuel pump.
WanaGo
24th January 2018, 00:37
Yeah I will do 1 at a time, really want to know what thing it ends up being!
I didnt get out for a ride tonight, wife was home late and no one to look after the kids. I am going out tomorrow morning though, and will do the fuel lid closed/open test. I already adjusted the chain to be a little tighter, so will see if the noise has changed at all, and then open the lid and continue on.
If its the tank making that noise.... gee wizz.
Im doubting it will be, but I would love if it was. :)
Yawn - bed time.
T.W.R
24th January 2018, 05:30
It doesnt matter what gear your in, what RPM, clutch in or out, the noise is there at 80km/h, +/- about 5km/h around that.
When you pull the clutch in, the whine sound volume increases.
You isolated the issue right there, the loaded & unloaded pressure on the drive line....clutch in = less load from the engine & transmission causing more float/movement on one or two things.....output shaft or sprocket hub
The ZX9 has a fuel pump.
:facepalm: Which will display the same symptoms as starvation if it's trying draw fuel out of a tank that has a blocked vent...volumetric equalization. Fuel tanks aren't bladders that shrink when their contents are removed
Katman
24th January 2018, 07:42
:facepalm: Which will display the same symptoms as starvation if it's trying draw fuel out of a tank that has a blocked vent...volumetric equalization. Fuel tanks aren't bladders that shrink when their contents are removed
I've seen a few fuel tanks that have deformed their shape due to the fuel pump sucking while the breather is blocked.
So fuck off with your face palm.
T.W.R
24th January 2018, 08:53
I've seen a few fuel tanks that have deformed their shape due to the fuel pump sucking while the breather is blocked.
So fuck off with your face palm.
that'll be the cerebral vortex between your ears from too much kush
get back to the kitchen bitch, you're burning another batch :finger:
jato
24th January 2018, 10:34
What i've sometimes done with weired noises/vibrations like this is get it (fairly securely) up on blocks and then get it cranked up to the 80 km/hr and almost certainly you'll be able to hear/feel where the trouble is. you'll need a mate to help of course and watch it doesn't "jiggle" off then dissappear on you...If you still can't pin point it take the chain off. Be careful. sometimes hanging them from the roof with truck tie downs is safest...Be careful
Grumph
24th January 2018, 12:24
What i've sometimes done with weired noises/vibrations like this is get it (fairly securely) up on blocks and then get it cranked up to the 80 km/hr and almost certainly you'll be able to hear/feel where the trouble is. you'll need a mate to help of course and watch it doesn't "jiggle" off then dissappear on you...If you still can't pin point it take the chain off. Be careful. sometimes hanging them from the roof with truck tie downs is safest...Be careful
A pit stand and two extra people works too...
AllanB
24th January 2018, 17:48
If its the tank making that noise.... gee wizz.
Im doubting it will be, but I would love if it was. :)
Hmmm tank - it could ......... maybe........ be worn tank rubber mounts that at smack on 80km start doing funky harmonics. But that usually manifests itself as a vibration and/or hum not the sound you describe. However - easily checked by squeezing the tank with your knees when it's making the noise to see if it changes.
WanaGo
24th January 2018, 18:20
Yeah not tank rubbers.
Not fuel cap/lid either.
Doesnt seem to be chain, different tightness is much the same.
Not helmet, new one arrived.
Back to the bearings.
Wheel bearings arriving tomorrow.
New sprockets and chain coming likely tomorrow too. Front sprocket looks decent still but will swap it out anyway and keep spare.
If all that fails ill order the output shaft bits.
Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk
Coldrider
24th January 2018, 21:42
The original front sprocket has a rubber liner on the inside to reduce ringing vibrations. Are the rear wheel spacers in the proper sides. FWIW I have 98 C1 ZX9 that I still have owned since 99. If the rear cush drive rubbers are worn you should be able to rock the sprocket carrier back and forward, they make a squashing popping sound at low speed if they are worn, and you wont hear them at higher speeds reacting to torque torture. Can you put it on a paddock stand, well tied down and run the revs up in gear to listen for the noise. Another option is to be pushed on the road in neutral so the chain and wheels are rotating. We used to achieve this by having a mate on another bike pushing us from behind using a straightend leg on the passenger peg as they are not towed and there is no physical connection. We used to get broken trailbikes home this way in our young dumb and broke days while we were still at High school
When bearings make noise they tend to run hotter, so if it is not gearbox output shaft related something must be warmer than usual. Also check the rear brake caliper pins.
WanaGo
24th January 2018, 22:00
The front sprocket in it at the moment is a SunStar and it has 511 stamped into it. Unsure if this is still original, or if it has been changed. But I have not changed chain or sprockets since owning it since 2005.
I took the sprocket cover off today and cleaned it out, was a bit gross in there, but nothing too serious.
The sprocket doesnt look worn to me.
Pictures here:
http://i68.tinypic.com/nd8odk.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/29xvsk2.jpg
The rear sprocket doesn't move, its solid.
Coldrider
24th January 2018, 22:08
I replaced the original front sprocket for a knock off without a rubber liner, has been fine for 20,000 ks so your new one should be fine. Mines at about 48ks i think, still on original rear sprocket, by replacing chain and front sprocket early the rear has not hooked. Front sprocket can be a bitch to get off, centre nut usually needs an impact gun.
Crasherfromwayback
24th January 2018, 23:44
If all that fails ill order the output shaft bits.
Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk
Henry Ford once said... "Diagnose, don't guess". Bring it to us for a quick spin/listen.
Pete @ Boyle Kawasaki.
Crasherfromwayback
24th January 2018, 23:48
The sprocket doesnt look worn to me.
Pictures here:
http://i68.tinypic.com/nd8odk.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/29xvsk2.jpg
The rear sprocket doesn't move, its solid.
Can't see properly from the pics...but the wear on the sprocket and chain looks like it's had a rear wheel alignment issue maybe.
jato
25th January 2018, 09:49
Crasher is on to it ... Diagnose it properly (piece of cake !) rather than burning up time and money on random possibilities .....
WanaGo
25th January 2018, 09:53
Certainly have tried - throwing money at things is not like how I like to do things.
2 Bike shops so far have failed to figure it out.
I called Pete, potentially will take it over there tomorrow and see one of them there can figure out where its coming from.
Crasherfromwayback
25th January 2018, 10:13
I called Pete, potentially will take it over there tomorrow and see one of them there can figure out where its coming from.
Yeah mate. Drop it in, and at some stage during the day, I'll get a couple of the boys to take it for a spin, see if we can suss it. But IF you have to change the output shaft bearing...it'll be $$$$$$. But pretty rare for one to fail, unless as has been said, the chain has been way too tight.
WanaGo
25th January 2018, 10:30
Thanks mate - ill try and come in about 10am tomorrow if that suits. I am out in Tawa.
Really apprecaite the help.
Yeah if it needs changing I think I will have to do it myself, but we shall see. I think I have the list of parts and gaskets sorted that I need to get in (if it is that), and then its just a case of taking it apart and following the book and my nose. Never done one, but should be able to work through it no problem.
Cheers
Katman
25th January 2018, 11:03
Yeah if it needs changing I think I will have to do it myself, but we shall see.
Are you aware that replacing the output shaft bearing will more than likely require pulling the motor out and splitting the cases?
WanaGo
25th January 2018, 11:06
Are you aware that replacing the output shaft bearing will more than likely require pulling the motor out and splitting the cases?Yes
Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk
Crasherfromwayback
25th January 2018, 11:06
Are you aware that replacing the output shaft bearing will more than likely require pulling the motor out and splitting the cases?
It certainly does, but yep, he knows. Opps. Beat me to it. See you tomorrow mate.
Coldrider
25th January 2018, 19:36
Yes
Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalkgood luck with that, hope it is not serious. The only prob I have is with serious carb icing, that is why it is the #2 bike.
WanaGo
25th January 2018, 23:07
good luck with that, hope it is not serious. The only prob I have is with serious carb icing, that is why it is the #2 bike.
Cheers
Yeah hoping Pete comes back saying "Its 100% the back wheel bearings" or "Its 100% the carrier bearing" or "Its 100% the front wheel bearing" - haha.
Ah well, if it is output shaft, then so be it. Be 'nice' to strip the bike down anyway, want to take the headers off and rust treat them, and then high temp paint them. And the last place that serviced my bike completely rounded off the head of the oil pipe feed bolt, which you need to remove in order to get the oil filter out. Its totally rounded off, like they did it up so tight it stripped the head in the process. Have to take the subframe off and headers off to get a straight line at it and get a bolt remover onto it, or drill it out and ezy out it. Damn annoying.
Anyway, fingers crossed the sound gets ID'ed tomorrow :)
Wheel bearings and new brake pads arrived today.
WanaGo
26th January 2018, 21:54
Thanks heaps Pete and co at Boyles, you guys are awesome. Got a few things to try now.
Came back from the shed this evening to find my bike just 'magically' came apart, ready for the weekend :)
Time to sort out the stuff i have been meaning to do for a long time.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/6dd6d8de5c2025e581d22de2ac72500e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/82d95eb022a9a653a3e41f4ae43f31cf.jpg
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Crasherfromwayback
26th January 2018, 23:19
Thanks heaps Pete and co at Boyles, you guys are awesome. Got a few things to try now.
Cheers mate. Good to meet you today. Best of luck, def a weird one. Fun time pulling the bike down anyway. Hope you enjoy the process!
Pete
Crasherfromwayback
29th January 2018, 10:47
Be sure to share more pics as you go mate!
Grumph
29th January 2018, 20:46
Cheers mate. Good to meet you today. Best of luck, def a weird one. Fun time pulling the bike down anyway. Hope you enjoy the process!
Pete
So nothing definitive ?
WanaGo
29th January 2018, 22:40
Still pottering. Replaced 3 wiring connectors which wouldnt come apart due to corosion. Cant have helped anything. Flushed coolant and fully cleaned out horrendously dirty thermostat housing. Painted subframe and headers. Fixing speedo bracket and mounting as it is bent. Replaced fuel pump and filter. Removed all old alarm wiring remnants from last owner. Disabled the air pump emissions exhaust system thing as a test to see how it goes. New chain and sprockets to install along with front and rear wheel bearings and carrier bearing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/955bc301ebb3de69c81751e6cf198f9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/7cfa51c331f13ad7466e2c2f4a425403.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/b1346450bb0d5799e3c5195ab7b142a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180129/37ac1f416cd47f7c83f3a11833555b39.jpg
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Honest Andy
30th January 2018, 07:16
Cool garage time mate :2thumbsup
Too hot to ride anyway :sweatdrop
Good to change the coolant, doesn't do the aluminium any good if it's old
Replacing corroded connectors is priceless :yes: they usually fail just out of town, just on dusk, just before the rain starts... :argh:
P.S. Have you got a pool running? I'd put a dozen on that old alarm...
WanaGo
30th January 2018, 13:13
Cool garage time mate :2thumbsup
Too hot to ride anyway :sweatdrop
Good to change the coolant, doesn't do the aluminium any good if it's old
Replacing corroded connectors is priceless :yes: they usually fail just out of town, just on dusk, just before the rain starts... :argh:
P.S. Have you got a pool running? I'd put a dozen on that old alarm...A pool running? Sorry dont follow :)
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WanaGo
30th January 2018, 13:15
A pool running? Sorry dont follow :)
Sent from my SM-G928I using TapatalkOh... keen for the alarm you mean? Long dead and removed. Way back pre 2010. Just lots of old wiring left, which is now out. Yay :)
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Honest Andy
30th January 2018, 13:26
A pool running? Sorry dont follow :)
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Haha betting pool, sweepstake. I would've put money on the problem being the old partially disconnected alarm :laugh:
WanaGo
30th January 2018, 13:27
Haha betting pool, sweepstake. I would've put money on the problem being the old partially disconnected alarm [emoji23]Indicators and power basically. Immobilisers were long removed but the loom wires were all still in there, just laying around.
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actungbaby
31st January 2018, 22:29
[QUOTE=WanaGo;1131081902]Hey,
Ive had my ZX9R since 2005. Back in 2012 it developed a whine at 80km/h, and it had some use between then and 2014, but was then put away till only a few weeks ago. Pulled it out again, dusted her off, fully cleaned out the tank and carbs/o-rings etc and it flew through its WOF like a champ.
However...
The noise at 80 is still there.
My cbr 900rr started to get that was all the time though cam chain usuallt at 3000-4000 and thats a rattle .
With the cbr fireblade i think it was the output shaft end bearing so i striped it down year ago yet to but it back . if you pull in the clutch it still makes that sound . to me it sounded like was around the clutch bottom of the engine.
Its something thats spinning or turning it be gearbox drive area for sure.firgure out what rpm it is might be top gear gear bearing . even if you
rev to that rpm in that gear in netural it might not make a sound . as its not under load.
My nephews kawaski ninja 250 started making s sound like that was bloody lound. my dad got it service and it fixed it . i checked the chain chould firgure it out . take of you front sprocket cover and feel if the srpocket is loose or its wearing a grove in the allow cover .
The honda wasint a lound sound just anoying . no worse than the clutch rattle . which turned out to be clutch basket springs loose.
actungbaby
31st January 2018, 22:39
So if it is the output shaft, would I be right in thinking its the 2x 92045 ball bearings which need to be replaced?
What about things like bushings or the needle bearings, 92028A and the 2x 92046 ?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/1997/ninja-zx-9r-zx900-b4/transmission
Thanks
Am just going replace all the bushing bearins think comes to 300.00
For the fireblade dont see the point not. i cant be arsed taking engine out again. the gears that arent splined . and i guess isitn the worst thing for drive.
As they free wheel . am still anal about replacing them anyways.
I brought a second hand set complate gearbox and shift forks as well.
AS mechanic at honda said one of mine was slighty bent. really expensive
To buy new . and alot the gears arent availble new and real expensive if they are. i managed to get one double gear brand new of ebay . very cheap.
I guess older models not so many people want buy the parts.
I get the some gears under cut . so it wont jump out gear . not that it was .
but was a tad clunky .i wasint sure that was a blade thing . my vfr is smoth as in the gears .
so you chould do a ebay search.
actungbaby
31st January 2018, 22:43
Ah yeah sorry, outer only.
92143 collar is no longer available, apparently. hmm
Cant see the seal you are referring to though (92049-1361), doesnt seem to be on that diagram
The double bearing on the output shaft isint avaible on mine either . but kinda worked out on the fureblade forum . its the single one . as thats right by the sprocket side.
actungbaby
31st January 2018, 22:58
Are you aware that replacing the output shaft bearing will more than likely require pulling the motor out and splitting the cases?
Yes even if you chould which i really dobt i looked intp that.
Your crank shells fall out . as i got my cbr 900rr engine on the bench .
And just removed the split cases .i havent touched the crank and bearings.
Its not a big deal get the engine out if i can anyone can.
I did it by myself no jacks twin spare frames just lowered it to the floor.
Lifted bloody heavy but you can do it.
WanaGo
4th February 2018, 18:00
Just got bike back together this afternoon. Wheel bearings front and rear and sprocket carrier bearing and seals changed, old ones were VERY crunchy. New sprockets and chain, old chain was very stretched. Fixed a bunch of stuff with wiring, new fuel pump and filter, new pads, oil and filter, new plugs, flushed collant and fully cleaned out a horrendous thermostat housing, and a few other bits and pieces done.
Bike is much improved! In all respects. Smoooooth is one word.
BUT
The noise remains.
So, output shaft it is.
Ill tackle this in winter. Time to enjoy the bike. Shes never had so much TLC.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/967fe0b66d28c6e7da469d46516b20a4.jpg
Crasherfromwayback
4th February 2018, 18:07
BUT
The noise remains.
]
Bring it into work in the next couple of weeks while I can still ride. I'd love to have a listen.
Nice work.
caseye
4th February 2018, 19:40
She looks a million bucks, don't give up and as you say wait till winter brefore doing anymore. Sounds like you are now onto the culprit.
Hey if Crasher offers you a coffee. RUN! for the hills.
Good man, but mateeeeeeeee, he can't make coffee for shiet.
lol.
More pics.
Coldrider
4th February 2018, 19:45
My zx9r airbox doesnt whine, it growls, if that is a fault I dont want it fixed.
Crasherfromwayback
4th February 2018, 21:42
t.
Hey if Crasher offers you a coffee. RUN! for the hills.
Good man, but mateeeeeeeee, he can't make coffee for shiet.
.
Bullshit. I saw you pitching a tent in your undies after one of my *brews*. :innocent:
caseye
5th February 2018, 04:57
Bullshit. I saw you pitching a tent in your undies after one of my *brews*. :innocent:
That yer Hon whore was an apparition brought on by your bloody coffee.lol
Nice come back though.
WanaGo
5th February 2018, 06:39
My zx9r airbox doesnt whine, it growls, if that is a fault I dont want it fixed.Yeah its not the airbox. Not an induction noise.
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WanaGo
5th February 2018, 06:41
She looks a million bucks, don't give up and as you say wait till winter brefore doing anymore. Sounds like you are now onto the culprit.
Hey if Crasher offers you a coffee. RUN! for the hills.
Good man, but mateeeeeeeee, he can't make coffee for shiet.
lol.
More pics.Lol.
Cheers. Yep ill enjoy it for a bit and then rip into it later. Ill pop over to Pete at some point soon for a ride though. Thanks Pete.
Ill get some more pics today.
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sidecar bob
5th February 2018, 08:44
The noise remains.
So, output shaft it is.
Ill tackle this in winter. Time to enjoy the bike. Shes never had so much TLC.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/967fe0b66d28c6e7da469d46516b20a4.jpg
How much would you be prepared to bet me that the replacing the output shaft bearing won't fix it either?
jato
7th February 2018, 14:33
I'll be travelling past in the next 3 or 4 weeks and would be keen to have a look before you take it to pieces. the problem certainly sounds like its giving everyone a run for their money... Regarding the output bearing i'm with bob ( a bearing thats so noisey surely would have completely failed long ago) but i've got a pocket sized bearing/machinery vibration recorder and will put my own zx9 up on blocks and get the readings at 80 kph then compare them to your bike ... we could then place bets (or not !) with bob... pm me if you are keen.
sidecar bob
7th February 2018, 16:52
Bearings don't whine, the growl & get progressively worse quickly until they self destruct.
Leaving it until winter would help prove its not the bearing, as it would have totally self destructed by then under normal circumstances.
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