Getting Learners - After Valuable Road/Riding Tips

[Cruiser45097]

Hey Bikees!

I'm a newbie as I still need to get my learners before going on the road. The dangers of being on the road on a vulnerable motorcycle with other road users is certainly concerning. What is some of the best advice you have or have learned that you'd be kind enough to pass on?

Would be greatly appreciated guys!! :)

[caseye]

Welcome to KB. What you must do is this.
Ask questions, take notes, ask more questions.
You will quickly get a feel for who knows what and what advice is good or not so good.
There are many good people here in KB, some hard to understand, some ready and willing to help,some always ready for a laugh or a practical joke, but almost without exception they will all tell you the same thing don't ever ever take anything a particular member tells you as fact.
I'm picking you will have the name of this person figured out in pretty quick order, enjoy your bike and keep asking questions and doing all you can to make your riding safe and enjoyable, if it's not fun, it's not worth doing.

[Akzle]

c*ssina is a fuckwit.

[Jeff Sichoe]

I don't know if this is some sort of stupid troll but frankly i've had too much to drink to care

anyway these are my top tips I give to every one who asks about riding.

1: do you have good hand-eye co-ordination / reaction speed? if no, find another method of transport. planning your line and anticipating issues before they occur is one thing, but reaction times are a huge part of the equation.

2: get a bright helmet, don't care what colour but make it super obvious and preferably white, high vis yellow or orange. doesn't matter what colour your gear or bike is when there is a road cone at head height keeping people honest.

3: ride. ride. ride. go on missions early in the morning when there is little traffic. then get used to heading into the city on your normal commute path, just leave a little earlier than normal. it also means you can leave work earlier too

4: practice emergency braking every now and again. empty road? stop sign? pull up as tight as you can and then when the inevitable occurs you will use this and and little of step 1 to not die.

5: everyone is going to want to push the limits a little, just make sure you're the only person around so you can't hurt anyone but yourself if you mess up.

[Cruiser45097]

Thanks so much! The helmet one probably struck me the most as it's easy to choose black simply for the mutual/biker look. I think i'll stick with white!

[rambaldi]

Thanks so much! The helmet one probably struck me the most as it's easy to choose black simply for the mutual/biker look. I think i'll stick with white!

Try and make sure it fits properly first and then look at the graphics options. Why I purchase helmets in person.

[Moi]

Do training...

suggest the CBTA path...

[nzspokes]

Do training...

suggest the CBTA path...

I concur. PM rastuscat on here and he will sort you out and give you the best start.

[Murray]

What is some of the best advice you have or have learned that you'd be kind enough to pass on?

Would be greatly appreciated guys!! :)

Two things

1) No one else on the road, footpath etc can see you
2) Never ever listen to or believe what Cassina say's

[HenryDorsetCase]

Formal training is absolutely worth while.

Then, ignore all that shit and split lanes, pin it to win it, do skids and wheelies because that shit is cool.

If you live, we'll teach you the special handshake, and the secret wave.

[AllanB]

Watch out for dogs

Speed up for Busses

Use CRC to repair a seized engine


(ignore two and three above, then do a riding course)

[rastuscat]

Where do I start.

There's two processes in NZ for getting through your licence.

The old system has been around for almost 30 years, and has remained basically the same. 6 months on your 6L, practical test, 18 months on your 6R, practical test, 6F.

The new system, CBTA, has been around for 3 or 4 years. Competency Based Training and Assessment. No minimum time on your 6L. 12 months on your 6R, 6F.

The CBTA Assessments are a little more detailed, and are conducted by a CBTA qualified motorcycle instructor. Thats why you get time discounts. Coz you've proved to someone who knows, that your riding meets a higher standard.

The good news about CBTA Training is it's largely paid for by ACC through their Ride Forever programme. It's cheap, as it's subsidised by ACC. The assessments still cost, but the training is dead cheap.

We believe that CBTA turns out safer riders. Basically because until you work with a professional instructor, you don't know what you don't know.

[neels]

Basically because until you work with a professional instructor, you don't know what you don't know.
This is true.

In the case of motorcycling unconscious ignorance can end very badly, if you don't ride with very competent riders who are willing to give you advice and tell you what you're doing wrong, get some professional instruction.


Then, ignore all that shit and split lanes, pin it to win it, do skids and wheelies because that shit is cool.
This is also true, but you need to learn to ride it proper first.

[FJRider]

... What is some of the best advice you have or have learned that you'd be kind enough to pass on?

Would be greatly appreciated guys!! :)

Starting off your riding by getting a reliable machine. Things can only get better ... :shifty:

[nzspokes]

Basically because until you work with a professional instructor, you don't know what you don't know.

But if you dont know what you dont know how do you know you need to know it?

[rastuscat]

But if you dont know what you dont know how do you know you need to know it?

I hear ya. I did a cornering course on Friday with an instructor I respect. He point3d out some things I hadn't considered.

Small improvements are still improvements.

[OddDuck]

Not riding so much, more the bike... a lot of entry learner riders go old and cheap since it's a learner bike and the plan is to step up in capacity / power as soon as it's legal to do so.

That can mean that the bike's got old tyres. Old rubber is hard and skiddy, also tends to let go without any warning once pushed (like in a high angle corner or while braking). If the tyres are older than 5 years it's usually a very good idea to change them even if they aren't visibly worn. It's spendy, but rubber is cheaper than crash repairs and hikes in insurance premiums...

There are DOT codes on the sidewall for date of manufacture, there's usually a little area in its own rectangle with 4 digits, these stand for week-week-year-year. So 3612 would mean the 36th week of 2012 for example.

+1 to formal training. You need to know your countersteering and trail braking, these are definitely best taught professionally.