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View Full Version : Quasi,s Race bike Dyno chart



Quasievil
12th October 2005, 07:49
This is the chart as supplied by GP Trading in Tauranga, and a plug for these guys they are bloody good at what they do, check out the difference. One can see clearly now why I had a hard time getting of the line ... basically no torque

thanks to those that helped me get this soughted, Frosty, WT, KK and MR

Later

bugjuice
12th October 2005, 08:15
so the blue is the old setup and the red is the new?
That's a hell of a change..

Quasievil
12th October 2005, 08:20
so the blue is the old setup and the red is the new?
That's a hell of a change..

Yeah mate, check out the hole that used to be there down low, freckin unreal.

Oh the bike is a GSXR400 SP for those that are interested but dont know

bugjuice
12th October 2005, 08:26
yeah, that's what made me splutter on my coffee.. That isn't a hole, it's a canyon

sAsLEX
12th October 2005, 08:31
so the blue is the old setup and the red is the new?
That's a hell of a change..

says blue as delivered and something about red being main jets or something, plus you would hope they make it better than worse!

marty
12th October 2005, 08:33
interesting too, that you had a slightly lower ambient pressure on the 2nd run, which (unless the machine is calibrated to take notice of it) will result in a slight lowering of performance - like an increase in altitude.

marty
12th October 2005, 08:37
equivalent to a 240 feet altitude gain.

limbimtimwim
12th October 2005, 09:00
This is the chart as supplied by GP Trading in Tauranga, and a plug for these guys they are bloody good at what they do, check out the difference. One can see clearly now why I had a hard time getting of the line ... basically no torquethanks to those that helped me get this soughted, Frosty, WT, KK and MR Later"Needles bottom clip" Must have been quite lean before hand then..?

Impressive, filled that hole nicely!

FROSTY
12th October 2005, 10:14
very very nice ol son--diddn't touch the midrange so ya still got ya punch outa corners.-Interesting how fast the power tapers off --ya might hafta change at lower rpm to get max value from the changes

R6_kid
12th October 2005, 12:04
looking a lot better on the second run! How much did it set you back...

looks like it was a bit tempermental towars the top end (peaky etc) but its smoothed it out a bit for sure.

hmmm what gear did they take it out til... 110mph is only 176kmh :crybaby:

riffer
12th October 2005, 13:39
Interesting reading Quasi.

I take it from the dyno that it was bogging down off idle?

The chart says 197.5 mains. In a 400? Those are FAT jets buddy.

Quasievil
12th October 2005, 13:58
Interesting reading Quasi.

I take it from the dyno that it was bogging down off idle?

The chart says 197.5 mains. In a 400? Those are FAT jets buddy.

Yeah Big Boggind down after idle mate, and those Jets are SP jets man and they are ready to rock !!

Two Smoker
12th October 2005, 18:10
Good to see you have it sorted Brett :niceone: I wish i had 60 Hp :disapint: How much did it cost for the dyno work???

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 11:26
Good to see you have it sorted Brett :niceone: I wish i had 60 Hp :disapint: How much did it cost for the dyno work???

Your kidding, you dont have 60 Hp ? mate your fucken faster than a fast thing.

the Dyno work cost $100 per hour, they spent 3 hours on it in total. the whole job cost me $675 best damn money Ive spent I reckon the difference is amazing.

Dont anyone think now this is done Im going to be super quick, I prolly wil disappoint you but Im aiming to be top 10 next time, thats my target.

Cant wait for the next race...... actually when is the next race ?

GSVR
13th October 2005, 12:21
Nice gains at the top end. What I don't understand is why the graph is in MPH and not RPM.

The large increase in HP at low revs I consider to be in an area you would probably only notice on the road as most of the time your reving up near max power. Even launching off the line you'd be reving high and feathering the clutch.

Are you running an air filter? If so is it standard or aftermarket

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 13:26
Nice gains at the top end. What I don't understand is why the graph is in MPH and not RPM.

The large increase in HP at low revs I consider to be in an area you would probably only notice on the road as most of the time your reving up near max power. Even launching off the line you'd be reving high and feathering the clutch.

Are you running an air filter? If so is it standard or aftermarket

i got another graph that shows the RPM as well.
standard air filter, very hard to adjust much here they run so tight in relation to the air intake etc, they tried a few things but nothing would work

TwoSeven
13th October 2005, 13:47
Can you post the RPM one as well it would be interesting.

I have a silly question tho. My understanding is the bike is a track bike. So I am wondering why effort was spend wasting valuable engine resource filling out the flatspot below 5k rpm. There is a potential 1000rpm wasted down there that could have been used better up at the top end.

I could understand if its a road bike where you'll be using low down rpm - but even then, I dont think I can ever remember riding an inline-4 down that low in the rev range. Its why I am interesting in the dyno char with rpm on it.

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 13:58
interesting too, that you had a slightly lower ambient pressure on the 2nd run, which (unless the machine is calibrated to take notice of it) will result in a slight lowering of performance - like an increase in altitude.

no.....more power.....cooler temp air....more dense air....more O2 in the engine....more power....

Altitude is a whole nother storie

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 14:02
Can you post the RPM one as well it would be interesting.

I have a silly question tho. My understanding is the bike is a track bike. So I am wondering why effort was spend wasting valuable engine resource filling out the flatspot below 5k rpm. There is a potential 1000rpm wasted down there that could have been used better up at the top end.

I could understand if its a road bike where you'll be using low down rpm - but even then, I dont think I can ever remember riding an inline-4 down that low in the rev range. Its why I am interesting in the dyno char with rpm on it.

The problem is that the bike has a close ratio gear box, typical of an SP model, and this means it is very very hard to get of the line, yes I have to feather the clutch to get the revs up but I still need low down torque to get away, this was the answer, now I have a smooth torque curve throughout the rev range and starts are alot better now as well.

Here is the other graph

TwoSeven
13th October 2005, 15:54
I know what your getting at - its the easy and cheap mod that fixes the problem - so all is good - xactly what I would do :)

I figure your peak torque is about 10.5k rpm (roughly) which is pretty much where i'd try to set the throttle on the start. Problem is likely to be a bit of front wheel lift.

To me a close ratio gearbox simply means there is more overlap on each gear - not to be confused with a linear gearbox which means there is almost no overlap. The close ratio simply means that it wont drop down so many rpm when changing gear (and wont rise so many rpm when I change down) - this means that each gear overlaps the ones either side more.

To get round the overlap problems I'd shortshift some gears (almost a certain if the bike was designed for the road). I figure there is no point staying in a lower gear in the middle of the power band when I could be in a higher gear lower in the power band (wider amount of drive).

Its not much to do with the way torque is delivered to the rear wheel, other than the actual ratio number itself (adding more power increased torque which is what the needle change did).

Looking at the first gear ratio on the stock bike - it does appear to be somewhat crap (ie. its worse than a cbr250). I'd try either starting in 2nd, or short-shifting into 2nd at about 50km/hr (this will probably prevent the wheelie as well). If it still wheelies - i'd try setting the throttle lower say at 9.5k and shifting as soon as you hit 50km/hr (this is a short shift). I'd probably want to go into 3rd at about 100k (another short shift - the joys of close ratio)

It does look like (from the interweb) the internal ratios were designed for 180km/hr tops - which is common for jap bikes.

I have a couple of more silly questions - did you find out what year cbr the camshaft was from and was it inlet/exhaust or both ?

The other one, is I take it you already have a 520 pitch chain fitted ?

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 18:35
fuckin hell......the way people throw around the words torque and horse power....peak power....torque curve does this and that.....

I bet not one of you know how either operate....what they mean and or do....or there relivance.....

:argh:

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 18:39
infact i wonder if anyone on this site knows the way everyone use's the terminology with no idea

Kickaha
13th October 2005, 19:36
infact i wonder if anyone on this site knows the way everyone use's the terminology with no idea


Well we will just have to defer to your obviously superior knowledge on all things motorcycle related

forgive us Master we're not worthy :not:

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 19:43
Well I dont have a fucken clue about most Bike tech stuff, but thats why I ask so much on KB, I always get answers and direction on everything I need, tis bloody great

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 19:54
Well we will just have to defer to your obviously superior knowledge on all things motorcycle related

forgive us Master we're not worthy :not:

well explain it then.....I'll give you rep if you get it right....

or prove your a ignorant prick by saying nothing....

TwoSeven
13th October 2005, 19:55
infact i wonder if anyone on this site knows the way everyone use's the terminology with no idea

Lol. when you get some experience in life, you'll realise its often not what people say but why they say it thats important. It doesnt bother me if people (me included) use the wrong terminology, so long as the gist is understood.

SPORK
13th October 2005, 19:59
infact i wonder if anyone on this site knows the way everyone use's the terminology with no idea
I wonder if you know how to use apostraphes correctly?

Any "guesse's"?

Don't go off your nut at people because they're trying.

Kickaha
13th October 2005, 19:59
well explain it then.....I'll give you rep if you get it right....

or prove your a ignorant prick by saying nothing....


I resent that remark I can prove I'm an ignorant prick whether I say something or not :finger:

get over yourself


Lol. when you get some experience in life, you'll realise its often not what people say but why they say it thats important. It doesnt bother me if people (me included) use the wrong terminology, so long as the gist is understood.

Well fuck me, for once I agree with you :yes:

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 20:01
Lol. when you get some experience in life, you'll realise its often not what people say but why they say it thats important. It doesnt bother me if people (me included) use the wrong terminology, so long as the gist is understood.

I find if what people say is based on miss information or opinions that have no bearing on truth all your doing is misleading people...and there decisions on whats correst and incorrect....

I'm not acctually talking about terminology....I'm talking about the whole subject....people think torque does this or that and power this but not that...
It is such a simple subject that is so often talked about with very very little understanding....what most people know about it is acctuually nothing...because some where along the line some one made up a hold lot of crap to explain what they didn't know....

Okay.....rep for anyone that can explain....what torque/horsepower are and what the do....and there relation to engine performance

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 20:04
[QUOTE=Kickaha]I resent that remark I can prove I'm an ignorant prick whether I say something or not :finger:

get over yourself

QUOTE]

well explain you knowledge of this subject....or shut up....simple....

being a smart arse does make you sound ignorant...

and I'll take that all back if you explain....what are you scared of????

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 20:07
oh Deary me what has this become a whos got the biggest cock match ?

SPORK
13th October 2005, 20:14
oh Deary me what has this become a whos got the biggest cock match ?
Yeah, and you're not spouting enough shizzle to prove you have a 25" penii.

Torque is how powerfull a rotational force is, or something. Hey, I don't try to pass off that I know anything...

FROSTY
13th October 2005, 20:19
fuckin hell......the way people throw around the words torque and horse power....peak power....torque curve does this and that.....

I bet not one of you know how either operate....what they mean and or do....or there relivance.....

:argh:
I'LL take that bet ol son. Shall we say 1 choc fish. :bleh:
Quazi --I still think you're gonna have a bit of a job launching.But I think with practice you'll be fine-Fuck mate ya can't start worse than me.
Where you'll notice the difference in bottom end is climbing out of the hairpin at both pukie and Taupo. The big thing is now you can start mucking around with gearing --Bud you need at leat one track day before the 23rd of november

dangerous
13th October 2005, 20:26
oh Deary me what has this become a whos got the biggest cock match ?
No.... but it is apparent who the 'biggest cock' is :wait:

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 20:27
I'LL take that bet ol son. Shall we say 1 choc fish. :bleh:
Quazi --I still think you're gonna have a bit of a job launching.But I think with practice you'll be fine-Fuck mate ya can't start better than me.
Where you'll notice the difference in bottom end is climbing out of the hairpin at both pukie and Taupo. The big thing is now you can start mucking around with gearing --Bud you need at leat one track day before the 23rd of november

yeah, Im going back to a 14th to try on the next test day. I like the 14 as its a great first gear launch from the hairpins.
Now that Im not speed restricted Im hoping to get about 210 - 220 kmph out of it on the back of puke, with luck

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 20:28
No.... but it is apparent who the 'bigest cock' is :wait:

oh...so you've turned up to play have ya danger....lmao....

I think I had the last say on our previous duel....lol

k14
13th October 2005, 20:33
Simply put, torque is how hard an engine can pull, power is how fast it can get there.

Quasievil
13th October 2005, 20:35
Simply put, torque is how hard an engine can pull, power is how fast it can get there.

thats a great way to think of it mate:yeah:

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 20:37
Simply put, torque is how hard an engine can pull, power is how fast it can get there.

not really....your torque commet in a very broad sense has some truth....

FROSTY
13th October 2005, 20:37
sorry quazi --I edited last post--I mean you couldnt possibly launch WORSE than me. yea I think a 14 might be just the ticket.
If itll help Im gonna be doing 2 weekday test days before the next round

Two Smoker
13th October 2005, 20:45
Hey Brett, what sprockets are you using??? Im using a 15T font and a 45T rear, but thinking of going to a 16T front for pukekohe... (just to give you an idea...

dangerous
13th October 2005, 20:50
I think I had the last say on our previous duel....lol
No....... I lost interest :whistle:

TwoSeven
13th October 2005, 20:55
Well fuck me, for once I agree with you :yes:

Bugger.. Can I edit my post then huh huh .. :niceone:


Quasi.. I think moving to a 15 from a 14 will increase your driving force by about 0.2 kN in each gear ( I think you said you were on a 15:47 - so are moving to a 14:47).

but. You'll lose a few kph in each gear as a side effect of doing so - this means you will need to change gear 5kph earlier than I said in the previous post (about 45k for 1st, 95k for 2nd).

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 21:01
No....... I lost interest :whistle:

you ran away because everyone was picking on ya....


Ps:have you earned you bottle or rasberry pop yet on the nera...you know your new bike with a steering damper!!!!! :done:

Hoon
13th October 2005, 21:09
yeah, Im going back to a 14th to try on the next test day. I like the 14 as its a great first gear launch from the hairpins.
Now that Im not speed restricted Im hoping to get about 210 - 220 kmph out of it on the back of puke, with luck

You really need to gear your bike for the longest straight and unfortunately launches and exit from the hairpin comes 2nd.

But in saying that, I sacrificed a little top end (redline just past the kink) for better launch as with 6 lap club races, getting a good start is more beneficial than a few bike lengths at the end of the straight (which I try to make up for with demon braking :)).

However when you have castrol exit speeds like TwoSmoker, you end up reaching redline quicker than us mortals so need to gear up.

I'm planning to do the Track day on 11th Nov so might see you there!

FROSTY
13th October 2005, 21:25
hoon--he is currently running --believe it or not 13/45
Insane but maybee it works with the sp box.
I suggested at least a 14 front but yea a 15 is more likely

loosebruce
13th October 2005, 21:49
infact i wonder if anyone on this site knows the way everyone use's the terminology with no idea

I know all i need to know:
Turn throttle, bike goes forward
Hit rev limiter (not on the TL thou) gear goes up
Find corner, use brake thing too slow down, go round corner without excedding grip levels (may overlook on the exit though)
Gear to low to go fast, gear goes down
Bored on a straight, front wheel goes up
Bored slowing down, back wheel goes up
Red n blue lights, go faster then red n blue lights
Helicopter spotlight, me fucked
Feul light on, gas goes in.
Tyre not grip, new tyre

Fuck this biking shits easy init, whats all this HP, torque, air pressure mumble jumbo, do bikes have that? What it look like eh?

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 21:52
I know all i need to know:
Turn throttle, bike goes forward
Hit rev limiter (not on the TL thou) gear goes up
Find corner, use brake thing too slow down, go round corner without excedding grip levels (may overlook on the exit though)
Gear to low to go fast, gear goes down
Bored on a straight, front wheel goes up
Bored slowing down, back wheel goes up
Red n blue lights, go faster then red n blue lights
Helicopter spotlight, me fucked
Feul light on, gas goes in.
Tyre not grip, new tyre

Fuck this biking shits easy init, whats all this HP, torque, air pressure mumble jumbo, do bikes have that? What it look like eh?

piff....you ride like a girl....

loosebruce
13th October 2005, 22:01
piff....you ride like a girl....

I am a girl, and i'm secertly in love with Quasi my 60hp hero (something about balding late aged men).
But dont tell anyone, something about being beaten by a girl upsets some guys, dunno why.

And i cant explain my excess in facial hair, or the cleveage and back hair, bloody itchy when i sweat it is.

cowpoos
13th October 2005, 22:12
I am a girl, and i'm secertly in love with Quasi my 60hp hero (something about balding late aged men).
But dont tell anyone, something about being beaten by a girl upsets some guys, dunno why.

And i cant explain my excess in facial hair, or the cleveage and back hair, bloody itchy when i sweat it is.

try waxing :niceone:

thealmightytaco
13th October 2005, 22:17
For an engine:

Torque = Force x Distance
Power = Torque x Angular Velocity

Torque is how much meat your crankshaft has to turn with, the turning force creating by the piston exploding downward, which is a product of the force created by the explosion times the radius of your crankshaft.

And power is the product of that happening at speed.

You can have huge torque but because it's not revving all that highly when the highest torque is created you don't have alot of power, while with less torque happening at a shitload higher revs you can get more power. Essentially any form of "power" is the work done in a certain time frame, so here you can almost think about it as more power = more torque per second. Not strictly correct that last bit but a good way to visualise it.

This all then means that with more torque you have more resistance against being slowed (tractors), while with more power you have more acceleration (anything with high revs; dragsters/F1/etc).

Now go to bed.

loosebruce
13th October 2005, 22:23
All i know is your bike has fuck all of any of that :Pokey:

Now you go to bed

Quasievil
14th October 2005, 07:12
Bugger.. Can I edit my post then huh huh .. :niceone:


Quasi.. I think moving to a 15 from a 14 will increase your driving force by about 0.2 kN in each gear ( I think you said you were on a 15:47 - so are moving to a 14:47).

but. You'll lose a few kph in each gear as a side effect of doing so - this means you will need to change gear 5kph earlier than I said in the previous post (about 45k for 1st, 95k for 2nd).

At the moment Im on a 13 front and a 47 rear, I changed the front down one toothe as I was not able to give it a full rpm assault in 6th gear on the back straight of puke, as well as I hoped for a better launch.
Im thinking i will try the 13 on a test day and swap it to a 14 as well to see the differences.

Hoon
14th October 2005, 09:51
hoon--he is currently running --believe it or not 13/45
Insane but maybee it works with the sp box.

Yeah I suspect something radical is happening in his gearbox to use those sprockets. The ZXR400 is 1.111 6th gear so the close ratio must be closer to 1.00.

Quasi, here is a gearing spreadsheet I use. Got it off a TL1000 site and just punched in the numbers to suit. Theres probably better ones out there but this does it for me.

Another thing to keep in mind when changing sprockets is how it affects your chain length (and wheelbase). I try to keep mine no more than 2 links each way....well I have to otherwise I'll need a longer chain!

TwoSeven
14th October 2005, 10:04
At the moment Im on a 13 front and a 47 rear, I changed the front down one toothe as I was not able to give it a full rpm assault in 6th gear on the back straight of puke, as well as I hoped for a better launch.
Im thinking i will try the 13 on a test day and swap it to a 14 as well to see the differences.

Moving from a 13 to a 14 will give you less driving force, again another 0.2kN (about 7% per tooth). But again you will get an increase in top speed in each gear (roughly 7-8% difference). So back to 60kmph and 100kmph as your change points.

Out of interest, if the start and a corner only make up say 2% of the race - why try and tune the bike for it ?

TwoSeven
14th October 2005, 10:24
On the torque thing. I generally work using driving force, which is what it says it is. Its also measured on a scale - so easier to use, since each gear is a unit on the scale. I use power (it BTUs) when I am thinking engine internals (piston, zorst) etc) and I use power (bhp) when I think engine internals (rods/crank/zorst) and torque when I am thinking the shape of the power delivery (gear box, zorst). Thats just my way of doing it - I find it easy to visualise things that way.

You get things like 1st = 2.55kN, 2nd=1.85kN ... 6th=0.94kN etc using driving force. Its good to use when you are trying to work out the effects of change - hence the sprocket changes above I gave in kN and percentages. Biggest problem I have is trying to work out what each figure feels like in real life - it involves riding lots of bikes to get a feel for the characteristics.

Some things are obvious tho, 0.94kN in 6th gear is why it takes 20 miles to increase speed 10mph. Whereas 2.55kN means it doe it in a knats whisker of a blink of an eye.

cowpoos
14th October 2005, 10:43
For an engine:

Torque = Force x Distance
Power = Torque x Angular Velocity

Torque is how much meat your crankshaft has to turn with, the turning force creating by the piston exploding downward, which is a product of the force created by the explosion times the radius of your crankshaft.

And power is the product of that happening at speed.

You can have huge torque but because it's not revving all that highly when the highest torque is created you don't have alot of power, while with less torque happening at a shitload higher revs you can get more power. Essentially any form of "power" is the work done in a certain time frame, so here you can almost think about it as more power = more torque per second. Not strictly correct that last bit but a good way to visualise it.

This all then means that with more torque you have more resistance against being slowed (tractors), while with more power you have more acceleration (anything with high revs; dragsters/F1/etc).

Now go to bed.

80% correct.....rep dispatched :niceone:

Two Smoker
14th October 2005, 17:56
piff....you ride like a girl....

hehehe, so do you....

FROSTY
14th October 2005, 19:06
At the moment Im on a 13 front and a 47 rear, I changed the front down one toothe as I was not able to give it a full rpm assault in 6th gear on the back straight of puke, as well as I hoped for a better launch.
Im thinking i will try the 13 on a test day and swap it to a 14 as well to see the differences.
Quazi--honestly mate that just screams WRONG to me --see if ya can borrow a 15 and a 16 or maybee a 45 rear --I think you're gonna run outa revs before the kink with that 13 on

Quasievil
14th October 2005, 19:21
Quazi--honestly mate that just screams WRONG to me --see if ya can borrow a 15 and a 16 or maybee a 45 rear --I think you're gonna run outa revs before the kink with that 13 on

I got a 44 rear, and a 14 front but Im thinking of putting that 14 back on and dropping the 13. I might put the 44 back on as well, thats original spec then (I think)

FROSTY
14th October 2005, 19:25
Yea well Id go back to stock gearing and start experimenting from there.
although one thing is --a front sprocket is a shit load easier to change than a rear.

Quasievil
14th October 2005, 19:28
Yea well Id go back to stock gearing and start experimenting from there.
although one thing is --a front sprocket is a shit load easier to change than a rear.

yeah mate hearing you there

FROSTY
14th October 2005, 19:30
Just remeber come trace day quazi--follow baby bikies ideals-- :devil2:

thealmightytaco
14th October 2005, 20:57
All i know is your bike has fuck all of any of that :Pokey:

Now you go to bed

You aint wrong there, but it's enough for now. The NSR will be up and running shortly though...

Still, how schlock my bike may be has little to do with how right I am.

Man I'm cocky today. Got my feathers out!

thealmightytaco
14th October 2005, 21:03
80% correct.....rep dispatched :niceone:

Only 80% you jumped up little shit! Stop wasting time and reveal all then! Try and fein knowing the answer by telling people who do know the answer how right you think they are till you hear what you wanna!

But cheers for the rep, I like you guy. Quite frankly I'm gettin' a little too high on my horse anyways, I need the humility.

Hows that for bipolar.

White trash
16th October 2005, 07:13
Nice gains at the top end. What I don't understand is why the graph is in MPH and not RPM.


Exactly my thought. It is interesting to know that it'll do over 100mph in 4th gear though.

Can I have another crack Quas? :devil2:

White trash
16th October 2005, 07:17
If the races were longer were of decent length, say, 15laps, I'd say go back to stock gearing too. But only for Puke. 400SPs have rediculously tall 1st gear. They're actually geared to do 120kph in 1st. Ever tried to get one moving? With these stupid fucking 6 lap races we have here, the start is everything. Try it Quasi, if it aint running out of revs in top gear on the back straight, it don't need changing.

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 07:19
Exactly my thought. It is interesting to know that it'll do over 100mph in 4th gear though.

Can I have another crack Quas? :devil2:

Fucken Oath you can my son !!

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 07:24
If the races were longer were of decent length, say, 15laps, I'd say go back to stock gearing too. But only for Puke. 400SPs have rediculously tall 1st gear. They're actually geared to do 120kph in 1st. Ever tried to get one moving? With these stupid fucking 6 lap races we have here, the start is everything. Try it Quasi, if it aint running out of revs in top gear on the back straight, it don't need changing.

Im going to bring the 14 tooth along t the next track day and experiment a bit with speed and launching.
Youre right though these are arsholes to get going in a fast wayand require alot of skill and practice , one of those areas will be my constant challenge !

Fluffy Cat
16th October 2005, 07:42
Amen White Trash'
I think the 6 lap races are crap,more like a sprint than a race.

White trash
16th October 2005, 07:46
Fluffy/C, do you race that RS250? Might have seen you there but I'm a bit too shy to introduce myself.

TwoSeven
16th October 2005, 10:19
If the races were longer were of decent length, say, 15laps, I'd say go back to stock gearing too. But only for Puke. 400SPs have rediculously tall 1st gear. They're actually geared to do 120kph in 1st. Ever tried to get one moving? With these stupid fucking 6 lap races we have here, the start is everything. Try it Quasi, if it aint running out of revs in top gear on the back straight, it don't need changing.

Would you be able to show the proof of that 120km 1st gear statement. I get 60kph for first. 120k puts it almost in third gear as far as I can work the math.

White trash
16th October 2005, 10:34
Would you be able to show the proof of that 120km 1st gear statement. I get 60kph for first. 120k puts it almost in third gear as far as I can work the math.

I owned a 92 GSXR400SP. It did 73mph in first gear on stock gearing. I'm not the sort of person that keeps dyno charts otherwise, yes, I'd have proof. I also owned an 89 RGV250SP and even that did 90kays in 1st. My normal RGV only did 60 in 1st. Not sure but they may perform a little differently to a KZ440.

FROSTY
16th October 2005, 10:35
Quazi--PLEASE put the 14 on the front.I 100%promise you wont regret it.
What you are going to find is the whole dynamic of Pukie will have changed for you.You are going to hit the hairpin faster and once your puckering bum realises you can- you will be able to carry more speed through it and up to the hill. Ditto into Jennian -you are going to be going faster because you will be able to use top speed.I'm not argueing the start is important but to be honest unless you holeshot the practice and get a front row start you'll be rolling as the flag drops.
Mate given you are worried about getting off the line--why not do what I did and find a quiet place to just go practice ya starts.
I took Hoons advise--chest on tank in first gear -elbows out and both feet planted -drag race starts -it improved my starts on mella yella outo site.

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 11:22
Would you be able to show the proof of that 120km 1st gear statement. I get 60kph for first. 120k puts it almost in third gear as far as I can work the math.

Hi Twoseven, yeah I got no proof as such, I got the 120 kmph from when I rode it on the road and had a speedo, it definately does it first gear is massive.

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 11:23
Quazi--PLEASE put the 14 on the front.I 100%promise you wont regret it.
What you are going to find is the whole dynamic of Pukie will have changed for you.You are going to hit the hairpin faster and once your puckering bum realises you can- you will be able to carry more speed through it and up to the hill. Ditto into Jennian -you are going to be going faster because you will be able to use top speed.I'm not argueing the start is important but to be honest unless you holeshot the practice and get a front row start you'll be rolling as the flag drops.
Mate given you are worried about getting off the line--why not do what I did and find a quiet place to just go practice ya starts.
I took Hoons advise--chest on tank in first gear -elbows out and both feet planted -drag race starts -it improved my starts on mella yella outo site.

It will be done Lord Frosty, it will be done

Like the race start advise idea, will practice

FROSTY
16th October 2005, 11:29
Ya know there is something seriously fucked up about offering advise to potential race competition. :devil2:
QUAZI--changed my mind--you needa 10 toooth front and a 52 tooth rear.
Use shinko tyres undoo all the work that Gary did and put the stock shocks back in. :niceone: :niceone:
Ohh and watch out for turn 1 at taupo --its SLIPPERY.
hehehehehehehehehehehe
hey are ya gonna be a t Taupo on the 13th??
should be good solid club level racing.
I'm gonna get ballsy and do F2 and F3
If ya do then 13 may be the way to go.

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 13:36
:devil2:
QUAZI--changed my mind--you needa 10 toooth front and a 52 tooth rear.
Use shinko tyres undoo all the work that Gary did and put the stock shocks back in.


Okay, I got those size sprockets from my mate, so putting them on now, I will get some shinkos tomorrow , Thanks alot mate its real nice of you to adopt a novice like me.

FROSTY
16th October 2005, 16:22
smartass :devil2:

Quasievil
16th October 2005, 16:24
smartass :devil2:

I will be bringing in those race fairings for your new Ducati racebike tomorrow to mate