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HippityDoopity
9th November 2018, 15:01
Hello KB,

I have decided that I want to start riding a bike and I have some questions that you guys can hopefully help me answer:

I intend to buy a sport bike to commute around Auckland, i am not expecting to have any day trips or going from city to city.

I have a budget of 3k to 4k for a bike and I have done some research that most people should start with a 300cc bike such as the ninja 300 or R3,
however from what I have seen on trademe, those bikes are out of my budget range, even the used ones unless they are very old say 2008 models.
Would it be worth it to invest in those bikes given my use case?

I have seen a brand new GSXR150 that is within my budget, however I am wary of buying a new bike as I might drop/crash it being a new rider. Furthermore, would a 150cc
bike be suitable for my use case?

I am fairly short at 160cm ,would this make it difficult for me to learn to ride as I heard its important to be able to put both feet on the ground when stopping.


Thank you so much for answering my questions

Hoonicorn
9th November 2018, 18:08
I found a tidy looking cruiser 150cc. They have lower seats which are good for shorter people and no sportsbike fairings to get scuffed up when you fall over in your parents driveway :P cheaper to insure too.

check it out anyway:Honda GLC150 Shadow 150 LAMS 2017


https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/cruiser/auction-1830506426.htm?rsqid=a71d01f2deef485ba612e1b80bc04 39d

If it's for getting around town a 150 is OK, but they can only just manage motorway speeds. A friend of mine had a CB125 and rode it from Wellington to Palmerston North so it can be done but you want a 300 for city to city really. But anyway, you should consider other bike styles, not just sports bikes. If its a 150cc it's not really a sports bike anyway.

jellywrestler
9th November 2018, 20:44
buy something that can keep up with traffic at the very least.

rambaldi
10th November 2018, 12:30
I would recommend staying away from the 150cc bikes. They are still bikes but if you step up to at least a 250cc then you will have a much better time on the motorway. I really like the VTR250 (what I originally learnt on) but so long as you don't get a clapped out GN250 or Scorpion most of the bikes in that segment are pretty decent. Just watch out for the older inline 4 cylinder bikes, due to the pre-LAMS requirements most of those have been fucked pretty hard. '08 isn't too far back, if the bike has been looked after and stored properly it will still be decent but things like the forks may be getting pitted if the bike was stored outside near the sea. A lot of bikes tend to not get ridden too much, so there are usually plenty out there that are in decent condition even if they are a bit old.

WALRUS
12th November 2018, 08:42
they are very old say 2008 models.

Oh please, that ain't old! :P

I learned on a GPX/EX250, which was the predecessor to the now infamous Ninja 250 (same engine, even) and then evolved into the Ninja 300 (and more recently, 400.. Gee, learners bikes are just getting bigger and bigger)


I have seen a brand new GSXR150 that is within my budget, however I am wary of buying a new bike as I might drop/crash it being a new rider. Furthermore, would a 150cc
bike be suitable for my use case?

I mean, if you're just planning on inner-city commuting, a 150 might not be so bad, if you're just bopping along through the 'burbs and the CBD. But, truth be told, if you're going to do that and get a low capacity bike, you may as well get a 125 or 150 scooter or something, much more appropriate IMHO for that application (and scooters around cities are possibly some of the most fun I've ever had on two wheels).

As Jellywrestler said, get something that can keep up (easily) with the traffic of wherever you'll be riding. A 250 sounds like it might be the way to go for you, especially considering your budget. Have a look at some Ninjas, CBR250R singles (the newer ones, not the 80's and 90's ones unless you know what to look out for), maybe a VTR250 or something? Check out faired bikes and naked bikes, have a look at some motard/road trails or dual sports, even cruisers; You never know what might take your fancy when you see it in the flesh and have a sit on it. I'd suggest sticking with something Japanese though to start out on. Nice and reliable!


Just watch out for the older inline 4 cylinder bikes, due to the pre-LAMS requirements most of those have been fucked pretty hard.

This is so true. If you find yourself leaning toward an MC19, MC22, FZR or ZXR250, you'll have a tonne of fun but unfortunately the vast majority have spent most of their lives being ragged around by teenagers, redlining everywhere, and/or stacked so I wouldn't count them out, just be wary and check them out before you buy them.



Oh, and one last thing.. Do. Not. Get. Tempted. By. Cheap. Price. Hyosungs!

sidecar bob
12th November 2018, 08:50
I have a Kawasaki GPZ500s that has come up for sale unexpectedly, as I now own the full set of 5 early model GSXR 400's instead.
It's a LAMS twin cylinder & very easy to ride, new tyres.
What's your budget like?

Navy Boy
13th November 2018, 07:42
Another bike worth considering, if you can stray from the sportsbike style a bit, is the Suzuki Inazuma. Secondhand examples are within your price bracket (Indeed they're not much more new) and it is a popular commuter/road bike.

Proven mechanicals and some 20-odd Bhp means that it has enough to sustain motorway speeds with a little in reserve. You can also fit luggage to them if you're looking to carry bits and pieces at a later date. Also with it being a bit more old fashioned than the latest V-Strom 250 and other small adventure-style bikes the price is proportionally lower.

OddDuck
13th November 2018, 08:17
Good advice above. +1 on the Ninja 300, Honda VTR250, really any LAMs bike these days. Avoid Hyosung and CF Moto (assuming they do LAMS bikes of course), definitely avoid pre-LAMs 250's, no matter how cheap any of these are. Last thing you need in the learner phase is a bike that breaks down.

Some other things...

Tyres: must be younger than 5 years. Rubber goes off with time. Young rubber gives you progressive warnings before it's about to let go, old rubber just lets go suddenly. There's a DOM code on sidewalls so it's possible to directly read how old the tyres are.

Storage: a garage is best but you can get by with a cover outside. Weather and salt will kill your bike for sure if it's just left out in the open.

Ride Forever courses - yes they can be a hassle to arrange and get to but I can't recommend these enough - they'll make you a better rider and make your riding more fun while you're at it.

Gear: you haven't mentioned riding gear, what is your budget and plans here? I see all types on the roads (including no helmet :oi-grr: ), obviously it's possible to spend silly money on riding gear but you don't have to pony up that much these days to get a decent set of functional riding kit.

Maintenance: how much of your own work do you want, need, or have to do? The absolute basics are keeping the bike clean, lubing and tensioning the chain, maybe basic servicing like valve clearances, filter changes, oil changes. I hope this doesn't put you off. It's way easier to work on most bikes than it is to work on most cars and if you can do these then you can save yourself a lot of money over the years.

HippityDoopity
13th November 2018, 14:04
Gear: you haven't mentioned riding gear, what is your budget and plans here? I see all types on the roads (including no helmet :oi-grr: ), obviously it's possible to spend silly money on riding gear but you don't have to pony up that much these days to get a decent set of functional riding kit.

Maintenance: how much of your own work do you want, need, or have to do? The absolute basics are keeping the bike clean, lubing and tensioning the chain, maybe basic servicing like valve clearances, filter changes, oil changes. I hope this doesn't put you off. It's way easier to work on most bikes than it is to work on most cars and if you can do these then you can save yourself a lot of money over the years.

I plan to spend 1k on gear. motomail has the starter kit for 1000, so I was planning on going with that as it includes everything.


Im not much of a mechanical person, but I am keen to learn. How hard/easy would it be mess up basic maintenance like valve clearances, filter changes etc?

Also thank you for the great advice everyone

Blackbird
13th November 2018, 15:08
Ride Forever courses - yes they can be a hassle to arrange and get to but I can't recommend these enough - they'll make you a better rider and make your riding more fun while you're at it.


High quality coaching reduces the risk of serious harm, turns you into a better rider and increases the fun factor - what's not to like? Good links: https://www.rideforever.co.nz/ for info on training, tips and buying gear and bikes.

Coaching in south Auckland: https://www.passmasters.nz/home . Coaching in west Auckland: http://www.riderskills.co.nz/ . There are others, but these are the only ones I have personal knowledge of, and are outstanding.

OddDuck
14th November 2018, 07:35
Im not much of a mechanical person, but I am keen to learn. How hard/easy would it be mess up basic maintenance like valve clearances, filter changes etc?

Well - depends on how handy you are. Just about anyone can do the basics. The main thing I'd say at this point is start small. Keep it manageable. If you take the attitude that the job will take as long as it needs to, and you don't mind stopping work to go and get tools or supplies or information, you'll be OK. Obviously try to prep as much as you can before starting any work, but there's always something along the way... bodging and shortcuts is where it goes wrong.

Cadbury
14th November 2018, 15:53
I agree with the suggestions to look to 250cc bikes, for their ease of keeping up with open road speeds.

Regarding mechanical stuff, you should consider doing the oil and filter changes, and if you want to go further there will usually be some great online forums devoted to specific models where you can get lots of great advice from people who own the same model. If you do go further, invest in a decent torque wrench and find the right torque values for common things like the oil drain plug, it is one of those "wouldn't want that to come loose while riding" items that can easily be stripped with too much force, and that leads to an expensive repair.

GazzaH
14th November 2018, 18:18
I've learnt to do mechanical stuff over the years by giving it a go, watching/helping/being helped by pals, studying Haynes manuals and browsing the web ... in that order. I've also invested in professional servicing and maintenance for the important safety-critical stuff which, for me, given my 'skills', seems sensible. You need to figure that out for yourself.

As I get older and more experienced, I'm enjoying the mechanical stuff more. Tinkering in the workshop is something I look forward to - it's fun! I wish I'd done more evening classes when I had the chance. I'm glad I'm still fit enough to do it, and have a workshop to play in. With a sufficiency of tools.

Luckily I don't make mistakes. I experience plenty of first-hand learning and improvement opportunities though. Knowing that's how it is for me is a key part of my 'experience'. :wacko:

Fresh Oats
16th November 2018, 06:53
I dunno how good it is, but the DUKE 200 might be an option. Sporty, looks good, has more grunt than a 150cc and isn't $8-9K like a ninja.

$1,000 seems a little steep to me in regards to gear. Yea, you can easily spend way more than that (I'm sure most guys here probably have a jacket alone worth around that much) but I mean you can also do it cheaper.
My helmet was around $120 (like 8 years ago mind you), my jacket was $150, my gloves $50 and you can probably pick up pants for a similar price to the jacket. If you plan to ride in the winter, get winter gloves though, trust me.