Metal Oxidation advice

[Vaderham]

Hi all!

This is my first post here, pleased to meet you all.

I'm after a bit of advice. I'm a bit of an amateur mechanic and have come into an old Yamaha XJ650 that has spent some years out in the weather here in Wellington.

As a result, the engine and rear drum brake housing are pretty extensively oxidised. I understand this will never be returned to it's former glory, but I'm wondering if anyone has encountered this before and how you went about remedying the problem to make it a tad more sightly?

Seems there are mixed opinions around on the best way to handle this, so looking for some first hand advice. Many thanks!

You can see some photos here (WARNING: The bike is in a bad way!) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ywWpV09euhON0ejCAdY6H88JzHhWKHcU

[Grumph]

While I can't see the pics I've got a good imagination...and I've been there before.
Vapourblasting will actually restore bare alloy to better than the as new finish.
But it's an engine strip job to do.

Some will tell you do the complete assembled engine with soda blasting. Fine if you're painting it.
If it's bare or clearcoated, it won't remove stains.

[pete376403]

Its a worry that the airbox to carb boots are missing. The interior of the carbs is probably as bad as the exterior. Nothing like a challenge, though, post progress reports.

[AllanB]

When you say left outside, you mean on the waterfront ....


Depends on your plans for the bike. It's worth piss all in that condition and will be time consuming and potentially expensive to restore.

The rear brake hub is pretty easy to clean up - disassembly followed by increasingly finer grades of wet and dry sandpaper ending in a 1500 grade followed by a good buff with alloy polish will have you seeing your face in the reflection.

If it's a runner and safe you could get it in good road going condition and just embrace the rat bike theme

[FJRider]

The oxidation wont stop it from running ... nor will it feature in any legal requirement to get it on the road.

Put time effort and money into the oxidation later. Make it pretty later ... make sure it goes first.

[Vaderham]

Thanks guys!

Good advice all around.

The bike definitely runs, I've jsut recently had the engine running in the state it's in, and now I'm assured that its does I feel like I can move forwards.

pete376403, thankfully I have all the boots and I had them off in that picture so I could easily get the starter motor cable routed. These definitely do need to go back on quickly though. I don't live too near the ocean, but still probably not wise to have them exposed aye?

I've heard that you can use an acid treatment to stop the oxidation. Any thoughts on that? I suppose stopping it from progressing further is what I'd like to do at this stage.

In saying that, I think your thoughts have helped me reassess my next priorities guys. Need to forget about how it looks for now and make it safe!

Will post updates as I go.

[Laava]

This is a product that fussy people use to stop corrosion or prevent it in the first place. Have not used it myself but you could google it?
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/lubricants-coolants/listing-1859923784.htm?rsqid=6ff85e72b0ef4b2980d8e682ae14f d78

[Vaderham]

This is a product that fussy people use to stop corrosion or prevent it in the first place. Have not used it myself but you could google it?
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/lubricants-coolants/listing-1859923784.htm?rsqid=6ff85e72b0ef4b2980d8e682ae14f d78

That actually looks like it could be a good call, Laava. Might give it a crack and report back on how it goes.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I might give it a crack on my trailer which is mild steel and powdercoated. Ten years of abuse (leaving it out in all weathers) have ruined the powdercoat. I was going to disassemble it next winter and get all the structural parts zinc plated... but this might be useful in the meantime. I could get another five years out of 'er!

[mulletman]

I might give it a crack on my trailer which is mild steel and powdercoated. Ten years of abuse (leaving it out in all weathers) have ruined the powdercoat. I was going to disassemble it next winter and get all the structural parts zinc plated... but this might be useful in the meantime. I could get another five years out of 'er!

Ahem , is said trailer suitable to haul a roadbike and hireable ?

[george formby]

This is the most succinct test I found for ACF50. Hereitbe (http://f2mcltd.blogspot.com/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html).

Strikes me that it is a very good preventative. A few tests comment that rust formed can be removed easier than other products tested.

If nothing else, it should inhibit any further rusting.

Still gonna need something mechanical if you want shiny, shiny I feel.

I may look into this ACF 50, trailers have been mentioned and waxoyl is filthy! The nuts on me ride on are looking a bit the worse for wear, too.