Please help me, my litle Hyosung has a strange clicking

[GeTee]

Hey guys i hope you could help me!
First of all, my bike is 2004 GT250 Carby with 57,000km last time it was serviced at 37,000km it had the front headgasket replaced and a carburetor syncron, and had a valve clearence check and adjustment at 32,000km.

Last summer my bike once turned off for a sec about at 120km/h, it didnt seized or anything like that because my wheel didnt lock up, it was something like a missing spark or i dont know what... since that the bike has a strange noise around 4500-5000 rpm, approx 50-60kph in third. This noise / sound is like a rithmic ticking it's not getting faster or louder as the RPM raise, and this noise is only appears after the bike is totally warmed up, so i ride about 25-30km without any issue and after that this little irritating ticking noise appearing The bike has its full power, it has a good compression (Both cylinder 170 or more PSi, i think its totally good for a smaller bike thats as old as mine).

Things i know atm about the noise:

The noise is coming from the left side of the bike.

It has nothing to do with the clutch, if i pull the clutch the noise is present, if i dont the noise is still present... So i think its not a clutch bearing or basket problem.

I cant hear this noise at Idle or when the bike is revved in neutral, only when im on the road and riding, but when its get enough warm i can hear the noise when i pull the clutch and rev it too.

I've already changed oil (Motul 7100, i think its a fine full sint oil), oil filter(Champion filter), air filter (Vicma airfilter like OEM one), spark plugs (CR8E -> but in DENSO atm i don know the densos number but its the factory equal of ngk cr8e), i hoped maybe one of them may fix that, but nah...

The bike has a bit erratic idle, idle is somewhere between 1300 and 1600 it walks a bit... (Intake manifolds are new so it cant be an air leak there)

If i pull in the clutch at higher speed, and im not changing gear immidiately and let out the clutch the bike some times turn down, the RPM fall under Idle to around 800 / min then its turning down after that i can restart it again without any problem... (It happens mostly when the weather is colder)


Please help me out with some ideas guys, what it could be? (Here are some videos:)

This is a cold start after almost two weeks without starting, it runs with some choke on the bike is running around 2500rpm:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tjGs77M8reCCfM5FSWr4Zkrm8dVMQ-4S/view?usp=sharing
And this is a video when the engine is totally warm, after a longer ride:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15UCBq77DOFFXkQJv_cvIbDclJRv-HanO/view?usp=sharing

Is she sounds normal at idle? What could be this little noise ? And why am i only hearing it when the bike is running in gear ? What is on the left side except generator ? Or it could be the front cylinders top area ? (It has a new CCT, i installed it last spring)


Thanks!

Im in a realy hard situation... i often think about to chage this bike for a bigger but possibly i will go for university and i wont have money to keep up a bigger bike, and we had too many adventure together I prefer to fix the little Hyo for the next years instead change it...

Just in case if u dont know those bikes, they are air oil cooled dohc 8 valve Vtwins, and they are notorius for failing cam chain tensioner thats why i mentioned the front one is a new one.


Thanks for the help!

[sidecar bob]

I have seen the starter clutch bush seize on one of these, it caused a short power loss as it accelerated the starter to engine speed.
That one resulted in the starter armature blowing to bits from the forces.
It's just a bronze bush & prone to wear.

[FJRider]

20,000 km's since a service ... ??? :scratch:

[GeTee]

I have seen the starter clutch bush seize on one of these, it caused a short power loss as it accelerated the starter to engine speed.
That one resulted in the starter armature blowing to bits from the forces.
It's just a bronze bush & prone to wear.

Wow thanks, can i test or check it somehow without a total teardown?
Have you listened the videos ? Do you hear anything that shouldnt be there ?


I would update the infos, maybe i got whats wrong with the bike but just maybe, i take out the front cylinder's cam chain tensioner, reset is it is all the way out i couldnt give it just a quarter turn with a screw driver soo my cam chain in the front cylinder is done this one thing is for sure. But the bike doesnt have any really strange noise when its idle or revved in neutral. How is this possible? Or the chain isnt totally worn, but its ready for a chain change or what? But the tensioner is all the way out to give enough or barely(?) enough tension? :drool:

... a D.I.D cam chain is just 30$ i will replace it but i can only hope that this noise is caused by a loose cam chain.

I would be happy if i can get more ideas! Thank you guys! :niceone:

[GeTee]

20,000 km's since a service ... ??? :scratch:

Offcourse i always changed sparks, oil, filters etc, carburetors were fine until now, but you are right i had to check the valve clearences around 40-45k kms. :(

[actungbaby]

Chould be cam chain. Or tappets geez am old dont think people call them that. Valve clearances.

Sent from my SOV31 using Tapatalk

[buggerit]

Tried running it in the dark once the clicking has started? May show any shorts in the HT leads, worth a shot.

[Hoonicorn]

Left side sounds could be alternator. Right side would be cam chain.

[GeTee]

Left side sounds could be alternator. Right side would be cam chain.



Alternator? How could be the generator noisy? And why is it only give a noise when the bike is warm?

I have no cam chain on the right side, the front cylinder's CCT is on the left side, and the rear cylinder sounds normal.



Eh im just scared i dont know how much will it cost to me... And my mech could only check my bike around march 23-30... :(




Thanks for the ideas, tomorrow i will try to test it when its dark out there.
What should i look after? Spark plugs or coils or what should i see or i shouldnt?

[FJRider]

... the front cylinder's CCT is on the left side ...

Cam chain tensioner's are renown for their clicking sound ... and don't try to tell me it's an automatic tensioner and wont need adjusting. Springs only last so long before ... :pinch:

For a little 250 ... the km's on your's is getting pretty high ... and if that chain gets enough slack ... :shit: :blink: :confused: :facepalm: :angry2:

[GeTee]

Cam chain tensioner's are renown for their clicking sound ... and don't try to tell me it's an automatic tensioner and wont need adjusting. Springs only last so long before ... :pinch:

For a little 250 ... the km's on your's is getting pretty high ... and if that chain gets enough slack ... :shit: :blink: :confused: :facepalm: :angry2:

Yesterday evenning i called my mech i told him whats going on he suspect the front cam chain. Btw I checked the tensioner it looks like the new one on the shelves, offcourse i could only check it via compress it hand, but it doesnt stopped or stucked and needed a good amount press to keep it in place.




57 thousand km's high run for a two cylinder 250?
Oh woa, u havent seen hungarian bikes yet havent you? My bike is now around the middle or on the "newer" side of the used bikes, there are plenty of GS500, Er5, CB500 with "only" "33 thousand km" , yeah a pre 2000 bike with half of my run seriously right? We only ride 3 thousand km in a year. ;) I prefer a bike where i know how much does it run and the clock is not manipulated.


Soo do u advice to sell this little GT?
Cause i cant buy a newer bike if i sell it and im lucky i will get almost 390 thousand Huf for it for example a 2006 yamaha MT03 with ~33K km in the click is around ~900K - 1,1M Huf, i dont realy have the option to change this bike. :wait: Not during my school years. (last year of high school maybe university at the next year)
And a new cylinder and a piston + ring set for this bike is only 50k Huf, a new crankshaft just 58K Huf. Soo do u feel how cheap is to maintain a Hyosung? :psst::banana:



Btw we had checked compressions at 50 thousand kms, front cyl 170 psi, rear one 171psi not bad at all! Actually my mech said they are very good results and he think this engine may have a couple of goos year left.


Sorry didnt wanted to write a book... :rolleyes:
Thats funny that when i write at the morning its night there...

Thanks the help guys!!

But how can i check the strator / alternator if its the source of the noise?
If its a CCT problem that this bike is known for i will order an Apex manual tensioner couldnt be soo hard to adjust it, does it?

[sidecar bob]

If its a CCT problem that this bike is known for i will order an Apex manual tensioner couldnt be soo hard to adjust it, does it?

If the auto tensioner can't do it, I doubt you can do it better.
Usually a manual tensioner results in an over tightened chain & knackered tensioner bow & chain in short order unless you set it up with a degree wheel & re do it every so often.
I wonder if Grumph agrees.

[FJRider]

Yesterday evenning i called my mech i told him whats going on he suspect the front cam chain. Btw I checked the tensioner it looks like the new one on the shelves, offcourse i could only check it via compress it hand, but it doesnt stopped or stucked and needed a good amount press to keep it in place.

You are on here asking for suggestions ... and argue and question/ignore advice from "Your mech" ... as well as the corresponding advice on here. As no doubt many on here will now ignore you. Also please translate .. "doesnt stopped or stucked and needed a good amount press to keep it in place" ... ??? It may not be slack, just needing replaced. A regular service by qualified people pick these issues up and fix it (or at least TELL YOU about it. And give recommendation's.


But how can i check the strator / alternator if its the source of the noise?

Take it to a mechanic. OR ... cut off a short length of garden hose (500mm will be enough). Stick one end at your ear and the other end at the left-hand side of the motor. This is the stethoscope method. It DOES work. Let us know what you find ... :msn-wink:


If its a CCT problem that this bike is known for i will order an Apex manual tensioner couldnt be soo hard to adjust it, does it?

Not just YOUR model gets a CCT clatter. Your bike is NOT special in this regard. Or any other regard.

Get a Workshop manual for it first. Or google it like every other dumb bugger that has with a bike with engine issues ... :laugh:

[Paul in NZ]

Does the noise vary with engine speed or road speed? Sounds like road speed??

[Scubbo]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krPQ1PMM00Y

[GeTee]

Thanks guys for the help!
The noise isnt getting louder as the rpm rises.
And yes I only hear this high frequenc ticking while Im cruising with road speed (50-60kph), thats around 4500-5000rpm.

Yesterday i checked the bike's charging, after I warmed up the bike, and let it idling the charge was around 12,6-12,7V on 1400-1500rpm idle. (Without lights)
With lights it charged around 12,4-12,5V, if I revved the bike it was around 13,5V at ~5000-5500 RPM.

It's way too low, now Im trying to figuring out how to check the wires. (Maybe just a burned wire or connector I dont know.)
I wont able to check the generator without removing the sidecover, but I will let this for my mech at the next weekend. (I dont really want to change oil just too take a look at the generator then put back the sidecover and fill up with oil again.)

The interesting thing is that I've never heard about a 250 Hyosung that has / had anykind of charging issues....


If we have to change the generator should we change the Regulator/Rectifier too ?