Testing rectifier on a Street Triple R 2011

[BikingBrit]

Hi there, I've been having problems keeping my battery charged on my Triple R 2011 and hoped to get some insight from someone who knows more than I do.

I have bought a new battery but the problem remained. I'm really not that good with electrics, but I did a diode test (following some youtube videos) and with the positive probe on the negative connectioni was getting a reading in the 500's on all pins in the connector, but with the negative probe on the positive connection i was getting a reading in the 130's on all pins (note my diode tester shows readings differently, e.g. as 138 not as 0.138). Does this imply the rectifier is the problem? Thanks.

[Blackbird]

Hi there, I've been having problems keeping my battery charged on my Triple R 2011 and hoped to get some insight from someone who knows more than I do.

I have bought a new battery but the problem remained. I'm really not that good with electrics, but I did a diode test (following some youtube videos) and with the positive probe on the negative connectioni was getting a reading in the 500's on all pins in the connector, but with the negative probe on the positive connection i was getting a reading in the 130's on all pins (note my diode tester shows readings differently, e.g. as 138 not as 0.138). Does this imply the rectifier is the problem? Thanks.

Can't help you with the testing but are you aware that Street Triples around that time were subject to a world wide recall and had their rectifiers replaced free of charge? Have you had the bike from new? If you bought it second hand, it might be worth getting an authorised dealer to check whether it's been done. I had a 2009 Triple which had a free replacement. You can see what the new rectifier looks like here:
http://geoffjames.blogspot.com/2012/08/rectification-and-rapid-ride.html

[BikingBrit]

Can't help you with the testing but are you aware that Street Triples around that time were subject to a world wide recall and had their rectifiers replaced free of charge? Have you had the bike from new? If you bought it second hand, it might be worth getting an authorised dealer to check whether it's been done. I had a 2009 Triple which had a free replacement. You can see what the new rectifier looks like here:
http://geoffjames.blogspot.com/2012/08/rectification-and-rapid-ride.html

Bought it second hand, I highly doubt I'd get one free of charge if I took it into a Triumph dealer. Either way, it looks identical to the one that's in the picture - so perhaps it has been done already?

[SaferRides]

Check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should stay at 14.something as you increase the revs. If it drops as the revs go up, then the rectifier is stuffed.

[BikingBrit]

Check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should stay at 14.something as you increase the revs. If it drops as the revs go up, then the rectifier is stuffed.

I've checked this and the voltage goes up with the revs, but by the end of the ride the battery voltage still drops - eventually draining the battery enough to where the bike won't start (checked before and after a ride). Could this still be the rectifier causing the issue? It can't be the battery as this was happening with my old battery and now my new one too.

[Owl]

This may help.

https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

[Blackbird]

Bought it second hand, I highly doubt I'd get one free of charge if I took it into a Triumph dealer. Either way, it looks identical to the one that's in the picture - so perhaps it has been done already?

The original rectifiers were positioned down the axis of the bike and the replacements were transverse to get better cooling. That's probably the best indicator whether it's been done or not.

[SaferRides]

I've checked this and the voltage goes up with the revs, but by the end of the ride the battery voltage still drops - eventually draining the battery enough to where the bike won't start (checked before and after a ride). Could this still be the rectifier causing the issue? It can't be the battery as this was happening with my old battery and now my new one too.That does sound like the rectifier, I had the same thing with the R1 a few years ago. But a failed rectifier can also take out the stator depending on the bike. That's easy to check - details are in the link that owl posted. He has used a lot of words to describe what is a simple check though!

[Temporary-Kiwi]

with the bike running, test the voltage at the battery, if it is going over 13.8, but not higher than 14.5, then your charging system is probably working correctly
if you leave the bike sitting overnight does the voltage drop ? , does the voltage drop with the key on (more than say.1-.5 volt)over a small period e.g 1 hr, if it does in either case you probably have a short circuit, inspect all wiring that you can, to see if any have been rubbed on frame or crushed, if you can't find it , take it to a auto electician, they should be able to locate it

[F5 Dave]

You can unplug the stator and measure the AC from each wire go ground. That will tell you if the stator is ok and they are a little weak. Also that plug melts in fault conditions. I've crimped mine.


To take the tank off some thin pliers with ends bent in like a pincher will help depress the quick release connector which can be a swine to get off. Add a little grease next time it's easy. Someone to hold the tank is best.

[BikingBrit]

Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to mention that when I checked the plugs going to the rectifier they had some kind of grease in the connectors, implying that someone had problems with the rectifier before? I'm guessing this grease helps with connectivity?

I also did another test on the battery while running - I got 13.07 volts on the battery before starting the bike, while running it idles at 12.45v, and with giving it gas it wouldn't go up very high, at 6k RPM it got to 12.93v but at that point the bike gets really loud and I didn't really want to push the rpm up more. I did this for about 30s, and after turning the bike off the battery voltage was at 12.88 (so lost a little bit after only a few seconds). Does this sound more like a rectifier problem? I have yet to check the stator.

Cheers,

[F5 Dave]

It could really be either. Grease is normal.

[pete376403]

Dielectric grease - "silicon greases are electrically insulating and are often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of sealing and protecting the connector. In this context they are often referred to as dielectric grease". (Wikipedia)

From the voltage readings you are getting the battery is not being charged by the alternator and the voltage is going down as the revs rise because of the additional load from the ignition .

With the alternator plug disconnected meter each lead to ground with the meter on AC. Voltage should rise with revs. The service manual should detail the spec, for example my Suzuki should have about 70VAC at 6000 RPM. If all three phases have about the same output the alternator is probably ok and you should be looking at the R/R.

Could also be a stuffed battery. (edit, but you got a new battery so not that)

[BikingBrit]

Dielectric grease - "silicon greases are electrically insulating and are often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of sealing and protecting the connector. In this context they are often referred to as dielectric grease". (Wikipedia)

From the voltage readings you are getting the battery is not being charged by the alternator and the voltage is going down as the revs rise because of the additional load from the ignition .

With the alternator plug disconnected meter each lead to ground with the meter on AC. Voltage should rise with revs. The service manual should detail the spec, for example my Suzuki should have about 70VAC at 6000 RPM. If all three phases have about the same output the alternator is probably ok and you should be looking at the R/R.

Could also be a stuffed battery. (edit, but you got a new battery so not that)

Thanks for the info guys, will test the stator tomorrow. I wiped a lot of the grease off the connectors when I checked them before, should I go buy some and re-apply, or is it not really necessary? Cheers

[SaferRides]

Thanks for the info guys, will test the stator tomorrow. I wiped a lot of the grease off the connectors when I checked them before, should I go buy some and re-apply, or is it not really necessary? CheersAs already said, dielectric grease is an insulator. It will do nothing to improve the connections. Very good stuff for spark plug boots to seal them and make the boot easier to remove.

Deoxit is good for connectors. Jaycar have it, but you'll have to clean the grease off first. I've also heard Good Things about the Wurth battery terminal stuff.

[F5 Dave]

I got more from Jaycar. Bear in mind where it sits and that in the UK they salt their winter roads

[BikingBrit]

So I tested the rectifier (again) and stator following the steps shown here (https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html) and here are the results:

The rectifier seemed to pass the 'cold' resistance test.
The stator seemed to pass the resistance test, testing from each pin (1-2, 2-3, 3-1). Results showed low resistance of 0.5-0.6 ohms (supposed to measure very low resistance/almost short circuit).
Don't think stator passed the second resistance test, testing from each pin to ground - results showed 0.7 ohms resistance.
Don't think stator passed the AC Voltage test, as pins 1-2 idled at 15-16 volts, 1-3 idled at around 15 volts, and 2-3 idled at around 13-14 volts. These numbers were pretty sporadic, jumping around by anywhere between 0.1-2 volts. at 5k rpm 1-2 and 1-3 were around 45 volts, while 2-3 was 30 volts. The voltage at idle also seemed to drop after increasing the RPM. The guide mentions "At idle this should be ~ 20V* and rise to ~ 70V* at 5K rpm. " so it doesn't seem my stator passed this test.

Ultimately all signs pointing to stator? I guess the next step is to open the stator cover and take a look. Anyone know where I can get a good replacement stator for a good price?

Thanks for all your help so far guys, really appreciate all the info and tips I can get.

[Blackbird]

Try Rick's Motorsports in the USA. I know they advertise the 675 version on eBay for about US $250.

[BikingBrit]

Try Rick's Motorsports in the USA. I know they advertise the 675 version on eBay for about US $250.

Thanks. I'm crying now that I realise how much this is going to cost, although I am yet to check the stator itself (but after those tests, it does seem to be the stator). I see there are chinese ones for around $100NZD, but I guess I should steer clear of those. I found a Rick's Motorsports one on ebay for $185USD + $30USD postage (from a reputable seller), even though on Rick's Motorsports website they sell it for $250USD + $60USD postage. I'm hoping it's legit because this will likely be the one I purchase. I suppose I'll have to buy a new gasket too, and may as well do an oil change since I'm going to lose some oil (its pretty much due anyway).

[SaferRides]

Bear in mind that it's often the reg/rec that takes out the stator, so make sure your bike has had the recall done.

Sorry, can't help much with replacement Triumph stators.

[Owl]

I found a Rick's Motorsports one on ebay for $185USD + $30USD postage (from a reputable seller), even though on Rick's Motorsports website they sell it for $250USD + $60USD postage.

I presume we're talking about Rick's stator 21-012? Not sure where you get that inflated price on Rick's site, but I saw it at US$184.95. You may want to look at Amazon who had 1 available from Oemcycles which is showing free shipping to NZ, so total NZ cost of $284.44 at this moment. Make sure to place any order in NZ currency to avoid a foreign currency fee. Oh there was another available at Amazon, but it was slightly dearer at US$187.50 and wasn't free shipping to NZ.

Do you have any history on your bike? Because if it has a proclivity to kill stators, you may want to look at a Series R/R.

[Jeeper]

When ordering in NZD from Amazon, you pay Amazon currency exchange rate which I have often found to be worse than what the bank credit card charges even with currency conversion fee.

[pete376403]

You could always do it yourself, or investigate getting a motor rewinder to do it locally, then spend the money saved on a Shindengen r/r ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Am7dXzVYMMk

[BikingBrit]

I presume we're talking about Rick's stator 21-012? Not sure where you get that inflated price on Rick's site, but I saw it at US$184.95. You may want to look at Amazon who had 1 available from Oemcycles which is showing free shipping to NZ, so total NZ cost of $284.44 at this moment. Make sure to place any order in NZ currency to avoid a foreign currency fee. Oh there was another available at Amazon, but it was slightly dearer at US$187.50 and wasn't free shipping to NZ.

Do you have any history on your bike? Because if it has a proclivity to kill stators, you may want to look at a Series R/R.

No history on the bike, but looking at the wires going to the stator/rectifier it doesn't seem to have been replaced (at least in recent years). In fact, there is a crimp going from the stator connector wire to the rectifier, so someone has been messing around with it in the past but probably didn't bother to replace it.

Do you think it's worth biting the bullet and just buying a new rectifier too? Although it seems that this one may be alright.

Cheers

[SaferRides]

No history on the bike, but looking at the wires going to the stator/rectifier it doesn't seem to have been replaced (at least in recent years). In fact, there is a crimp going from the stator connector wire to the rectifier, so someone has been messing around with it in the past but probably didn't bother to replace it.

Do you think it's worth biting the bullet and just buying a new rectifier too? Although it seems that this one may be alright.

CheersCan you read the part number on the reg/rec? It will be something like FH012AA. A genuine Shindengen is about US$100 from the US. eBay is full of fakes now, but there are a couple of suppliers who sell real ones.

[F5 Dave]

Electrix world in UK did us well for state for my gasgas. Made in UK but in a good way I think.

I actually did the SH847 update but maybe it's fine on the post 11 mosfet versions mine came with.

[Owl]

When ordering in NZD from Amazon, you pay Amazon currency exchange rate which I have often found to be worse than what the bank credit card charges even with currency conversion fee.

And here I was thinking I was on to a good thing.

FUCK!:brick:

[BikingBrit]

Can you read the part number on the reg/rec? It will be something like FH012AA. A genuine Shindengen is about US$100 from the US. eBay is full of fakes now, but there are a couple of suppliers who sell real ones.

Do you know where this number is located? I'm still a bit iffy about whether or not to buy a new r/r if the current one may not be faulty. But then again, I don't want to spend a fortune on a stator just to have it burn up not knowing the r/r is in fact faulty.

[F5 Dave]

Do the stator and if you are getting like 14V+ or so you'll be fine. Its printed on the reg. Heck I'll get a pic later .

[husaberg]

You would think all these issues would have ended when they stopped using Lucas.

[F5 Dave]

It's a good job Hondas of the 80s and 90s and 00s are such a shining star in this regard.

[Blackbird]

It's a good job Hondas of the 80s and 90s and 00s are such a shining star in this regard.

Haha! On my 99 Blackbird, the stator fried when touring the south island. Completed the trip with 2 batteries and a charger, using total loss ignition, with lighting circuit fuses pulled :sweatdrop. Bastard thing.

[SaferRides]

Do you know where this number is located? I'm still a bit iffy about whether or not to buy a new r/r if the current one may not be faulty. But then again, I don't want to spend a fortune on a stator just to have it burn up not knowing the r/r is in fact faulty.It's on the end opposite the connectors. The MOSFET reg/recs start with FH.

[BikingBrit]

So I got round to taking the stator cover off and it looks like 1/3 of it is pretty toasted (see pic below). I haven't managed to get the connector off the R/R so can't see what the number is, hopefully I'll get round to check it but I don't think the rectifier is faulty, so I'll just replace the stator first and see how it goes.

Thanks again for all your help guys, any tips/links to guides that might help me install the new stator would be appreciated - I'll be buying one soon.

341602

[F5 Dave]

There you go, that'll do it. As I said Electrix world in UK do good stuff and if you call them they may have distributors in Aus with stock .

Stators fry for several reasons so your job is not finished. Sometimes they are just made small as possible for cost weight and size so have a lifetime. But that makes them more prone to overload faults.

Check the plug on the stator. Any corrosion will cause the stator to work harder. I favour just crimping with bare connectors and heatshrink. Preinsulated terminals are the work of the Devil.

Then check the connector to the Regulator. Should be clean with protective dielectric grease. Also the connection to earth at the battery and at the starter solenoid hidden under the seat left hand side. Just make sure they are all shiny and do them up well.

A tired battery will cause extra strain and low engine oil extra heat. Check no one has put bigger bulbs in the headlights.

[F5 Dave]

I have one of these on my dashboard.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gammatronix-5mm-LED-12v-Battery-level-Alternator-Charge-monitor-indicator-K/202127495372?hash=item2f0fbcd0cc:g:gnwAAOSwAC1aKEk j

You set it up for a charging system (cut specified wire and connect to powered wire per simple instructions). If will flash then, as you start the bike,- will just glow green. If it starts flashing when riding then you have problems brewing.