06 GSX-R 600 Won't Start / Charging Woes?

[The End]

Hi all,

Background:
I've had my 2006 GSX-R 600 for around a year and have done approximately 5,000 kms on it. It has 25,000 kms on it total and is in overall fantastic condition. It is always stored inside a garage and the outdoor ambient temperature rarely goes below 8*c, indoor probably 12*c or higher.

When I first purchased the bike around a year ago, the first thing I did was relocate the regulator/rectifier to the side mount position, as the stock position behind the radiator/next to headers is known to cause overheating problems.

In the year I've owned it, I've never had any starting issues, never had an instance where the bike has died. There have been at least half a dozen occasions where I haven't used the bike for 2-3 weeks and when I've gone to start it, it's started immediately without issue.

The Problem:
I tried to start the bike today after not using it for around 2 and a half weeks and it immediately failed to start. The bike was left for this 2-3 week period with the key in the "off" position but key left in the ignition, killswitch in "off position" and all lights/switches off.

When trying to start it today with the key in, ignition on, in neutral and brake held in all I got was a clicking sound (the classic weak battery sound) when holding the starter button down. The fuel pump didn't prime, the gauge cluster was illuminated and the headlight was very weak.

I checked all of the fuses and they are fine.

I tried bump starting it, but it didn't work and after a few attempts the gauge cluster stopped illuminating completely.

I then used a car to jump-start it and it started fine while attached to the jumper leads; after waiting 30 seconds I then removed the jumper leads and the bike died and wouldn't start on its own.

I reconnected the jumper leads, started the bike and left it connected and running for about 2 minutes. I then removed the jumper leads and the bike continued running for about 2 minutes before it died and again, wouldn't start on its own.

I've now gone out and purchased a battery charger and am waiting for it to charge. The battery (lead acid type) is approximately 4,000 kms or around 4 years old.

Question:
Is this simply a flat battery from lack of use or is there something wrong with the charging system eg: regulator/rectifier and/or stator? If the latter, how can I go about testing these?

[sidecar bob]

It was a flat battery to start with, but you may have spiked the regulator by taking the leads off with it running & a near flat battery.
Charge the battery, check the voltage & record it, fire it up, check the voltage & record it, turn the headlamp on with it running, check the voltage & record it & come to your own conclusions.
If the battery is yellow & four years old then you have done well.

[buggerit]

4 years is 2 years longer than I got out of my last 2 yellow ones, I would replace it anyway, my thought is always for how hard the charge
circuit components are working supporting a tired battery and which is easier and cheaper to replace.

[skippa1]

New battery time

[nzspokes]

The problem is you have had a bike for a year and only done 5,000ks.

[The End]

The problem is you have had a bike for a year and only done 5,000ks.

Haha tell me about it :yes:


It was a flat battery to start with, but you may have spiked the regulator by taking the leads off with it running & a near flat battery.
Charge the battery, check the voltage & record it, fire it up, check the voltage & record it, turn the headlamp on with it running, check the voltage & record it & come to your own conclusions.
If the battery is yellow & four years old then you have done well.

Thanks, will give that a go and post back results.

It isn't a yellow Motobatt battery, looks like a "Katana YTX9-BS"

[The End]

Update:

Having charged the battery I was able to start the bike and took the following readings off the battery:

Bike off / no key inserted - 12.39 volts
Key in, ignition on, killswitch off (ie: only lights on): 11.9 volts
Key in, ignition on, killswitch on (ie: just after fuel pump has primed): 11.75 volts
Bike running, only just started - 11.75 volts

At warm temperature idle around 15 minutes after starting - 11.36 volts
At 5,000 RPM in neutral - 11.18 volts

So it sounds like the charging system isn't working correctly. What should I be doing next to diagnose things further?

[sidecar bob]

Update:

Having charged the battery I was able to start the bike and took the following readings off the battery:

Bike off / no key inserted - 12.39 volts
Key in, ignition on, killswitch off (ie: only lights on): 11.9 volts
Key in, ignition on, killswitch on (ie: just after fuel pump has primed): 11.75 volts
Bike running, only just started - 11.75 volts

At warm temperature idle around 15 minutes after starting - 11.36 volts
At 5,000 RPM in neutral - 11.18 volts

So it sounds like the charging system isn't working correctly. What should I be doing next to diagnose things further?

Conclusion, it's not charging & needs either a stator or a reg rec.
Probably a new battery also.
You need to see what's coming out of the engine, usually yellow wires, I'm sure there's a test procedure somewhere on google for your specific bike.
Or you could use the "most likely component" or "cheapest part first" method, which often results in buying parts that aren't required.

[nzspokes]

Conclusion, it's not charging & needs either a stator or a reg rec.
Probably a new battery also.
You need to see what's coming out of the engine, usually yellow wires, I'm sure there's a test procedure somewhere on google for your specific bike.
Or you could use the "most likely component" or "cheapest part first" method, which often results in buying parts that aren't required.

This.

In my 750 Gixxer the stator was burnt up, kinda was the give away. It was half black.

[The End]

This.

In my 750 Gixxer the stator was burnt up, kinda was the give away. It was half black.

Yeah from what I've read online it seems as though the reg/rec and stator are known issues for the 06 and 07 600s and 750s unfortunately.

Do you know if replacing the standard reg/rec with a mosfet one will help prevent this occurring again? (alongside a new stator and battery too?)

[nzspokes]

Yeah from what I've read online it seems as though the reg/rec and stator are known issues for the 06 and 07 600s and 750s unfortunately.

Do you know if replacing the standard reg/rec with a mosfet one will help prevent this occurring again? (alongside a new stator and battery too?)

Not an area I know enough about to say. My bike was converted to total loss.

[malcy25]

https://hpi.be/applist.php?brand=Suzuki&type=Roadbike&cat=

[F5 Dave]

Electrix world in UK seem to do good product from what I've seen. HPI ignition are expensive not sure on stators but should be good. I'd avoid Chinese copies but you might get lucky.

[malcy25]

Electrix world in UK seem to do good product from what I've seen. HPI ignition are expensive not sure on stators but should be good. I'd avoid Chinese copies but you might get lucky.

Funny you should say that, Electrexworld is my preference also. But could not find so much on their site.

In the background Electrexworld and HPI seem to share a lot of stuff. On the self generating race ign stuff we use, the same CDI boxes, and rotors in play on the two brands, just different stators. Electrexworld brought their stator production in house. We have found them to be very reliable (to the point we switched out all HPI race stators across 5 bikes). They have a slightly different winding count which gives a different advance retard curve, but the performance pans out very much the same on the TZs.

[husaberg]

Funny you should say that, Electrexworld is my preference also. But could not find so much on their site.

In the background Electrexworld and HPI seem to share a lot of stuff. On the self generating race ign stuff we use, the same CDI boxes, and rotors in play on the two brands, just different stators. Electrexworld brought their stator production in house. We have found them to be very reliable (to the point we switched out all HPI race stators across 5 bikes). They have a slightly different winding count which gives a different advance retard curve, but the performance pans out very much the same on the TZs.

I noticed HPi were re manufacturing Krober stuff either that or selling them for someone else.
https://www.hpi.be/pitsch.php

[The End]

Well...a bit of an update for you all.

I finally had time to disassemble everything after receiving all of the parts.

I can't say I've ever been happy to see a failed component, but at least now I know what the cause of my issue was - a very toasty looking stator coil!

I've replaced the stator and will replace the reg/rec tomorrow, since I had already ordered a new one I may as well replace everything at once.

Once everything is back together I'll measure the voltages and fingers crossed will see normal/good results.

342396

[jafagsx250]

That's a well buggered one. Surprised that there's not more damage

[SaferRides]

A failed reg/rec can kill the stator, so do replace it before using the bike again.

[malcy25]

Good to know a reason. What did you go with in terms of parts?

[The End]

Good to know a reason. What did you go with in terms of parts?

Ordered genuine Suzuki parts for the regulator/rectifier, stator and matching gasket.

It's a common enough issue that there are a multitude of knock-off parts out there, but there's no substitute for genuine quality.

[pete376403]

Ordered genuine Suzuki parts for the regulator/rectifier, stator and matching gasket.

It's a common enough issue that there are a multitude of knock-off parts out there, but there's no substitute for genuine quality.

As demonstrated in post 16?
My own Suzuki still has the original stator and r/r (37 years, but I am very careful about keeping the oil level up as the stator is partially oil cooled, I have relocated the r/r from under the battery box to under the steering head and the alternator connectors have all been replaced, and the batteries have been replaced as soon as needed.

[The End]

As demonstrated in post 16?
My own Suzuki still has the original stator and r/r (37 years, but I am very careful about keeping the oil level up as the stator is partially oil cooled, I have relocated the r/r from under the battery box to under the steering head and the alternator connectors have all been replaced, and the batteries have been replaced as soon as needed.

It's only a common issue for the 2006/2007 models of the bike, later years (and seemingly earlier too) don't suffer from the reg/rec and/or stator issues like the 2006 or 2007 ones do.

[malcy25]

As demonstrated in post 16?
and the batteries have been replaced as soon as needed.

After reading issues like this recently, I went and bought a new battery for my road bike as it was well puffed. I started to get nervous the impact this would have on the charging system for the times I did start it.....usually by bump!

[F5 Dave]

Having started numerous GSs by bump as their charging systems failed, including a borrowed thou touring north island, and of course all my race bikes, .

a borrowed RF900 took me a bit by surprise as it almost ran away from me when it caught. Higher first gear or idle or something. Opened my eyes.