1973 Suzuki TM250 replica

[rudolph]

I have acquired a 1973 Suzuki TS250 savage in a condition that is not worth restoring, engine looks like it has never been apart, and the thing isn't flogged out in every joint on the frame, but it looks like it has been in a dusty old barn. Someone has offered me $150 for a pile of stuff I have stripped off including the exhaust.

Plan is to fabricate a under slung expansion chamber, replace the mudguards (bike had nothing) Front and side number boards, Grind all brackets off the frame I don't need and weld up a few holes like pillion footrest holes.

I need to find some guards witch look like TM250 guards.

A couple old expansion chambers.

Period looking handlebar controls.

I can trade you parts for other parts or if you can suggest places to get them?, a quick google sed the TM250 piston will work in the TS but has a shorter skirt for port timing, dose anyone know of some port mods for the TS250?

This will be the only Japanese bike in my collection

[rudolph]

342471342472


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&biw=1600&bih=736&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=kUosXbr8DJTez7sPtr2RwA4&q=1973+Suzuki+TM&oq=1973+Suzuki+TM&gs_l=img.3..35i39j0l2j0i24l3.181126.181126..181642 ...0.0..0.259.259.2-1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.RY2oE-qbtwQ#imgrc=_

[Kickaha]

I need to find some guards witch look like TM250 guards.



DC plastics https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/home.php?cat=287&page=1

[rudolph]

Is that $USD?

I also want to find a TM cylinder head

[husaberg]

Dr200 or XT250 forks will bolt in an dlook more like a early MX bike than the full width TS hub.

I take that back the TM250 it had a full width Hub.
342489

[Grumph]

There was in fact a race kit available for the TS250 - before the TM's came out I think. A couple of the kits were imported.

IMO trying to turn it into a TM replica will be difficult - they're quite a different animal.
What you'll finish up with will be somewhere in between the two.

[husaberg]

There was in fact a race kit available for the TS250 - before the TM's came out I think. A couple of the kits were imported.

IMO trying to turn it into a TM replica will be difficult - they're quite a different animal.
What you'll finish up with will be somewhere in between the two.

I have a mag article about the race kit for the Ts125 race kit it wa sall engine stuff from memory most i think was pretty much tm stuff anyway.
I think the ozbook pages has the race kit instructions
I cant be arsed looking
https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/service_bulletins/page-3

I seen the 125stuff here
https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/service_bulletins/page-2

[rudolph]

IMO trying to turn it into a TM replica will be difficult - they're quite a different animal.
What you'll finish up with will be somewhere in between the two.

I am totally happy with that, there is one on trade me right now, something along this line but less shitty 342499

[husaberg]

I am totally happy with that, there is one on trade me right now, something along this line but less shitty 342499

Another option would be to use the old 250 engine and put it in a later set of running gear like crf250 or similar that has blown up the 250 engine would last forever and the resultant bike would be more fun to ride.

[rudolph]

Another option would be to use the old 250 engine and put it in a later set of running gear like crf250 or similar that has blown up the 250 engine would last forever and the resultant bike would be more fun to ride.

perish the thought

[rudolph]

Did some calculations and made this expansion chamber, I also got some TM250 guards cheep on face book they are very good quality, DC plastics make utter shit, I am going to cut that rear frame loop down and remove the brackets

[Kickaha]

DC plastics make utter shit
They are, but better than trashing OE stuff if it's going to be ridden

[rudolph]

Split the cases, everything looks good but there has been moisture in there but no damage from it, crank and main bearings feel mint but will be replaced as the crank case was full of a water oil mix.

I had NZ Cylinders fix up my KX cylinder, I might get them to bore and radius the pot edges as I have no tool I can fit in there.

[rudolph]

Cut off all unused brackets and shortened the rear frame loop + bent it up a bit more also welded up a few holes that were drilled for a pack rack or something. its away at the sand blasters with lots of other parts, it will get painted in 2K black.


I cannot find any info on porting mods, dose anyone have any info?

[rudolph]

Frame has been blasted and sprayed, those shocks are totally rooted so I am trying to find something, they are 340mm eye to eye and have 12mm eyes, pretty common size, I ground off the step at the bottom of the transfer ports, done this to a few old 2 strokes and it makes a big difference, and cylinder was bored for the new piston, fitted a new rod kit, every bearing in the motor will be replaced.

[husaberg]

Frame has been blasted and sprayed, those shocks are totally rooted so I am trying to find something, they are 340mm eye to eye and have 12mm eyes, pretty common size, I ground off the step at the bottom of the transfer ports, done this to a few old 2 strokes and it makes a big difference, and cylinder was bored for the new piston, fitted a new rod kit, every bearing in the motor will be replaced.

just gets the chinese remote res copy Ohlins.
they can be rebuilt and reworked and resealed.
plenty about
http://chrislivengood.net/wp/rfy-shocks-overview/

[rudolph]

I will look into those shocks, I see they are on Ebay for about $100 NZD a pair


Started putting parts back onto the frame, I may ditch that oil tank for a smaller one, as the TM seat bolts down so its harder to get at the oil filler, I have no idea why I am doing this project, my Harley is in need of a top end rebuild

[rudolph]

343539

engine is back together with all new parts and is back in the frame, I am only missing a few parts now like a throttle, rim tapes and inner tubes, rear tire. I need a seat foam witch can be made and a seat base I will make. last un restored part is the fuel tank witch I have paint stripped, it needs some acid to get the rust out of the bottom but is otherwise good.

[Pursang]

I like how you're working through the TS250, but a bit unsure of your goal.

I would recommend not putting to much effort in trying to make a full-bore Moto-cross bike out of it.
It would be fun and reliable for a few outings in VMX, but struggle to be competitive with genuine pre-75 race bikes.

The TS will have a wide range gearbox suitable for trail & road use not a close ratio racing set.
The TS will also have a mild steel frame and give away many kg's to the CroMo race frames.

But... put a Preston Petty headlight on it and an aluminium bash plate to protect your new downpipe and you will have a Great bike for Vinduro and Classic Trail rides, if there are any in your area.

Cheers, Daryl.:niceone:

[Pursang]

Re: Those Chinese shocks. The thing to look for is the actual piston stroke available.

A pre-75 bike needs 3.75-4.0" stroke to achieve 4" REAR WHEEL TRAVEL. (allow a bit for the bump stop)
Later LTR models often need much more.

The Chinese shocks generally meet the fitment length requirements by extending the bottom alloy mounting.
They fit OK, but don't provide the travel, (I've seen as little as 2"):facepalm:

Some are much better than others, I have purchased $100 Chinese shocks for '80's LTR Honda XL's that are really excellent.

Note: Some VMX organisations do not allow remote reservoir shocks on pre-75 bikes, unless original fitment (eg Yamaha Thermal Flows).

A set of Koni's from wreckers or a swap meet are a good option, and still rebuildable (Ikon for parts)

Or spend big bucks from UK or USA for 'modern' VMX race shocks.

Cheers, Daryl.

[rudolph]

I gave up on the idea of the Chinese shocks for that very same thing and the coils are like 10mm thick.


Anyhow the bike is almost done, I just need inner tubes + rim tapes and a rear tire, the seat needs the new cover put on, I made the base and foam.


I cannot find a rear sproket, needs to be a #525 with 45 teeth with a 72mm center hole and 96mm bolt circle, not relay fussed about the bolt as I can weld up or re drill machine things. also I cannot find the right twist grip throttle.

[jellywrestler]

I gave up on the idea of the Chinese shocks for that very same thing and the coils are like 10mm thick.


Anyhow the bike is almost done, I just need inner tubes + rim tapes and a rear tire, the seat needs the new cover put on, I made the base and foam.


I cannot find a rear sproket, needs to be a #525 with 45 teeth with a 72mm center hole and 96mm bolt circle, not relay fussed about the bolt as I can weld up or re drill machine things. also I cannot find the right twist grip throttle.

what model bike are you looking for to supply it? and year

[jellywrestler]

Part # = 57100-28010
Part Description = GRIP ASSEMBLY,THROTTLE
Model Count = 17
RV125K 1973 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125L 1974 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
TC125J 1972 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125K 1973 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125L 1974 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TS125J 1972 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125K 1973 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125L 1974 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125R 1971 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS185J 1972 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185K 1973 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185L 1974 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185R 1971 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS250J 1972 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250K 1973 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250L 1974 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250R 1971 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT

[rudolph]

Part # = 57100-28010
Part Description = GRIP ASSEMBLY,THROTTLE
Model Count = 17
RV125K 1973 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125L 1974 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
TC125J 1972 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125K 1973 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125L 1974 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TS125J 1972 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125K 1973 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125L 1974 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125R 1971 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS185J 1972 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185K 1973 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185L 1974 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS185R 1971 183 TS185 SIERRA DUAL SPORT
TS250J 1972 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250K 1973 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250L 1974 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT
TS250R 1971 246 TS250 SAVAGE DUAL SPORT

I gave away the original throttle as it had the switches for lights etc in it, I was trying to find one suitable for a MX bike with the cable coming out the bottom witch is hard now days with no bike shops.

[husaberg]

I gave away the original throttle as it had the switches for lights etc in it, I was trying to find one suitable for a MX bike with the cable coming out the bottom witch is hard now days with no bike shops.

Pretty much every bike shop has a CR or XR throttle assembly
why does it need to be cable out the bottom?
Trademe has 2000 listing for throttles
under $20 delivered
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/handlebars-handlebar-parts/listing-2419462843.htm

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/handlebars-handlebar-parts/listing-2411621569.htm

[rudolph]

Pretty much every bike shop has a CR or XR throttle assembly
why does it need to be cable out the bottom?
Trademe has 2000 listing for throttles
under $20 delivered
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/handlebars-handlebar-parts/listing-2419462843.htm

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/handlebars-handlebar-parts/listing-2411621569.htm

My throttle cable all ready has a 90 bend on the throttle end, a throttle with it coming out the side would make it do a U turn lol, I found an OK plastic one for $15, its nicer than the Mangura unit I had on my Honda

[rudolph]

Tank decals are still on the way. Just need a rear tire and chain and sprockets, rear sprocket is proving to be very hard to find, I want to use a 50 tooth #525 I may have to make some kind of adapter to use a sprocket of another bike as blank sprockets are horrendously expensive.

If anyone has a good used 100 100 18 or a 120 100 18 knobby I will take it off your hands, also a used 525 chain I can run for a bit on my old sprockets. I use to love working in the bike shop in about 2000, the customer would want a new chain or tire and didn't want to keep the old one so it would end up on one of my bikes witch was all ways something that had been abandoned in the workshop, I got this XS650 for the $300 owing on it, rode it all over NZ when I was 18.

[husaberg]

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2440/

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/

Not sure why anyone would want to use a 535 chain though?

[rudolph]

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2440/

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/

Not sure why anyone would want to use a 535 chain though?

I tried JT sprockets 1st but they have nothing, you mean 525 chain? Suzuki liked to use it in the 70s

[husaberg]

I tried JT sprockets 1st but they have nothing, you mean 525 chain? Suzuki liked to use it in the 70s

on my link was imo the exact sprocket you asked for. its listed as funny enough a TM250 for off road or a ts250 for road.
pretty sure you measured the PCD wrong.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2440/
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1953/
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR813/

343807

I gave up on the idea of the Chinese shocks for that very same thing and the coils are like 10mm thick.
I cannot find a rear sprocket, needs to be a #525 with 45 teeth with a 72mm center hole and 96mm bolt circle, not relay fussed about the bolt as I can weld up or re drill machine things.

RE the chain just use a std common size that is freely available now choose the spokets to suit.
if you cant find a sprocket to suit just thin down the sprocket .

this is one that has 42t and 520 off the shelf
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1946/
used on these models
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR820/
try searching for 45t for these bikes

[rudolph]

on my link was imo the exact sprocket you asked for. its listed as funny enough a TM250 for off road or a ts250 for road.
pretty sure you measured the PCD wrong.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2440/
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1953/
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR813/

343807


RE the chain just use a std common size that is freely available now choose the spokets to suit.
if you cant find a sprocket to suit just thin down the sprocket .

this is one that has 42t and 520 off the shelf
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1946/
used on these models
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR820/
try searching for 45t for these bikes


Cool thank you for the help, that 520 DR250 rear sprocket would be good and bolt right on. the part# JTR813 sprocket for the TM and TS is long since discontinued but the front sprocket is available off the shelf.

[rudolph]

The 520 conversion would make live very easy as I could machine the front sprocket from 5/16 to 1/4" and everything else would bolt on

[rudolph]

I just need tires and a chain now, sprockets are ordered

[rudolph]

Got a good used set of tires from the jumbo bin at a local bike shop, mint. Just need a chain now, got the DR250 rear sprocket and a new TS front witch I will deal to tonight.

[husaberg]

Got a good used set of tires from the jumbo bin at a local bike shop, mint. Just need a chain now, got the DR250 rear sprocket and a new TS front witch I will deal to tonight.

looks sweet, are they 21 and 18 wheels? Front looks small.
just needs some side covers to kick it off.
Make sure you anneal the sprocket and retreat afterwards. Unless you are borrowing the lathe and tools.

[rudolph]

looks sweet, are they 21 and 18 wheels? Front looks small.
just needs some side covers to kick it off.
Make sure you anneal the sprocket and retreat afterwards. Unless you are borrowing the lathe and tools.

Yes 18” and 21” I was going to get some of those oven number boards unless I can find the TM side covers, I had a go at the front sprocket last night But my lathe is too worn and chatters from the sprocket teeth so I will have to take it to my friends work and he can do it on a better lathe and they have ceramic inserts witch are good for hard steel.

[husaberg]

not sure who makes them
http://vintage-suzuki.com/product-category/bolt-on-plastics/tm-models-bolt-on-plastics/side-panel-sets/

if you heat the sprocket to cherry red. allow to cool slowly it should be soft.
Then after you have machined it, then re-heat to cherry red an quench in some dirty old black engine oil to re case harden.

[Drew]

Yes 18” and 21” I was going to get some of those oven number boards unless I can find the TM side covers, I had a go at the front sprocket last night But my lathe is too worn and chatters from the sprocket teeth so I will have to take it to my friends work and he can do it on a better lathe and they have ceramic inserts witch are good for hard steel.
Bolt a grinder to the tool post for the sprocket machining.
Works better.

[rudolph]

I am just going to take the sprocket to my friends shop, if I try to re harden it I reckon I will screw it up and the teeth with snap off, they would be tempered just on the teeth.

its not super hard as I can cut it with a HSS tool but my lathe is like from 1937 or something like that, I dont think I can do anything on the bike for a bit, run out of funds, got an old Yamaha TT600 Tenere to rewire and sort for a guy to.

[husaberg]

I am just going to take the sprocket to my friends shop, if I try to re harden it I reckon I will screw it up and the teeth with snap off, they would be tempered just on the teeth.

its not super hard as I can cut it with a HSS tool but my lathe is like from 1937 or something like that, I dont think I can do anything on the bike for a bit, run out of funds, got an old Yamaha TT600 Tenere to rewire and sort for a guy to.

nah heat to cherry red and plunge in dirty oil (the oil has to be old crudey suff that where the carbon is) it will not turn out too brittle unless you plunge it into water
you cant really mess it up unless you melt the sprocket in a forge at 2000 deg c or you dont expect the oil to catch fire panic and kick it over or such like.
just have something to put over the tin of oil you use to put out the fire and only heat to red. Not until its a melted puddle.
The bike looks really neat far better than i expected it to look.
I might have some CR125M side-covers or similar. if i raid the old mans they are kind of the right shape.

just the heat from grinding or machining the factory hardened sprocket will likely destroy and cut through the factory heat treatment anyway.

[Drew]

just the heat from grinding or machining the factory hardened sprocket will likely destroy and cut through the factory heat treatment anyway.

I've done to several sprockets and never had a problem. Fucken 749r was a cunt to get 520 sprockets for.

They don't get that hot.

[husaberg]

I've done to several sprockets and never had a problem. Fucken 749r was a cunt to get 520 sprockets for.

They don't get that hot.

The hardening is normally only on the surface "ie cut through"

[eldog]

Yes 18” and 21” I was going to get some of those oven number boards unless I can find the TM side covers, I had a go at the front sprocket last night But my lathe is too worn and chatters from the sprocket teeth so I will have to take it to my friends work and he can do it on a better lathe and they have ceramic inserts witch are good for hard steel.

The ceramic tips ok for hardened stuff won't like the intermittent cuts on the teeth.

Follow HBs suggestions below your post
Or follow Drew's suggestion. This works as well.

[Bonez]

nah heat to cherry RED and plunge in dirty oil (the oil has to be old crudey suff that where the carbon is) it will not turn out too brittle unless you plunge it into water All fixed now. I'm sure your boyfreind gives your cheery head.

[rudolph]

Turned the sprocket down today with a ceramic tip no problems, just used a high speed, lots of sparks.

[husaberg]

All fixed now. I'm sure your boyfreind gives your cheery head.

this is a technical thread troll do your trolling somewhare else
dont worry the mods will not infract such a wonderful person as you. A so called "professional troll."
you are just what KB needs a troll who has nothing to add about motorbikes

[rudolph]

The hardening is normally only on the surface "ie cut through"

I wonder if one side will flog out now? lol

[rudolph]

Bike fired up and runs very nicely but carb is pissing out fuel if I have the tap on, I set the float height and tested the needle valve with petrol but bolt the carb on and it over flows, lapped it in with autosole and that didn't help, I will try to get a new set.

[husaberg]

Bike fired up and runs very nicely but carb is pissing out fuel if I have the tap on, I set the float height and tested the needle valve with petrol but bolt the carb on and it over flows, lapped it in with autosole and that didn't help, I will try to get a new set.

tap the side of the bowl with a screwdriver.
i thought those era Suzukis had a vacuum tap

[Drew]

tap the side of the bowl with a screwdriver.
i thought those era Suzukis had a vacuum tap

Not the two stroke bikes I dont think. Was 80s before life got hard with split hoses and cunting air leaks.

[Bonez]

Even the vacuum taps can fail. The one on my GSX750EX did and petrol got dump into the sump.

[Drew]

Even the vacuum taps can fail. The one on my GSX750EX did and petrol got dump into the sump.

They did that through the 90s an' all.

Cant have been cheaper than an on/off of decent quality, and a low level light.

[jellywrestler]

Even the vacuum taps can fail. The one on my GSX750EX did and petrol got dump into the sump.

that would have only happened when your float needles failed too

[husaberg]

Not the two stroke bikes I dont think. Was 80s before life got hard with split hoses and cunting air leaks.

I had a t90 and t125 both had them as well as a t500 that i am pretty sure had one also
I had a t350 but i cant remember or not if that had one. But i think the gt250 had them

[Bonez]

that would have only happened when your float needles failed tooHappened on my GSX750EZ as well decades earlier. On the Hondas and beemmers the gas just came out the overflow tubes.

[rudolph]

No vacuum tap on this bike, it has two independent floats that run on pins in the float bowl, no point trying to fix it I think, i will get a rubber tipped needle, they are more forgiving.

[Drew]

I had a t90 and t125 both had them as well as a t500 that i am pretty sure had one also
I had a t350 but i cant remember or not if that had one. But i think the gt250 had them
Titan 500 was certainly not vacuum tap, nor the GT500. I've had those.

[Bonez]

this is a technical thread troll do your trolling somewhare else
dont worry the mods will not infract such a wonderful person as you. A so called "professional troll."
you are just what KB needs a troll who has nothing to add about motorbikesYou'd better brush up on case hardening.

[husaberg]

Titan 500 was certainly not vacuum tap, nor the GT500. I've had those.
are you sure?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222228537524

[Drew]

are you sure?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222228537524

That's nothing like what was on mine. Both tanks had the basic ones.

[husaberg]

That's nothing like what was on mine. Both tanks had the basic ones.
No idea i know for sure the T90 and t125 do

here is a pic of the T500 one at least
https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/blog/2013/07/27/t500-fuel-cock/
343940

They were a Suzuki thing right up through the early 90's at least can't remember others having them.

although it looks like some yams had them too.
http://www.sr500forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4977

[rudolph]

The fuel tap rubber swelled up, its harder to turn and stopped dripping, fueled up the Xr200 for the 1st time in 16 years and that pissed out the tap for a bit to

[F5 Dave]

You can get replacement tap rubber from places like weemoto I'd guess but I've seen them locally too. The Honda taps are often riveted but that's not a show stopper. My RZ one leaked a bit but dropped a ball bearing in it and gave it a tap.

[rudolph]

I cannot find a needle valve for the carb, I tried lapping it in with metal polish then Jiff and also hammering the needle into the seat and also re cutting the seat

Its a big old VM 28 SC Mikuni with septet rate floats

[husaberg]

I cannot find a needle valve for the carb, I tried lapping it in with metal polish then Jiff and also hammering the needle into the seat and also re cutting the seat

Its a big old VM 28 SC Mikuni with septet rate floats

overkill
the only time i would ever use a hammer near a carb is to tap the side to seat the needle if it was leaking after the fuel was turned on.
Most mikunis regardless of age ran similar needles.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/engine-components/listing-2531284274.htm?rsqid=e9fecb39dc0d4d0da72666cb1b7e5 81d-008
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/engine-components/listing-2529965668.htm?rsqid=e9fecb39dc0d4d0da72666cb1b7e5 81d-008

[Kickaha]

Mikuni OZ should have it

https://www.mikunioz.com/product-category/needle-seat-assemblies/?v=8e3eb2c69a18

[rudolph]

overkill
the only time i would ever use a hammer near a carb is to tap the side to seat the needle if it was leaking after the fuel was turned on.
Most mikunis regardless of age ran similar needles.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/engine-components/listing-2531284274.htm?rsqid=e9fecb39dc0d4d0da72666cb1b7e5 81d-008
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/engine-components/listing-2529965668.htm?rsqid=e9fecb39dc0d4d0da72666cb1b7e5 81d-008

Yep I only tried tapping the needle into the seat as a last resort I removed the seat from the carb 1st.

My carb has a screw in seat and the needle dosnt have the wire clip thing on the end, I might ditch this carb for a Chinese one

[rudolph]

Mikuni OZ should have it

https://www.mikunioz.com/product-category/needle-seat-assemblies/?v=8e3eb2c69a18

They should have the right needle and seat, I am now thinking about going to a spigot mound carb as I can get one from aliexpress for about 30 NZD and it’s a more conventional carb rather than this heap of shit I have

[Kickaha]

I can get one from aliexpress for about 30 NZD e

Probably a cheap knock off, better off buy something complete from the Mikuni guys, they aren't that expensive, in saying that I bought what I later found out was a copy of a Keihen PWK and it works great but a lot of guys have had problems with them

[rudolph]

Made the number boards and used some old brake springs to mound the front of the exhaust, got a needle and seat for the carb but it was wrong so hope to have another next week, fitted a new DID chain, this is pretty much finished now, I think I will sell this and start another project, I really really want a mid 70s Kawasaki KX125 or a mid to late 70s Yamaha DT250, I would use this in a deal if you have something.

[rudolph]

Got the carb parts and got the carb adjusted, thing can get up and go now, power keeps coming, dosnt go flat like a stock exhaust. Gave everyone a good hours worth of 2 stroke sounds, everyone looks fucked off they think it’s ok to chainsaw all day and ride quads

[husaberg]

listed on TM

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/listing/2712256295