Multistrada 1200 DVT issues

[Laava]

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I had some drama this year with my multistrada misfiring badly and it was caused by fitment of the new cambelts being one tooth out on vertical cyl intake. It would cough and buck on anything more than 1/3rd throttle up to 4k rpm and then was fine above that. Also when cold it would stall at startup after a few secs and after about 4 restarts would then idle normally.
Anyway, refitting the cambelt fixed that for about 1000 km.
Until this morning, I washed the bike, got geared up, it started and idled perfectly but then went back to the misfire under moderate, and upward, throttle. But it was ok from 4-6.2k rpm where it pulled like a train but then bogged down and would not rev any higher than 6200rpm. I was hopeful it was the exhaust flap but it looks to be cycling properly. Also as an experiment, I changed from touring to sport mode and back a couple of times. In sport mode the check engine light comes on and stays on, as well as still having the misfiring.
In ordinary back road riding you would almost not notice until you give it a handfull, ie when overtaking or rev up over 6200rpm.
Very frustrating after all the hassle I have had already this year with this bike.
Am going over everything to see if I have upset anything during the washing process...
Anyway, hoping once again to find a solution, so welcoming feedback...thanks in advance...Al

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[OddDuck]

OK, long shot here... are the keys still present on the timing pulleys... and properly engaged? I'm not familiar with the 1200 DVT engine, but on the 2V motors I've worked on, the half-moon keys have a terrible habit of rolling backwards on reassembly of the timing system and refusing to engage with the pulley properly. I have to use something thin (like a bobby pin) to control the top surface of the key while refitting the timing pulley.

[Laava]

Timing pulleys were not removed, was in theory a simple new belt fitment. A fair bit more complicated than it could be by all accounts. I am stymied at the moment...

[JimO]

<article>
I had some drama this year with my multistrada misfiring badly and it was caused by fitment of the new cambelts being one tooth out on vertical cyl intake. It would cough and buck on anything more than 1/3rd throttle up to 4k rpm and then was fine above that. Also when cold it would stall at startup after a few secs and after about 4 restarts would then idle normally.
Anyway, refitting the cambelt fixed that for about 1000 km.
Until this morning, I washed the bike, got geared up, it started and idled perfectly but then went back to the misfire under moderate, and upward, throttle. But it was ok from 4-6.2k rpm where it pulled like a train but then bogged down and would not rev any higher than 6200rpm. I was hopeful it was the exhaust flap but it looks to be cycling properly. Also as an experiment, I changed from touring to sport mode and back a couple of times. In sport mode the check engine light comes on and stays on, as well as still having the misfiring.
In ordinary back road riding you would almost not notice until you give it a handfull, ie when overtaking or rev up over 6200rpm.
Very frustrating after all the hassle I have had already this year with this bike.
Am going over everything to see if I have upset anything during the washing process...
Anyway, hoping once again to find a solution, so welcoming feedback...thanks in advance...Al

</article>


i think i have gone blind i cant see any of that, and for that reason im out

[Laava]

i think i have gone blind i cant see any of that, and for that reason im out
Lol, that's a shame, it's letting you know that you have been selected for todays lucky draw! But if you can't respond.....

[OddDuck]

OK, do you have access to exploded parts diagrams? Is there a sensor of some kind attached to the inlet camshaft?

Also what's the belt tension been set to?

I mentioned the timing pulleys because at some point a pulley on the 900SS was replaced. Some of them have flanges, some don't... the head pulleys are supposed to be the non-flanged kind so that the belt can be pulled on and off without dramas. Replacement of said non-flanged pulley with a flanged type somewhere before I got the bike meant that at every belt change, the pulley had to come off and get refitted, it was the only way to get the belt on without applying brute force to a brand new belt.

[sidecar bob]

Forget about the cam timing, that was last time.
Pull the spark plugs & look for tracking down the outside of the porcelain.
Clean the outside of the plugs with braklean to remove any baked on grime & push a Phillips screwdriver with a braklean soaked rag up the plug cap to clean it out.
Also, it may have water in the fly by wire throttle or throttle position sensor.

[Laava]

Forget about the cam timing, that was last time.
Pull the spark plugs & look for tracking down the outside of the porcelain.
Clean the outside of the plugs with braklean to remove any baked on grime & push a Phillips screwdriver with a braklean soaked rag up the plug cap to clean it out.
Also, it may have water in the fly by wire throttle or throttle position sensor.

Roger, will check those things, except the tps, they are nearly the most difficult thing to access on these bikes and expensive beyond belief.
The engine warning light thing in sport mode only is curious tho, been trying to work out if there something that is a very different parameter setting in that mode...

[Laava]

So, after checking and cleaning evrything with CRC66 I could get to without pulling off the fuel tank, the lamda sensor plugs, all four coils where they have a three wire connection plug, plug leads and plugs to horizontal cyl, side stand plug, cam sensor plugs, temp sensor and plug plus any other general loom plugs I could access.
I went for a test ride in the rain to see if it was still the same. The low rpm stumble is still there but lower in the rev range and the high rpm restriction has gone. So, will wait to get a good ride in this weekend and re-assess. But the engine warning light is still solid in sport mode.
Hmmmm.....

[pete376403]

Maybe the engine fault light will stay on until it is reset with a diagnostic tool, even if the original fault is no longer present. Seems like a good way to encourage owners to take their bikes to an "authorised service depot"

[Honest Andy]

Most motorbike shops are running a special today where you can bring in your shitty NEW bike and trade it for an OLDer version that is easier to diagnose and fix...

[Laava]

Maybe the engine fault light will stay on until it is reset with a diagnostic tool, even if the original fault is no longer present. Seems like a good way to encourage owners to take their bikes to an "authorised service depot"

Yep, you are probably onto it. Bike is running way better but still not a hundred. Sidecarbob might have been onto it with the fly by wire throttle grip...


Most motorbike shops are running a special today where you can bring in your shitty NEW bike and trade it for an OLDer version that is easier to diagnose and fix...

Funny thing was, I traded a not too bad '14 DL1000 for this bike and now not so sure I did the right thing.