Ignitech Problem

[diesel pig]

Ignitech Problem

Mea Culpa, I was the problem NOT the ignitech if you want to know why scroll down.

I have a problem with my ignitech and a question about ignitech
First the problem, I have a DC-CDI-P2 set up on my 2-stroke parallel twin 180 Degree crankshaft with two pick ups set up(180 degrees apart) on the end of the crankshaft picking up off a single lobe on the flywheel and a single coil for each cylinder. The wiring is as the ignitech manual’s wiring diagram shows how to do it.
I have a ignitech in my Bucket and am very happy with it which is why I want to use one on my classic Suzuki. So I have done as stated above and started it and it ran well so I stopped it. Later when I went to start it again it didn’t start and didn’t sound like it was sparking so I hooked up the Laptop to use the test function and noticed as I was going through the tabs the base advance was set on 10 degrees instead of the 26 degrees BTDC that I had set up the pickups to. I reset the base advance to 26 degrees and then I started the bike and it ran well so I took it for a ride after turning it off and then trying to start it again , wouldn’t start and sounded like just like it did the first time it wouldn’t start. So I hooked it up to the laptop again thinking the base advance had changed again but it had not. So I tried kicking starting the bike while still hooked up to the laptop and that’s when I noticed that MAX advance 1 and MAX advance 2 where showing incredibly high advance like 60 degrees on one and 120 degrees on the other. Everything I’ve tried I haven’t been able to change it.
So does anybody have any ideas what is going on?
Second the question has anybody here had communications with Ignitech in relation to problems with their units. Does anybody think its worth asking Ignitech about this.
They are very easy to deal with when you are buying stuff off them. But are they interested in supporting their product or are I wasting my time.

[TZ350]

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I have found them helpful but you have to keep the questions simple concise and not to many at a time. Things get lost in translation.

[F5 Dave]

So. . . You haven't sheared the woodruff key perhaps?

[TZ350]

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Liam Ventor of Fast Bike Gear is the NZ appointed Ignitec importer/distributor. http://www.fastbikegear.co.nz/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1636

[TZ350]

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Team ESE have used maybe 10 of the Ignitech DC-CDI-P2 Race programmable ignitions on our bikes without any issues.

We started with P2's on our singles because at the time they were the only true race programmable with Power Valve control and we have found them very reliable but have no experience with using them on twins.

[F5 Dave]

I run the P2 on my RZ based 496. Std flywheel and stator. Think I chose classic but I can't remember what I ended up with. I can turn on the garage laptop and look if yer interested..

[diesel pig]

As it turns out I had it stuck in my head how to set the static advance from the first programmable CDI I ever did, a Zeetronic which you have to set static advance at the maximum advance that you want to use in the ignition map.
Which is completely wrong for the Ignitech that should ideally be timed at 10 degrees BTDC (it can be timed a little bit earlier or a little bit later) with my 26 degrees BTDC static advance, the poor Ignitech was trying to square a circle and just couldn’t cope.
I must say the help I got from Ignitech was outstanding and they were able to solve the problem quickly.

[husaberg]

As it turns out I had it stuck in my head how to set the static advance from the first programmable CDI I ever did, a Zeetronic which you have to set static advance at the maximum advance that you want to use in the ignition map.
Which is completely wrong for the Ignitech that should ideally be timed at 10 degrees BTDC (it can be timed a little bit earlier or a little bit later) with my 26 degrees BTDC static advance, the poor Ignitech was trying to square a circle and just couldn’t cope.
I must say the help I got from Ignitech was outstanding and they were able to solve the problem quickly.

How do you rate the ignitech vs the Zeetronic?

[diesel pig]

They are much of a muchness but at the time I did the zeetronic you had to programme it with a handheld unit with four buttons and a LCD screen like a calculator. I just keep getting lost using it. The ignitech hooking up to a Laptop is much easier and cool to watch the map work when the engine is working. I believe the zeetronic can hook up to a Laptop too now so as I said much of muchness. I will keep ignitech because I am use to it.

[F5 Dave]

The Zeel was also in separate boxes. I didn't buy one for the powervalves so the next box was more than an ignitech. PC is so much easier interface on ignitech than handheld controller. I've set up 4 now, its getting easy.

[marsheng]

Just blown my 3rd Ignitech dccdip2 in as many days as testing.

This is going on a GT250 Suzuki. New pickup plate with new inductive pickups. Total loss ignition, battery not being charged while running.

First unit ran about 10 dyno runs then at about 8000 rpm, bang crash and bike stopped. Could no longer communicate with the PC

Fitted brand new unit, checked all the earths and 5 or so runs later, also at about 8000 rpm, bang crash and could no longer talk to the PC.

Now I have fitted this same system to a earlier GT250 and it has run 10+ race meetings. I did fit new Pit bike coils to this bike.

The current bike used the old 12v coils. So I thought get rid of 12 v coils and go to the pit bikes ones.

3rd new unit, new pit bike coils and away I went. 6 or seven runs later, bang crash and stop. Bugger.

Turn the bike on and the ignitech is randomly firing the plugs at around 800 rpm with the motor not even turning. .

Any suggestion ? I've run out of ideas. I have sent the 2 units back to Ignitech today, that was just before I blew the 3rd one. Bugger again.

Thanks Wallace.

[mr bucketracer]

Just blown my 3rd Ignitech dccdip2 in as many days as testing.

This is going on a GT250 Suzuki. New pickup plate with new inductive pickups. Total loss ignition, battery not being charged while running.

First unit ran about 10 dyno runs then at about 8000 rpm, bang crash and bike stopped. Could no longer communicate with the PC

Fitted brand new unit, checked all the earths and 5 or so runs later, also at about 8000 rpm, bang crash and could no longer talk to the PC.

Now I have fitted this same system to a earlier GT250 and it has run 10+ race meetings. I did fit new Pit bike coils to this bike.

The current bike used the old 12v coils. So I thought get rid of 12 v coils and go to the pit bikes ones.

3rd new unit, new pit bike coils and away I went. 6 or seven runs later, bang crash and stop. Bugger.

Turn the bike on and the ignitech is randomly firing the plugs at around 800 rpm with the motor not even turning. .

Any suggestion ? I've run out of ideas. I have sent the 2 units back to Ignitech today, that was just before I blew the 3rd one. Bugger again.

Thanks Wallace.wow . Are they made in china now