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View Full Version : XSR900 - Post Covid blues - won't start



SNOman
26th June 2020, 13:16
Hi All

Got a 2107 XSR900. Commuted on it for 2.5 years now. Zero problems, its been flawless

Its been parked up since covid lockdown, rode it once when we hit alert level1. Is started fine.

Went to start it yesterday and had issues.

Loud buzzing (from starter relay?), no dash lights and then the engine light came on (only one on dash). this went out and the ABS light came on. I assume battery.

Took battery out and stuck in on the charger. Mine does a 7 stage test. It complained very quickly that there was a battery error so I assumed the arse had fallen out of the battery. Replaced with a new one and now the bike won't start.

The starter cranks over fine, all the dash is lit up correctly but no engine fire. If you look down at the exhaust while cranking you can see small puffs out of the exhaust so I'm assuming unburnt gas?

Any ideas where I should be looking next.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

sry just realised this is the wrong forum. if an admin can cross post or move this it would be greatly appreciated

FJRider
26th June 2020, 13:59
Hi All

Got a 2107 XSR900. Commuted on it for 2.5 years now. Zero problems, its been flawless

Took battery out and stuck in on the charger. Mine does a 7 stage test. It complained very quickly that there was a battery error so I assumed the arse had fallen out of the battery. Replaced with a new one and now the bike won't start.

The starter cranks over fine, all the dash is lit up correctly but no engine fire. If you look down at the exhaust while cranking you can see small puffs out of the exhaust so I'm assuming unburnt gas?

Any ideas where I should be looking next.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

If it's a 2107 model ... and you've had it for 2.5 years already ... time travel must be your thing.

Seriously though ... aside from the battery ... have you checked the plugs ???

But ... I think stale fuel might be the issue. Drain and replace with fresh (put it in your car) and check the plugs for spark. They don't last forever so they might need replaced too.

Simple things first.

HenryDorsetCase
26th June 2020, 14:03
what he said. Battery. plugs. fuel. REmember, if it has air, fuel compression and timing the lors of physics REQUIRE it to start.

FJRider
26th June 2020, 14:16
... REmember, if it has air, fuel compression and timing the laws of physics REQUIRE it to start.

What I call the big bangs theory. It doesn't always work that way ... but it's the way to bet. Plug leads earthing out can kill the spark.

Or Kill switch issues.

SNOman
26th June 2020, 14:20
If it's a 2107 model ... and you've had it for 2.5 years already ... time travel must be your thing.

Seriously though ... aside from the battery ... have you checked the plugs ???

But ... I think stale fuel might be the issue. Drain and replace with fresh (put it in your car) and check the plugs for spark. They don't last forever so they might need replaced too.

Simple things first.

Lol. Yeah it was 2.5 years before covid. Bought Aug 2017 :)

SNOman
26th June 2020, 14:25
The new battery with a full charge is registering 12.95v

It didn't have a lot of fuel in it, about an 8th so I topped it up with fresh gas to 1/2. I guess the plugs are next but seems really odd that the last ride I had was perfect and it hasn't been moved until I attempted to start it again after about 6 weeks so plugs or earth don't magically happen when bike doesn't move, right?

FJRider
26th June 2020, 14:40
It didn't have a lot of fuel in it, about an 8th so I topped it up with fresh gas to 1/2. I guess the plugs are next but seems really odd that the last ride I had was perfect and it hasn't been moved until I attempted to start it again after about 6 weeks so plugs or earth don't magically happen when bike doesn't move, right?

It's not magic ... there will be a reason. Otherwise it would have started.

A burst of easy start down the throat might help initial ignition of any stale fuel/moisture in the lines.

HenryDorsetCase
26th June 2020, 14:52
The new battery with a full charge is registering 12.95v

It didn't have a lot of fuel in it, about an 8th so I topped it up with fresh gas to 1/2. I guess the plugs are next but seems really odd that the last ride I had was perfect and it hasn't been moved until I attempted to start it again after about 6 weeks so plugs or earth don't magically happen when bike doesn't move, right?

Dont take this the wrong way, but check the kill switch and stuff like the sidestand spring with a lockout.

Bonez
26th June 2020, 15:38
I'd pick kill switch. Some bikes require you to pull in the clutch lever as well.

sidecar bob
26th June 2020, 16:18
Did you put all the wires on the battery when you re installed it.
Theres often two positive wires.

SNOman
27th June 2020, 12:31
Yep. There is only the main red and black AFAIK. In addition I have an Oxford heated grip kit so there is also the red and black for them.

When I turn the ignition key to the ON position what lights should be up on the dash? before I attempt to start it. I can't recall.

Anybody with an XSR 900 could you confirm?

I have the Green Neutral and two orange, one for engine and the other for ABS. They all remain lit when I start to crank it. I can't recall if this is correct even though I've stared at it almost every day for over 2 years.

I assume this means there is an error code that could be causing my problems and an OBD2 scanner might be needed to check it out and clear the issue.

F5 Dave
27th June 2020, 14:17
I'd try a burst of easy start. Of if you live on a hill, roll it down, engahe 2nd gear and dump the clutch.

I've had to do that twice on my STR. Theory: Some bikes seem to pick up condensation and just dont want to fire with water to injectors just on the button. First time I stripped it right down trying to find a reason. Bump start did the trick. Put fresh gas and cup of meths in the tank (absorbs water) and it was fine for another year.

Risk is you might need to push it up the hill if it doesn't start. I have a van but didn't need it.

nzspokes
27th June 2020, 19:17
Yep. There is only the main red and black AFAIK. In addition I have an Oxford heated grip kit so there is also the red and black for them.

When I turn the ignition key to the ON position what lights should be up on the dash? before I attempt to start it. I can't recall.

Anybody with an XSR 900 could you confirm?

I have the Green Neutral and two orange, one for engine and the other for ABS. They all remain lit when I start to crank it. I can't recall if this is correct even though I've stared at it almost every day for over 2 years.

I assume this means there is an error code that could be causing my problems and an OBD2 scanner might be needed to check it out and clear the issue.

Have you ever had the tank up? Some of the kiwi MT/XSR seem to come with the evap canister and they can cause starting issues.

Do you know someone with an OBD and yammie plug?

Black Knight
28th June 2020, 08:31
With key turned on the two orange (ABS and Engine) light up and green neutral-after 2 seconds the engine orange goes off.

SNOman
28th June 2020, 12:35
With key turned on the two orange (ABS and Engine) light up and green neutral-after 2 seconds the engine orange goes off.

Thanks.

The two orange lights remain on. So OBD Scanner here I come

SNOman
28th June 2020, 12:37
Have you ever had the tank up? Some of the kiwi MT/XSR seem to come with the evap canister and they can cause starting issues.

Do you know someone with an OBD and yammie plug?

I ordered one online yesterday. $50 from Dick Smith and a yamaha connector from ali express (NZ$15). I can wait until they get here before I look at this issue again. Don't need to use the bike in the interim as I'm still WFH.

Will post up re what the scanner says when I get it.

nzspokes
28th June 2020, 22:26
I ordered one online yesterday. $50 from Dick Smith and a yamaha connector from ali express (NZ$15). I can wait until they get here before I look at this issue again. Don't need to use the bike in the interim as I'm still WFH.

Will post up re what the scanner says when I get it.

Where in the country are you?

Black Knight
29th June 2020, 09:38
The ABS will/should go off once you exceed 5kph.

F5 Dave
29th June 2020, 12:53
Bump that puppy 🐶

SNOman
31st July 2020, 16:41
Update from me. Problem SOLVED....

My OBDII scanner turned up a week after I ordered it but it took a few weeks to get the Yamaha adapter cable out of China.

Hooked it up half an hour ago. As I expected 1 engine fault light.

P0638
Throttle Actuator Control Range.

Did a quick Google and found others with the very similar symptoms as my re the battery dying and then having issues and some suggested my ECU could be fried :(

Anyway. I proceeded to attempted to clear the code. It wouldn't clear. As a rescan kept showing the same thing so I figured something must be preventing it clearing and went looking a bit further at electrical. Back in to the main fuse box. There is a 7.5A fuse labelled ETV (presumably electronic throttle). The fuse was blown. Don't know how I missed it the first time but even if I had picked it up straight away I wouldn't have been able to clear the code.

Replaced the fuse with a spare from the box and attempted to clear the code. It cleared this time :)

Took the bike outside and it started, albeit very sluggishly and its now idling over outside the window.

It took time to solve and only cost me $60 for a scanner and cable I now have for good.

Only downside is I haven't been able to ride for quite some time but the weather has been rubbish for weeks. Hopefully Sunday will see my first ride.

Thanks for everyones help.

Cheers

F5 Dave
31st July 2020, 18:07
Good skills. Good to hear ok. Pack a spare fuse.

HenryDorsetCase
31st July 2020, 18:21
Update from me. Problem SOLVED....

My OBDII scanner turned up a week after I ordered it but it took a few weeks to get the Yamaha adapter cable out of China.

Hooked it up half an hour ago. As I expected 1 engine fault light.

P0638
Throttle Actuator Control Range.

Did a quick Google and found others with the very similar symptoms as my re the battery dying and then having issues and some suggested my ECU could be fried :(

Anyway. I proceeded to attempted to clear the code. It wouldn't clear. As a rescan kept showing the same thing so I figured something must be preventing it clearing and went looking a bit further at electrical. Back in to the main fuse box. There is a 7.5A fuse labelled ETV (presumably electronic throttle). The fuse was blown. Don't know how I missed it the first time but even if I had picked it up straight away I wouldn't have been able to clear the code.

Replaced the fuse with a spare from the box and attempted to clear the code. It cleared this time :)

Took the bike outside and it started, albeit very sluggishly and its now idling over outside the window.

It took time to solve and only cost me $60 for a scanner and cable I now have for good.

Only downside is I haven't been able to ride for quite some time but the weather has been rubbish for weeks. Hopefully Sunday will see my first ride.

Thanks for everyones help.

Cheers

I really like the fact that you persevered, sorted it out, and then posted. Thanks. I am going to order one of those cables for my Triumph I reckon.

BMWST?
1st August 2020, 18:34
yes resolution good.Often you never find out what the problem was or how it resolved