CB250F Hornet Clutch Replacement

[mnishi]

Hi,

Wanting to change the clutch on my cb250 Hornet, it's a 1997 model.

Clutch is slipping, so would like to change it.

Any idea where I can get the fibre/friction plates?

Cheers,

[Bonez]

First all pull the the clutch pack off( While obbserving were the individual plates(metal/fibre and ringsare fitted in the pack) Check to see if the plates are still within factory tolerances. If so clean them of oil residue and scuff them up with a bit of fine emery paper on a flat surface.. When finished clean them up again to remove any emery paper and fibre residue and refit to basket in threir correct positions.. Also while you are at check the length of the clutch springs and make sure they are within tolerances. Also check for any thing alse that may appear damaged or worn. Fit the outer casing using an new gasket if needed.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/250-MOTO/HORNET/1997/CB250FV/Engine/STARTER-MOTOR-CLUTCH/90061/E_05/1/909

Go to a forums dedicated for these machines. There you will find a wealth of information.:yes:

[mnishi]

First all pull the the clutch pack off( While obbserving were the individual plates(metal/fibre and ringsare fitted in the pack) Check to see if the plates are still within factory tolerances. If so clean them of oil residue and scuff them up with a bit of fine emery paper on a flat surface.. When finished clean them up again to remove any emery paper and fibre residue and refit to basket in threir correct positions.. Also while you are at check the length of the clutch springs and make sure they are within tolerances. Also check for any thing alse that may appear damaged or worn. Fit the outer casing using an new gasket if needed.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/250-MOTO/HORNET/1997/CB250FV/Engine/STARTER-MOTOR-CLUTCH/90061/E_05/1/909

Go to a forums dedicated for these machines. There you will find a wealth of information.:yes:

Excellent stuff.

I when rolling on the throttle, it does ‘whine’ so the clutch is definitely worn.

I’ll do the above steps and see how I go!

Cheers,

[mnishi]

Excellent stuff.

I when rolling on the throttle, it does ‘whine’ so the clutch is definitely worn.

I’ll do the above steps and see how I go!

Cheers,

Is someone also able to confirm it actually is the clutch plate? So when I was riding, I gave it some go, and it went from 8k rpm so 11k rpm in no time - which means it’s slipping right?!

Got the old man saying to try adjust the clutch cable - because that might be the issue?

Any expert opinion is much appreciated!

[Bonez]

Is someone also able to confirm it actually is the clutch plate? So when I was riding, I gave it some go, and it went from 8k rpm so 11k rpm in no time - which means it’s slipping right?!

Got the old man saying to try adjust the clutch cable - because that might be the issue?

Any expert opinion is much appreciated!Is your clutch lever free play set up correctly at the lever/actuator arm?

Try to go back to first principles. Have a look the service manual which is probably available in a 250Hornet forum and try not to over think problems.

[mnishi]

Is your clutch lever free play set up correctly at the lever/actuator arm?

Try to go back to first principles. Have a look the service manual which is probably available in a 250Hornet forum and try not to over think problems.

Cheers.

Anyone know where else I can get the parts from?

I have checked that link above, coming up to close to $400 NZD; shipping itself being $100.

Thanks

[FJRider]

Cheers.

Anyone know where else I can get the parts from?

I have checked that link above, coming up to close to $400 NZD; shipping itself being $100.

Thanks

Ty comparing the price for the parts from your local honda dealer.

The two issues with the clutch are ...

1. The clutch cable gets stretched through normal use. This is known to be happening when you pull the lever in and and little or nothing happens regarding the workings of the clutch. The clutch cable will have no tension in it and lots of play (a very small amount of play is normal) with the lever at rest. If the cable and lever is incorrectly adjusted ... there might be too much tension on the cable and the clutch may be actually partially engaged with the lever at rest. This can even be caused by the outer cable for the clutch hooked up somewhere. That should be checked to see if the entire length of it is free and loose first.

2. The (fibre) clutch plates do wear. Often individual fibre plates (one or more) may even break up or disintegrate. This leaves an uneven spacing with a metal plate on metal plate in the clutch. Or partial plates making poor contact. And so it slips with just throttle action. The other possible issue is that the wrong oil was used in the bike. Some put car engine oil in their motorcycle (to save themselves money). This usually has additives that reduce friction in the engine. Good in the engine ... but not good in the clutch. It tends to gum up the fiber clutch plates. The result being as you described. The fibre plates can just get worn thin and smooth with just continual use with dirty oil gumming up the fibre plates.

You can drain the oil and pull the outer cover off yourself. And actually see what the issue is. Warm the engine up a bit first ... warm oil flows faster and easier. Check with your fingers for "Bits" in the oil you drain out. Bits of steel or fibre or "other stuff" don't enhance clutch longevity.

A clutch rebuild isn't difficult to do ... especially with a workshop manual at hand. But the steps I've given will help you find the actual issue.

Good luck.

[mnishi]

Ty comparing the price for the parts from your local honda dealer.

The two issues with the clutch are ...

1. The clutch cable gets stretched through normal use. This is known to be happening when you pull the lever in and and little or nothing happens regarding the workings of the clutch. The clutch cable will have no tension in it and lots of play (a very small amount of play is normal) with the lever at rest. If the cable and lever is incorrectly adjusted ... there might be too much tension on the cable and the clutch may be actually partially engaged with the lever at rest. This can even be caused by the outer cable for the clutch hooked up somewhere. That should be checked to see if the entire length of it is free and loose first.

2. The (fibre) clutch plates do wear. Often individual fibre plates (one or more) may even break up or disintegrate. This leaves an uneven spacing with a metal plate on metal plate in the clutch. Or partial plates making poor contact. And so it slips with just throttle action. The other possible issue is that the wrong oil was used in the bike. Some put car engine oil in their motorcycle (to save themselves money). This usually has additives that reduce friction in the engine. Good in the engine ... but not good in the clutch. It tends to gum up the fiber clutch plates. The result being as you described. The fibre plates can just get worn thin and smooth with just continual use with dirty oil gumming up the fibre plates.

You can drain the oil and pull the outer cover off yourself. And actually see what the issue is. Warm the engine up a bit first ... warm oil flows faster and easier. Check with your fingers for "Bits" in the oil you drain out. Bits of steel or fibre or "other stuff" don't enhance clutch longevity.

A clutch rebuild isn't difficult to do ... especially with a workshop manual at hand. But the steps I've given will help you find the actual issue.

Good luck.

Got the plates etc.

I can’t seem to get the clutch plate cover off, so I’ve taken the springs off but when I’m trying to take the cover off that holds the clutch plates - the entire cover moves. What can I do to stop it from rotating?

[FJRider]

What can I do to stop it from rotating?

From memory ... the last one I did was a Kawasaki 100 trail bike quite a few years back ... Put it in gear.

A broomstick (or similar) between the spokes above the swing arm ... will stop the back wheel spinning.

[pete376403]

Why would you need to remove the clutch basket? Undo the bolts that hold the springs, pull the clutch pressure plate, remove the driving and driven plates, replace in reverse order. Sorted. New springs while you are in there wouldn't go amiss, but if the spring free length is within spec they will be ok. Dont go crazy tightening the spring retainer screws, (or any other screws /bolts for that matter) Service manual and torque wrench are your friends.

[mnishi]

Why would you need to remove the clutch basket? Undo the bolts that hold the springs, pull the clutch pressure plate, remove the driving and driven plates, replace in reverse order. Sorted. New springs while you are in there wouldn't go amiss, but if the spring free length is within spec they will be ok. Dont go crazy tightening the spring retainer screws, (or any other screws /bolts for that matter) Service manual and torque wrench are your friends.

this photo might make it clear. There's a housing covering the plates, and each time I try loosen it, it moves. I've put it into first gear and held down the rear brake but also no luck.

I've also tried to use a breaker bar to try get it loose, but no luck as well.

Let me know what you think.

[mnishi]

this photo might make it clear. There's a housing covering the plates, and each time I try loosen it, it moves. I've put it into first gear and held down the rear brake but also no luck.

I've also tried to use a breaker bar to try get it loose, but no luck as well.

Let me know what you think.

probably need to impact wrench this.

[FJRider]

Let me know what you think.


Attached image is of your clutch assembly (I think).

It may differ to the ones I have dealt with.

BUT ... it appears that the outer center nut holds it all the clutch components in place, in my experience the retaining springs held the metal and fibre plates in place.

The clutch breakdown image seems to indicate that outer nut holds the whole dam thing in place.

Unless there are violent objections from others ... put the bike in first gear. Strong Broomstick through the spokes above the swingarm ... and try undoing the center nut. Firm consistent pressure with a socket set. I see no sign of any folded locking tabs in you photo or the diagram I posted.

Quick question before you try the above ... finger the eight outer clutch tabs in the basket ... Is there any movement with them .. are they (sort of) loose in the basket .. ??

[FJRider]

probably need to impact wrench this.

It may be a left hand thread. Find a workshop manual.

[mnishi]

Attached image is of your clutch assembly (I think).

It may differ to the ones I have dealt with.

BUT ... it appears that the outer center nut holds it all the clutch components in place, in my experience the retaining springs held the metal and fibre plates in place.

The clutch breakdown image seems to indicate that outer nut holds the whole dam thing in place.

Unless there are violent objections from others ... put the bike in first gear. Strong Broomstick through the spokes above the swingarm ... and try undoing the center nut. Firm consistent pressure with a socket set. I see no sign of any folded locking tabs in you photo or the diagram I posted.

Quick question before you try the above ... finger the eight outer clutch tabs in the basket ... Is there any movement with them .. are they (sort of) loose in the basket .. ??

Yes they are loose in the basket, i can move them back and fourth. Is this normal?

I was thinking to pick up a torque wrench tomorrow and just use that.

[FJRider]

Yes they are loose in the basket, i can move them back and fourth. Is this normal?

I was thinking to pick up a torque wrench tomorrow and just use that.

The springs you removed hold the plates together. The clutch lever puts tension on the springs and releases the plates making firm contact. Disengaging the engine/gearbox connection. So yes loose (now) is expected.

The four threaded mounts for the springs will be attached to the back of the clutch. The circular recessed plate the springs press on should come straight out. And the slotted clutch basket stays in place. You might try levering them gently out with flat screwdrivers either side of the basket. On all eight clutch tab points in succession. The keywords are ... firm but gentle.

Might work.

[pete376403]

this photo might make it clear. There's a housing covering the plates, and each time I try loosen it, it moves. I've put it into first gear and held down the rear brake but also no luck.

I've also tried to use a breaker bar to try get it loose, but no luck as well.

Let me know what you think.

Well thats different to what I was expecting. Manuals lib has a Hornet 160 manual and the clutch looks similar. Have a look at this and see if it helps
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1637137/Honda-Cb-Hornet-160r-2015.html?page=144#manual

[mnishi]

The springs you removed hold the plates together. The clutch lever puts tension on the springs and releases the plates making firm contact. Disengaging the engine/gearbox connection. So yes loose (now) is expected.

The four threaded mounts for the springs will be attached to the back of the clutch. The circular recessed plate the springs press on should come straight out. And the slotted clutch basket stays in place. You might try levering them gently out with flat screwdrivers either side of the basket. On all eight clutch tab points in succession. The keywords are ... firm but gentle.

Might work.

so the 27mm does not need to come off? I just need to use a flat head screw driver and leverage it out?

[FJRider]

so the 27mm does not need to come off? I just need to use a flat head screw driver and leverage it out?

Maybe. Try it. And be gentle. Two screwdrivers ... one each side.

The center one usually allows the removal of the basket. It's removal is usually not needed.

[pete376403]

I'd say that nut definitely needs to come off. Look at the service manual link I posted - even though its for a CB160 it looks pretty similar to what you have. Also the parts diagram makes it pretty obvious the nut holds it all together

[mnishi]

I'd say that nut definitely needs to come off. Look at the service manual link I posted - even though its for a CB160 it looks pretty similar to what you have. Also the parts diagram makes it pretty obvious the nut holds it all together

Yes the nut needed to come off. No way around this.

I used a impact torque wrench and it came off easy as.

Put the new plates in, in the same order they came out. Clutch is in - now just cleaning the surface, need to make sure it’s smooth for the seal to hold properly.

Hoping for no leaks!

Cheers

[mnishi]

Yes the nut needed to come off. No way around this.

I used a impact torque wrench and it came off easy as.

Put the new plates in, in the same order they came out. Clutch is in - now just cleaning the surface, need to make sure it’s smooth for the seal to hold properly.

Hoping for no leaks!

Cheers

Is someone just able to confirm, when I put the springs back in, the clutch plates should not move?

When they were out, the plates would move back and fourth. But with them in now, they don’t.

Cheers

[mnishi]

alright, here's some more drama.

Put the cover on, and then connected the clutch cable but the clutch feels so light, there's no 'resistance'. It's almost like the clutch isn't connected.

Now I opened it up again, and checked the movement of the piece the cable connects to (reference in photo) and it seems to be ok. The 'thing' the clutch cable connects to also seems to be out a little, is this normal?


The long thing, inside the clutch cover (sorry no idea what it's called) seems to go back and fourth fine when I try move it. The flat head piece inside the clutch cover moves in and out fine.

Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

Thanks!

[mnishi]

alright, here's some more drama.

Put the cover on, and then connected the clutch cable but the clutch feels so light, there's no 'resistance'. It's almost like the clutch isn't connected.

Now I opened it up again, and checked the movement of the piece the cable connects to (reference in photo) and it seems to be ok. The 'thing' the clutch cable connects to also seems to be out a little, is this normal?


The long thing, inside the clutch cover (sorry no idea what it's called) seems to go back and fourth fine when I try move it. The flat head piece inside the clutch cover moves in and out fine.

Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

Thanks!


sorry

here are the photos

[FJRider]

Is someone just able to confirm, when I put the springs back in, the clutch plates should not move?

When they were out, the plates would move back and fourth. But with them in now, they don’t.

Cheers

The clutchplates shouldn't move with the springs on ... UNTIL you pull the clutch lever in.

[FJRider]

... Do I just need to readjust the clutch cable? Since I've put in new plates?

Thanks!

Yes. The Clutch cable needs adjustment as the clutch plates wear. With new plates ... the cable needs adjustment in the other direction.

Looks like you're getting it done. Well done you.

[mnishi]

The clutchplates shouldn't move with the springs on ... UNTIL you pull the clutch lever in.

Ok so just for my own understanding, the clutch cable is attached to that long rod thing and when you pull it in - does it release or pull the clutch plates?

Excuse my beginner self!

Appreciate it

[FJRider]

Ok so just for my own understanding, the clutch cable is attached to that long rod thing and when you pull it in - does it release or pull the clutch plates?

Excuse my beginner self!

Appreciate it

Pretty much yes.

Sometimes it takes wee a bit of adjusting to get it right.

Adjust it to take up the slack in the cable ... but not so it has tension on the cable with your hand OFF the clutch.

[mnishi]

Pretty much yes.

Sometimes it takes wee a bit of adjusting to get it right.

Adjust it to take up the slack in the cable ... but not so it has tension on the cable with your hand OFF the clutch.

Thank you to everyone that’s helped me with this; first time doing this stuff and I’ve been quite something! As I expected, relatively straight forward but I always expect the odd issues to come up.

Now another issue! So everything’s on, put the clutch cover on, tightened the bolts to spec, and adjusted the clutch cable. All seems ok! Put some oil in and let her run. She ran just fine..

Now, it definitely isn’t slipping anymore which is great but I can’t get into neutral. It’s virtually impossible. It’s super stiff. When riding, it goes into 2nd 3rd etc easily but can’t flick it into neutral. HOWEVER, if I turn the bike off, it goes into neutral like nothing!

Any idea what I’ve done wrong this time?

Cheers guys

[FJRider]

... Any idea what I’ve done wrong this time?

Cheers guys

Go down into first gear ... then gently ease it up into neutral.

I doubt it's anything you've done wrong. Any free play in the clutch cable when the clutch lever is fully released .. ??

Finding neutral is a common issue on some bikes. When the plates bed in bit it often usually improves.

[mnishi]

Go down into first gear ... then gently ease it up into neutral.

I doubt it's anything you've done wrong. Any free play in the clutch cable when the clutch lever is fully released .. ??

Finding neutral is a common issue on some bikes. When the plates bed in bit it often usually improves.

Yeah man tried and tested. Doesn’t wanna go into neutral haha.

Will take it out for a proper spin and see how she handles.

Cheers man’

[FJRider]

Yeah man tried and tested. Doesn’t wanna go into neutral haha.

Will take it out for a proper spin and see how she handles.

Cheers man’

It will happen ... eventually.