Help I need somebody... 😫 Newby Questions where to start?

[Dave79]

Hi guys,

I finally bought my first bike after procrastinating and looking for what felt like decades (months really) a 96 Suzuki Volty TU250
I'd been going and looking at bikes for awhile and didn't really consider the bike I ended up buying but once I rode it I decided to bite the bullet.

The volty didn't come with any service history and hadn't been registered for a few years so I thought I should see to getting the oil and filter replaced and would like to do this myself but haven't done anything like this before.
I then noticed that the oil screw cap is broken off where you turn it and I can't seem to undo it.
I'm new to all this and first bike and all was wondering if there is a sorry for the term but backyard mechanic that could help me out and could even show me how to do the oil and filter and take a look at the overall bike to see what if anything need attention, I can pay or shout beer or likewise.
I've also noticed the front forks are leaking fluid.

I'm a father of a 4 year old boy so between that and working full-time I don't really get the time to look on YouTube or Google for ways to learn the mechanical side of things.
I really want to look after and maintain this bike as it's my transport to work but I have to admit I don't know too much about the workings of of motorcycle but really keen to learn.

If anyone can provide guidance or advice it would be really appreciated.

Also wanting to know if I should start the bike up everyday to avoid the battery going flat? As it's an old bike I'm concerned the battery might be old too and to be honest I don't even know where to locate the battery on the bike...

Thanks in advance . New bike owner. Dave.

[Moi]

This might be of use: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1851044/Suzuki-Tu250x.html

These folks may also be helpful: TU250 Riders (http://tu250riders.com/index.php?sid=c662822b04de499fef73365d9be5d9b0)

Cheers

[Ginge09]

There’s a fair bit to unpack there.

You wouldn’t need to start the bike everyday to keep the battery charged. If you are riding it to work then that should be enough to keep it alive. Unless it’s stuffed. A quick and dirty way to measure the battery capability is to point the bike at a wall, turn ignition on and then the headlight. Don’t start the bike. If the battery can keep the light shining brightly on the wall for 2 minutes or so then it’s probably fine.

Battery is usually under the seat or behind a side panel. If it needs replacing try a Motobatt equivalent for whatever it has now. Cheap and quite reliable. Get something with enough CCA ( old Cranking Amps) so it can reliably run the starter motor. Presume the Volty is electric start?

Fork oil leaks are a WOF fail usually. Where is the leak? Likely fork seals but maybe not. There’s a trick you can do with a piece of thin plastic ( eg milk container ) to wipe around the inside of the seal to get rid of any junk that might be between the seal and the fork leg. It won’t fix the seal but might help slow the leak. Ultimately seals need replacing. Doable at home with the right gear and a manual. Expensive at a bike shop. Not a quick process. The forks need to be stripped.

Getting the oil filler cap off might require some butchery. Try a pair of vice grips. Or make a notch in the perimeter of the cap and gently tap the cap with a screwdriver and hammer. Oil change is sensible if the bike has been off the road for a while.

Four year old boys love to hand spanners to Dads working on bikes. Get him involved.

There is a TU forum that looks reasonably active. Might be worth a look.

[Dave79]

Thankyou guys for taking the time to read my post and replying, I'm new to this and keen to learn as much as possible.

It's a cool bike, I took it out for another ride today, not overly powerful but enough to keep up and blend with traffic on the motorway.

It starts easy and rides without any problems so I want to try to learn the maintenance side of things to keep the bike running well and to get the most out of it.

I'm enjoying it and will hopefully gain more confidence as I go.

Cheers. Dave.

[Dave79]

Thanks guys,

Ginge, thanks heaps for the tips I appreciate it, the left fork has a thinnish layer of oil/grease over the area of the tube that goes down into the fork leg (not sure if I'm using the right words for the fork parts) and there has been a few drips from around the seal after I've been riding.

Also unsure if the fuel petcock is working, should I always turn it off when not riding, or does it not make much difference? I think the guy I bought it off just left it on the fuel position.

In regards to the battery, say if I don't ride the bike for 3-4 days (as I sometimes have to take the car to work) would I need to start the bike say every other day just to keep the battery alive?

Thanks again. Dave

[Dave79]

Thanks heaps, I did the thing with wiping the plastic around the fork tube (sounds like a cooking show lol ) and it looks like it did the trick but don't know for sure as haven't gone for a ride yet due to the good old rain - how inconsiderate of the weather 😀 trust me to buy a bike on the only week forecasting rain the entire time, will go for a bit of a ride today as wanting to build confidence and i dont think I can avoid the rain for ever otherwise the bike will never see the light of day..

I managed to undo the oil filler cap too so I just have to find out what type/grade oil to refill with and how much and also what oil filter to use, I phoned repco but they didn't know and I haven't had any luck online, I pretty sure it's just 10W40 but unsure of the filter? Would it make much difference in the Brand of oil and would repco sell it or should i look/buy from somewhere else?

I'm in West Auckland and wanting to attempt doing the oil change asap but just wanting to make sure I buy the correct gear for it as I haven't done this before.

Cheers. Dave.

[george formby]

Make sure it is motorcycle specific oil, you don't want any of those nasty additives that cars use.

How to change the oil on a TU 2 fiddly. (https://youmotorcycle.com/how-to-change-oil-on-a-suzuki-tu250x.html)

[Dave79]

Thankyou George,

Would I need to buy/use a torque wrench for the oil filter or ok to do by hand?

Cheers. Dave

[jellywrestler]

Thankyou George,

Would I need to buy/use a torque wrench for the oil filter or ok to do by hand?

Cheers. Dave

depends on how you trust yourself to use tools, problem with bikes is you really need a inch pound and foot pound one to do all the maintenance.
get on TM and see if there's some cheap ones around you if that makes you happy and more comfortable using one.

[george formby]

Thankyou George,

Would I need to buy/use a torque wrench for the oil filter or ok to do by hand?

Cheers. Dave


That is a tough question.

I personally don't use one, cue cries of disbelief and horror. But I've never been one for going gorilla on me nuts.

The oil filter cap compresses a seal so the bolts don't need to be super tight, snug as the guy say's. The worst that will happen is a wee dribble of oil if they are not tight enough, in which case just another wee nip. Tighten bolts in rotation so they all stay under the same load and the cap sits evenly.

Get yourself a new seal, takes any worry out of re-using the old one.

Get a new sump plug washer, too. Be careful not too over tighten the sump plug, they can strip the sump if you really go TAF.

Check for leaks on the filter and sump plug after warming the oil up.

[Blackbird]

Thanks heaps, I did the thing with wiping the plastic around the fork tube (sounds like a cooking show lol ) and it looks like it did the trick but don't know for sure as haven't gone for a ride yet due to the good old rain - how inconsiderate of the weather 😀 trust me to buy a bike on the only week forecasting rain the entire time, will go for a bit of a ride today as wanting to build confidence and i dont think I can avoid the rain for ever otherwise the bike will never see the light of day..



Dave, with respect to the confidence thing, do the Ride Forever Bronze, Silver and Gold courses, you'll never regret it. They're inexpensive and sometimes free. With you living out west, you have easy access to Philip McDaid at Riderskills: https://www.riderskills.co.nz/.

Cheers,

Geoff

[Ginge09]

I’ve never used a torque wrench when replacing an oil filter. Get it tight, but not ridiculously tight. You’ll strip threads.

Super cheap and Repco are fine if you know what you are looking for but, as a rule, don’t do motorcycles. Find a bike shop.

As the lads suggested use bike specific oil. It matters in the clutch department which is different on s bike compared to a car.

Keep at it.

Did you locate the battery?

[iYRe]

For an old bike I'd use Penrite's 10w40 - supercheap sell it, it has a motorcycle on the front so you know its for motorcycles :P

[george formby]

For an old bike I'd use Penrite's 10w40 - supercheap sell it, it has a motorcycle on the front so you know its for motorcycles :P

Yup, I believe the spec is Jaso-ma.

[iYRe]

I think so too..

i find it makes things rattle a bit less, clutch a bit smoother, and just generally nicer.

And its Aussie, so why not eh?

[Navy Boy]

I think so too..

i find it makes things rattle a bit less, clutch a bit smoother, and just generally nicer.

And its Aussie, so why not eh?

Yep - I use Penrite's too. Thers's at least 3 versions of their bike-specific 10W-40 available. Their plain mineral, a semi-synthetic and the super-duper PAO and Ester-based fully synthetic. There may also be a standard fully synth too though I can't recall off the top of my head.

For the 250 Volty I'd plump for the Mineral or, if you're feeling posh, a semi-synthetic. JASO-MA is a must and the API rating will probaly be SL or higher. That should be fine for the Volty's motor. I run my DR650 on the Semi-synth 10W-50 and it seems to be fine.

:2thumbsup

[Dave79]

Thankyou guys,

I picked up the oil filter, o-ring seal and a new oil filler cap from Coleman's this afternoon and will go and buy the oil from Supercheap tomorrow.

Ginge, I located the battery and it looks fairly new so that was a nice surprise as the rest of the bike looks fairly old 😀

I went for another ride yesterday out to Piha Beach which ive been wanting to do ever since I bought the bike (last Thursday) it felt great, even rode through the rain on the way back, I definitely need to invest in some wet weather gear ⚙ though.

The fork is still leaking slightly so will have to eventually get ut looked at.
Not sure if there are many motorcycle mechanics out near where I stay but will have a look.

I'm going to attempt the oil change this weekend as I'm sure it's due for one and will be good for piece of mind 😌

Thanks again. Dave

[iYRe]

There's heaps of mechanics out your way, a good one in Kelston, but I cant remember his name. I would use George from Motorcycle Doctors, he'll give you a fair assessment of your bike and fix the stuff that really needs fixing.

[Dave79]

Thanks again guys, Supercheap has the Penrite full synthetic 10w40 for $72 for 4 litres so I'll go buy that and then have enough for another change six moths from now also.

Cheers. Dave.

[Ginge09]

Warm the bike up for a couple of minutes before you drop the oil out. Warm oil flows better and carries a bit more junk out of the system I reckon.

[george formby]

Thanks again guys, Supercheap has the Penrite full synthetic 10w40 for $72 for 4 litres so I'll go buy that and then have enough for another change six moths from now also.

Cheers. Dave.

Er, do a bit of homework before you spring for fully synth. Dinosaur or semi synth is recommended.

I have a 98 Yamaha with an engine which started life in the late 80's. If I use full synthetic the clutch slips if I give it the berries.

Hopefully someone will chime in with more info.

[Blackbird]

Er, do a bit of homework before you spring for fully synth. Dinosaur or semi synth is recommended.

I have a 98 Yamaha with an engine which started life in the late 80's. If I use full synthetic the clutch slips if I give it the berries.

Hopefully someone will chime in with more info.

One factor is that some, if not all, car synthetics have different additive packages compared with bike lubricants. Taking the motorcycle version of Mobil 1 for example, it has one item omitted that's in the car version. This is because that particular additive may cause wet clutches to slip. As others have indicated, the use of a semi-synthetic or multigrade might be better suited, as well as cheaper. Full synthetics also do a great job of removing contaminants from the engine. Unfortunately, if you have carbon build-up round oils seals on higher k engines, they may well leak. We experienced this on the first MX5 my wife owned after we switched to Mobil1.

[george formby]

One factor is that some, if not all, car synthetics have different additive packages compared with bike lubricants. Taking the motorcycle version of Mobil 1 for example, it has one item omitted that's in the car version. This is because that particular additive may cause wet clutches to slip. As others have indicated, the use of a semi-synthetic or multigrade might be better suited, as well as cheaper. Full synthetics also do a great job of removing contaminants from the engine. Unfortunately, if you have carbon build-up round oils seals on higher k engines, they may well leak. We experienced this on the first MX5 my wife owned after we switched to Mobil1.

Yup, I've heard of the seal issue. Even worse if you decide diesel oil will do.

After finding out the clutch slip problem on my bike was due to the synthetic oil I went for cheap and cheerful bike specific mineral oil.

It was not an instant fix, took 2 oil changes for the problem to go away.

I just use cheap, random, semi synth now which meets the correct spec and change often.

[Dave79]

Hey guys,

I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40 Technosynthese as I went back to the bike shop to have a look and thought whilst I'm there get the oil that they had on the shelf.
Hopefully this particular oil will be ok?

The guy at the shop said it is semi-synth so I bought a 2litre and planning on changing the oil and filter tomorrow (Friday) as I have the day off. Hopefully this oil won't cause the clutch to slip?

Thanks again. Dave

[Blackbird]

Motul 5100 is what I used on several of my later model bikes over the last decade or so. It has a mineral base and you should be fine. It's more than you actually need though. The earlier Penrite suggestions were spot on.

[SaferRides]

Hey guys,

I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40 Technosynthese as I went back to the bike shop to have a look and thought whilst I'm there get the oil that they had on the shelf.
Hopefully this particular oil will be ok?

The guy at the shop said it is semi-synth so I bought a 2litre and planning on changing the oil and filter tomorrow (Friday) as I have the day off. Hopefully this oil won't cause the clutch to slip?

Thanks again. DaveThat will be absolutely fine for your bike. The only issue with Motul can be cost, but that is more to do with bike shop profit margins than the oil itself.



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[roogazza]

350672 Some monkey tightened this sump plug by the looks ?

remember tights ,tight , broken is too tight !!!! lol

As you progress you'll get the feel for it . :msn-wink:

[pritch]

Hey guys,
I ended up buying Motul 4T 5100 10W40


Motul is fine, I've used their products in my last four bikes. When you get a manual you should be able to check the manufacturer's recommendations as to grade. Meantime what you've bought should be fine.

[Moi]

Have you downloaded the workshop manual?

It'll give you a lot of help with doing those jobs you may want to tackle yourself.

[Dave79]

Hi guys, did the oil/filter change and on the bike with the help of a friend who's experienced with bikes which was great and on the actual bike it sais "1300ml" but online it said if changing filter then it will require 1400ml all up so I went down the middle and refilled with 1350 as that still showed high on the oil sight window, another 50ml will put it over full going by the window when the bikes level which is tricky as it doesn't have a centrestand. Hopefully it's the right adequate amount?

I was rechecking oil level this morning and going round the bike in general and I've noticed a Crack in one of the two headpipes right near where it goes into the head.

Is there something I can put around it to stop it getting worse? Or anything that will fill it etc?
It's a fine crack around about half the diameter of the pipe

Thanks again guys I've learnt so much already from everyone and really do appreciate it.

Cheers. Dave.

[pete376403]

That will need welding or pipe replacement. Exhaust wrap will not help and may well make it worse (makes the pipe too hot, accelerates corrosion).

[Dave79]

Thanks mate, I'll see if I can find a welder as I only just noticed it the other day and want to do something before it gets anyworse