Chain oilers....yes or no

[1/32 man]

I have recently bought a copy of the Nemo/Cobrra type of manually operated oiler.
There is debate elsewhere over them being unnecessary but looking for coments either way.
TIA.

[SaferRides]

This should be interesting...

It's good to keep some lube on the chain to prevent corrosion and reduce sprocket wear. I prefer dry lubes and am currently using Maxima chain wax, which seems to do the job.

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[nerrrd]

It's a yes from me, I had a Tutoro (https://tutorochainoiler.com/?srsltid=AfmBOop_IRgUFpGEy6hx-U3ilz7JjxCu_UuGeVZTxMsi4F1Al_DQTSLg) automatic (but mechanical, not electric) chain oiler on two bikes over 10 years, which I bought from a local supplier who brought them in.

Just recently the reservoir cracked and spilled the oil everywhere, so now I don't have one, but it seems to have worked very well over that time. I'd have another one.

[HenryDorsetCase]

didnt early HOnda CB750s have one that misted oil onto the chain from the crankcase?

I can see the argument in the olden times for them before chains had O-rings and the constant battle was to keep lubrication between the pins and rollers.... like it is now with a pushbike chain.

But a modern chain doesnt really need it and all it does is throw shit alll over the back of your bike. Never had one.

[R650R]

Anyone who has lived a neglected chain will feel the difference as they spin rear wheel on a stand after. It’s mechanical sympathy 101.
The biggest killer of drive chains is worn sprockets, how do sprockets wear??? Metal on metal contact so a little lube goes a long way to stopping that first little bit of wear biting in. You can also have too much combined with not cleaning chain and creating a grinding paste.
Nearly every moving mechanical device in world specifies some form of lubrication on moving metal parts yet somehow we think drive chains with 150hp transmitted through contact patch size of two match heads is immune.
Every time you hear of someone who never lubes their chain it might pay to note that perhaps they are a dry weather wider that only does couple thousand km each year and maybe never uses full power.
Had scottoiler on a previous bike was great. Not at moment due to various reasons and servicing chain is good rainy day therapy in man cave.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Every time you hear of someone who never lubes their chain it might pay to note that perhaps they are a dry weather wider that only does couple thousand km each year and maybe never uses full power.


I feel seen....

though I do lube my chain when I give the old girl a clean. So at least once every couple of years... whether it needs it or not.

[pete376403]

Scottoiler on the KLR has kept chain and sprockets alive longer than they should have, given the conditions it is used in.

[TheDemonLord]

HELL YES.

When I used to ride, I had a Hayabusa - I dailyd it from Gulf Harbour to Penrose - 60 km one-way, so a 120 km round trip. Every week day to work. At one point I was going through new set of tyres every 3 months and a new Chain and Sprocket set every 9.

Got a Scott Oiler - never had to worry about my Chain and Sprocket again, I think when I got rid of the bike, that Chain had done 40,000 km and hadnt needed to be adjusted.

If you are doing high Km - it is one of the best purchases you can get.

[Gremlin]

Absolutely yes to an oiler. I've used a manual Scottoiler for more than a decade and a half, good stuff. Better was using a Tutoro oiler on another bike (muuuuch cheaper oil) especially as it's an adventure bike. Dial it up to effectively wash the chain and keep it well lubricated.

[Laava]

I had a Pro Oiler from Belgium on my V Strom and the first chain and sprocket set went 56,000 hard km. It used engine oil and was fed electronically, only lubing while moving and increasing rate with speed. Could be geared up for off road stuff. Only downside was the mess it made on the rear wheel and swingarm. It did not end up with a thick spooge under the sprocket cover tho, and was easy to clean up as was the chain. Didn't bother me but cant see anyone putting one on their expensive Ducati etc.

[admenk]

Scottoiler on both my chain bikes:2thumbsup

[1/32 man]

Thanks gentlemen....I will look further into the oiler world and see what I see.

[pritch]

I've had a Scott chain oiler on my last three bikes. Once set up they are trouble free. Wouldn't be without one - unless I had shaft drive again.

[R650R]

Now for all you guys who buy 200kg plus adv bikes and worry about weight and travelling light and cheap because you have no money left over; Bret Tkacs did a video where he uses the residual diesel fuel in truck stop fuel pump nozzle to clean and lube chain for free. All you need is a rag.
Although I disagree slightly that that’s all you need(prob doesn’t matter in short term in holiday) it does reinforce cleaning is prob more important than lube.
And diesel fuel is pretty much same as wd40 anyway.

[rastuscat]

didnt early HOnda CB750s have one that misted oil onto the chain from the crankcase?

I can see the argument in the olden times for them before chains had O-rings and the constant battle was to keep lubrication between the pins and rollers.... like it is now with a pushbike chain.


I'm now hot waxing then drip waxing my bicycle chains. Makes the chain, cassette and chainrings last several times longer, and is far cleaner. Needs more faffing, but is worth the trouble.

[R650R]

I'm now hot waxing then drip waxing my bicycle chains. Makes the chain, cassette and chainrings last several times longer, and is far cleaner. Needs more faffing, but is worth the trouble.

Highly recommend this stuff been using for years on mtb.
It cleans chain as you apply and carries the wax in with the solvent within. Wipe chain with rag afterwards. Nozzle on bottle real small so lasts ages.

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/rock-n-roll-extreme-blue-chain-lube

[FLUB]

I've used Scott Oilers on every chain driven bike I've owned since the early 80's. They are great once set-up correctly and only drip when the bike is running.


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[HenryDorsetCase]

I'm now hot waxing then drip waxing my bicycle chains. Makes the chain, cassette and chainrings last several times longer, and is far cleaner. Needs more faffing, but is worth the trouble.

I have quick links in all mine and have switched from kerosene (cause of dermatitis) to Simple Green. I shake the chain in a container of simple green to agitate the grot off it, then give it a scrub and a rinse in clean simple green. Then I hang it and dry it with a heat gun. Then I use a wet lube and wipe off the excess. It works very well though the ebike gives the chain an absolute hammering... its just a cost of doing business. Commuter bike is fine and it actually does the most miles in the worst weather.

The hot waxing seems like a faff. Having said that in the 80's I bought a can of stuff you heated with a camping stove with your motorbike chain in it then hung to dry. I actually did it inside in the kitchen and Mum went fucking ballistic. Only cos i didnt have any fuel for the camping stove.

[pete376403]

[QUOTE=HenryDorsetCase;1131228061
The hot waxing seems like a faff. Having said that in the 80's I bought a can of stuff you heated with a camping stove with your motorbike chain in it then hung to dry. I actually did it inside in the kitchen and Mum went fucking ballistic. Only cos i didnt have any fuel for the camping stove.[/QUOTE]

Duckhams? I used that for my speedway bike chains (pre dating O ring chains) and yes it gats a bit smokey but it did make the chains last

[SaferRides]

Out of curiosity, I looked up the maintenance log for the R1. I fitted a DID VX chain soon after I bought it, which was the cheapest X- ring chain I could find. I also replaced the sprockets at the same time, with an aluminium on the rear.

The chain and sprockets lasted 52,000 km using a DuPont dry lube. The rear sprocket was still OK when I replaced it. Only replaced the chain because some of the X-ring seals had failed and it was starting to wear unevenly.

I am by no means fastidious with chain maintenance. The chain was cleaned twice a year at the most and lubed maybe every 800-1,000 km.

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[rastuscat]

Out of curiosity, I looked up the maintenance log for the R1. I fitted a DID VX chain soon after I bought it, which was the cheapest X- ring chain I could find. I also replaced the sprockets at the same time, with an aluminium on the rear.

The chain and sprockets lasted 52,000 km using a DuPont dry lube. The rear sprocket was still OK when I replaced it. Only replaced the chain because some of the X-ring seals had failed and it was starting to wear unevenly.

I am by no means fastidious with chain maintenance. The chain was cleaned twice a year at the most and lubed maybe every 800-1,000 km.

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Most of the motorbikes I've had have been shaft drive, I've even had 3 with belt drive (F800ST). So I'm not a motorcycle chain person. Had one F800GS with a chain, found the maintenance scary, just from not really knowing what I was doing.

Loving the cleanliness of wax on my bicycle chains.

[Gremlin]

I am by no means fastidious with chain maintenance. The chain was cleaned twice a year at the most and lubed maybe every 800-1,000 km.
Well that's fastidious in my book!

[1/32 man]

I have fitted my chain oiler and after two attempts to get the drip feed pipe positioned correctly and studied the internet regarding filling the reservoir,(80/90 gear oil) I have had a test ride.(150km)

Chain looks evenly lubricated, some might say clean.
Chain seems to roll better/easier. Maybe there was a tight spot.
Rear wheel isn't covered in muck.

So I will continue with using it for a while yet before a definite yes or no.
I think I will check the chain adjustment next and see how everything goes from there.

The test ride was over Argyle Road which runs between highway fifty and highway two along and over the hill tops. Did this yesterday with mates and had refreshments at the Goathorn cafe in Waipawa before riding home via Ongaonga and Tikokino on the lovely highway fifty.

[pritch]

it does reinforce cleaning is prob more important than lube.


The chain oiler seems to keep the chain clean. I don't clean it but it looks shite and briny.

[SaferRides]

I have fitted my chain oiler and after two attempts to get the drip feed pipe positioned correctly and studied the internet regarding filling the reservoir,(80/90 gear oil) I have had a test ride.(150km)
.
Which one did you fit?


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[sugilite]

HELL YES.

When I used to ride, I had a Hayabusa - I dailyd it from Gulf Harbour to Penrose - 60 km one-way, so a 120 km round trip. Every week day to work. At one point I was going through new set of tyres every 3 months and a new Chain and Sprocket set every 9.

My God man! So at 6 days a week, 9 months = 25,000 odd km's - you must have been doing horn monos and lighting up the rear tyre at every opportunity! :gob:



The test ride was over Argyle Road which runs between highway fifty and highway two along and over the hill tops. Did this yesterday with mates and had refreshments at the Goathorn cafe in Waipawa before riding home via Ongaonga and Tikokino on the lovely highway fifty.


That is a FANTASTIC road! Have deep appreciation for the burgers at Ongaonga general store!

I've never run a chain oiler as my regime was lube the chain after pretty much every ride, a hangover from my dirt bike learnings I guess. All my riding mates that run the scott oilers swear by them, so probs cannot go wrong there.

[Berries]

I detest chain maintenance, it is so 1950's. Seriously, it it the one thing I hate about motorbikes so i had toyed with the idea of a Scottoiler but never got round to it.

Sick of having to lube it, sick of having to clean it, sick of the mess it makes of the rear wheel, sick of tight spots and totally sick of having to adjust the fucking thing with shit swing arm markings that are no help and no centre stand. Absolute bag of shit.

Nearly went to the dark side to get shaft drive but the R Nine T variants seemed to be more style than substance. Finally got a bike that runs the 'maintenance free' BMW M Endurance chain. Will be testing that statement out.

[BMWST?]

I have alwyas thought an enclosed chain would be a great idea for a bike. Tey would lok pretty chunky i guess

[Laava]

I detest chain maintenance, it is so 1950's. Seriously, it it the one thing I hate about motorbikes so i had toyed with the idea of a Scottoiler but never got round to it.

Sick of having to lube it, sick of having to clean it, sick of the mess it makes of the rear wheel, sick of tight spots and totally sick of having to adjust the fucking thing with shit swing arm markings that are no help and no centre stand. Absolute bag of shit.

Nearly went to the dark side to get shaft drive but the R Nine T variants seemed to be more style than substance. Finally got a bike that runs the 'maintenance free' BMW M Endurance chain. Will be testing that statement out.
Wow, not heard of that! Do you get ginsu knives with that?

[Berries]

Hold five, I will have to ask the wife.



Edit - Possibly. She threatened to chib me for interrupting the sailing.

[Laava]

Hold five, I will have to ask the wife.



Edit - Possibly. She threatened to chib me for interrupting the sailing.
I like the cut of her gib!

[1/32 man]

Someone asked what one did I get ....I presume you mean the oiler.

Being on a meagre budget I opted for a Gidibii...which I undertand is a copy of the Cobraa or Nemo2 design. This is operated manually as the rider chooses by rotating the reservoir cap quarter of a turn..
Obviously it is made in China because you get a choice of about ten colours. I chose titanium because my bike is mostly satin grey.
The instructions were confusing to say the least and I admit to looking on youtube to figure out how to fill the reservoir.
The most useless part was the final component which was the piece that directs the dispensing tube to the sprocket...in the end I made one myself from brazing rod and screwed in in place using the swingarm bobbin bolt.

Another short outing today so I will see how it goes....I dont think I will need to turn the reservoir cap for a while yet.

[roogazza]

Never owned one myself but mates have had them.
My rides are 160kms these days, so I spray the chain every second ride.

Two things I do maintenance wise, are tyre pressures and lube the chain... :msn-wink:

[BMWST?]

Never owned one myself but mates have had them.
My rides are 160kms these days, so I spray the chain every second ride.

Two things I do maintenance wise, are tyre pressures and lube the chain... :msn-wink:

what is your chain lube of choice sir? A t7 maybe in my future(or an Africa twin,or 1250 gs)

[R650R]

I have alwyas thought an enclosed chain would be a great idea for a bike. Tey would lok pretty chunky i guess

Once you start adding all the extra pieces you may as well go shaft drive. An enclosed system probably introduce same problems as shaft drive too in terms of if there’s a problem you can’t see til too late.
Wonder if the chain would get too hot/increased wear with no cooling airflow. If you look at industrial machinery and forklifts working outdoors chain systems are mostly never enclosed just token guards here and there to protect limbs and debris falling on them.
Its the cardinal rule in engineering that simplest option always best.

[BMWST?]

Once you start adding all the extra pieces you may as well go shaft drive. An enclosed system probably introduce same problems as shaft drive too in terms of if there’s a problem you can’t see til too late.
Wonder if the chain would get too hot/increased wear with no cooling airflow. If you look at industrial machinery and forklifts working outdoors chain systems are mostly never enclosed just token guards here and there to protect limbs and debris falling on them.
Its the cardinal rule in engineering that simplest option always best.

Dont agree. in my mind an enclosed chain allows the chain to almost run in an oil bath.The chain enclosure can be completley free at the swingarm pivot/engine cases so there is no transmission of any forces via the enclosure ( some plastic or rubber type bellows seal arrangement)

[pete376403]

Dont agree. in my mind an enclosed chain allows the chain to almost run in an oil bath.The chain enclosure can be completley free at the swingarm pivot/engine cases so there is no transmission of any forces via the enclosure ( some plastic or rubber type bellows seal arrangement)

Old MZs and Jawas used to run full rear chain enclosures. Between that, the lack of power and the oil leakage from the gearbox sprocket shaft, the chains would outlast the bikes

[SaferRides]

Someone asked what one did I get ....I presume you mean the oiler.

Being on a meagre budget I opted for a Gidibii...which I undertand is a copy of the Cobraa or Nemo2 design. This is operated manually as the rider chooses by rotating the reservoir cap quarter of a turn..
Obviously it is made in China because you get a choice of about ten colours. I chose titanium because my bike is mostly satin grey.
The instructions were confusing to say the least and I admit to looking on youtube to figure out how to fill the reservoir.
The most useless part was the final component which was the piece that directs the dispensing tube to the sprocket...in the end I made one myself from brazing rod and screwed in in place using the swingarm bobbin bolt.

Another short outing today so I will see how it goes....I dont think I will need to turn the reservoir cap for a while yet.
I was curious and had a look online. Found a very strange YouTube video showing how to fill the reservoir a number of times, but they are about the price of a can of chain lube. I might order one and have a play.

One question, when do you do the thing with the reservoir cap - does the bike have to be moving? It looks like the oil comes out quickly, so if the bike is stationary, all the oil ends up on a few links of the chain.

Also, what oil should you use? 90 wt gear oil?

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[roogazza]

what is your chain lube of choice sir? A t7 maybe in my future(or an Africa twin,or 1250 gs)

cheers BMWST, using Castrol Chain spray at the mo. Found at your local Repco.

[SaferRides]

I've used the Motul Factory Line stuff for the last 2 years, although I changed to Maxima chain wax recently as I was over trying to keep the rear wheel clean. But I don't think the Maxima penetrates under the rollers very well, so I might change back to Motul and live with regular wheel cleaning.

I tried the Castrol a long time ago, it did the job and was relatively cheap.



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[TheDemonLord]

My God man! So at 6 days a week, 9 months = 25,000 odd km's - you must have been doing horn monos and lighting up the rear tyre at every opportunity! :gob:

Haha - I wish, nah, it was the fact that it was all Motorway riding and it was my fat-ass, so the middle section was just getting worn down on the rear.

The edges of the tyre had plenty of life in them, just not enough corners in my commute to spread the load around.

[Moi]

For those who, like me, don't have a chain oiler setup... the plastic bit is from "Grease Ninja" https://greaseninja.com/.

I understand there's a company in Australia that sells them as well.

[F5 Dave]

Golly is this thread still going?

I think I had some duckams, or was that my brother? Long time ago.

I think in the last 20 odd years, proper x ring chains have increased reliability immensely. I got 54,000 on my 675s std chain and only replaced it as it was getting a bit worn and I'd had it's replacement on the shelf for over a year in anticipation.

On tour I now carry a thin piece of wood that hooks over the sw bobbin (on other side of sidestand propping wheeljust off theground) and makes the daily lube (lots of ks in inclement weather) super easy.

My Scottoiler got sold on my RF9 and I never bothered to replace it. Maybe commute bike would be worthwhile, but I'm too close to get my gear on, plus school run.

[nzspokes]

I'm now hot waxing then drip waxing my bicycle chains. Makes the chain, cassette and chainrings last several times longer, and is far cleaner. Needs more faffing, but is worth the trouble.

As somebody that recently retired from being in the bicycle trade and a mechanic for 40 plus years, mate ya dreaming.

Waxing is an old wifes tail that keeps giving.

[FLUB]

As somebody that recently retired from being in the bicycle trade and a mechanic for 40 plus years, mate ya dreaming.

Waxing is an old wifes tail that keeps giving.

In the words of Miyagi-san, "wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off......".


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[1/32 man]

One question, when do you do the thing with the reservoir cap - does the bike have to be moving? It looks like the oil comes out quickly, so if the bike is stationary, all the oil ends up on a few links of the chain.

Also, what oil should you use? 90 wt gear oil?

I went through a bit of a learning curve for sure.
I made up a mounting bracket for the reservoir so I could mount it on the frame....and I made up a tube tip gizmo from brazing rod to direct the tip of the dispensing tube to the sprocket edge/chain link meeting point.
I did have oil continually exiting the system at the beginning but once I figured out the filling process it stopped.
Before riding off on my journey I turned the cap of the reservoir quarter of a turn and didn't stop riding for about 75km.....ie the end of my journey.
Inspecting the chain and oiler....the chain looked evenly covered in oil. The oiler was not emitting oil. The rear rim wasnt covered in splatter...only a few markings.
I used 80/90 gear oil from SCA...the blue stuff. $25 per litre bottle.

So all up I have spent approx $100 and some time and energy and currently think it was worth it.

[MarkH]

I've had a Scott Oiler on a DR650, then a Tutoro oiler on my '17 Africa Twin. Now for my current bike I haven't decided on what to go for. I preferred the Tutoro oiler over the Scott Oiler, but I'm seriously thinking about trying a Nemo 2 oiler.
In my case the Tutoro might have an issue when I'm travelling in my motorhome with my bike in the trailer, the vibrations of travel may make the oiler run while the chain is stationary, leaving a puddle on the floor of the trailer. The Nemo 2 oiler would not have such an issue, since it only operates after manually starting it. I really don't want to piss about with a vacuum line or electrics, so I'm not keen on going with a Scott Oiler.

[pete376403]

. I really don't want to piss about with a vacuum line or electrics, so I'm not keen on going with a Scott Oiler.

Vacuum on the KLR wan't too hard, a Tee onto the port that the vacuum fuel tap connects to, easy. Also if worried about oi leaking with the Scott, just turn the top cap fully anti clockwise. Turned off. A friend had a Loobman on this Funduro, basically a plastic bottle of oil mounted at the handlebars, with a pipe leading to the chain. Squeeze the bottle occasionally.

[husaberg]

I seen this on the net today, I think its brilliant, KISS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=Wb01cxFS1bw

A primer bulb is $2.10 or $3.5
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/lawnmowers/parts-accessories/listing/4896739 (https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/lawnmowers/parts-accessories/listing/4896739461)
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/garden-power-tools/trimmers-cutters/listing/4893611816

Reservoir $5 to 7.5
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/brakes/listing/4900234372

add in some tubing
$10-15 a meter maybe

[Jantar]

I swear by the Scott Oiler. The point to remember is that modern chains actually need very little lubrication, it is the sprockets that the oil is protecting. Automatic oilers do a great job of lubricating that interface between chain and sprockets, and prevent rusting. I st mine on one drop of oil about every 1 minute 20 seconds. This is slightly less oil than is recommended, but I find it is a good compromise between lubricating the chain and sprockets while not flinging oil everywhere.

[SaferRides]

I swear by the Scott Oiler. The point to remember is that modern chains actually need very little lubrication, it is the sprockets that the oil is protecting.
Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the bushes as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.



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[pete376403]

Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the pins as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.

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The grease between the pin and roller should do this part, assuming the O or X rings are intact. Also if the seals ARE intact they will keep the oil out just as well as the keep the grease in

[SaferRides]

The grease between the pin and roller should do this part, assuming the O or X rings are intact. Also if the seals ARE intact they will keep the oil out just as well as the keep the grease inThis diagram should explain.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/e4bd731a3a125cedf90d458fc9f36afc.jpg

[pete376403]

This diagram should explain.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240913/e4bd731a3a125cedf90d458fc9f36afc.jpg

yeah ok we were both somewhat incorrect. You said the roller rotates on the pins, but as your diagram shows the roller rotates on the bush. And I said the "grease between pin and roller " where I should have said "pin and bush". I also said the seal keeps keeps the oil out of the roller, which clearly it cannot as it is on the other side of the inner plate. However we both agree that chain oilers serve a purpose.

[SaferRides]

Yes, I meant to say bush, not pin.

Not much lubrication of the rollers is required, and I doubt it makes a significant difference to chain life as wear between the pin and bush mostly determines this. The previous chain on the R1 was replaced at 50,000 km because of uneven wear after the X- rings started to fail - there was only slight wear of the sprockets.

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[Hobbyhorse]

I have used a Nemo oiler for several years and am happy with it. I give the barrel top a quarter of a turn every time I fill up with petrol .... about 300K.

[Jantar]

Not quite correct as the rollers rotate slightly on the bushes as they "roll" in and out of the valley (?) between the teeth. But a decent chain oiler should lubricate that area effectively.



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Which is why I said "need very little lubrication" rather than "need no lubrication"