Parking a bike up and it's battery.

[Flyingpony]

While your bike has been sitting idle for several months or longer, what do you all do to prevent our expensive bike batteries from dieing before their time is due?

Two years ago I parked my bike up for a short time. All up it was four months and halfway through this period, it got used for a week. One month after returning back into full-time service, the then not even 18-month-old Yusa battery died.

At the end of each two-month block the battery held enough juice to kick the engine over using electric start, but there wasn't enough juice to keep the electronic ignition module alive and give a spark. Fired up first pop with the kick-start.

Don't own a battery charger or maintainer and the jury is out if I shall purchase one. The battery will be disconnected because there's a current draw when the ignition is off. Which really shouldn't be happening Mr Suzuki! Proof: trip counter gets reset if battery is disconnected.

Heard that it's possible to wire up the bike battery from time to time to the car battery, both 12v, and then the two batteries would electrically level off. But with the car battery having a much higher amp potential I'm worried it might cook the bike battery. Should the car engine be running during the 15 minutes they're wired up encase it gets drained too much? But that might cook the bike battery even more with the 80amp or so alternator pumping away. What's your experience with this idea?

Thanks,

[Sniper]

Leave me the keys and I'll make sure its gets a good 20min run every week? Or proberbly the best is to borrow a charger everytime you need one.

[Hoon]

A Battery charger/tender is like half the price of a new battery.

[TwoSeven]

Remove the battery from the bike, put it in a box in a cool place and leave.

I've just charged up a battery thats been on my bits shelf for the last 5 years. Holding full charge just fine.

[skidz]

The secret is to ride your bike at all times. They won't disolve in the rain.

[FROSTY]

Ill second hoon--Buy a battery charger and charge it up once a month.
One trick I used to do was run a radio offf of the battery whilst I worked in the gargre. It would use up the battery then I'd charge it up --seemrd to make em last ages

[Phenoix]

You can connect the car battery to the bike battery and allow it to level off.
Do not have the car running as the battery voltage is higher when it is running due to the alternater.
Make sure you ignition is off, and your kill switch.
15mins wont kill the battery from over AMP's
I have done this afew times when I had FUBAR electrics.

If you choose to store the battery, put it in a box. and elevated off concreate. The propeties of concreate will flaten the battery over time

[James Deuce]

Park bike up.

fFront and rear stands so both tyres are off the ground to prevent flat spots. Either fill tank to the top and pop some stabiliser in, or drain completely and leave cap open for a couple of months to evaporate the remaining fuel. Otherwise the vapours inside can make a nice little bomb. It isn't petrol that burns, it's the evaporating gas.

Remove battery and store like Two Seven says or put it on a tender/charger.

[Flyingpony]

Thanks all!

New info regarding batteries and concrete floors. Will keep that in mind may I need to store a battery somewhere. Also handy to know when buying a battery from the display area - never pick the one sitting on the floor.

About avoiding a flat battery, got two options. Buy a battery charger and/or attend some short range KB rides now that I've got some more free time with University being out.

Petrol tank is full, fuel tap is in off position, and battery has been disconnected. Doubt it'll be parked up long enough for tyres to suffer from flat spots but do have some car axle stands to fashion something if need be.

[GB500nz]

No, concrete floors do not affect batteries. And yes, connecting up your car battery will cook the bike battery, which should not be charged at more than about 2 Amps except by the bike's system. Car batteries will happily discharge 80 Amps at a time. If you're not going to use the bike for a long time, sell it -- you don't need it. But if you're going overseas or something and really love it, get a battery maintainer. Briscoe's Marine have solar ones specifically for motorbikes for $39.95.

[thealmightytaco]

If you choose to store the battery, put it in a box. and elevated off concreate. The propeties of concreate will flaten the battery over time

How in the flaming narnakins does concrete affect electric charge? Does the severe cooling of the concrete cause unsightly effects on the plates or something?

[stocky]

no batterys are not affected by concrete... just diconnect the battery and uses a maintainer or put it on a charger a day or 2 before u want to use the bike again..

[inlinefour]

Ive got a wee collection and I just change the batteries (12 & 6 volt accordingly) between the bikes as required.

[Jamiepo]

Hey FP I am in CHCH and have a charger so if you need one at any time just PM me and I would be more than happy to give you a lend of it.

Jamie

[ducatilover]

A Battery charger/tender is like half the price of a new battery.
how well do they work?? i might invest in one as i have a honda :dodge: will one fit in my backpack??

[notme]

Storing a battery on a concrete floor will *NOT* discharge it. All lead-acid batteries will naturally self-discharge which can result in loss of capacity from sulfation. The rate of self-discharge is most influenced by the temperature of the battery's electrolyte and the chemistry of the plates.


In the early 1900s, when battery cases were made of porous materials such as tar-lined wood boxes, storing batteries on concrete floor would accelerate their natural self-discharge. Modern battery cases are made of polypropylene or hard rubber. These cases are sealed better, so external leakage-causing discharge is no longer a problem, provided the top of the battery is clean and free from wet or dried electrolyte.

Having said that......large differences in temperature could cause electrolyte stratification within very large batteries (>250 AH) which could accelerate it's internal "leakage" or self-discharge if the battery is sitting on an extremely cold concrete, stone or steel floor in a warm room, boat or submarine. Stirrers or bubblers are often used on these types of large batteries to keep the electrolyte from stratifying.


Here in my lab, I have a 40,000 Amp capacity battery, sitting directly on the concrete floor. It's worth a shitload of money and is critical test equipment to my company....so we wouldn't do anything to screw it up! :whistle:


For maintennence you could get something like


http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/436679a201ba1d842742c0a87f990744/Product/View/M9531


at $35 - odd, it's cheaper than a new battery!

[Ixion]

Fark! 40000 Amps !!. That's some battery. Can I short it out wiv an RSJ. Huh, huh, please, cummin, letz do it. I like *big* bangs.

[notme]

Sure why not?

Let me get behind the (reinforced steel) door of the battery room first huh?
:devil2:

[Swoop]

Hi All! A new user to the forums so postings might be a bit bizarre for a while...

There is a great solar powered trickle charger available (most boat shops have them) that you place in an area that the direct sunlight can get to, like a window - and the other ends go onto the battery to keep topped up. A mate has one on his boat and swears by it!
Hope this helps.