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gamgee
6th November 2005, 14:02
hey, i have heard there is a chemical you can put in your tank (when empty) to kill rust and prevent it from coming back (for quite a while) just wondering if anyone knows the name, where to get, and a rough idea on the price, and any tips if you've got them?

Ixion
6th November 2005, 14:16
POR15 is the stuff you want.

Lots of info in This thread (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=16697&highlight=POR15)

And others if you do a search on POR15. Not sure where you'd get it in Dunedin, but I imagine anywhere that sells car paint type stuff. Alternatively U-pol Products are the NZ distributor, P O Box 1923 Palmerston Nth, Ph 0800428282 or 06 355 1180 or sales@por15.co.nz. They should be able to tell you.

froggyfrenchman
6th November 2005, 14:21
I use fiberglass resin. Empty tank. Tip in alitre of resin and shake round for bout an hour to get even coverage. Stops the crap gettn into your gas, wont do much to stop the rust though

gamgee
6th November 2005, 14:26
just searching round and some said to use this (http://www.jelmar.com/CLRgroup.asp?p=CLRbasic) first also said to use that POR15 stuff, how much is it normally? I'm buying a GPX250 (ninja) and heard they can be prone to rusty tanks, so i'm going to do everything i can to keep it from rusting

Coyote
6th November 2005, 14:28
POR15 is the stuff you want.

Lots of info in This thread (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=16697&highlight=POR15)

And others if you do a search on POR15. Not sure where you'd get it in Dunedin, but I imagine anywhere that sells car paint type stuff. Alternatively U-pol Products are the NZ distributor, P O Box 1923 Palmerston Nth, Ph 0800428282 or 06 355 1180 or sales@por15.co.nz. They should be able to tell you.
Be warned. It's not going to look good. We've used this on our old '84 Laser and it has worked perfectly but it looks like crap. It appears silver at first and you think that's not too bad having silver patches all over the car, but then as it dries out it turns into a mucusy burnt yellow colour. If you care about the appearence of your bike try to use it in unseen places and repair rust in places that can be seen

Also it has only stopped the rust from growing, but it hasn't killed it (rust can't be killed, it can only be cut off and be replaced with new metal). If you're looking at a preventative I don't think it's what you're after

FROSTY
6th November 2005, 14:30
If its only surface rust I take the fuel tap off and tape over the hole --then throw about a cupfull of fish tank stones in the tank.--Theyn I shake it like all beeejebbers.the stones wont damage the tank but will break away all the rust that formed inside.I then empty the whole lot out -bit of a job and bung in a liter of turps and give it a good wash out.
fish tank stones--dont damage the tank and wont block ya fuel lines

gamgee
6th November 2005, 14:39
yeah it's just preventative, so whats the best course of action?
CLR wash and a clear fuel filter to tell me when it rusting sounds like a plan...

HenryDorsetCase
6th November 2005, 14:44
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=4461.0


Here is a really good discussion of options, including the cheapo, "go down to the pharmacy supply shop and buy stuff you have never heard of" option.

interesting using the phosporic acid etch method to remove rust, then a sealer.

I looked at a kit in a box at Cycletreads Christchurch last time I was in there. a three part process it looked like,,, it was about $70, and I cant remember the name of it.

HenryDorsetCase
6th November 2005, 14:52
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rrust.html

check that as well.

gamgee
6th November 2005, 14:54
sorry what? i've got one person telling me not to seal as a preventative measure, and one telling me to seal as a preventitive, can someone clarify?
either way sounds like starting off with CLR is the way to go as well as putting a clear fuel filter on

raster
6th November 2005, 15:03
yeah it's just preventative, so whats the best course of action?
CLR wash and a clear fuel filter to tell me when it rusting sounds like a plan...

The Por15 is a 3 step process, takes about a week, works great, cost me $85 for the separate items as the place I went to has no kits left in stock. Designed as a fuel tank coating inside, I coated the underside of the tank as well. I had several pinholes in my tank, filled them too.
1st(marine clean) step removes any oils, also add ball berrings/nuts to remove any loose bits, now using this stuff as a degreaser, powerfull stuff, dont get it on paint work.
Step 2 rust killer, the insite turns silver/blue colour.
Step 3 is silver coating.
Instructions were on the can. Don't cut any corners(let it cure) if you want it to last, this is perminent. :apumpin:

Gixxer 4 ever
6th November 2005, 18:00
I'm buying a GPX250 (ninja) and heard they can be prone to rusty tanks,
Yep my son just got a 250. The tank was stuffed. We found a second hand one from a bike dismantler. Very lucky find. It has rust as well. The POR 15 would help. The tank that was on the bike had it in but it was so bad it was still leaking. Good luck :2thumbsup

crash harry
6th November 2005, 20:49
If you're gonna use POR15 I use gloves when you're handling it. Those disposable latex gloves are the go. Otherwise you can't get the shit off your hands once it dries. You either have to cut or sand it off (painful) or just wait a week or two for it to wear away...

rudolph
6th November 2005, 21:00
if the rust isn't bad use phosproc acid then rince and dry and use PA-10 primer,

forget everything elce or you will FUCK THE TANK

gamgee
6th November 2005, 21:26
yeah i've read quite a bit into this now the por15 kit sounds like the way to go, hydrochloric strips to much away and it just rusts quickly