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Test Pilot
17th November 2005, 22:34
Can anyone give sum much needed info on how to set up the suspension on a 2001/02 CBR600 fully adjustable etc... best oil level and adjustment settings for road use and track use.

Jonty
18th November 2005, 07:45
I would be interested to get this info and I know of at least one other:yes:

Sensei
18th November 2005, 07:50
01/02 setting's CBR6000

Front = Preoad - 3 line's showing
Rebound - 1.25 turn's out
Compression - 1.25 turn's out

Back = Preload - postion 6
Rebound - 1.25 turn's out
Copression - 1.5 turn's out

Oil is up to you really , what ya want to pay ? . Ohlin's oil is the best has been tested to not change hot or cold but you pay good money for it but it's the best !

Sensei
18th November 2005, 07:53
03 CBR 6000

Front - 3 line's
Rebound 1 turn out
Compression - 1.5 turn's out

Rear - postion 4 of 8
Rebound .5 turn's out
Compression 6 click's out

Sparky Bills
18th November 2005, 07:53
I suggest you pay a visit to your local bike shop, and hit the michanic up for a little help.

There is soo much to setting up shocks its not funny.
They will know exactly what to do.

Test Pilot
18th November 2005, 07:56
Front = Preoad - 3 line's showing
Rebound - 1.25 turn's out
Compression - 1.25 turn's out

Back = Preload - postion 6
Rebound - 1.25 turn's out
Copression - 1.5 turn's out

Oil is up to you really , what ya want to pay ? . Ohlin's oil is the best has been tested to not change hot or cold but you pay good money for it but it's the best !

What about the oil level, how far from the top, the repair manual recommends 116mm but this is to soft, and when i went up to 118mm it was to hard, so i guess my ? was more along the lines of what each adjuster does and why or when it needs adjusting and what effect it will have

Brian d marge
18th November 2005, 14:30
I suggest you pay a visit to your local bike shop, and hit the michanic up for a little help.

There is soo much to setting up shocks its not funny.
They will know exactly what to do.
Thats true ..Infact to get a half decent handling bike you can go back to Stock settings ie what the manual says !!!!

The only thing is you will need determine if the spring ( front or rear ) is suitable for your weight if its not , you will be completly wasteing your time.
You can find out if your spring is to soft by measuring the Sag ..

1st remove all preloads ( if internal ie a spacer in the front forks leave alone)
2nd with a helper lift bike up so that the component is topped out lets say front forks take this measurement ...lets say 500mm
3 , Put rider on board let suspension sink from topped out to where it settles - take this measurement lets say 400 mm
Here you may want to take stiction into account especially for front forks ,,you do this by ,,,
4. Lifting the front end with rider aboard and letting it settle DONT bounce ,,,Take this measurement lets say 450 mm
then you subtract from the first measurement the average of the second and third measurement 425mm so 500 - 425 is 75mm this is your sag

Now sag will be around 25 to 30 percent of the total travel different for different applications ,,

So you add preload ,,,,,, 20 cent washers ...pvc pipe chewing gum ,,,what ever ,,,,

Now if your preload is ( this is for the front )

0- 9mm the spring is to stiff
13mm to 25 mm Spring is just right ,,( you may find a 15 mm spacer in the front of Jap forks ,,,)
Over 30 mm the spring is to soft

For the rear
0 to 3mm to stiff
6 to 10 mm correct
25mm and over the spring is to soft


The grey area is your call ..but as you can see you are adding preload to get the right sag ..and what energy you add to the spring will come back to haunt you later when the suspension is unloading ( you will run thicker oil to slow down the rebound !!!)

Now with the correct spring rate installed ...you can set about adding oil the thicker the oil the quicker it breaks down ,,, you want to run the thinnest oil that you find comfortable with ...
HERE you can refer to what others have found best suits them you wont notice much of a difference going up or down a few viscosity grades ,,( I use ATF )
the oil Height concerns you over those big holes and at the last few mm of the fork travel ,,I set my MX bike to top out just before the wheel hits the exhaust ,,,
Also too thick an oil slows down the forks rate amd over ripples the bike will Pack ..ie not handle the ripples and you will drift wide or stand the bike up to slow down ,,,to allow the suspension to keep pace with the rate at which the bumps are approaching ,,,,
The reason WHY you do all this is to control the way /rate at which the weight is transfered AND as a bonus keep your kidneys from being shaken and not stirred ,,

EXample ... coming out of a corner with the gas on ...with a to soft a spring rate ,,the weight transfers to the back unloads the front and you tend to run wide ,,,,ie the front tends to drift to the outside of the turn the reverse is also true ......

Sorry this a a rough and brutal guide to suspension ,,,I should type it out all nice ,,,and neat ,,,but if you pop over to race tech web site they can explain better than I ....

To recap

The spring handles the LOAD
The Damping Controls the speed at which the LOAD MOVES

Use sag to find out if you spring rate is correct
Once spring rate is correct Use the thinnest oil that you feel comfortable with ( Remember Japanese stock shim stacks inside their supension are BASIC ,,,ie are either on or off ..so a lighter oil wont make em move untill those really big holes ...Up to that point you will be using the rebound and compression adjusters and they are just a hole ie not very progressive ( insert the word Sh!T )
Thicker oil makes the shim stack work earlier ,,,but slows down the forks over the smaller bumps ( makes the tyre wall work)

Oh and then you go and take a pilion for a ride ,,,:doh: Hows that preload setting !!!!

Spend some time setting up your suspension ,,it really makes a BIG difference

Stephen

Sensei
18th November 2005, 15:00
What about the oil level, how far from the top, the repair manual recommends 116mm but this is to soft, and when i went up to 118mm it was to hard, so i guess my ? was more along the lines of what each adjuster does and why or when it needs adjusting and what effect it will have

Will here's what I think ! You could try a heavyer oil weight say 10 weight you may have 7 or even 5 in at the moment & put in the standard 116mm & see how you go .
As far as the Adjuster's go

Preload -- is have much tension is placed onto the spring . This alter's rider height as well .

Rebound -- this determine's how fast or slow the bike suspenion return's after hitting bump's in the road .

Compression-- this determine's how hard or soft the front feel's when you ride along .

If you feel trying out adjusting your bike is too much for you then give Shaun Harris a PM from off here . He raced these for year's & has help me with fine tuning my GSXR1000 . It is very basic to do . Adjust one thing at a time so as not to confuse what has worked & what hasn't , make a note in a book & then you'll have something to go back to later . Hope this help's ya out .

Test Pilot
18th November 2005, 22:40
will give it a try, cheers for the advice