New Rear tyres... some ideas?

[ManDownUnder]

Point #1
I'm going to be looking for a new rear tyre soon - those in charge have decided a 1.5mm tread depth is the minimum allowable. Who am I to argue with that? Obviously the first part to wear thin is the very middle of the tyre where the tread drops below the 1.5mm while the rest of the tyre remains untouched (yes - I know I should do more track time and even them out - but I don't)

Point #2
I recall reading an article a while back talking about how the read tyre tread pattern was (or could be) notably different from the front, because (among other things) it had the advantage of riding in the dry a lot o the time. The theory being the front tyre moves all the water and creates a line of dry road the rear tyre then rides on.

Long story short it means it's acceptable for the rear tyre to have no tread in the middle, just up the walls (the rear tyre moves out of the dry track when banking).

Conclusion?
So here's my question. I I could buy a good rear tyre with no tread cut across the centre of it then in theory it should be acceptable to our good friends at the LTSA for a lot longer because it was ALWAYS below the 1.5mm in the centre?

Can you guys let me know your thoughts on this, and alos any makes/models of tyre that fit the bill? I'm looking for long lasting compounds not race compounds etc...

Cheers
MDU

[White trash]

Point #2. Bullshit.

Who ever came up with that crap needs shooting! Try feeding the power on on your RF on a wet road with a bald rear tire. Wheelspin city my friend.

Tread also does more than move water. It allows the tyre to "flex" and heat up quickly. I replace my tyres well before they get to the 1.5mm stage. And I allways replace them in pairs.

[ManDownUnder]

Point #2. Bullshit.

Who ever came up with that crap needs shooting! Try feeding the power on on your RF on a wet road with a bald rear tire. Wheelspin city my friend.

Tread also does more than move water. It allows the tyre to "flex" and heat up quickly. I replace my tyres well before they get to the 1.5mm stage. And I allways replace them in pairs.

I have to admit I was curious about it, but not being a tyre design expert - I took it on board - and it's one of the reasons I raise it here... gimme the lowdown guys...

The source was Two Wheels Mag, last year sometime

[jrandom]

I replace my tyres well before they get to the 1.5mm stage. And I allways replace them in pairs.

Wot 'e said.

Most bike tyres are gonna be well shagged and squared off before the tread gets down that far.

Dunno if you'll find any slick-in-the-middle road tyres, either, sounds like rubbish to me but then what would I know eh?

Why don't you want tread on the back, anyway? Like WT said, tread helps them to squiggle around and warm up quicker on the road. That's why you don't run racing wets on the track when it's not actually, you know, *wet*. They melt.

[Motu]

The actual requirement is 1.5mm over the whole circumference and across 3/4 of the width.This has always bugged me,cars and bikes - but with a bike tyre it can be bald in the middle but still be leagal,kinda crazy,but thems the rules.If you don't want to change your tyre,get a tape measure and measure it out - if you have tread over 1.5 for more than 3/4 of the width you are leagal,make an argument.

[White trash]

I have to admit I was curious about it, but not being a tyre design expert - I took it on board - and it's one of the reasons I raise it here... gimme the lowdown guys...

The source was Two Wheels Mag, last year sometime

I think they're badly mistaken. I use DOT approved race tyres (Pirrelis) and they have a bit of tread across the center 3rd of the tyre and none of the edges. This suits me fine as who rides that fast in the wet anyway?

Even with my small amount of tread and rellative low torque output, my 600 still lights up like a Christmas tree in 4th when it gets wet.

As a suggestion, Bridgestone 020 Battlaxes have worked briliantly on RF's I've ridden.

[riffer]

I know most of the guys on the site rubbish the Dunlop tyres and I've really not got a lot of experience to go on, but when I got my bike I had the following uses in mind (in order of most use).

1. Daily ride to and from home to work (70kms - Upper Hutt to Wellington)
2. Quick rides over windy roads in the weekends (ie Rimutakas)
3. The occasional long ride (to Auckland and back, etc)

The bike shop recommended Dunlop Sportmax 205 Touring's to me as they had a sporty performance characteristic with the added advantage of being able to withstand the constant daily grind on the motorway without getting shagged in the middle. Not only that but they grip well enough for me in the wet.

I've done about 6,000 km's on these tyres since labour weekend and they're holding up well. With the daily riding they end up quite smooth in the middle but a quick blast up the takas once a week will see them get quite rough again.

I'm not claiming to be the fastest or best rider here (not by a long shot!) but I'm finding these tyres to be a good compromise for me and I can keep up with quite a few guys over the 'takas.

I don't know what they are like as they start to wear further - I will post more about them as this happens but I would imagine I will get at least 10,000 kms out of these tyres on the back.

I would imagine your RF900 is about the same weight as my FZR750 (205 kg) and probably has a bit more power (I'm about 95hp), so they might be the go for your riding...

[ManDownUnder]

As a suggestion, Bridgestone 020 Battlaxes have worked briliantly on RF's I've ridden.

Cheers!
MDU

[White trash]

And if you can't get one for less than $300 letme know, I'll get one couriered over night.

Dunlop Sportmax are a good bet too and about $15 cheaper.

[Hitcher]

Point #1
I'm going to be looking for a new rear tyre soon - those in charge have decided a 1.5mm tread depth is the minimum allowable. Who am I to argue with that? Obviously the first part to wear thin is the very middle of the tyre where the tread drops below the 1.5mm while the rest of the tyre remains untouched (yes - I know I should do more track time and even them out - but I don't)

Point #2
I recall reading an article a while back talking about how the read tyre tread pattern was (or could be) notably different from the front, because (among other things) it had the advantage of riding in the dry a lot o the time. The theory being the front tyre moves all the water and creates a line of dry road the rear tyre then rides on.

Long story short it means it's acceptable for the rear tyre to have no tread in the middle, just up the walls (the rear tyre moves out of the dry track when banking).

Conclusion?
So here's my question. I I could buy a good rear tyre with no tread cut across the centre of it then in theory it should be acceptable to our good friends at the LTSA for a lot longer because it was ALWAYS below the 1.5mm in the centre?

Can you guys let me know your thoughts on this, and alos any makes/models of tyre that fit the bill? I'm looking for long lasting compounds not race compounds etc...

Cheers
MDU

I read this and had to have a colleague administer CPR. I have read some crap theories about tyres before but never so much at once. Tyres are a reasonably "mission critical" part of a successful motorcycling experience. If you want to kill yourself, by all means go tooling round on homemade, hard, bald tyres of differing compounds front and rear...

[Dave]

Don't be tight :moon:

[Coldkiwi]

Motu raises an interesting point but I think you'll find that if you can buy it from a bike store, it'll be legal. The stores aren't going to sell non-legal road tyres or they'd be getting slapped around by guys who just failed their wof.

in terms of rear tread, my understanding of it is that it typically deals with LESS water than the front and can use a different pattern to make the most of this advanatge in terms of heat disspertion and wear. the Diablos are a great example of this with the front heavily grooved down the centre and the rear having a small strip of no tread with more grooves off centre.
I'm using them everyday and i've been trying to break the rear loose a few times to test the grip in the rain. My impressions have been that the Diablo corsas crap ALL over the D207's I had fitted as standard not just in the dry but also the wet (and the 207's have stack loads more tread down the centre of the rear). Yes I know they are a higher grade of rubber but I really have to work the throttle to get it spinning now compared to actively trying to stop the back letting go before.

hope that helps a little
(P.s. I'm a totally biased Pirelli fan.. they kick butt... I recommend diablos if only because I've hardly ever heard road users complain about them)

[ManDownUnder]

cheers guys - all good info!

I'm amased at the rate the RF gets through tires though - my last bike was a 550 and they lasted a site longer... aaaa the price of horsepower (not to mention the FUN of horsepower)

I'll have a ring around and see what kind of prices I can get on the rubber too....

[ManDownUnder]

Guys...

Check out the pricing I found online at http://www.starcycle.com/street.html...!

Given that the current US exchange rate is $0.68 or so, multiply by about 1.5 and you've got the price...

A sample of what'son that page (under Pirelli for example). No I haven't done a LOT of searching for prices, but this isn't bad huh?

To be fair freight needs to be added... but surface shipping wouldn't cost that much and I'm getting that info from them as soon as they reply to my email - I'll let you how how it comes out.

PIRELLI DIABLO CORSA PART#
SIZE
OUR
PRICE

1449400 120/70-17 FRONT $126.95

1449500 180/55-17 REAR $137.95
1449600 190/50-17 REAR $176.95
PIRELLI DIABLO PART#
SIZE
OUR
PRICE

1429600 130/70-16 FRONT $109.95
1430600 110/70-17 FRONT $109.95
1430200 120/60-17 FRONT $109.95
1430700 120/70-17 FRONT $109.95

1430300 150/60-17 REAR $115.95
1430400 160/60-17 REAR $117.95
1430000 180/55-17 REAR $126.95
1429700 190/50-17 REAR $129.95
1429900 200/50-17 REAR $163.95

[riffer]

Guys...

Check out the pricing I found online at http://www.starcycle.com/street.html...!
No 160/60-18 rears then :weep:

[ManDownUnder]

No 160/60-18 rears then :weep:

Not in Pirelli... but a quick look in Bridgestone 020s...
160/60-18 $109

That's about NZ$160 + freight... not bad!

[Lou Girardin]

cheers guys - all good info!

I'm amased at the rate the RF gets through tires though - my last bike was a 550 and they lasted a site longer... aaaa the price of horsepower (not to mention the FUN of horsepower)

I'll have a ring around and see what kind of prices I can get on the rubber too....

I'm using Avon AV45/46 on my RF and they're just fine, 10,000 to 11,000 from a rear. More grip than I can use. If you want a sportier tyre try Diablos, there's some good deals going at present. Try Leading Edge and Cycletreads.
Lou

P S. Don't forget to add fitting and balancing. It tends to knock the cost up a bit.

[ManDownUnder]

I'm using Avon AV45/46 on my RF and they're just fine, 10,000 to 11,000 from a rear. More grip than I can use. If you want a sportier tyre try Diablos, there's some good deals going at present. Try Leading Edge and Cycletreads.
Lou

P S. Don't forget to add fitting and balancing. It tends to knock the cost up a bit.

Good man - cheers
MDU

[jrandom]

... and Cycletreads.

er... as a nice open spot to park the bike up and admire the new tyres after having them fitted at Leading Edge?

Think you might be forgetting something there Lou :D

[SPman]

.. If you want to kill yourself, by all means go tooling round on homemade, hard, bald tyres of differing compounds front and rear...
Well, KK's still hare!:doobey:

[jrandom]

KK's still hare!

Shouldn't that be 'hair', as in March?

[jrandom]

If you want to kill yourself, by all means go tooling round on homemade, hard, bald tyres of differing compounds front and rear...

Here here.

[ManDownUnder]

Here here.

... there goes the neighbourhood... :devil2:

[jrandom]

... there goes the neighbourhood... :devil2:

Things getting a bit too heary for you?

[wkid_one]

I'd never replace tyres singularly if you paid me too - unless replacing with same tyre.

Can't go past the M1's for price and grip.

Diablos okay.

Would go Rennsports everytime a donut!

[Lou Girardin]

er... as a nice open spot to park the bike up and admire the new tyres after having them fitted at Leading Edge?

Think you might be forgetting something there Lou :D

Aren't they operating out of temp premises? Still, ther's always Hamilton.
Lou

[jrandom]

Aren't they operating out of temp premises?

Thought about that after posting...

Not sure where, though.

[ManDownUnder]

I'd never replace tyres singularly if you paid me too - unless replacing with same tyre.

Can't go past the M1's for price and grip.

Diablos okay.

Would go Rennsports everytime a donut!

Dude - from that avatar it looks like you have a thing for pairs...

[Jackrat]

That bit about the rear haveing no tread in the center being Ok is a bit of a worry.I noticed yonks ago that the rear tyre does not always follow in the same track as the front other than in a dead straight line,even a small amount of weave will put them in different places.Sounds like a bit of Oz'y logic that one.But then their conditions are a lot different to ours as well.
As to the best tyre,well I used to have an issue with both Dunlop and Avon but they both seem to have got heaps better in resent times.
I think as long as you go with any of the better known brands they are all pretty good.My own personal fave's are Michelin and Pirelli,Just don't buy any of them shing ding types.Of course some bikes like a certain type of tyre so it pays to talk with folks that ride your bike and find out what they like.
Cheers.

[ManDownUnder]

I think as long as you go with any of the better known brands they are all pretty good.My own personal fave's are Michelin and Pirelli,Just don't buy any of them shing ding types.Of course some bikes like a certain type of tyre so it pays to talk with folks that ride your bike and find out what they like.
Cheers.

Cheers Jack.

I used to run a Continental Contitour on my last bike (admittedly a 550, not a 900) and it didn't wear out. I can't find anything by Continental any more and after searching high and low am settling for a Metzler MEZ4 or MEZ6 (the new one - supposedly amasing... but then they would say that) or the Avon AV46

My warrant comes up 19 March and it'll be touch and go to getting through (according to a guy from a WOF station I checked with yesterday) but if I make it through this one I'll be shopping in the US when I go up next time for what I want. Tires are so much cheaper up there! (NZ$339 vs NZ$549 for a pair of Avons - same tires compared!)

MDU

[merv]

I can't find anything by Continental any more and after searching high and low am settling for a Metzler MEZ4 or MEZ6 (the new one - supposedly amasing... but then they would say that) or the Avon AV46 MDU

You may not have seen my posts on tyres some time ago, but my experience with the VFR were that MEZ4 were crap after I had been using the MEZ2 previously (which were an excellent tyre). The 4s have a harder carcass and a softer rubber than the 2s were so they feel awful i.e. hard and skittery on corners (so you think oh well at least they will last - wrong!!!) and then they didn't last - did 2/3 the kms of the old 2s that they replaced. Here's hoping the 6s are better. I was driven to changing to Michelins because I'm a tight arse and didn't like them wearing out so quick. On my VFR that was 8,000kms on the 4s compared to 13,000kms on the 2s riding the same.

[ManDownUnder]

You may not have seen my posts on tyres some time ago, but my experience with the VFR were that MEZ4 were crap after I had been using the MEZ2 previously (which were an excellent tyre). The 4s have a harder carcass and a softer rubber than the 2s were so they feel awful i.e. hard and skittery on corners (so you think oh well at least they will last - wrong!!!) and then they didn't last - did 2/3 the kms of the old 2s that they replaced. Here's hoping the 6s are better. I was driven to changing to Michelins because I'm a tight arse and didn't like them wearing out so quick. On my VFR that was 8,000kms on the 4s compared to 13,000kms on the 2s riding the same.

Cheers man.

It's funny - the more feedback I get about the Metzlers, the less I am inclined to get them (I used to run an ME33 Lazer on the front of another bike I had - awesome tire!)

Anyhoo - looks like either the Bridgestone 020 or the Avon AV46 for me this time around. Maybe I'll pick up a fron tire in the states at some time and see how much hassle it is to bring it home with me.

(I'm going to have some fun and bring an air rifle back with me as it is... guess THAT won't be going as cabin baggae huh?) :Oops:

Cheers
MDU

[Holy Roller]

I used to have Pirelli on both wheels but this time round the cost stopped me from putting the same back on, after talking with Tony Reese in Whakatane I got some dunlops put on and have not noticed any difference, the footpegs still scrape in corners I'll have to wait and see if they last as well as the pirelli's

[Holy Roller]

How about 360 wide?
But you can only get the from the USA at the moment.