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View Full Version : The Art of Farkling (or is that "The Fart of Arkling"?)



vifferman
18th November 2005, 15:03
Do Not FIDDLE!
I've found some fiddlin' I can do that doesn't seem to invoke my beloved mate's ire, nor violate the "And don't you dare fiddle with this one!" rule.:blink:

I have a friend who has a 1998 VFR800. Not long after he bought it (due in part to my encouragement), he managed to score a brand-new Power Commander in a K&N clearance sale, for the non-princely sum of $US35, shipped. As you can imagine (if you can do elementary maths) this is quite a saving over the normal $US300 price.:blank:
So for the past year or more, this PC has sat in its box, untouched, untested, unloved, until I came along and asked if I could borrow it. For a bit. Of pseudo-fiddling, I guess.
He said "Sure! No worries! Yes, you can! Why not!"
Righty-ho then! Let's do it.:2thumbsup

Blatant Fiddling
The first thing I did was some vandalism: unplugging the oxygen sensors from the wiring loom.
The second task was some tomfoolery, to wit: fooling the ECU into thinking the oxygen sensors were still connected, by plugging some 330ohm resistors into the O2 sensor plugs. This stops the ECU indicating an error, but because it realises the bogus sensors are talking nonsense, it won't run the EFI in closed-loop mode.
I rode the bike like this for a bit, and it was a big improvement, as the transition between closed-loop and open-loop mode can be "a bit problematic", and closed-loop mode is ultra-lean, complete with lean surges, pinking when hot, and all that. The bike now felt like a carburetted bike.

Commanding Up The Power
Next task was to fit the Power Commander - a veritable piece of piss, despite my bike having a hissy fit and biting a piece out of my finger. Owie!
(I was going to put some photos in, and maybe I'll do it later, but it's so simple, there's not much to illustrate).
1. Unclip cover over ECU, under seat, in tail of bike.
2. Pull ECU out, and unplug grey plug.
3. Plug PC into ECU, and grey plug into PC.
4. Put ECU back, and replace cover.
5. Stick PC on undertray using velcro.

Software
The Power Commander doesn't actually do anything to the ECU - it just intercepts the signals passed from the ECU to the injectors, and modifies the pulse time, according to three tables, and the ignition timing using a fourth table. The tables may be edited via Windows-based software, then loaded onto the PC unit via a USB connection or serial cable. Each set of four tables is a map.
The tables are like spreadsheets, and have columns representing throttle position, and rows representing engine revs. Each cell may have a range of values, depending on what the table represents, and the model of bike.
Power Commander provide a range of maps as starting points, and others are available from the Interdweeb. The maps are tiny (3kb or so), and have space for explanatory notes to be added).

In addition, there are three buttons on the PC which can be used to lean or richen the fuel mixture over three ranges each of which encompasses one-third of the rev range of the bike (Low, Mid, High). Each tap of the button enriches the mixture, and each (longer) press leans it, by 4% (in the case of the PCII I was using) or 2% (PCIII). Any changes made this way are in addition to whatever the map is doing.

So, How's It Go, Mistah?
It's a mixed bag. You'd think that there would be little difference between various models of aftermarket zorsts, and years of bike. And you'd also expect (I did!) that if I chose a map that sounded closest to my bike's setup, it would be right, right? Wrong! (that's worngA, eh Ixion?)
I started off with one labelled, "VFR800, stock, standard airfilter, Staintune exhaust". It was crap! It had some hole thing going on (henceforth known as "the herkyjerky"), and some lean bits here and there.
So I tried a Urpeen setup: crapper.
So I disconnected the PC.

Then I tried again, with some advice from another fiddler, and loaded a stock, standard, vanilla map. Not the 'zero' map (all zeros, funnily enough), which does nothing, but one for a stock standard bike. It was OK.
Then I added some button presses - +8% low-range, and +4% mid-range. Now we're talking.

Adventures in PC Land
Then I got more adventurous, and tried a map The Fellow Fiddler From Florida sent me over the Interdweeb - his bike was the same year, same setup (apart from the pipe), and he swore it turned his bike into a fire-breathing monster. It was semi-crap, partly because he'd done some weird things with the ignition timing, based on some other map PowerCommander had on their site, and it meant the bike went absolutely mental unless I was very careful with the throttle and clutch taking off, and held my tongue in just the right position.
So, I edited that, read the manuals again, fixed up the igntion timing somewhat (advanced only at big fistfuls of throttle), added some richness at low throttle openings, and disconnected the flapper valve. Just because I could - it doesn't do much except make the bike noisier.
It's...it's ... it's OK.
The lean surge has gone, and there's some real oomph here and there, but there's some bits that feel a bit 'doughy'. So there's more fiddling to do, which would be OK if I had a Palm Pilot, or the old laptop I'm using didn't take fifteen bazillion years to do anything. It takes longer to fire up the laptop than it does to edit the map or load it onto the Power Commander.

Now What?
Whelp, I have to give the PC back before New Year.:doh:
But, I knew that. So what I'm going to do next is fiddle with the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), as there's an easy mod that costs nothing (nada) that can boost fuel pressure by 10% and make things sweeter, which is what the aim of all this is. Well, that and the fiddling.:blip:

Artifice
18th November 2005, 15:37
So you'll be looking for another unit soon then.

im sure buggy or sniper will be along soon to talk about your bottom if you want.

so does it make your bike go like a suzuki?

erik
18th November 2005, 23:15
Interesting post. :)

thealmightytaco
19th November 2005, 01:57
Heavy. Too heavy for 3am.

vifferman
21st November 2005, 10:22
I know I've said before that fitting a cooling fan to the R/R is a waste of time, but I've temporarily run out of farkling to do (till I do the FPR mod), and I've a stack of PC fans sitting around, so yesterday I pulled the tail cowling off and fitted (eventually) a fan.
Mostly.
I've still got to connect it to the power permanently (did a test run yesterday, of course) but I need an in-line fuse first.

Firstly, I took the seat and pack-rack off, then undid the rear cowl. This is a matter of three allen-headed bolts/screws each side, then after the cowl's been partially pulled back, unplugging the four rear bulb holders.

Next, I tied the 3.5" fan on with elastic, so I could move it around, then loosely refitted the cowling. Despite the apparent lack of space under the cowling, it fit! With some room to spare (handy, when you're moving air around).:2thumbsup

Now - how to attach.... hmmmm....
After much thinking, I decided to use the top two mounting holes, and drill through the heatsink, and use long screws. I was sure I had some long, thin, s/steel ones somewhere in my junk... ah yes! There they are.

Before I fitted it, I soldered a new power wire on, as the one on the fan was a mere 40mm or so long, and covered the joins with heatshrink. I made the power wire really long, as I hadn't yet decided where to connect it. I spotted a handy plu adjacent to the fan, but when I tested it, it proved to be only 5V. (It's actually part of the ECU test loom).

On to fitting the fan - should be straightforward. However (BUT!) the top of the heatsink proved to not be flat, with the outermost fins being slightly shorter. So, when I tightened the screws, the fan tilted away from the heatsink. :doh:

Eventually, after much faffing around, I tied the bottom of the fan to the frame with cable ties, and adjusted screws and cable ties till everything was flat. Cable-tied the power wire to the wiring loom, right down to the tail of the bike, so I can splice it into the tail-light after I buy an in-line fuse-holder today.

While putting the tail cowling back on (and off, and on, and off, and on) I took the opportunity to tuck the Satantune in slightly closer to the bike, which made its mounting bracket fit a bit better under the right-hand grab handle mount. It was still a bit of a bugger to get on, but easier than when Kerry first fit the L-brackets for the packrack.

Zapf
21st November 2005, 19:07
they need a portable hand held controller / editor for the PC :)

had one in my bo racer car years ago

vifferman
22nd November 2005, 08:07
they need a portable hand held controller / editor for the PC
Yeah, it would be good. However (BUT!) you can use a Palm Pilot, and the buttons on the unit give you some coarse control. I've found that using the laptop is a pain, coz it takes forever to boot up and load Power Commander.
For that reason, I'd like to see a non-Windoze version.

Update: I've finally found a map that's not too bad, after trying 8 or so (a t a guess) and fiddling with those. The current one's not perfect, but it sure does have some reall oomph, courtesy of ignition advance at the top end, and some tweaking of fuel addition here and there. It's pretty hard though, and would be much easier with a Wideband Commander (TM) (http://www.widebandcommander.com/) which allows gathering data to enable a good map to be constructed. A dyno run would be another option, but given that I have to return the PCII in a few weeks, it's kinda irrelevant.

Meanwhile, I've investigated further the FPR adjustment, and I have found the tools to do it, and have discovered I don't need to dismantle anything - just lift the front of the tank (two small bolts). I've also discovered there's two ways to do it: adjust the spring seat of the valve, or put an adjustable doofer (technical term) on the vaccuum line, for adjustable fuel pressure (and a reversible fiddling).

Zapf
22nd November 2005, 10:45
Yeah, it would be good. However (BUT!) you can use a Palm Pilot, and the buttons on the unit give you some coarse control. I've found that using the laptop is a pain, coz it takes forever to boot up and load Power Commander.
For that reason, I'd like to see a non-Windoze version.

Update: I've finally found a map that's not too bad, after trying 8 or so (a t a guess) and fiddling with those. The current one's not perfect, but it sure does have some reall oomph, courtesy of ignition advance at the top end, and some tweaking of fuel addition here and there. It's pretty hard though, and would be much easier with a Wideband Commander (TM) (http://www.widebandcommander.com/) which allows gathering data to enable a good map to be constructed. A dyno run would be another option, but given that I have to return the PCII in a few weeks, it's kinda irrelevant.


yea... AF ratio meter and Exhaust temp gauge is good tuning tool... and a knock sensor read out would be good too... Ign advance is good for power... at the risk of detonation... NZ fuel is too crap for that... unless u use BP/Mobil 98 which is better.

game enought to mount a tablet PC on your tank? :D

vifferman
22nd November 2005, 11:00
yea... AF ratio meter and Exhaust temp gauge is good tuning tool... and a knock sensor read out would be good too... Ign advance is good for power... at the risk of detonation... NZ fuel is too crap for that... unless u use BP/Mobil 98 which is better.
The VFR has airflow, manifold pressure, inlet air temp, exhaust O2, and a whole bunch of other sensors, like barometric pressure, but no knock sensor.


game enought to mount a tablet PC on your tank? :D
Yeah, why not? Just stick it in/on the tank bag.
However, it's all kinda moot, as the PC is going back in a few weeks, and TheAccountant is most unlikely to approve the purchase of a replacement. It'd be OK if I could get one for the same price as the borrowed one - $US35, delivered!